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TRAVELS 


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NORTH  INDIA: 


CONTAINING 


NOTICES  OF  THE  HINDUS;  JOURNALS  OF  A VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES 
AND  A TOUR  TO  LAHOR  J NOTES  ON  THE  HIMALAYA 
MOUNTAINS  AND  THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


INCLUDING  A SKETCH  OF 

MISSIONARY  UNDERTAKINGS. 


Rev.  JOHN  C.  LOWRIE, 

Assistant  Secretary  Board  Foreign  Missions  Presbyterian  Church. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

PRESBYTERIAN  BOARD  OF  PUBLICATION. 

PAUL  T.  JONES,  PUBLISHING  AGENT. 

18  4 8. 


Printed  by 

WILLIAM  9.MARTIEN- 


CONTENTS 


Page 

Preface,  5 

CHAPTER  I.— Voyage  to  Calcutta. — Parting  with  Friends 
— The  Voyage  a Sabbath — Madeira;  Romanist  Religion — 
Winds  and  Weather;  Storm  off  the  Cape — Sand  Heads;  Sa- 
gor;  Natives — Scenery  on  the  Hoogley — Reach  Calcutta,  9 

CHAPTER  II. — India  and  the  Hindus. — Extent  of  the  Coun- 
try— Soil  and  Productions — Population — Appearance  of  the 
People — Houses — Civilization — Caste,  ...  19 

CHAPTER  III. — The  Hindus,  continued. — Poverty  of  the 
People — Literature — Religion, 28 

CHAPTER  IV.— Choice  of  a Missionary  Field. — North- 
Western  Provinces — Educational  Movement — Authorities 
friendly — Arrival  timely — Missionary  co-operation,  40 

CHAPTER  V. — Events  at  Calcutta. — Death  of  Mrs.  Lovv- 
rie — Remain  at  Calcutta  till  the  Rainy  Season — Study  of  the 
Language — Missionary  Policy — Mr.  Reed’s  Illness  and  Re- 
turn,   49 

CHAPTER  VI.— Voyage  on  the  Ganges. — Native  Boats — 
Serampore — Dangers  of  “Tracking” — Numerous  Towns — 
Boat  wrecked — Berhampore — Moorshedabad,  . 61 

CHAPTER  VII. — Voyage  on  the  Ganges,  continued. — The 
Great  Ganges — Rajmahal  Hills — Mussulmans  and  Hindus 
compared — Anecdote  of  Caste — Danger  from  a gale — Bha- 

■ galpur — Spirit  of  Lying — Native  Boatmen — Monghir — Patna 
— Dinapore,  .......  79 

CHAPTER  VIII.— Voyage  on  the  Ganges;  Journey  to 
Lodiana. — Rivers  and  Towns — Attar  of  Roses — Danger 
from  Falling  Banks — Benares — Allahabad;  Example  of  Fatal 
Superstition — Review  of  the  River  Journey — Dak  Travelling 
— Agra — Delhi  —Arrive  at  Lodiana,  . . 97 

CHAPTER  IX. — At  Lodiana. — Lodiana — Sickness — English 
Preaching — Importance  of  Schools — English  School,  . 115 


4 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  X.— Tour  to  Lahor. — Information  desired — In- 
vitation from  Ranjit  Singh — Manner  of  Travelling — Appear- 
ance of  the  Country — Paghwarah — Dancing  Girls — Villages 
— Cities — Interview  with  a Native  Chief— River  Bias — 
Cashmerian  Emigrants — Sacred  Reservoir  at  Amritsir — Visit 
of  a Native  Chief, 126 

CHAPTER  XI. — Tour  to  Lahor;  Ranjit  Singh. — Reach 
Lahor — Visits  of  two  Fakir  Courtiers — Interview  with  the 
King — Conversations  with  the  Fakirs — Invitation  to  see 
Dancing  Girls  declined — Mussulman  Version  of  David's  Re- 
pentance— Appearance  of  Lahor — An  armed  Maulavi,  145 

CHAPTER  IXII. — Ranjit  Singh’s  Hunting  Excursion  ; 
Notes  on  the  Panjab  and  the  Sikhs. — Leave  Lahor  for 
the  Hunting  Ground — Hunting  Company — Manner  of  des- 
patching Business  at  Court — Dismission  granted — Notes  on 
the  Panjab  and  the  Sikhs, 161 

CHAPTER  XIII. — Lodiana  to  Simla  ; the  Hill  Tribes. — 
Arrival  of  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Wilson  and  Newton  at  Calcutta 
— Leave  Lodiana  for  Simla — English  Society — Notes  on  the 
Protected  Hill  Stales — Face  of  the  Country — Snowy  Moun- 
tains— Productions,  Animals,  Climate — Population,  Agricul- 
ture— Religion,  Language — Character  of  the  People — Valley 
of  Kanaur,  ........  177 

CHAPTER  XIV. — Lodiana  to  New  York. — Meeting  with 
Messrs.  Wilson  and  New'ton — English  School  at  Lodiana — 
Mission  Station  at  Sabathu — Other  places — Station  at  Lo- 
diana-— Leave  Lodiana — Meeting  at  Calcutta  with  the  Third 
Company  of  Missionaries — Reach  New  York,  . . 204 

CHAPTER  XV. — A Sketch  of  the  History  of  the  Mis- 
sions. — Lodiana — Sabathu — Saharunpur — A llahabad — Fut- 
tehgurh — Presbyteries  formed — Summary  View,  . 213 

CHAPTER  XVI.— General  Considerations.— The  North- 
Western  Provinces  not  occupied  with  Missionary  Institutions 
— Urgent  Wants  of  Adult  Heathens — Encouragement  of 
Christian  Efforts — India  open  for  Missionary  Labour — An  In- 
terior Movement  now  in  progress — The  Hindus  in  a Transi- 
tion State;  Shall  they  become  Infidels  or  Christians? — 
Religious  Movements  en  masse — The  kind  of  Men  needed  as 
Missionaries,  225 

APPENDICES. 

Appendix  I. — On  the  Condition  of  the  Heathen,  . 237 

Appendix  II. — On  the  Relation  of  American  Missionaries  to 
Europeans  in  India,  244 

Appendix  III. — The  Success  of  the  Missionary  Enterprise,  247 


PREFACE. 


India,  the  land  of  the  Hindus,  is  far  too 
little  known  in  this  country.  It  is  a distant 
part  of  the  earth,  and  the  claims  of  business 
lead  but  few  of  our  citizens  to  its  shores. 
The  tour  of  pleasure,  and  even  the  route  of 
the  curious  traveller,  do  not  often  extend  to 
the  regions  of  the  far  east.  Its  singular  peo- 
ple are  known  to  us  chiefly  by  an  ill-defined 
and  almost  romantic  report.  And  yet  it  has 
many  and  strong  claims  on  our  attention. 
Its  rivers  are  as  mighty  as  our  own,  its  broad 
plains,  watered  by  the  Ganges  and  its  tribu- 
taries, are  not  less  fertile  and  only  less  exten- 
sive than  the  great  valley  of  the  west,  and  its 
mountains  are  the  noblest  on  the  earth.  Its 
inhabitants  are  a distinct  family  of  the  human 
race,  having  a civilization,  a literature,  and 
unhappily  a religion  of  their  own;  and  a 


6 


PREFACE. 


history  whose  earliest  memorials  are  veiled 
in  obscurity,  and  whose  after  records  bring 
to  our  view  such  phases  of  human  society  as 
cannot  elsewhere  be  seen,  while  its  course 
in  our  own  times  is  worthy  of  the  deepest 
study  both  of  the  statesman  and  the  Chris- 
tian. 

The  writer  of  the  following  pages  has  not 
attempted  to  give  a complete  account  of 
Hindu  institutions,  social,  civil,  or  religious; 
nor  of  their  manners,  usages  or  employments. 
Nor  has  he  at  all  undertaken  the  history  of 
this  ancient  people.  Let  those  who  would 
read  the  latter,  or  understand  the  former,  con- 
sult the  works  of  Sir  W.  Jones,  Colebrooke, 
Malcom,  and  particularly  Mill,  Ward,  and 
Elphinstone — not  to  mention  many  others. 
The  author’s  only  aim  in  his  “ Notices”  has 
been  to  present  such  views  of  the  Indians, 
as  shall  perhaps  bring  them  fairly  before  the 
reader’s  eye.  In  these  as  in  all  the  parts  of 
his  work,  he  is  sensible  of  many  imperfec- 
tions, to  be  attributed  chiefly  to  his  want  of 


PREFACE. 


i 


the  requisite  ability  to  do  justice  to  the  sub- 
jects under  review,  but  partly  also  to  the 
cares  of  his  station,  which  leave  but  little 
time  for  other  duties;  yet  he  ventures  to 
hope  that  the  outline  account  which  this 
book  contains  of  persons,  places  and  things 
in  India,  will  excite  a desire  to  become  better 
acquainted  with  the  Hindus,  and  lead  to  a 
deeper  concern  for  their  welfare. 

The  Journals,  &c.  have  already  appeared 
in  print,  but  are  not  now  accessible.  As  to  the 
contents  of  this  volume,  it  will  be  found  that 
they  are  mainly  of  a general  character,  and 
it  is  believed  that  what  is  necessarily  of 
more  limited  interest  has  yet  been  written 
in  a catholic  spirit.  The  account  of  the  mis- 
sionary undertakings  of  one  branch  of  the 
Church  of  Christ  is  commended  to  the  kind 
approval  of  the  members  of  her  communion. 
The  writer  shall  ever  consider  it  his  sacred 
privilege  to  have  spent  the  earliest  years  of 
his  ministry  in  her  foreign  service. 

He  feels  himself  much  favoured  in  having 


8 


PREFACE. 


his  humble  work  published  under  its  present 
auspices;  but  it  may  therefore  be  proper  to 
state,  which  he  does  cheerfully  and  at  his 
own  instance,  that  in  a review  of  so  many 
and  varied  subjects,  he  cannot  hope  for  a 
perfect  agreement  with  himself  in  all  the 
opinions  which  are  set  forth  in  this  book. 
For  whatever  of  error  may  have  unawares 
crept  into  its  pages,  the  author  alone  is  re- 
sponsible. J.  C.  L. 


New  York,  January , 1842. 


TRAVELS  IN  NORTH  INDIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 

Parting  with  friends — The  voyage  a Sabbath — Madeira  ; 
beautiful  sight;  Romanist  religion — Winds  and  weather; 
storm  off  the  Cape — Sand  Heads;  Sagor;  Natives — Sce- 
nery on  the  Hoogley — Reach  Calcutta. 

On  Wednesday,  the  29th  of  May,  1833,  we  left 
Philadelphia  to  join  the  ship  Star,  lying  in  the 
Delaware  near  New  Castle,  bound  to  Calcutta. 
Our  company  consisted  of  the  Rev.  William  Reed, 
myself,  and  our  wives.  A few  near  relatives  and 
friends  went  with  us  to  New  Castle,  to  see  us  em- 
bark. The  afternoon  was  dark  and  rainy;  but  if 
we  had  been  superstitiously  inclined,  we  could  not 
long  have  indulged  evil  forebodings,  for  before  sun- 
set the  heavy  clouds  of  the  western  sky  parted,  and 
the  sun  shone  out  clearly,  making  a splendid  rain- 
bow to  appear  in  the  departing  showers — a bright 
omen,  we  trusted,  that  God,  who  is  ever  faithful 
to  his  promise,  would  graciously  vouchsafe  to  us 
his  protection.  Early  next  morning  we  went  on 
board. 

I do  not  propose  to  give  a minute  sketch  of  the 
2 


10 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


incidents  of  our  way,  and  I therefore  forbear  at- 
tempting to  describe  our  last  parting,  as  we  sup- 
posed, and  as  it  proved  to  some  of  our  number, 
with  the  friends  who  had  accompanied  us.  When 
we  looked  on  a father,  a brother,  and  other  friends, 
going  from  our  vessel  in  their  little  boat  to  the 
shore,  and  saw  their  faces  not  less  pale  than  our 
own  with  deep  emotion,  we  could  hardly  believe 
that  the  hour  of  parting  at  death  itself  would  be 
more  trying.  These  separations  can  be  fully  un- 
derstood only  by  those  who  have  met  with  them. 
They  awaken  feelings  of  the  most  intense  suffer- 
ing, and  I advert  to  them  in  order  to  note  them  as 
peculiar  to  the  missionary  and  his  friends.  Other 
men,  and  women  too,  having  friends  as  numerous 
and  as  beloved,  and  with  affections  not  less  tender, 
go  abroad  for  business  or  for  pleasure;  but  they 
all  intend  to  return,  and  they  hope  afterwards  to 
find  their  home  and  their  friends  dearer  than  ever. 
From  some  countries  the  missionary  might  return 
home  occasionally,  though  in  most  cases  he  would 
thereby  consult  the  feelings  of  his  friends,  more 
than  his  own  usefulness.  But  from  places  east  of 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the  time  requisite  for  a 
visit  home,  not  to  speak  of  the  expense,  makes 
such  a visit  in  common  cases  altogether  inexpedi- 
ent. After  learning  the  language  of  the  natives 
perfectly,  the  duties  of  a missionary  are  far  too 
weighty,  and  too  incapable  of  being  transferred  to 
others,  even  were  there  others  to  take  charge  of 
them,  to  permit  him  to  leave  his  post.  And  much 
more  do  these  reasons  prohibit  the  return  of  a mis- 
sionary to  spend  the  evening  of  life  in  his  own 
country,  unless  he  have  become  incapable  of  useful 
labour,  counsel,  or  influence.  The  longer  he  lives 
among  the  heathen,  if  he  have  been  discreet  and 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


11 


faithful,  the  greater  will  be  his  influence  over  them, 
and  the  stronger,  therefore,  the  reasons  for  his  re- 
maining abroad.  Nor  will  he  desire  to  return,  for 
his  heart  will  then  have  become  completely  en- 
gaged in  his  work,  new  habits  and  trains  of  thought 
will  have  been  formed,  and  he  would  almost  feel 
himself  a stranger  in  his  early  home.  But  while 
all  this  is  true,  the  missionary,  on  leaving  his  friends 
at  first,  has  not  learnt  to  control  his  feelings  by 
considerations  so  remote,  and  he  is  obliged  to  sup- 
port himself  by  the  higher  and  better  principle  of 
faith,  the  faith  which  is  “ the  substance  of  things 
hoped  for,”  and  by  which  Abraham  “ went  out, 
not  knowing  whither  he  went.” 

Our  voyage  was  not  marked  by  any  occurrence 
of  special  interest.  Vessels  in  the  East  India  trade 
commonly  carry  out  little  freight,  and  though  sel- 
dom fitted  for  passengers,  yet,  having  plenty  of 
room,  and  being  well  found,  they  afford  comfort- 
able accommodations.  The  length  of  the  voyage 
depends  on  the  time  of  year,  speed  of  the  ship, 
and  other  common  contingencies;  four  months 
may  be  stated  as  an  average  time  of  making  the 
passage.  In  so  long  a voyage  the  time  often  passes 
tediously,  and  many  persons  give  way  to  indolent 
habits  and  to  impatience,  if  not  to  worse  traits  of 
temper;  but  if  the  weather  permits,  as  during  much 
of  the  way  it  will,  the  passenger  has  much  time  for 
reading  and  writing,  and  the  missionary  will  en- 
deavour to  improve  this  long  season  of  leisure  as  a 
Sabbath,  invaluable  for  its  rest  from  the  excitement 
and  distraction  of  leaving  home,  and  not  less  to  be 
prized  as  a time  of  thoughtful  preparation  for  the 
new  course  of  life,  on  whose  active  duties  he  is 
soon  to  enter.  With  a few  chosen  books  at  hand, 
much  time  for  reflection  and  devotional  duties,  and 


12 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


frequent  conversations  with  his  companions,  it  will 
be  greatly  his  own  fault  if  the  voyage  do  not  prove 
one  of  the  best  spent  periods  of  his  life.  So  we 
trust  it  was  to  us.  Sea-sickness,  the  most  disagree- 
able of  all  complaints,  was  in  due  time  succeeded 
by  capital  health,  excepting  to  one  of  our  number, 
whose  hope  of  restored  health  seemed  to  depend 
on  her  living  in  a milder  climate.  We  all  enjoyed 
good  spirits,  and  were  able  to  make  a good  use  of 
much  of  our  time. 

Departing  from  the  usual  route,  we  reached  the 
island  of  Madeira  on  the  24th  of  June.  We  made 
the  island  on  Sunday,  and  were  becalmed  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  shore,  the  winds  having  agreed  to 
keep  the  Sabbath,  as  one  of  the  ladies  remarked, 
and  we  were  thus  spared  the  confusion  of  going 
into  port  on  that  holy  day.  Seldom  had  we  seen 
a more  beautiful  sight,  than  when  looking  from  the 
decks  of  our  ship  at  the  side  of  the  green  moun- 
tain island  opposite  to  us.  The  summits  were  lost 
in  the  clouds,  but  the  lower  parts  of  the  island  were 
covered  with  terraced  vineyards,  and  dotted  over 
with  cottages  that  seemed  the  abodes  of  innocence 
and  contentment.  That  Sunday  happened  to  be 
one  of  the  chief  Romanist  festivals,  and  in  the  even- 
ing the  cottages  were  lighted  up  in  a thousand 
places,  and  the  churches  were  completely  brilliant 
in  the  general  illumination.  A magic  scene  appear- 
ed to  have  been  spread  before  us,  filled  with  the 
beauty  of  nature  in  her  fairest  dress  by  day-light, 
and  changed  at  even-tide  into  the  splendour  of  an- 
other world. 

We  spent  three  weeks  very  pleasantly  at  a 
quinta,  or  country-seat,  of  an  English  merchant, 
just  above  Funchal,  the  chief  town,  while  our  ship 
was  discharging  and  receiving  freight.  During  this 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


13 


time  we  were  often  reminded  by  the  ignorance  and 
poverty  of  the  people,  the  absence  of  enterprize, 
the  crowds  of  beggars,  the  numbers  of  churches 
with  no  sermons  preached  in  them,  the  multitudes 
of  priests  in  their  peculiar  garb,  that  the  dark  pall 
of  the  Roman  religion  was  spread  over  the  island. 
If  an  American  would  know  what  the  legitimate 
influence  of  that  religion  really  is,  let  him  visit  a 
country  where  it  prevails  without  a rival,  where 
its  character  is  neither  elevated  nor  modified  by  the 
presence  of  purer  forms  of  Christianity,  where  Ro- 
manism, with  its  monks,  and  nuns,  and  many 
ringing  bells,  and  innumerable  outward  solemni- 
ties, has  banished  the  free  and  pure  religion  of  the 
heart  and  its  thousand  temporal  benefits. 

Leaving  Madeira  on  the  13th  of  July,  we  took 
the  north-east  trade  winds  shortly  afterwards,  and 
soon  got  down  towards  the  equator,  where  the  pa- 
tience of  the  sailors,  and  passengers  too,  was  tried 
with  light  and  variable  winds,  calms,  and  little 
progress.  After  entering  the  south-east  trade 
winds  on  the  other  side  of  the  line,  we  had  again 
delightful  sailing.  These  trade  winds  are  supposed 
to  be  caused  by  the  colder  air  of  the  higher  lati- 
tudes, which  rushes  down  to  supply  the  place  of 
the  air  that,  becoming  heated  and  expanded,  then 
ascends  from  the  latitudes  near  the  equator.  Blow- 
ing steadily  from  one  quarter,  always  strong  enough 
to  carry  us  from  seven  to  ten  miles  an  hour,  almost 
without  a sail  having  to  be  changed,  and  being  of 
a pleasant  temperature,  it  is  not  strange  that  these 
winds  should  be  so  eagerly  desired  by  sailors.  In 
a few  weeks  we  had  run  over  several  thousand 
miles,  the  dashing  foam  from  the  sides  of  our  ship 
being  like  music  to  our  ears.  Now  was  the  time 
for  the  men  to  overhaul  the  sails  and  rigging  of  the 


14 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


ship,  and  to  prepare  for  rougher  weather.  On 
Sundays,  our  public  worship,  always  performed 
through  the  kindness  of  captain  Griffin,  when  the 
weather  permitted,  could  now  be  conducted  with 
a composure  hardly  less  than  if  we  had  been  in 
church  at  home. 

Our  Sabbath  services  were  well  attended,  and 
a Bible  class  lesson  before  the  mast  on  Sunday 
afternoons  seemed  to  interest  the  men.  What 
results  may  have  followed  our  ministrations,  the 
great  day  must  disclose.  We  could  not  but  feel 
convinced  that  religious  services  on  board  ship  are 
commonly  undertaken  at  a great  disadvantage.  The 
sailors  are  divided  into  two  companies,  called  the 
larboard  and  starboard  watches,  and  have  four  hour 
turns  of  duty  at  night,  and  four  and  two  hour  turns 
in  the  day-time,  requiring  therefore  much  of  the 
day  to  make  up  the  loss  of  sleep  at  night,  and  hav- 
ing always  plenty  of  work  when  awake,  so  that 
they  have  little  leisure  for  receiving  instruction.  It 
must  be  added,  that  too  commonly  they  have  but 
little  inclination  to  attend  to  religious  things.  But 
when  the  officers  of  a ship  will  permit  efforts  to 
be  made  for  their  benefit,  and  permission  should 
always  be  respectfully  and  discreetly  asked,  and 
prudently  used  when  granted,  then  should  mission- 
aries be  willing  gladly  to  avail  themselves  of  the 
opportunity  of  giving  religious  instruction  to  those 
who  so  greatly  need  it.  Repeated  instances  have 
been  known  in  which  such  endeavours,  faithfully 
and  wisely  made,  have  been  attended  with  the 
greatest  encouragement. 

Our  own  party  had  morning  and  evening  pray- 
ers in  the  captain’s  cabin,  attended  usually  by  the 
officers,  and  a weekly  service  amongst  ourselves 
for  the  study  of  the  Scriptures.  The  greater  part 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


15 


of  the  book  of  Acts  was  thus  brought  under  review, 
with  particular  reference  to  its  missionary  instruc- 
tion. And  these  times  of  social  religious  duty  we 
found  to  be  peculiarly  pleasant  and  valuable. 

Our  fine  trade  winds  at  length  failed  us,  and 
after  a while  we  got  to  the  latitude  of  the  Cape. 
For  several  weeks  we  were  making  our  “ easting,” 
that  is,  sailing  eastward,  in  a direct  course,  as  the 
degrees  of  longitude  there  are  short.  We  were 
now  in  the  midst  of  the  southern  winter;  the  wea- 
ther was  cold,  damp,  and  most  uncomfortable;  the 
wind  often  very  high,  and  the  sea  rough  and  tem- 
pestuous. We  could  read  but  little,  and  that  with 
no  satisfaction.  Returning  sea-sickness,  occasion- 
ally, made  our  situation  the  more  disagreeable. 
Several  heavy  gales  came  on,  one  of  which  was 
the  strongest  the  captain  had  seen  for  many  years. 
It  continued  for  three  days,  and  those  were  days 
of  intense  anxiety.  It  was  considered  extremely 
uncertain  whether  we  should  be  able  to  resist  the 
violence  of  the  gale,  and  we  endeavoured  to  pre- 
pare our  minds  for  the  worst.  Blessed  be  God, 
our  minds  were  kept  in  peace,  but  it  was  distress- 
ing to  witness  the  anxiety  that  prevailed  amongst  • 
some  of  our  ship’s  company.  By  the  good  hand 
of  God  upon  us,  however,  we  were  kept  from 
harm  and  broughtout  of  all  our  distresses,  and  with 
thankful  hearts  we  endeavoured  to  consecrate  our- 
selves anew  to  the  service  of  Him  whose  protec- 
tion we  had  so  manifestly  enjoyed.  The  weather 
became  more  pleasant  soon  after  our  course  was 
directed  to  the  north.  Passing  rapidly  through  the 
trade  winds  again,  we  found  the  eastern  seas,  near 
and  under  the  equator,  as  hard  to  cross  as  the  At- 
lantic, on  account  of  light,  baffling  winds,  and  fre- 
quent calms.  The  rest  of  the  voyage  was  up  the 


16 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


Bay  of  Bengal,  consuming  nearly  a month,  as  the 
winds  were  now  unfavourable.  On  the  11th  of 
October,  we  descried  the  pilot  vessel,  anchored  al- 
ways off  the  Sand  Heads,  far  out  of  sight  of  land, 
and  in  a few  hours  we  took  a pilot  on  board.  In 
a short  time  we  succeeded  in  beating  through  the 
dangerous  channels  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hoogley, 
and  before  night  we  cast  anchor  in  the  waters  of 
that  river,  the  most  sacred  outlet  of  the  Ganges. 

We  were  now  near  the  island  of  Sagor;  which 
Hamilton  described  in  1828,  as  “ a celebrated  place 
of  pilgrimage  among  the  Hindus,  on  account  of  the 
great  sanctity  arising  from  its  situation  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  holiest  branch  of  the  Ganges  with  the 
ocean.  Many  sacrifices  are  in  consequence  here 
annually  performed,  of  aged  persons  of  both  sexes, 
which  are  voluntary,  and  of  children,  which  of 
course  are  involuntary,  the  periods  fixed  for  their 
celebration  being  the  full  moon  in  November  and 
January.”  This  horrible  custom  was  soon  after- 
wards suppressed  by  the  British.  The  island  is 
but  partially  cultivated  and  inhabited. 

The  anchor  was  hardly  down  before  two  or 
three  boat  loads  of  native  fishermen  climbed  up 
over  the  bulwarks  of  the  Star,  and  we  had  the  offer 
of  their  marketing  and  their  services  to  aid  in  get- 
ting up  the  river,  with  such  a chattering  of  their 
almost  inarticulate  words  as  seemed  not  unlike  the 
speech  of  a troop  of  monkeys.  They  were  of 
small,  light,  and  active  frame,  dark  complexion, 
agreeable  and  lively  expression,  but  with  no  ap- 
pearance of  intelligence,  and  evidently  very  poor. 
Their  coming  on  board  was  a common  thing  to  our 
officers  and  other  passengers,  who  had  made  se- 
veral visits  to  Calcutta,  but  to  us  they  were  objects 
of  extreme  interest.  These  were  the  people  whom 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


17 


we  had  come  to  make  acquainted  with  the  true 
God  and  eternal  life.  But  how  hard  to  believe 
that  such  poor,  almost  naked,  miserable  looking 
beings  should  ever  become  intelligent  and  refined 
Christians!  Again,  as  often  before  and  oftener 
since,  we  had  to  rely  on  the  revealed  promise  of 
God,  and  the  assurance  of  his  power  and  infinite 
mercy. 

When  we  were  opposite  Kedgeree,  an  English 
station  about  one  hundred  miles  below  Calcutta, 
where  letters  by  ship  are  received  and  forwarded, 
we  despatched  some  of  our  letters  to  Calcutta, 
with  a request  that  a boat  might  be  sent  down  for 
us,  as  it  was  very  desirable  that  my  wife,  whose 
health,  feeble  when  she  left,  had  become  greatly 
impaired,  should  escape  from  the  noise  of  working 
the  ship  by  frequent  tacking  up  the  narrow  channel 
of  the  river.  Vessels  going  to  Calcutta  during  the 
cold  season  are  often  a week  in  getting  up  the  river, 
and  they  are  as  long  in  coming  down  during  the 
rainy  season,  and  vice  versa. 

On  the  second  day  we  had  the  pleasure  of  meet- 
ing the  Rev.  G.  Pearce,  a Baptist  missionary, 
whom  vve  soon  became  much  attached  to,  who  had 
kindly  come  down  in  a small  boat  to  receive  us 
and  accompany  us  up  the  river.  We  left  the  Star 
in  the  afternoon  with  every  feeling  of  gratitude  to 
our  kind  Captain  and  to  Dr.  Huffnagle,  the  sur- 
geon, for  their  constant  and  valuable  attention  to 
our  comfort,  and  of  kind  regard  for  the  other  pas- 
sengers, but  with  no  regret  at  making  our  escape 
from  the  confinement  and  the  now  almost  intolera- 
ble noise  of  the  vessel.  Cur  boatmen  pulled  along 
cheerily  with  the  rapid  tide,  and  when  the  tide 
turned,  they  dropped  their  anchor,  which  was  but 
a basket  with  stones  in  it,  and  wrapping  themselves 


18 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


each  one  in  a long  sheet  of  coarse  muslin,  they 
were  soon  fast  asleep.  Before  morning  we  were 
again  under  weigh,  and  when  the  day  broke  we 
were  but  a few  miles  from  Garden  Reach,  below 
Calcutta. 

Our  boat  people  kept  close  to  the  shore,  and  the 
banks  were  so  low  that  we  could  easily  see  some 
distance  in  the  country  back  from  the  river.  The 
little  groupes  of  cottages  were  planted  thickly  under 
the  cocoa,  palm,  and  other  trees,  which  to  us  were 
as  strange  as  they  were  beautiful.  They  were  of 
the  greenest  foliage,  with  fragrant  creeping  plants 
climbing  through  their  branches,  and  many  of  them 
were  laden  with  fruit,  and  shining  with  brilliant 
flowers.  Strange  birds  were  flying  from  tree  to 
tree,  and  the  people  were  beginning  their  daily 
labours — men  going  to  the  fields,  or  casting  their 
nets,  and  women  coming  to  the  river,  filling  their 
earthen  water  vessels,  placing  them  on  their  heads, 
and  returning  to  their  homes.  The  whole  was  a 
beautiful  scene,  novel  in  the  highest  degree,  almost 
like  a picture  of  some  fancy-land,  and  yet  full  of 
life  and  freshness.  And  when  the  air  came  laded 
and  fragrant  with  the  scent  of  the  earth  and  its 
rich  vegetation,  so  different  from  the  close  smell  of 
a ship  four  months  at  sea,  it  was  in  the  highest 
degree  reviving  and  exhilarating.  My  poor  wife, 
ever  passionately  fond  of  country  scenes,  but  now 
too  enfeebled  to  bear  excitement  with  safety,  was 
quite  overcome  before  we  reached  the  end  of  our 
sail.  Passing  the  stately  European  mansions  on 
Garden  Reach,  and  the  Company’s  Botanical  gar- 
den, and  Bishop’s  College  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  we  were  soon  in  the  midst  of  increasing 
multitudes  of  boats,  and  the  hum  of  many  sounds, 
until  presently  we  swept  under  the  walls  of  Fort 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


19 


William  and  were  in  full  view  of  Government 
House.  Landing  at  one  of  the  ghats  or  stairs,  we 
were  soon  received  with  the  greatest  kindness  by 
the  Rev.  W.  H.  Pearce  and  his  estimable  wife. 
In  a few  days  we  were  joined  by  our  missionary 
companions,  who  came  up  with  the  ship,  and  we 
took  pleasure  in  praising  the  Lord  for  his  goodness 
in  bringing  us  to  our  desired  haven. 


CHAPTER  II. 

INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 

Extent  of  the  country,  soil,  and  productions — Population — 
Appearance  of  the  people — Houses — Civdization — Caste. 

We  had  been  instructed  by  the  society*  to  make 
inquiries  on  arriving  at  Calcutta,  as  to  the  most 
eligible  sphere  of  missionary  labour.  The  Upper 
Provinces  of  India,  it  was  supposed,  might  be 
such  a sphere,  but  we  were  at  liberty  to  choose 
any  other  part  of  the  country  that  should  appear 
more  inviting.  We  at  once  proceeded  to  fulfil  this 
part  of  our  commission.  Having  previously  ex- 
amined various  works  treating  of  India,  our  aim 
now  was  to  obtain  information  partly  by  observing 
ourselves  the  state  of  things,  but  chiefly  from  inter- 

* The  Western  Foreign  Missionary  Society.  This 
society  was  afterwards  merged  in  the  Board  of  Foreign 
Missions  of  the  Presbyterian  Church.  For  an  account  of 
these  institutions,  see  a volume  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Green, 
called  Pesbyterian  Missions,  published  at  Philadelphia  in 
1838. 


20 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


course  with  intelligent  gentlemen  who  had  long 
resided  in  the  country.  And  we  were  peculiarly 
favoured  in  meeting  with  several  Christian  friends, 
who  had  extensive  and  accurate  information  at 
command,  the  results  of  many  years’  observation, 
and  who  had  also  every  disposition  to  promote  our 
views.  I may  mention  particularly  our  kind  host, 
the  Rev.  W.  H.  Pearce,  who  has  since  entered  into 
his  rest,  a devoted  Baptist  missionary,  and  one  of 
the  best  men  I have  ever  known,  long  the  efficient 
superintendent  of  the  most  extensive  printing  esta- 
blishment in  India;  the  Rev.  Dr.  Marshman,  ven- 
erable for  many  years  of  missionary  life,  as  well 
as  for  most  extensive  knowledge  and  unquestioned 
talent;  the  Rev.  M.  Winslow,  our  respected  coun- 
tryman, of  the  Ceylon  mission,  then  at  Calcutta 
waiting  for  a passage  home  for  his  health ; the  Rev. 
Dr.  Duff,  the  able  and  eloquent  Scotch  missionary ; 
and  C.  E.  Trevelyan,  Esq.,  one  of  the  Secretaries 
in  the  Political  Department  of  the  Supreme  Gov- 
ernment. The  information  we  received  from  these 
two  last  named  gentlemen,  was  highly  valuable; 
the  former  had  been  making  special  inquiries  con- 
cerning the  part  of  the  country  which  we  had  more 
particularly  in  view,  and  the  latter  had  himself 
resided  for  a number  of  years  in  the  Upper  Pro- 
vinces, and  being  a man  of  acknowledged  talent 
and  liberal  views,  and  moreover  able  to  appreciate 
the  missionary  movements  of  the  Church  of  Christ, 
his  information  was  extremely  useful  to  us. 

Before  giving  an  account  of  the  considerations 
which  induced  our  final  decision,  it  may  not  be 
out  of  place  to  give  some  general  notices  of  the 
country  and  people,  which  may  aid  the  reader  to 
understand  the  importance  of  our  mission.  I 
ought,  however,  in  fairness  to  mention  that  none 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDU8. 


21 


of  the  gentlemen,  whose  names  I have  taken  the 
liberty  of  referring  to,  can  be  held  responsible  for 
the  following  views,  as  I shall  make  use  of  infor- 
mation received  and  conclusions  formed  at  a later 
period  of  my  acquaintance  with  India,  than  pertains 
to  this  stage  of  the  narrative.  It  is,  however,  but 
a slight  sketch  that  can  here  be  given.  Many  able 
and  learned  volumes  have  been  written  on  these 
subjects,  which  the  reader  who  desires  to  see  more 
satisfactory  statements,  will  of  course  consult.  I 
shall  be  glad  if  the  outline  here  presented  shall 
awaken  a desire  to  possess  fuller  information. 

India  is  an  extensive  country,  lying  between 
lat.  8°  and  35°  N.,  and  long.  67°  and  92°  E.  Its 
boundaries  are  the  Bay  of  Bengal  and  Burmah  on 
the  east,  the  Himalaya  mountains  on  the  entire 
north-east,  the  river  Indus  and  the  Arabian  Sea  on 
the  north-west  and  west ; which  enclose  an  area  of 
one  million  three  hundred  thousand  square  miles, 
running  nearly  to  a point  on  the  south,  in  the  In- 
dian ocean,  being  a territory  nearly  one-third  larger 
than  that  of  these  United  States.  The  term  India, 
as  often  used,  includes  the  countries  further  east, 
but  I shall  employ  it  agreeably  to  the  common 
usage  of  late  years,  as  the  name  of  the  territory 
whose  boundaries  have  just  been  given.  The 
Vindya  mountains  or  hills  extend  from  the  western 
side  almost  to  the  Ganges,  in  the  parallels  of  lati- 
tude from  23°  to  25°.  South  of  this  range  the 
country  is  called  the  Deckan,  and  sometimes  Pe- 
ninsular India;  the  country  to  the  north  of  these 
hills  is  called  Hindustan. 

The  greater  part  of  this  country  possesses  a soil 
of  great  fertility,  particularly  the  immense  plains 
watered  by  the  Ganges  and  its  tributaries,  embra- 
cing, perhaps,  four  hundred  thousand  square  miles, 


22 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


for  the  most  part  of  extremely  rich,  loamy,  and  allu- 
vial soil;  these  plains  are  probably  the  most  fertile 
and  densely  inhabited  regions  of  the  earth.  The 
most  remote  of  the  north-western  provinces,  often 
called  the  Upper  Provinces,  or  Upper  India,  be- 
come rather  dry  and  sandy,  with  a sparser  popu- 
lation, and  towards  the  Indus  there  is  an  extensive 
sandy  desert.  What  is  called  Central  India,  is 
said  to  be  an  elevated,  broken,  and  rather  sterile 
and  thinly  inhabited  country;  and  along  the  wes- 
tern coast  of  the  southern  part,  or  Peninsular  India, 
there  is  a continuous  range  of  hills,  rising  some- 
times to  the  height  of  six  thousand  feet,  and  an- 
other, but  lower  range,  along  the  eastern  side, 
about  one  hundred  miles  back  from  the  sea;  be- 
tween these  mountainous  ranges  themselves,  and 
also  between  them  and  the  sea,  the  soil  is  good, 
and  supports  a large  population. 

The  climate  is,  during  most  of  the  year,  ex- 
tremely warm,  and  for  three  or  four  months,  heavy 
rains  fall  almost  incessantly.  Thus  with  a good 
soil,  great  heat,  and  plenty  of  moisture  for  a long 
time  in  each  year,  the  fertility  of  a large  part  of  the 
land  is  almost  unbounded,  and  vegetation  is  exceed- 
ingly rapid  in  its  growth.  Rice,  cotton,  sugar- 
cane, tobacco,  opium,  indigo,  and  various  small 
grains,  are  the  productions  of  the  lower,  central? 
and  peninsular  provinces;  these  are  not  all  grown 
in  the  same  districts,  but  all  may  be  met  with.  Fur- 
ther to  the  north,  wheat  and  the  hardier  grains  are 
common.  Among  the  fruits  are  the  cocoa-nut,  the 
banana,  the  mango,  the  guava,  &c. 

The  people  are  numerous,  almost  beyond  the 
belief  of  one  who  has  been  brought  up  in  a newly 
settled  country;  the  whole  number  is  commonly 
stated  at  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions. 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


23 


When  it  is  recollected  that  some  large  districts  are 
very  thinly  inhabited,  it  will  be  perceived  that  a 
very  dense  population  is  thrown  into  the  remain- 
ing, though  still  the  much  larger  provinces.  Thus 
in  Bengal,  a province  not  larger  than  the  states  of 
New  York  and  Pennsylvania,  the  number  of  in- 
habitants is  estimated  at  thirty  millions. 

The  complexion  of  the  Hindus  varies  from  that 
of  the  coal  black  labourers  under  the  burning  sun 
in  the  fields,  to  the  olive-colour  of  the  wealthy 
classes,  or  the  agreeable  brunette  of  the  lad}^  of 
the  Zennana.  Their  features  are  commonly  very 
regular  and  pleasing,  their  hair  always  dark ; in 
their  bodily  frame  the  natives  of  the  lower  pro- 
vinces are  slight  and  feeble,  and  they  are  of  a timid 
effeminate  disposition;  but  towards  the  north-west 
you  find  a hardier,  bolder  race,  amongst  whom 
you  often  meet  with  noble-looking  men  of  a proud, 
military  bearing,  wearing  always  full  beards,  which 
add  greatly  to  their  fierce  appearance. 

They  live  commonly  in  very  poor  houses,  made 
of  bamboo  wicker-work,  or  of  clay  walls  dried  in 
the  sun,  some  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  and  twelve 
or  fourteen  square,  without  windows;  (fire  places 
are  not  needed ;)  sometimes  divided  by  a basket- 
work  partition  to  provide  an  inner  abode  for  the 
female  members  of  the  family;  with  often  a close 
hedge  or  mud  wall  to  screen  the  back  yard,  and 
always  nearly  destitute  of  what  we  should  call 
furniture,  having  neither  chairs,  tables,  nor  other 
heavy  articles,  but  merely  a low  rude  bedstead,  a 
mat  or  two  to  sit  on  like  tailors  on  the  clay  floor, 
and  a few  simple  cooking  utensils.  This  descrip- 
tion applies  chiefly  to  the  houses  of  the  common 
people.  The  wealthy  and  the  great  live  in  much 
larger  and  more  costly  edifices.  The  houses  of 


24 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


the  Hindus  are  never  found  standing  by  them- 
selves, like  farm  houses  in  this  country,  but  always 
in  villages,  if  not  in  larger  towns  and  cities. 

The  Hindus  are  by  no  means  an  uncivilized 
people,  though  they  have  made  little  progress  in 
the  higher  attainments  of  modern  civilization. 
They  , have,  however,  a complete  division  of  la- 
bour, with  regular  employment,  usages,  and  set- 
tled opinions  concerning  the  subjects  with  which 
they  are  acquainted.  Blacksmiths,  carpenters, 
weavers,  brass-workers,  potters,  shoemakers,  tai- 
lors, jewellers,  and  a few  other  mechanics  may  be 
found  in  all  the  large  cities;  the  mass  of  the  peo- 
ple, however,  cultivate  the  ground,  though  many 
ate  herdsmen,  boatmen,  fishermen,  barbers,  &c. 
Multitudes  are  priests,  and  not  a few  are  beggars, 
either  from  necessity  or  from  religious  error.  In 
a few  branches  of  industry  they  have  attained 
great  excellence,  as  the  Dacca  fine  muslins,  and 
the  Cashmere  fabrics  bear  witness;  but  most  of 
their  manufactures  are  of  a coarse  quality,  and 
their  labour  in  the  fields  is  performed  with  the 
rudest  implements.  There  is  no  improvement  in 
their  industry  or  skill.  They  are,  and  have  been 
for  centuries,  almost  stationary  in  their  position. 
They  wear  the  same  white  muslins,  and  have  the 
same  fondness  for  showy  processions,  that  Alex- 
ander the  Great  witnessed  on  the  banks  of  the 
Indus,  four  centuries  before  the  time  of  our  Saviour. 
Doubtless  they  then  ploughed  the  ground  with  a 
similar  sharp  pointed  stick,  and  rowed  their  boats 
with  oars  projecting  far  out  over  the  water,  and 
had  their  few  horses  shod  by  an  itinerant  black- 
smith, carrying  his  stock  of  tools  tied  up  in  an 
apron. 

How  are  we  to  account  for  this  wonderfully 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


25 


stereotype  character  of  every  thing  Indian?  It 
may  he  owing  partly  to  the  denseness  of  the  popu- 
lation; for  in  countries  where  the  inhabitants  are 
extremely  numerous,  and  the  means  of  subsistence 
scarcely  equal  lo  their  support,  changes  are  made 
with  great  difficulty.  Other  causes  may  have 
their  influence.  I cannot  doubt  that  much  should 
be  ascribed  to  the  system  of  caste,  which  is  uni- 
versally prevalent. 

This  peculiar  system  was  and  continues  to  be 
primarily  a religious  institution,  but  it  has  become 
interwoven  with  the  social  and  civil  institutions  of 
the  country,  and  indeed  with  the  entire  life  of  the 
Hindus.  It  completely  perpetuates  the  state  of 
things  with  which  it  has  become  connected.  Any 
general  change  would  be  fatal  to  its  power.  Origi- 
nally there  were  but  four  castes.  The  Brahman, 
formed  from  the  mouth  of  the  Creator  to  expound 
his  laws,  stands  at  the  highest  point  of  human 
elevation;  the  gods  themselves  are  hardly  his 
superiors;  all  rulers  who  are  not  of  his  own  order, 
are  far  below  his  rank,  and  for  the  most  atrocious 
crimes  his  life,  under  the  native  law,  cannot  be 
taken  from  him.  Then  follows  the  Kshatriya, 
formed  from  the  arms  of  the  Creator,  to  protect 
the  Brahmans  in  their  spiritual  duties.  The  noble 
looking  Raj-puts  of  the  western  provinces  are 
generally  Kshatriyas,  and  are  in  great  numbers 
found  in  the  native  regiments  of  the  East  India 
Company,  where  they  make  capital  soldiers.  Be- 
low them  are  the  Vaissyas,  created  from  the  belly 
of  their  deity,  and  much  inferior  to  the  two  higher 
classes.  They  are  the  ryots  or  farmers,  a simple 
minded,  regular,  peaceful  body  of  people,  as  farm- 
ers are  every  where,  enjoying  the  proud  distinc- 
tion of  minding  chiefly  their  own  business,  shar- 
3 


26 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


ing  more  largely  in  the  quiet  satisfaction  of  human 
life,  and  less  in  its  turmoils,  than  any  other  class 
of  people.  Still  lower  are  the  Indras,  formed  to 
be  servants  to  the  Brahmans  from  the  feet  of  their 
god.  Thus  does  this  system  exalt  the  Brahman 
tribe,  and  degrade  all  the  other  classes  of  the  peo- 
ple. It  was  probably  introduced  to  promote  and 
perpetuate  the  power  of  the  priestly  class,  as  the 
various  monastic  institutions,  with  their  regula- 
tions, are  made  subsidiary  to  the  power  and  eleva- 
tion of  the  Roman  ecclesiastics  above  the  common 
people. 

It  would  seem  that  the  original  features  of  this 
institution  have,  in  the  progress  of  many  centuries, 
become  greatly  changed.  It  would  now  be  a dif- 
ficult task  to  determine  a Hindu’s  employment, 
or  even  his  relative  standing  among  his  country- 
men, by  his  relation  to  these  general  divisions  of 
the  system.  Numerous  sub-divisions  of  caste  have 
occurred,  and  many  mixed  castes  exist,  though 
new  sects,  I believe,  are  no  longer  formed.  Per- 
haps few  subjects  are  more  embarrassing  than  the 
formation  and  rules  of  these  mixed  classes;  I shall 
not  attempt  to  describe  them.  It  will  be  sufficient 
to  note  that  while  the  original  classification  still 
exists  as  the  basis  of  all  the  existing  varieties,  and 
in  a great  measure  determines  their  rank,  still 
these  smaller  divisions  have  landmarks  of  their 
own,  and  their  usages  are  tenaciously  adhered  to 
by  their  respective  members.  At  the  present  day 
every  occupation  is  allotted  to  a distinct  sect.  A 
person  of  one  caste  never  eats  with  one  of  a dif- 
ferent caste,  nor  are  marriage  connexions  formed 
between  them.  The  system  is  hereditary,  and  so 
is  commonly  the  occupation;  the  son  of  a farmer 
being  commonly  a farmer,  the  son  of  a shop- 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


27 


keeper  a shop-keeper;  and  the  usages  of  the  sys- 
tem, like  the  laws  of  the  Medes  and  Persians,  are 
unchangeable.  There  can  be  no  change  but  by 
falling,  no  rising  to  a higher  class,  nor  transition 
from  one  to  another;  and  the  transgression  of  the 
smallest  ceremonial  would  precipitate  even  a Brah- 
man to  the  bottom  of  society.  Provision  is  made, 
however,  for  restoring  those  who  have  fallen  to 
their  former  standing.  Liberal  presents  and  boun- 
teous feasts  to  the  Brahmans  have  great  efficacy  in 
expiating  the  offence  incurred  by  a departure  from 
the  usages  of  this  system,  if  the  penitent  transgres- 
sor will  but  walk  more  strictly  for  the  future. 

It  would  be  a departure  from  the  usages  of  caste 
to  adopt  any  improvement  in  any  kind  of  employ- 
ment, and  the  violation  of  these  usages  would  be 
instantly  visited  with  the  severest  punishment,  the 
loss  of  property,  of  reputation,  of  employment, 
even  all  hope  of  obtaining  from  the  nearest  rela- 
tion the  cold  charity  bestowed  on  common  beg- 
gars by  the  hand  of  strangers.  Here  is  one  great 
difficulty  preventing  the  conversion  of  this  people 
to  Christianity.  To  receive  the  memorials  of  the 
Lord’s  Supper  in  company  with  other  communi- 
cants, would  be  a violation  of  caste,  unless  the 
officiating  minister  and  all  the  communicants  were 
of  the  same  caste;  and  the  same  difficulty  is  appa- 
rent as  to  other  Christian  duties.  Nor  is  it  less  a 
hinderance  to  all  improvement  in  the  temporal 
affairs  of  the  people.  It  is  a heavy  weight  crush- 
ing down  the  spirit  of  enterprize,  even  though 
enterprize  in  that  land  is  goaded  on  by  necessity, 
and  quickened  by  the  keenest  appetite  of  covetous- 
ness. It  raises  a wall  around  the  Hindu,  which 
he  never  dreams  of  climbing  over  or  throwing 
down.  He  concludes  that  such  is  his  fate,  “ Ham- 


28 


THE  HINDUS. 


ara  dastur  hai,”  “ it  is  our  custom,”  is  his  resign- 
ed, passive  reply  to  every  proposal  of  a change. 
Shall  this  dreadful  system  always  bind  down  the 
minds  of  the  people  of  India?  No,  surely.  Its 
very  weight  and  bondage  will  conduce  the  sooner 
to  its  being  thrown  off,  when  the  people  begin  to 
see  its  many  direful  evils.  And  other  considera- 
tions, which  cannot  here  be  introduced,  serve  to 
show  that  the  day  is  drawing  nigh  when  this  mas- 
ter-piece of  the  great  spiritual  adversary’s  inven- 
tion to  enslave  the  minds  of  men,  shall  be  broken 
and  dashed  into  a thousand  fragments,  and  when 
it  shall  be  known  only  on  the  pages  of  history  as 
one  of  the  almost  incredible  things  of  former  ages. 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE  HINDUS CONTINUED. 

Poverty  of  the  People — Literature — Religion. 

From  the  account  already  given  of  their  houses 
and  style  of  living,  it  will  be  readily  inferred  that 
the  Hindus  are  generally  a very  poor  people. 
There  are  a few  persons  of  large  wealth,  chiefly 
merchants,  bankers,  and  farmers  of  the  govern- 
ment revenue  from  landed  property ; but  the  mass 
of  the  people  are  extremely  poor,  living  on  two 
scanty  vegetable  meals  a day,  clothing  themselves 
with  the  coarsest  cotton  fabrics,  and  lodging  in 
hovels  such  as  have  been  described.  In  the  part  of 
the  country  through  which  I travelled,  which  con- 
tains two-thirds  of  the  population  of  India,  the 


THE  HINDUS. 


29 


common  rate  of  wages  for  labouring  men  was  from 
two  and  a half  to  four  rupees  a month,  or  from  one 
dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  to  two  dollars,  and  this 
was  their  entire  compensation,  as  they  received 
neither  clothes  nor  board  in  addition,  and  more- 
over they  had  no  Sabbaths,  those  blessed  days  of 
rest  to  the  poor  man.  This  poverty  is  not  owing 
to  indolence,  for  they  are  an  industrious,  though 
not  an  energetic  people ; nor  is  it  owing  to  want  of 
thrift,  for  no  people  know  better  how  to  make  a 
few  coppers  buy  a good  supply  of  marketing.  Nor 
is  it  owing,  as  it  appears  to  me,  to  the  oppressive 
government  of  their  present  rulers.  It  must  be 
admitted,  however,  that  the  Hindus  are  losers  un- 
der their  present  government  in  one  important  mat- 
ter, though  it  is  difficult  rightly  to  appreciate  their 
disadvantage.  The  revenue  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany and  the  income  of  their  servants  are  not  all 
spent  in  India;  nor  does  commerce  restore  to  the 
Hindus  what  they  lose  by  this  constant  drain  of 
their  pecuniary  means.  Their  former  rulers  lived 
and  died  amongst  them,  and  though  their  exactions 
might  have  been  ruinous  to  individuals,  yet  they 
did  not  diminish  the  ability  of  the  people  at  large ; 
what  one  man  was  deprived  of,  another  enjoyed — 
it  may  have  been  most  iniquitously ; yet  the  mo- 
ney was  still  kept  in  India.  The  British  succeed- 
ed the  Mohammedans  as  the  rulers  of  India,  and 
they  have  greatly  improved  the  condition  of  the 
common  people  ; but  they  may  not  have  sufficient- 
ly changed  the  general  system  of  their  predeces- 
sors, so  as  to  allow  to  the  cultivators  of  the  soil  a 
larger  subsistence  from  their  labours.  The  amount 
of  taxation,  of  every  kind,  under  the  East  India 
Company,  has  been  stated  at  less  than  one  dollar 
on  the  average  to  each  Hindu — a sum  which  does 


30 


THE  HINDUS. 


not  appear  excessive,  and  which,  poor  as  the  mass 
of  people  are,  probably  would  not  be  burdensome 
if  it  were  returned  through  other  channels,  as  is 
the  case  in  nearly  all  other  countries,  to  the  people 
at  large.  About  £3,500,000,  it  is  stated,  is  annu- 
ally remitted  to  England,  being  rather  more  than 
one-sixth  of  the  whole  amount  of  taxes  paid  to  the 
British  by  the  Hindus. 

It  may  also  be  questioned  whether  the  manner  of 
administering  the  government  of  India  is  not  too 
purely  foreign  and  English,  and  some  might  doubt 
whether  it  is  sufficiently  responsible, 'not  to  the  Hin- 
dus, who  are  certainly  incapable  at  present  of  gov- 
erning themselves,  but  to  the  British  people;  for 
India  must  now  be  regarded  as  a dependency  of 
of  the  British  Empire.  Whatever  be  the  director 
the  remote  influence  of  these  considerations  on  the 
condition  of  the  Indians,  I am  satisfied  that  their 
general  poverty  cannot  be  ascribed  to  British  rule. 
Their  government  is  attended  with  its  disadvan- 
tages, no  doubt,  but  it  secures  to  every  man  the 
possession  of  his  property,  the  sacredness  from 
illegal  violence  of  his  person  and  his  family,  and 
the  redress  of  his  grievances,  so  far  as  that  can  be 
effected  amongst  so  corrupt  a people.  In  one 
word,  it  is  a government  of  Law,  conferring  bless- 
ings which  were  unknown  under  native  and  Mo- 
hammedan rule.  Then  the  wealthy  studiously 
concealed  their  wealth,  and  clad  themselves  in 
poorer  garb  than  other  people.  Then  no  man’s 
wife  or  daughter  was  secure  from  insult,  and  it 
could  hardly  be  said  that  any  man’s  life  was  safe; 
lawless  despotism  reigned  over  the  land,  which 
was  the  more  galling  because  in  the  hands  of  nu- 
merous and  constantly  changing  rajahs  and  nabobs. 
Perhaps  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  proofs  of  the 


TIIE  HINDUS. 


31 


good  influence  of  British  rule  in  India  is  found  in 
the  fact  often  witnessed,  that  whenever  a district 
or  town,  that  previously  belonged  to  a native  king 
or  chief,  comes  under  the  authority  of  the  British, 
immediately  the  natives  move  into  it  and  ihe  num- 
ber of  its  inhabitants  largely  increases.  Such  was 
the  case  at  Lodiana,  where  I was  settled,  and  at 
other  places  that  came  under  my  own  observation. 

The  great  body  of  the  Hindus  were  always,  un- 
der every  variety  of  government,  a very  poor  peo- 
ple; their  present  poverty,  therefore,  is  no  new 
thing;  nor  are  the  late  famines,  and  the  lamentable 
loss  of  life  thereby,  new  dispensations  in  that  coun- 
try. Perhaps,  also,  in  a country  of  which  many 
provinces  contain  a population  so  densely  over- 
grown, it  could  hardly  be  otherwise  than  that  most 
of  its  inhabitants  would  be  compelled  to  live  on 
short  allowances;  the  means  of  subsistence  are 
not  proportioned  to  the  number  of  mouths  to  be 
supplied;  and  this  natural  evil  has  no  doubt  been 
made  worse  by  the  selfishness  of  commerce,  in 
exporting  to  other  countries  large  quantities  of  rice 
for  the  provision  of  people  who  can  afford  to  pay 
a better  price  for  their  bread.  The  grand  cause 
of  Hindu  poverty  and  suffering,  in  my  judgment, 
is  the  intolerable  burden  of  their  religious  system, 
with  its  countless  hosts  of  unprofitable  priests  and 
faqirs;  its  multitudes  of  beggars,  earning  religious 
merit,  not  urged  by  necessity  to  seek  for  alms  ; its 
numerous  long,  expensive,  and  painful  pilgrimages 
to  holy  shrines  and  places,  involving  thousands  of 
families  every  year  in  utter  ruin;  its  incessant 
draining  of  the  hard-earned  gains  of  every  labour- 
ing man  and  woman  to  satisfy  the  exactions  of  the 
Brahmans  for  priestly  services,  in  ways  and  for  oc- 
casions as  numerous  as  the  hours  of  every  man’s  life, 


32 


THE  HINDUS. 


and  with  a rigour  of  superstition  incredible  to  those 
who  have  not  themselves  been  not  merely  wit- 
nesses but  students  of  its  enormity;  and,  perhaps 
more  than  all,  its  apathetic,  death-like  influence, 
withering  and  destroying  all  enterprize,  improve- 
ment, and  hope  of  bettering  their  condition. 

The  literature  of  the  Indians  is  very  peculiar  in 
its  character,  nor  is  it  easy  to  form  an  accurate 
opinion  of  its  value.  Mr.  Colebrooke  has  given  a 
general  outline  or  analysis  of  their  writings  in  the 
Asiatic  Researches,  which  presents  them  in  a suf- 
ficiently favourable  light.  From  this  paper  a few 
particulars  may  be  quoted.  There  are  six  proper 
shastras,  in  which  all  knowledge,  divine  and  hu- 
man, is  said  to  be  comprehended.  These  are  the 
Yeda,  Upaveda,  Vedanga,  Purana,  Dherma,  and 
Dersana.  The  four  Vedas,  the  fountain  of  all 
knowledge,  treat  of  works,  faith,  and  worship. 
Some  of  these  are  of  very  ancient  origin,  being 
written  in  Sanscrit  so  obscure  and  concise  that 
modern  scholars  with  difficulty  understand  them. 
They  are  of  great  extent,  consisting  of  two  thou- 
sand sections,  with  many  hundred  branches  in  va- 
rious divisons  and  sub-divisions.  The  Tantra,  Man- 
tra, and  other  incantations,  which  are  very  nume- 
rous, belong  to  this  class.  The  commentaries  on  the 
Vedas  are  said  to  be  innumerable.  The  Upave- 
das,  or  sub-scriptures,  are  deduced  from  the  Vedas, 
and  treat  of  medicine,  music,  archery,  under  which 
the  whole  art  of  war  is  included,  architecture,  &c. 
Mr.  Colebrooke  says,  that  the  medical  books  con- 
tain much  useful  information  concerning  the  vir- 
tues of  Indian  roots  and  plants.  The  medical 
practice  of  the  Hindus  does  not  deserve  the  name 
of  a regular  science.  Three  of  the  six  Vedangas 
treat  of  Grammar,  a fourth  of  the  obscure  words  in 


THE  HINDUS. 


33 


the  Vedas,  a fifth  of  religious  ceremonies,  and  an- 
other of  the  whole  range  of  mathematics.  The 
Sanscrit  prosody  is  said  to  be  easy  and  beautiful, 
containing  all  the  measures  of  the  Greeks.  Astro- 
nomical works  in  the  Sanscrit  are  very  numerous, 
seventy-nine  of  them  being  specified  in  one  list. 
Subordinate  to  these  general  classes  are  the  three 
last  mentioned  of  the  proper  Shastras,  containing 
the  poems,  the  body  of  law,  and  the  philosophical 
treatises.  The  Ramayana  and  the  Mahabharatare 
the  principal  poems;  the  former  is  “a  complete 
epic  poem  on  one  continued,  interesting,  and  heroic 
action;”  the  latter  is  superior  in  its  reputation  for 
holiness.  The  eighteen  Puranas,  of  which  the 
Bhagawat,  or  life  of  Krishna,  is  the  last,  “contain 
ancient  traditions,  embellished  by  poetry,  or  dis- 
guised by  fables.”  The  system  of  Law  consists  of 
many  tracts  in  high  estimation,  of  which  the  most 
celebrated  is  the  Code  of  Menu,  on  which  there 
are  numerous  commentaries.  The  Dersana  or 
Philosophical  writings  are  also  very  numerous, 
and  are  explained  by  many  commentators.  The 
Vedanta  is  considered  analogous  to  the  Platonic, 
the  first  Nya.  ya  to  the  Peripatetic,  and  other  clas- 
ses to  corresponding  Greek  schools.  Besides  the 
Shastras,  or  sacred  writings,  there  are  books  for 
the  use  of  the  Sudras,  or  lowest  and  far  the  most 
numerous  class  of  the  Hindus,  but  the  paper  from 
which  these  notices  are  quoted,  does  not  give  a 
satisfactory  account  of  them,  nor  have  I elsewhere 
met  with  a description  of  them.  The  longest  life 
would  not  be  sufficient  for  the  perusal  of  these 
Shastras.  The  Puranas  alone  are  said  to  contain 
nearly  five  hundred  thousand  stanzas,  with  a mil- 
lion more,  probably,  in  the  other  works  men- 
tioned. 


4 


34 


THE  HINDUS. 


One  view  of  these  writings  possesses  great  prac- 
tical interest — it  is  that  all  are  regarded  as  sacred. 
Not  only  the  biographies  of  their  gods,  but  their 
works  on  law,  astronomy,  and  other  subjects,  are 
considered  of  divine  authority. 

Extensive  as  are  the  writings  of  the  Hindus, 
there  are  comparatively  few  learned  men  amongst 
them,  and  they  are  by  no  means  correct  general 
scholars;  and  their  acquirements  are  seldom  of 
much  practical  value.  Their  studies  have  the  ef- 
fect of  disciplining  their  faculties,  so  that  they  are 
often  acute  and  ready  reasoners.  The  great  body 
of  the  people,  however,  are  ignorant  in  the  ex- 
treme. They  are  debased  alike  by  their  religion 
and  their  poverty.  Their  religion  has  no  days  of 
instruction,  their  temples  have  no  preachers,  and 
their  poverty  leaves  no  time  for  the  cultivation  of 
the  mind.  Besides  these  causes  of  ignorance  is 
another  more  universal  and  powerful,  the  degraded 
condition  of  the  female  sex.  Prevented  both  by 
their  religion  and  their  social  usages  from  acquiring 
the  simplest  elements  of  written  knowledge,  never 
seen  in  the  schools,  neither  honoured  nor  cherished 
by  their  parents,  brothers,  or  husbands,  and  in  no 
respect  fitted  for  the  responsible  duties  which  de- 
volve upon  them,  they  are  incapable  of  teaching 
their  children  any  useful  lesson,  either  by  precept 
or  by  their  own  example.  And  thus,  the  mothers 
throughout  the  land  being  alike  ignorant  if  not  alike 
degraded,  the  children  grow  up  in  a great  measure 
untaught  and  vicious;  the  time  of  youth,  the  only 
season  of  leisure  to  most  Hindus,  passes  away 
without  instruction,  discipline,  or  improvement. 

The  religion  of  the  Hindus  is  a very  large  sub- 
ject; to  do  it  justice  would  require  a volume.  I 


THE  HINDUS. 


35 


shall  endeavour  to  present  merely  a few  notices 
and  remarks  of  a general  character  concerning  it. 

It  is  supposed  that  about  one  seventh  part  of  the 
Hindus  are  followers  of  the  false  prophet;  their 
faith  is  like  that  of  their  sect  every  where,  and  their 
practice  differs  but  little  from  that  of  their  heathen 
countrymen.  They  are  hardly  less  superstitious, 
nor  at  all  less  addicted  to  immoral  practices. 
Amongst  the  pagan  Hindus  a considerable  diver- 
sity of  sects  exists,  whose  religious  tenets  are  vari- 
ous and  often  contradictory.  The  Budhists  and 
the  Jains  hold  opinions  that  are  irreconcilable  with 
the  Brahmanical  forms  of  belief.  The  votaries  of 
the  latter  constitute  the  much  larger  part  of  the 
people. 

According  to  their  belief,  “ the  great  deity  Bralim 
remains  in  obscurity,  and  superstition  is  never 
allowed  to  profane  his  name,  which  is  always  kept 
clear  of  fiction.  Three  energies,  however,  the  cre- 
ating, preserving,  and  destroying,  are  embodied 
under  the  names  of  Brahma,  Vishnu,  and  Siva,  to 
each  of  whom  a female  or  passive  energy  is  at- 
tached. These  have  all  human  forms,  diversified 
by  the  imagination  in  various  ways;  and  as  the 
two  last  are  supposed  to  have  descended  many 
times,  each  avatar  or  incarnation  furnishes  a dis- 
tinct deity,  to  whom  worship  is  addressed.  Of 
the  three  specified,  Brahma  alone  has  no  incarna- 
tions, and  is  never  worshipped.  Besides  these 
three  principal  gods  there  is  a whole  pantheon  of 
minor  deities.  The  sea,  the  winds,  the  heavens, 
the  elements,  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars,  every  river, 

I fountain,  and  stream,  is  either  a deity  in  itself,  or 
has  a divinity  presiding  over  it,  nothing  being  done 
without  the  intervention  of  supernatural  power. 
Descending  still  lower,  there  are  myriads  of  demi- 


36 


THE  HINDUS. 


gods,  of  a most  extraordinary  description,  and  nu- 
merous beyond  the  powers  of  calculation.  A little 
red  paint  smeared  over  a stone,  a lump  of  clay,  or 
the  stump  of  a tree,  converts  it  into  a god,  wor- 
shipped by  the  lower  classes,  and  saluted  by  the 
upper  with  much  apparent  devotion.” 

This  extract  from  Hamilton’s  Gazetteer  pre- 
sents a succinct  sketch  of  the  objects  of  worship 
among  the  greater  part  of  the  Hindus,  and  it  pro- 
bably covers  the  whole  ground.  Some  writers  enu- 
merate seventeen  principal  deities ; the  whole  num- 
ber, composed  of  all  the  classes,  is  often  stated  at 
three  hundred  and  thirty  millions,  which,  we  may 
suppose,  is  a large  number  intended  to  convey  the 
idea  of  infinity.  It  is,  however,  doubtless  true  that 
in  India  the  gods  are  more  numerous  than  their 
worshippers. 

The  metaphysical  among  the  educated  classes 
will  describe  their  religion  as  a pure  theism,  ex- 
plaining away  what  seems  contrary  to  the  divine 
unity  in  the  number  of  gods  and  goddesses,  and 
putting  a spiritual  construction  on  what  is  gross  in 
the  actual  prevalence  of  idolatry;  and  they  will 
express  many  just  views  of  the  character  of  God. 
Others  hold  such  notions  as  are  but  atheism,  and 
others  more  numerous  are  gross  pantheists,  while 
the  mass  of  the  people,  incapable  of  refined  specu- 
lations, are  neither  more  nor  less  than  gross  idola- 
ters, worshipping  “lords  many  and  gods  many.” 

If  we  look  now  at  the  common  observances  of 
religion,  and  the  degree  of  attention  given  to  its 
worship,  we  must  consider  the  Hindus  a highly 
religious  people.  Nothing  is  undertaken,  no  event 
occurs,  hardly  an  hour  passes,  without  the  perform- 
ance of  religious  services.  These  are  sometimes 
very  simple,  perhaps  merely  the  reverent  lifting 


THE  HINDUS. 


37 


of  the  folded  hands  to  the  forehead;  sometimes, 
very  difficult  and  expensive,  such  as  prayers  and 
fastings,  repeated  bathings,  pilgrimages,  painful 
self  inflictions,  gifts  of  flowers,  rice,  and  money, 
sacrifices  of  goats,  bullocks,  and  formerly  of  hu- 
man life.  The  birth  of  a child,  giving  his  name, 
marriage,  engaging  in  business,  making  a journey, 
sickness,  death,  funeral  rites,  and  a thousand  other 
things,  are  the  occasions  for  performing  religious 
ceremonies ; and  as  the  Brahmans  alone  can  offici- 
ate and  are  always  paid  for  their  services  accord- 
ing to  the  utmost  measure  of  the  votary’s  ability, 
they  are  extremely  watchful  to  prevent  any  omis- 
sion or  neglect  of  ritual  duly.  It  has  been  well  as- 
certained that  the  rite  of  the  suttee,  or  self-immola- 
tion, was  strongly  urged  in  many  cases  on  poor 
widows  by  these  priests,  who  were  instigated  by 
the  mercenary  prospect  of  sharing  in  the  presents, 
which  were  always  made  by  surviving  friends  on 
such  occasions. 

There  are  numerous  religious  buildings,  or  tem- 
ples, of  a great  variety  in  their  structure  and  size, 
which  are  only  places  of  prayer  and  ritual  solem- 
nities, and  not  of  religious  instruction.  There  are 
no  regular  days  of  rest  and  religious  teaching,  but 
numerous  festivals  are  observed.  These  differ  in 
length  from  part  of  a day  to  several  weeks  ; they 
are  professedly  observed  by  the  followers  of  the 
god  in  whose  honour  they  are  held,  but  other  sects 
i often  unite  in  their  celebration,  and  they  are  usual- 
s ly  accompanied  with  great  frivolity  and  dissipa- 
v tion. 

it  Without  going  more  at  length  into  an  account  of 
i-  j this  religion,  I would  now  notice  its  defects  and 
s faults.  It  gives  no  correct  revelation  of  the  cha- 
i»  racier  and  will  of  God.  It  provides  no  atonement 


38 


THE  HINDUS. 


for  sin,  nor  any  motives  nor  means  of  purifying 
the  fountains  of  thought  and  affection  in  our  de- 
praved nature.  It  imposes  no  restraint  on  the 
wickedness  of  men.  It  yields  no  support  nor  any 
consolation  in  the  time  of  sickness,  calamity,  and 
bereavement.  It  sheds  no  light  on  the  grave,  opens 
no  door  of  hope  beyond  the  tomb.  It  is  thus  a 
religion  of  darkness,  cheerless,  gloomy,  full  of 
despair  to  the  soul  of  a sinful  man. 

It  is,  moreover,  worse  than  all  this.  We  have 
seen  its  oppressive  influence  on  the  temporal  con- 
dition of  the  people.  Besides  this,  it  is  most 
demoralizing.  It  authorizes  the  commission  of 
various  crimes,  amongst  which,  to  certain  classes, 
is  the  most  remorseless  murder;  see,  for  proof,  the 
work  published  by  the  British  India  Government, 
concerning  Thuggee.  The  gods  and  goddesses 
are  the  exemplars  of  every  vice  and  crime.  Their 
history  is  often  outrageously  shocking  to  every 
pure  mind,  and  so  is  their  worship.  Abandoned 
women  are  a part  of  the  establishment  connected 
with  many  temples;  dissolute  priests  abound,  and 
their  sacred  character  gives  them  greater  facilities 
for  gratifying  their  wishes,  than  other  vile  men 
enjoy.  Polygamy  prevails,  though  checked  by 
the  poverty  of  the  people ; and  it  is  lawful,  because 
the  gods  have  many  wives.  A priest  has  been 
known  to  have  sixty  wives,  married  for  their  dower, 
and  for  gratifying  his  own  base  passions.  Poor 
woman  is  degraded  to  a very  low  degree ; her  re- 
ligion never  inspires  her  mind  with  pure  aims,  nor 
gives  her  an  honourable  standing,  nor  opens  to  her 
a better  prospect  hereafter.  Little  truth,  upright- 
ness and  confidence  exist  in  business  transactions. 
It  is  almost  impossible  to  ascertain  the  merits  of 
cases  brought  before  the  English  rulers,  so  unscru- 


THE  HINDUS. 


39 


pulous  and  utterly  false  are  the  witnesses.  Part- 
ners in  the  same  shop  often  have  their  separate 
locks,  to  prevent  one  entering  unless  the  others  are 
also  present.  These  things,  and  many  such  like 
things,  in  themselves  most  evil,  and  not  the  less 
evil  because  flowing  fairly  from  fallen  human  na- 
ture, are  the  more  dreadful,  because  they  are  the 
offspring  of  religion,  the  imitation  by  men  of  the 
character  and  conduct  of  their  gods ! 

I am  well  aware  that  certain  writers  have  spo- 
ken more  favourably  of  the  Hindus,  but  I would 
ask  the  reader  to  distinguish  between  things  that 
differ.  There  is  much  in  the  manners  of  a Hindu, 
especially  in  his  respectful  deference  to  his  supe- 
riors, and  all  Europeans  are  immeasurably  his  su- 
periors, or  so  regarded  by  him,  that  is  certainly 
very  prepossessing  and  pleasing.  There  is  also 
amongst  themselves  commonly  the  entire  absence 
of  rude  and  violent  conduct,  and  between  persons 
of  the  same  station  in  life,  there  is  a beautiful 
courteousness  of  manner.  Their  habits  of  living, 
moreover,  are  remarkably  simple,  temperate,  and 
regular ; and  there  is  often  a touching  regard  for 
their  relations.  And  yet  these  things  have  their 
contraries,  especially  in  the  last  mentioned  particu- 
lar, for  you  often  see  the  aged  and  the  sick  exposed 
to  death  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  or  most  cru- 
elly neglected  at  home.  But  still,  it  must  be  con- 
ceded, and  I admit  most  cheerfully,  that  there  is 
much  to  admire  in  the  manners  of  the  Hindus,  and 
in  their  character  as  it  appears  to  a superficial  ob- 
server, especially  if  he  survey  them  from  an  eleva- 
ted position.  It  gives  me  pleasure  to  admit,  also, 
that  there  are  men  who  evince  a praiseworthy  re- 
gard to  their  engagements.  And  yet  I fully  agree 
with  those  writers  who  present  the  Hindu  charac- 


40  CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 

ter  in  darker  shades.  The  favourable  traits  just 
mentioned  have  misled  amiable  religious  men,  like 
Bishop  Heber,  whose  knowledge  of  the  native 
character,  as  it  appears  among  the  natives,  was  but 
limited ; and  these  same  things  may  have  convinced 
men,  not  themselves  acquainted  with  the  evil  of 
the  human  heart,  nor  of  its  offensiveness  to  God, 
that  the  Hindus  are  already  an  excellent,  if  not  a 
virtuous  people.  But  the  reader  of  these  pages, 
I trust,  will  form  his  opinion  of  the  statements 
brought  under  his  notice,  by  the  unerring  standard 
of  the  Divine  oracles.  And  in  their  light,  I fear 
not  to  claim  for  these  millions  of  heathen,  his  miost 
sincere  and  active  compassion.  No  people  more 
greatly  need  the  enlightening,  purifying,  and  ever 
living  influences  of  the  religion  of  the  Bible.* 

I now  return  to  the  mission,  undertaken  with 
the  humble  hope  of  promoting  the  best  interests  of 
this  people,  by  making  known  to  them  the  gospel 
of  the  grace  of  God. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 

North-western  provinces,  reasons  for  the  choice  of — Edu- 
cational movement — Authorities  friendly — Arrival  timely 
— Missionary  co-operation. 

After  carefully  weighing  the  information  wre  had 
received,  Mr.  Reed  and  myself  wrere  clear  in 
our  conviction  that  the  north-western  provinces 

* See  a paper  on  the  condition  of  the  heathen,  at  the 
cn  d of  the  volume,  Appendix  1. 


CHOICE  OF  A SIISSIONARY  FIELD.  41 

presented  the  best  field  of  labour,  in  which  to  be- 
gin our  efforts.  They  contain  a numerous  and 
hardy  population,  with  a better  climate  than  the 
lower  provinces,  and  there  is  a ready  access  to  the 
lower  ranges  of  the  Himalaya  mountains  in  case 
of  the  failure  of  health.  They  were  then,  and  they 
continue  to  be,  in  a great  measure  unoccupied  by 
the  missionury  institutions  of  other  bodies  of  Chris- 
tians. And  their  position  connects  them  with  other 
countries  in  which  no  efforts  have  yet  been  made 
to  introduce  the  Christian  religion.  The  Sikhs, 
to  whom  our  attention  at  first  was  specially  direct- 
ed, are  a distinct  people,  neither  Mahommedans 
nor  Pagans  in  their  religion,  though  their  manner 
oflife  differs  but  little  from  that  of  the  pagan  Hin- 
dus. They  inhabit  chiefly  the  Panjab,  but  many 
of  their  chiefs  live  on  the  south  side  of  the  Sutlej 
under  British  protection,  and  their  territories  are 
called  the  Protected  Sikh  States.  No  missionary 
establishment  had  ever  been  formed  for  their  bene- 
fit. A part  of  the  Scriptures  had  been  translated 
into  their  language,  the  Gurmukhi,  by  the  Seram- 
pore  Society. 

These  general  considerations  appeared  of  suffi- 
cient weight  to  authorize  our  deciding  on  this 
part  of  the  country,  although,  we  were  aware,  it 
would  require  a tedious  journey  and  considerable 
expense  to  reach  any  given  point  in  it.  But  we  con- 
sidered that  these  were  disadvantages  which  some 
missionaries  would  have  to  surmount,  if  the  means 
of  grace  should  ever  be  established  among  those 
destitute  people ; and  it  was  deemed  moreover, 
highly  important  to  choose  a large  field,  and  one 
sufficiently  removed  from  the  missions  of  other 
Societies,  so  that  there  might  be  ample  room  for 
extended  efforts.  We  had  the  happiness  of  find- 


42 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


ing  that  our  choice  was  highly  approved  by  our 
Calcutta  advisers,  amongst  whom  we  had  the  pri- 
vilege now  of  consulting  with  the  Rev.  Dr.  Corrie, 
the  friend  of  Henry  Marlyn,  who  afterwards  be- 
came Bishop  of  Madras.  He  was  absent  in  the 
Upper  Provinces  on  our  arrival,  where  he  had  been 
for  many  years  stationed  as  a Chaplain,  but  had 
now  returned,  and  we  accounted  it  no  small  favour 
to  be  allowed  to  see  so  much  of  one  who  was  not 
less  beloved  for  his  amiable  and  pure  character  as 
a gentleman,  than  revered  and  venerated  for  his 
excellence  and  faithfulness  as  a Christian  minister. 

Besides  the  general  reasons  mentioned  above, 
there  was  just  at  that  time  a movement  to  promote 
the  spread  of  the  English  language  and  learning  in 
some  of  the  important  cities  in  those  Upper  Pro- 
vinces. English  Colleges  had  been  established  by 
the  government  at  Agra  and  Delhi,  and  instruction 
of  a similar  kind  was  wanted  at  some  other  places, 
one  of  which  was  Lodiana.  This  was  the  frontier 
post  then  occupied  by  the  British  on  the  north- 
west, and  a town  of  some  twenty  thousand  or 
twenty-five  thousand  people,  whose  numbers  were 
rapidly  increasing.  It  contained  a number  of  Af- 
ghans and  Cashmerians  in  addition  to  the  Sikhs 
and  Hindus.  The  Afghans  were  from  one  thou- 
sand to  two  thousand  in  number,  and  were  chiefly 
the  retainers  of  two  exiled  kings,  who  after  a variety 
of  sad  fortunes,  one  of  them  having  been  cruelly 
deprived  of  his  sight,  had  taken  refuge  under  the 
protection  of  the  British,  and  had  been  living  at 
Lodiana  for  nearly  twenty  years,  receiving  a large 
annual  pension  from  the  generosity  of  the  East  India 
Company.  One  of  these  kings  is  now  on  the  throne 
of  Caubul,  so  various  are  the  changes  of  Eastern 
politics!  The  Cashmerians  were  more  numerous. 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD.  43 

They  had  been  driven  from  their  homes  by  a famine 
and  by  the  oppression  of  the  Sikhs,  to  whom  their 
beautiful  valley  was  in  subjection,  and  several  thou- 
sands of  them  were  now  following  their  various 
occupations,  chiefly  that  of  weaving,  at  Lodiana. 
From  these  classes,  and  from  the  Hindus,  a num- 
ber of  scholars  could  be  procured  to  attend  an  Eng- 
lish school.  Some  of  the  Sikh  chiefs,  also,  were 
anxious  to  have  their  sons  acquainted  with  Eng- 
lish, and  an  Afghan  chief,  living  west  of  the  Indus, 
had  actually  sent  his  son  to  the  care  of  the  Politi- 
cal Agent  at  Lodiana  for  the  same  purpose — an 
event  so  singular  amongst  the  people  of  that  part 
of  the  world,  that  he  received  credit,  I presume, 
for  being  influenced  by  a desire  to  acquire  politi- 
cal knowledge  for  his  own  use,  rather  than  the  in- 
structions of  a school  for  his  son.  This  desire  for 
an  English  education  was  not  confined  to  Lodiana, 
but  existed  at  Amballa  and  other  places  in  the 
North-western  provinces.  It  was  understood  that 
the  government  had  under  consideration  the  ques- 
tion of  extending  their  educational  system  so  as  to 
embrace  Amballa  and  Lodiana,  both  in  the  Pro- 
tected Sikh  States.  It  was  indeed  highly  probable 
that  some  secular  institution  of  learning  would  soon 
be  formed  at  one  or  both  of  those  cities. 

Our  Calcutta  advisers  rightly  deemed  it  of  great 
importance,  that  in  the  efforts  about  to  be  made, 
the  Christian  religion  should  not  be  divorced  from 
education,  as  is  unhappily  the  case  in  the  government 
Colleges  and  most  of  the  schools  for  English  learn- 
ing in  India,  whose  influence,  therefore,  only  tends 
to  the  overthrow  of  the  existing  religion  of  the 
country,  without  at  all  introducing  the  Christian 
faith  in  its  stead.  And  they  and  ourselves  both 
considered  it  advisable  to  connect  our  proceedings, 


44 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


in  the  first  instance,  if  possible,  with  this  Educa- 
tional movement.  Having  decided  on  those  pro- 
vinces as  our  sphere  of  duty,  it  seemed  extremely 
desirable  to  enter  on  our  vocation,  by  taking  the 
lead  in  the  efforts  for  the  instruction  of  the  people, 
thus  gaining  effectual  access  to  the  minds  of  influ- 
ential classes  without  awakening  their  religious 
prejudices,  which  were  represented  as  peculiarly 
strong  in  provinces  so  lately  brought  under  British 
rule.  The  same  consideration,  though  with  dimin- 
ished force,  applied  to  our  intercourse  at  first  with 
the  English  gentlemen  in  charge  of  the  govern- 
ment of  those  distant  provinces.  Education  was 
common  ground  for  them  and  ourselves  to  stand 
on,  until  they  could  become  acquainted  with  our 
views  and  plans  of  proceeding.  For  it  should  be 
remembered  that  we  were  the  first  American  mis- 
sionaries who  had  attempted  to  form  stations  up 
the  country,  and  our  character,  object,  and  mode 
of  proceeding  were  all  to  be  developed.*  If  favour- 
able impressions  should  be  made  by  the  pioneers 
of  our  enterprise,  it  would  greatly  conduce  to  the 
comfort  and  success  of  both  themselves  and  their 
future  associates.  Indeed,  in  the  Protected  Sikh 
Slates  almost  everything  depended,  in  the  first  ef- 
forts, on  the  friendly  countenance  of  the  political 
agents  and  other  English  gentlemen.  In  these  cir- 
cumstances the  kind  offices  of  Mr.  Trevelyan, 
whose  name  I have  already  mentioned,  were  in- 
valuable. He  was  one  of  the  most  able  and  suc- 
cessful supporters  of  the  change  of  policy  in  the 
Government  patronage  of  education,  whereby  the 
antiquated  and  cumbrous  systems  of  oriental  error 
were  made  to  give  place  to  the  liberal  and  useful 
branches  of  European  knowledge  ; and  the  educa- 
* See  Appendix  II. 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


45 


tional  movement  in  the  north-west  had  already 
found  in  him  a warm  and  efficient  advocate.  His 
official  and  friendly  relations,  moreover,  with  the 
officers  of  the  government  in  the  Sikh  States,  as 
well  as  his  position  in  the  Cabinet,  to  use  our 
Washington  phrase,  were  precisely  those  which 
rendered  his  cordial  advocacy  of  our  object  of  the 
greatest  service.  We  should  have  been  blind,  in- 
deed, not  to  have  seen  and  recognized  in  these 
things  the  kind  interposition  of  Him,  in  whose 
cause  we  were  engaged,  and  who  thus  gave  us 
favour  in  the  sight  of  his  servants,  the  rulers  of 
the  land. 

This  extended  account  will  not  be  considered 
too  long,  when  the  reader  adverts  to  the  apprehen- 
sion which  existed  amongst  many  persons  as  to 
our  reception  by  the  British  authorities.  We  had 
feared  that  difficulties  might  be  interposed  to  pre- 
vent our  proceeding  to  the  interior.  Some  of  our 
countrymen,  twenty  years  before,  had  been  requir- 
ed by  the  men  then  in  power  to  withdraw  from 
the  territories  of  the  East  India  Company.  And 
so  little  was  known  at  home  of  the  favourable 
change  in  the  administration  of  the  India  govern- 
ment, and  of  the  liberal  and  enlightened  policy  of 
Lord  W.  C.  Bentinck,  the  Governor  General  at 
the  time  of  our  arrival,  that  it  was  consider- 
ed doubtful  by  some  of  our  best  informed  men 
whether  we  should  be  allowed  to  form  a settle- 
ment in  the  interior.  I recollect  particularly  an 
expression  of  opinion  to  this  effect  by  one  of  the 
Secretaries  of  our  oldest  Missionary  Society.  In 
England  there  is  often  much  complaint  by  those 
connected  with  India  affairs,  of  the  want  of  infor- 
mation and  the  apathy  of  the  community  at  large 
in  regard  to  everything  Indian.  In  the  United 


46 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


States,  for  obvious  reasons,  there  is  still  less  infor- 
mation and  interest,  but  “the  times  of  this  igno- 
rance,” we  may  hope,  are  passing  away,  and 
shall  be  succeeded  by  a lively  concern,  especially 
amongst  religious  people,  in  everything  affecting 
the  welfare  of  so  large  a portion  of  the  human 
family.  In  no  respect  were  our  misapprehensions 
and  misgivings  more  entirely  without  foundation, 
and  more  happily  removed,  than  in  our  obtaining 
readily  the  permission  of  the  Governor  General  in 
Council  to  proceed  to  the  places  we  had  mention- 
ed in  our  petition,  in  which  we  had  stated  concise- 
ly but  clearly  our  object,  and  requested  liberty  to 
reside  in  the  north-western  provinces.  It  was  con- 
sidered advisable  in  the  first  instance  to  send  up 
such  a petition,  in  order  to  preclude  all  suspicion 
as  to  our  character,  and  plans,  and  to  remove  any 
possible  hinderance  from  the  path  of  those  who 
should  follow  us.  For  the  favourable  presenting 
of  this  paper,  we  were  indebted  to  the  gentleman, 
whose  kindness  I have  already  spoken  of.  We 
can  now  look  to  a missionary  home  in  India  with 
no  more  apprehension  on  this  point  than  we  should 
contemplate  a removal  to  one  of  our  own  states.  It 
is  therefore  less  easy  to  understand  the  solicitude 
that  was  then  felt  on  this  subject.  I should  not  dis- 
miss this  point,  without  mentioning  the  view  im- 
pressed on  my  mind  by  Lord  W.  C.  Bentinck’s  ad- 
ministration of  the  Supreme  Government  in  India. 
It  was  his  high  honour  to  suppress  the  horrible  rite  of 
the  suttee,  to  encourage  the  study  ofuseful  knowledge 
in  the  government  colleges,  to  abolish  the  odious  and 
oppressive  system  of  transit-duties,  and  to  manifest  a 
steady  regard  to  the  principle,  itself  not  more  benevo- 
lent than  true,  that  the  present  rulers  of  India  have 
been  entrusted  with  the  power  to  control  the  desti- 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


47 


nies  of  its  myriads  of  people,  only  in  order  to  pro- 
mote their  best  advance  in  knowledge  and  general 
improvement.  And  it  would  be  extremely  ungrate- 
ful in  me  not  to  acknowledge  at  the  same  time  our 
obligations  to  Lady  William  Bentinck,  for  her 
Christian  favour  towards  our  object.  Her  influ- 
ence was  given  to  promote  it  with  a kindness 
worthy  of  herself,  and  in  a manner  as  considerate 
as  it  was  effective.  More  I ought  not  to  say;  less 
with  justice  to  my  own  feelings,  I cannot.  I have 
got  in  advance  of  the  order  of  time  in  the  narrative, 
however,  and  must  return  from  this  digression. 

Our  arrival  in  India  appeared  now  to  be  most 
seasonable.  If  we  had  arrived  at  Calcutta  at  an 
earlier  period,  those  special  providences  which 
seemed  to  open  a door  before  us  at  Lodiana  had 
not  then  occurred,  and  we  should  probably  have 
been  led  to  choose  some  other  part  of  the  country 
as  the  scene  of  our  endeavours.  If  we  had  arrived 
one  year  later,  we  should  doubtless  have  found  the 
ground  pre-occupied ; some  secular  institution  of 
learning  with  its  influences  would  have  so  com- 
pletely blocked  up  the  way,  that  it  might  not  have 
appeared  practicable  to  form  a religious  establish- 
ment. We  could  not  doubt  that  we  were  under 
the  guidance  of  Him,  who  orders  all  things  accord- 
ing to  the  counsel  of  his  will,  and  who  ever  goes 
before  his  people,  disposing  their  way  so  as  to 
promote  their  best  usefulness  and  his  own  highest 
! glory. 

Nor  could  we  fail  to  acknowledge  with  grati- 
tude the  kind  and  welcome  reception  extended  to 
us  by  our  English  missionary  brethren.  The  Cal- 
cutta and  Serampore  missionaries,  and  those  whom 
we  afterwards  met  at  other  places,  of  every  deno- 
mination, not  only  gave  us  a cordial  welcome  as 


48 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


co-labourers  with  themselves,  but  cheerfully  grant- 
ed us  every  information  and  advice,  often  greatly 
needed  by  persons  so  inexperienced  as  we  were, 
and  always  valuable  from  their  long  acquaintance 
with  the  country  and  people.  The  remembrance 
of  much  pleasant  Christian  intercourse  with  them, 
often  awakens  many  tender  and  sacred  feelings. 
There  is  surely  something  as  delightful  as  it  is 
strange  in  the  bond  of  brotherhood,  which  unites 
all  the  sincere  followers  of  Christ.  Here  were 
Englishmen,  Scotchmen,  Germans,  and  Ameri- 
cans ; Episcopalians,  Independents,  Baptists,  and 
Presbyterians,  dwelling  together  in  Christian  char- 
ity, labouring  together,  not  perhaps  with  perfect 
harmony  of  views,  for  that  is  reserved  for  a better 
state,  but  with  mutual  confidence  and  esteem  ; not 
laying  aside  their  respective  peculiarities,  but  so 
strongly  animated  by  a common  spirit  and  a com- 
mon aim  that  their  various  differences  did  not  pre- 
vent their  respecting  each  other,  and  seeking  each 
other’s  highest  usefulness.  May  this  spirit  of  for- 
bearance and  of  love  ever  dwell  in  the  hearts  of  all 
missionaries ! 

In  the  review  therefore  of  the  many  favourable 
circumstances  under  which  our  missionary  course 
was  commenced  in  India,  it  were  not  only  ingrati- 
tude, but  blindness  in  the  extreme,  not  to  recognize 
the  hand  of  God  in  thus  prospering  our  way.  And 
the  persuasion  that  His  presence  and  blessing  were 
indeed  with  us,  proved  our  support  and  our  ground 
of  hope  in  many  dark  and  trying  hours. 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


49 


CHAPTER  V. 

EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 

Death  of  Mrs.  Lowrie — Decision  to  remain  at  Calcutta  till 
the  rainy  season — Study  of  the  language — Missionary 
efforts,  three  kinds — Mr.  Reed’s  illness  and  return. 

It  was  but  a few  weeks  after  our  arrival  at  Cal- 
cutta that  we  were  called  to  bow  in  humble  sub- 
mission to  the  will  of  God,  in  what  was  to  me  a 
very  distressing  dispensation.  My  wife’s  health 
was  by  no  means  firm  on  leaving  the  United  States, 
but  her  medical  friends  thought  her  going  to  a 
warmer  and  less  changeable  climate  would  prove 
decidedly  favourable  in  restoring  her  strength. 
During  the  voyage,  however,  she  became  gradually 
weaker,  and  before  we  reached  Calcutta,  it  was 
apparent  that  her  days  would  soon  be  numbered. 
She  was  herself  the  first  to  perceive  the  true  nature 
of  her  illness ; she  calmly  prepared  herself  for  its 
fatal  result,  and  she  endeavoured  to  prepare  our 
minds  for  the  hour  of  parting.  Never  have  I 
known  any  person  in  similar  circumstances,  whose 
mind  was  kept  more  perfectly  in  peace,  and  whose 
prevailing  desire  was  stronger  than  her’s  “ to  de- 
part and  to  be  with  Christ.”  With  a blessed 
Christian  hope,  she  departed  this  life  on  the  21st 
November.  It  is  not  desirable  to  give  an  extended 
notice  here  of  one  who  was  greatly  beloved,  as 
her  former  pastor,  the  Rev.  A.  G.  Fairchild,  was 
kind  enough  to  prepare  a small  volume  of  her  me- 
moirs, which  has  met  with  much  acceptance,  hav- 
ing passed  through  several  Editions,  and  which, 
there  is  reason  to  believe,  has  rendered  good  ser- 
5 


50 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


vice  to  the  cause  to  which  she  had  devoted  her 
life.  Her  remains  now  rest  in  the  Scottish  Burial 
Ground,  Calcutta. 

I have  forborne  to  speak  of  my  own  feelings  in 
this  time  of  deep  affliction.  There  are  dispensa- 
tions in  the  lives  of  most  men,  whose  desolating 
severity  no  language  can  describe.  There  are 
hours  of  cold  despair,  which  nature  could  not  long 
endure,  and  which  the  blessed  Gospel  can  best 
illumine  and  change  into  resignation.  The  sup- 
port of  our  holy  religion  was  graciously  vouch- 
safed, as  I trust,  to  myself  and  my  companions  in 
this  season  of  trial ; and  though  the  early  removal 
of  one  who  appeared  so  well  fitted  for  usefulness 
was  a dark  event,  we  were  assured  that  we  should 
sorrow  not  as  those  who  have  no  hope,  that  we 
should  weep  only  for  ourselves  and  for  the  hea- 
then, and  that  we  should  know  hereafter,  as  we 
could  believe  now,  that  infinite  kindness  and  wis- 
dom had  been  displayed  in  our  calamity. 

A week  or  two  before  this  mournful  event,  it  had 
been  agreed  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Reed  should  pro- 
ceed alone  to  the  station  we  had  concluded  to 
occupy,  and  they  had  made  some  progress  in  their 
preparation  for  the  journey.  But  on  further  re- 
flection it  was  thought  better  to  delay  their  de- 
parture. It  was  then  evident  that  Mrs.  Lowrie 
could  not  linger  long  amongst  us,  and  they  with 
the  kindest  consideration  of  our  feelings  did  not 
wish  to  leave  us  alone  in  the  approaching  hour  of 
death.  Besides  this  it  was  urged  by  our  friends 
in  Calcutta  that  the  river  at  that  season  was  low, 
and  the  winds  adverse,  so  that  it  would  be  a very 
tedious  and  difficult  voyage  to  ascend  it.  And  as 
the  hot  winds  would  prevail  in  the  upper  provinces 
before  they  could  finish  the  land  part  of  their  route, 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


51 


it  was  deemed  better  to  postpone  their  journey.  It 
was  therefore  finally  concluded  that  they  should 
remain  at  Calcutta  until  the  next  rainy  season, 
and  then  I could  proceed  with  them  ; in  the  mean- 
time we  could  prosecute  the  study  of  the  native 
language.  If  they  had  gone  agreeably  to  our  first 
decision,  I have  often  endeavoured  to  imagine 
what  would  have  been  the  probable  subsequent 
history  of  our  mission.  It  has  been  well  remarked, 
that  “ we  do  not  know  what  are  the  small,  nor  what 
the  great  events  of  our  lives;”  sometimes  those 
which  appear  smallest  are  yet  attended  with  the 
gravest  consequences.  If  Mr.  Reed  had  pro- 
ceeded, possibly  his  valuable  life  might  have  been 
greatly  prolonged  ; and  yet  the  journey,  instead  of 
proving  beneficial  might  have  rendered  his  days 
fewer  in  number.  One  thing  has  seemed  not  im- 
probable, if  he  had  proceeded  with  his  wife  as  his 
only  companion,  that,  owing  to  the  length  of  the 
journey,  and  the  difficulty  of  making  it  with  so 
little  acquaintance  with  the  people  and  their  ways 
as  we  then  possessed,  which  would  of  course  have 
been  much  more  serious  to  a married  man  than  to 
one  who  had  but  himself  to  provide  for.  my  ex- 
cellent associate  might  have  been  induced  to  stop 
at  some  of  the  many  important  places  much  nearer 
Calcutta,  which  were  not  less  in  want  of  Mission- 
ary services  than  Lodiana  and  other  places,  in  the 
far  northwest.  I am  sure  he  would  have  been 
strongly  urged  to  occupy  some  of  these  stations; 
while,  for  myself,  I might  have  been  strongly 
tempted,  by  deep  feelings  of  sorrow  and  not  less 
by  wretched  health,  to  return  to  the  land  of  my 
fathers.  Thus  it  might  easily  have  happened,  not 
to  say  that  it  probably  would,  that  the  missionary 
efforts  of  our  Church  in  India  would  have  been 


52 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


undertaken  under  widely  different  circumstances 
from  what  eventually  occurred.  Nor  have  I any 
doubt,  having  now  the  history  of  nearly  ten  years 
to  confirm  the  opinion,  that  our  first  position  was 
on  many  accounts  preferable  to  any  other,  as  a 
point  from  which  to  commence  our  efforts.  Other 
cities  had  a larger  population,  and  could  be  reached 
in  less  time,  and  at  less  expense,  but  at  no  other 
could  more  favourable  introducing  influences  have 
been  enjoyed;  at  no  other  could  our  position  have 
been  more  distinctly  defined,  nor  our  character 
and  object  more  accurately  estimated  by  the  foreign 
residents  of  the  Upper  Provinces;  at  no  other 
were  we  less  likely  to  find  ourselves  labouring  “ in 
another  man’s  line  of  things  made  ready  to  our 
hand,”  or  to  occupy  ground  that  other  bodies  of 
Christians  would  shortly  cultivate;  and,  not  to 
insist  on  the  important  consideration  of  health,  no 
other  place  was  then  nor  is  now  more  commanding 
in  ils  relations  to  other  and  not  less  dark  regions 
of  the  earth,  in  its  facilities  for  acquiring  a number 
of  the  languages  chiefly  spoken  in  those  parts,  and 
in  the  access  afforded  to  people  whose  character  if 
brought  under  Christian  influences,  and  whose 
geographical  situation,  would  better  enable  them  to 
spread  far  and  wide  the  knowledge  of  the  true  re- 
ligion. 

After  my  companions  had  relinquished  the  plan 
of  proceeding  immediately  up  the  country,  we 
agreed  to  take  a house  for  the  next  seven  months 
in  Howrah,  across  the  Hoogley  from  Calcutta; 
and  our  plan  was  to  devote  our  attention  to  the 
character  and  usages  of  the  people,  the  best  plans 
of  missionary  labour  amongst  them,  having  at  that 
city  almost  every  plan  under  our  view,  and  par- 
ticularly to  the  acquisition  of  the  native  language. 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


53 


As  soon  as  the  requisite  arrangements  were  made 
we  procured  a native  teacher,  and  commenced 
studying  the  language.  This  must  be  the  first  and 
highest  duty  of  the  newly  arrived  missionary. 
Without  this  knowledge  he  will  probably  become 
discontented,  and  he  assuredly  cannot  be  useful  in 
the  highest  degree.  It  is  a very  unsatisfactory 
plan  to  depend  on  interpreters,  and  it  is  never 
adopted  by  missionaries  in  India,  unless  for  a short 
time  while  they  are  learning  the  language  them- 
selves. This  study  must  engage  the  main  labour 
indeed  of  every  missionary,  until  he  is  able  to 
speak  the  language  with  ease.  And  it  will  be  well 
for  him  if  he  have  the  advice  and  aid  of  missionary 
associates,  already  acquainted  with  the  particular 
dialect  which  he  undertakes  to  acquire.  For  want 
of  this  aid,  we  met  with  considerable  embarrass- 
ment; our  Calcutta  missionary  friends  speaking 
the  Bengali,  and  not  the  up-country  dialects,  and 
our  Hindustani  teacher  being  able  to  give  us  little 
more  assistance  than  to  teach  us  the  true  pronun- 
ciation. In  this  study,  however,  almost  every  thing 
depends  on  one’s  own  efforts.  And  while  a close 
and  patient  attention  should  be  given  to  books,  such 
as  grammars,  dictionaries,  and  approved  authors, 
it  is  not  less  necessary  to  mingle  freely  with  the 
people,  and  thus  acquire  a practical  readiness  of 
speech,  and  of  hearing  too,  for  the  natives  utter 
their  words  very  rapidly  and  almost  inarticulately. 
Study  and  practice  must  go  hand  in  hand.  If  a 
missionary  would  feel  completely  at  home  as  a 
ready  Hindu  speaker,  he  must  spend  much  of  his 
time  exclusively  among  the  natives,  while  he  can- 
not become  an  accurate  and  thorough  scholar  with- 
out long  continued  study  of  the  best  authors,  and 
without  habits  of  composition  in  writing  the  lan- 


54 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


guage.  A mistake  to  which  one  is  liable,  and  by 
which  we  were  hindered  in  our  progress,  is  often 
that  of  being  too  purely  students.  One  of  the 
missionaries  now  in  India  has  presented  this  point 
graphically  in  a paragraph,  which  fully  supports 
this  suggestion.  “ Many  appear  to  have  com- 
menced with  the  idea  that  they  must  stick  to  their 
books,  and  attempt  little  or  nothing  until  they  are 
masters  of  the  language.  Perhaps  they  start  out 
when  they  think  they  can  talk  pretty  well;  of 
course  they  are  disappointed,  and  somewhat  dis- 
couraged by  their  failure.  They  slip  back  into 
their  study,  and  at  once  jump  to  the  resolution  of 
the  fool  in  the  Greek  fable,  that  he  would  never 
venture  into  the  water  again  until  he  had  learned 
to  swim.  Those  who  have  acted  on  the  other 
principle  have  uniformly,  I believe,  become  the 
earliest  and  best  preachers  in  the  native  language.” 
While  we  were  thus  employed,  we  did  not 
neglect  to  make  ourselves  acquainted  with  the 
plans  of  labour  adopted  by  the  missionaries  in 
Calcutta.  We  enjoyed  capital  opportunities  of 
profiting  by  their  experience,  and  as  the  result  of 
our  inquiries,  I insert  an  extract  from  our  letter  to 
the  Secretary  of  the  Society,  the  Rev.  E.  P.  Swift, 
D.  D.,  under  date  of  April  24th  1834.  The  views 
given  below  have  been  supported  by  later  and  long- 
er experience. 

Perhaps  the  direct  efforts  of  missionaries  may 
be  reduced  to  three  classes;  Preaching  the  Gos- 
pel to  many  or  few,  as  opportunity  occurs,  and  in 
whatever  way  circumstances  permit;  Preparation 
of  Books,  including  especially  the  translation  of 
the  Sacred  Scriptures  and  the  distribution  of  them ; 
and  the  Establishment  and  Superintendence  of 
Schools.  A single  missionary  may  engage  more 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


55 


or  less  in  all  these  ways  of  doing  good,  if  he  have 
the  requisite  talents,  health,  and  grace;  but  prob- 
ably his  labours  would,  in  ordinary  circumstances, 
be  more  efficient,  if  devoted  chiefly  to  one  of  these 
departments.  All  these  modes  are  open  to  our 
choice.  As  to  the  first,  we  have  been  able  to  hear 
of  only  one  missionary  that  has  ever  gone  among 
the  Sikhs,  or  into  the  Protected  Sikh  States ; and 
he  went  only  on  a short  tour,  and  was  not  acquaint- 
ed with  the  language  principally  spoken.  In  re- 
gard to  the  second,  the  only  books  in  the  Panjabi 
dialect  are  a translation  of  some  parts  of  the  Bible, 
and  a small  grammar  of  the  language,  both  said  to  be 
very  defective ; at  least,  we  have  not  yet  heard  of  any 
other  books,  such  as  a missionary  society  would 
prepare,  nor  indeed  of  any  kind.  And  as  to  schools, 
we  believe  there  is  not,  and  never  has  been  one, 
under  European  or  Christian  direction,  among  the 
Sikhs.  There  is  one  at  Sabathu  among  the  Hill 
people,  not  under  missionary  direction,  nor  of  high 
order,  which  succeeds  well.  The  native  schools 
throughout  the  country  are  of  no  value  in  any 
point  of  view,  except  as  to  the  mere  rudiments  of 
reading  and  writing;  and  even  these  are  taught  to 
very  few. 

“We  have,  therefore,  Dear  Brother,  the  entire 
field  before  us,  unoccupied,  unattempted.  It  is 
indeed  an  inspiring  thought,  that  our  Society  has 
the  prospect  of  beginning  all  that  shall  yet  be 
done  in  communicating  the  blessings  of  science  and 
religion  to  millions.  May  the  Lord  still  prepare 
the  way  and  prosper  the  efforts  you  make  ! 

“It  has  been  a matter  of  anxious  thought  what 
shall  be  the  system  of  education  which  we  should 
attempt.  As  to  preaching,  and  in  respect  to  books, 
it  is  but  little  we  can  do  until  we  have  learned  the 


56 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


language But  to  superintend  a native  school, 

we  mean  one  taught  by  native  teachers,  and  in  the 
native  language,  a slighter  acquaintance  with  the 
language  is  required,  than  is  necessary  in  preach- 
ing. In  teaching  an  English  school,  the  mission- 
ary might  begin  almost  immediately  after  his  loca- 
tion. Some  diversity  of  sentiment  exists  as  to  the 
prominence  which  should  be  given  to  education  in 

English One  great  object  should  be  to  train 

up,  by  the  Lord’s  blessing  and  grace,  a race  of  na- 
tive preachers.  To  the  former  object  (though  to 
a certain  extent  it  should,  and  we  hope  will,  re- 
ceive our  attention)  our  number  is  quite  inade- 
quate. It  must,  indeed,  be  manifest,  that  the 
Church  cannot  send  forth  a sufficient  number  of 
missionaries  to  educate  the  entire  population  in  a 
proper  manner.  The  men,  suitable  in  qualifica- 
tions and  circumstances,  are  not  to  be  had.  More- 
over, it  would  be  at  a vast  expense  of  money,  of 
time,  and  of  life,  that  that  plan  could  be  carried  in- 
to execution.  But  all  concur,  that  the  best  plan  is 
to  train  up  native  preachers,  by  sending  forth  a 
sufficient  number  of  persons  to  conduct  the  sys- 
tem by  which  they  are  to  be  prepared. 

“ Persuaded  that  yourself  and  the  Committee  will 
fully  accord  with  these  views,  though  so  imper- 
fectly presented,  we  proceed  to  mention  directly, 
but  briefly,  the  considerations  which  induce  us  to 
think,  that  English  education  should  be  made 
prominent.  Here  it  will  be  recollected,  that  our 
chief  object  in  education  is  to  prepare  native  min- 
isters who  should  be  possessed  of  all  the  know- 
ledge necessary  to  understand,  explain,  and  en- 
force the  meaning  of  the  Sacred  Volume.  Any 
other  kind  of  ministers  would  be  of  little  service. 
But  this  knowledge  does  not  exist  in  their  lan- 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


57 


guage.  Shall  we  then  endeavour  to  translate  all 
the  store  of  English  Theology  into  Panjabi;  or 
shall  we  educate  young  men  in  the  English  lan- 
guage, and  spread  before  them  the  vast  treasures 
of  our  Biblical,  Systematic,  and  Practical  Works? 
The  former  plan  is  much  the  most  expensive  of 
the  two,  and  much  the  least  practicable.  All  the 
missionaries  in  India  could  not  accomplish  the  for- 
mer, though  aided  by  the  funds  of  all  the  existing 
missionary  societies.  The  latter  plan  is  simple, 
and,  with  the  Divine  blessing,  may  be  carried  into 
effect  by  a few  individuals.  It  is  indeed  only  ap- 
plying to  a heathen  land  the  principles  recognized 
by  our  beloved  Church  concerning  our  ministers, 
though  with  greatly  increased  force  of  application 
in  a heathen  land.  English  will  become  to  this 
country,  what  the  Latin  was  to  our  forefathers — 
the  learned  language  of  the  people.  And  it  is  wor- 
thy of  special  notice  by  every  observer  of  Provi- 
dence in  this  land,  that  just  at  the  time  when  many 
natives  are  wishing  to  acquire  English,  the  Sanscrit, 
Arabic,  and  Persian,  as  if  by  common  consent,  are 
beginning  to  be  laid  on  the  shelf.  The  former  con- 
tains all  that  is  good,  though  with  much  that  is  bad ; 
the  latter  contains  almost  unmixed  evil.  So  far  as 
there  is  any  experience  on  this  subject,  it  decidedly 
confirms  this  statement.  We  may  further  men- 
tion, concerning  this  matter,  that,  in  addition  to  its 
being  the  only  way  of  preparing  suitable  ministers, 
this  kind  of  effort  does  not  prevent  the  missionary 
from  preaching,  or  preparing  books,  according  to 
the  measure  of  his  time  and  talents ; while  it  seems 
peculiarly  recommended  to  our  notice  in  this  land, 
where  Europeans  and  Americans  cannot  engage  in 
preaching  the  gospel,  nor  perhaps  in  any  kind  of 
duty,  but  at  considerable  hazard,  exposure,  and 
6 


58 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


brevity  of  life.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  explain, 
that  we  do  not  entertain  the  sentiments  expressed 
above,  to  the  exclusion  of  wishes  and  purposes  for 
both  common  and  female  education;  but  we  think 
it  expedient  to  present  them  thus  at  length,  because 
it  is  probable  this  will  be  our  first  kind  of  labour; 
as  we  can  commence  soon  after  we  reach  the  scene 
of  operation.  We  think  we  shall  possess  encour- 
aging prospects  as  to  both  the  other  kinds  of  in- 
struction.” 

During  the  latter  part  of  the  cold  season,  Mr. 
Reed  was  subject  at  times  to  a slight  cough,  though 
as  his  general  health  was  good,  it  gave  us  but  little 
alarm.  After  some  weeks,  however,  it  assumed 
such  a regular  character  as  to  awaken  our  serious 
concern,  and  medical  advice  was  obtained,  which, 
though  not  of  a decided  character,  by  no  means 
removed  our  fears.  In  the  course  of  a few  weeks, 
it  became  evident  that  his  disease  was  the  con- 
sumption. No  means  were  now  left  untried  to 
avert  the  disease,  but  it  was  all  in  vain ; his  strength 
gradually  declined,  and  at  length  all  hope  of  a tinal 
recovery  was  abandoned.  Mr.  Reed  himself  was 
of  the  opinion  that  his  illness  might  prove  a very 
protracted  one;  some  of  his  relations  had  suffered 
under  the  same  complaint  for  years,  enjoying  du- 
ring much  of  the  time  such  a degree  of  strength  as 
fitted  them  for  attending  to  their  business.  And 
his  medical  attendant  encouraged  this  view  of  his 
case,  which  seemed  the  more  probable,  as  but  one 
lobe  of  the  lungs  was  supposed  to  be  affected. 
Still  his  weakness  was  so  great  as  to  unfit  him  for 
usefulness  in  a new  mission,  where  everything 
was  to  be  established,  and  the  expense  of  living 
much  greater  than  it  would  be  amongst  his  friends, 
while  the  degree  of  comfort,  bodily  and  mental, 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


59 


was  far  less.  After  much  consideration,  and  many 
fervent  prayers  for  direction  from  on  high,  we 
were  satisfied  that  it'  was  advisable  for  him  to  re- 
turn home.  This  was  an  exceedingly  trying  de- 
cision to  himself,  and  not  less  so  to  his  excellent 
wife.  But  they  considered  that  this  seemed  to  be 
the  Lord’s  will,  and  under  the  same  principles, 
and  I believe  with  a greater  sacrifice  of  feeling 
than  they  had  made  on  leaving  the  United  States, 
they  now  prepared  for  their  voyage  homeward. 
Our  house  in  Howrah  was  given  up,  and  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Pearce  again  received  our  afflicted  friends  in 
their  kind  home.  Passages  were  taken  for  them 
in  the  Edward,  for  Philadelphia;  a few  more 
weeks  soon  passed  away,  during  which  time  Mr. 
Reed  manifested  the  utmost  degree  of  Christian 
fortitude  and  patience,  and  on  the  23d  of  July  they 
went  on  board.  The  ship  had  been  delayed  in  her 
departure,  and  during  the  last  week  or  two,  Mr. 
Reed  seemed  to  become  feebler  every  day,  so  that 
we  were  inclined  to  doubt  about  his  attempting  so 
long  a voyage.  His  kind  medical  adviser,  how- 
ever, still  recommended  the  change,  and  all  the 
arrangements  having  been  completed,  they  did  not 
deem  it  expedient  to  remain.  Thus  was  our  little 
company  a second  time  visited  with  most  trying 
dispensations ; the  general  prospects  of  our  mis- 
sion continued  to  be  favourable,  but  what  with 
bereavement,  loss  of  my  companions,  and  health 
far  from  good,  the  long  and  solitary  journey  to 
Lodiana,  appeared  to  me  exceedingly  dishearten- 
ing. My  own  discouragements,  however,  were  of 
light  consequence  when  compared  with  my  be- 
loved missionary  brother’s  mournful  lot.  His  hopes 
were  all  disappointed,  his  plans  all  set  aside,  his 
fervent  desire  of  usefulness  to  those  poor  heathens 


60 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


not  granted — I do  not  say,  not  accepted  nor  re- 
warded. For  He  whose  eye  saw  his  servant’s  pur- 
pose to  assist  in  building  the  spiritual  temple,  would 
in  his  case  as  in  that  of  David,  accept  the  desire 
and  vouchsafe  a gracious  reward.  It  is  not  what 
our  hands  perform  that  chiefly  receives  his  favour, 
but  what  our  hearts,  influenced  by  his  grace,  devise 
and  desire  to  accomplish.  And  if  this  dispensation 
appeared  as  dark  as  it  was  severe  to  us  all,  yet  we 
were  assured  that  what  we  knew  not  then  we 
should  know  hereafter,  and  that  we  should  yet 
praise  God  for  all  his  dispensations  towards  our- 
selves and  towards  his  cause.  Thus  in  faith  we 
parted,  no  more  to  meet  on  earth,  but  with  a firm 
hope  of  meeting  in  a better  world.* 

* Nearly  a year  afterwards  I heard  of  the  death  of 
Mr.  Reed,  on  the  12th  of  August,  about  three  weeks  after 
leaving  Calcutta.  He  continued  to  enjoy  a calm  and 
steady  peace  until  the  last,  and  then  resigned  his  spirit 
into  his  Saviour’s  arms.  He  was  a man  of  respectable 
talents,  great  patience,  and  excellent  judgment;  these 
traits,  united  with  the  perfect  sincerity  of  his  Christian 
character,  and  the  entire  devotion  of  all  his  powers  and 
aims  to  his  Lord’s  service,  would  have  made  him  a most 
valuable  minister  of  the  gospel  either  at  home  or  abroad, 
and  seemed  to  fit  him  for  eminent  usefulness  in  the  mis- 
sionary field.  But  the  Master  whom  he  served  had  work 
for  him  in  a higher  sphere  of  duty  and  enjoyment. 


JOURNEV  TO  LODIANA. 


61 


CHAPTER  VI. 

* JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA/ 

Native  boats — Serampore — Dangers  of  “tracking” — Nu- 
merous towns — Boat  wrecked — Berhampore — Moorshe- 
dabad. 

While  my  missionary  companions  were  preparing 
for  their  voyage  by  sea,  I had  been  getting  ready 
for  a hardly  less  tedious  voyage  up  the  Ganges, 
and  shortly  after  our  parting  on  the  Edward,  I 
went  on  board  a native  boat.  While  they  were 
going  down  the  river,  oppressed,  I doubt  not,  with 
deeply  sorrowful  feelings,  I was  slowly  making  my 
way  up  the  same  river  with  no  other  company 
than  the  natives,  and  with  a journey  of  twelve 
hundred  miles  before  me,  amongst  a strange  and 
heathen  people.  Under  these  circumstances,  and 
at  other  times,  I was  made  to  feel  that  the  trials  of 
missionary  life  are  often  chiefly  those  of  the  mind. 
It  is  not  the  privation  of  the  comforts  of  home, 
nor  the  outward  hardships  of  his  lot  in  his  new 
sphere  of  life,  but  it  is  mainly  the  separation  from 
friends,  the  loss  of  social  and  Christian  privileges, 

I the  thoughts  and  longings  of  the  mind  for  what 
must  be  foregone;  the  thousand  visions  of  the 
imagination,  by  day  and  by  night,  of  what  is  far 
distant  and  never  again  to  be  seen,  making  it  ex- 
tremely difficult  for  him  to  feel  contented  and 
cheerful — it  is  chiefly  these  things  that  are  trying 
to  bear.  But  trials  can  be  supported  with  cheer- 
fulness, if  we  are  in  the  path  of  duty.  I could 
not  look  in  any  direction  without  seeing  multitudes 
of  people  “ without  God,  and  without  hope  in  the 


62 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


world.”  I could  not  receive  the  Sacred  Scriptures 
as  the  guide  of  my  own  faith,  and  the  means  of 
my  own  hope  of  eternal  life,  without  at  the  same 
time  believing  a knowledge  of  them  to  be  equally 
necessary  to  the  dark-minded  people  around  me; 
nor  could  I doubt  the  solemn  obligation  resting  on 
all  Christians,  to  use  all  proper  means  for  making 
known  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to  every  crea- 
ture. Here  then  was  a work  to  be  done,  of  the 
most  sacred  character,  by  which  the  weightiest 
interests  of  the  souls  of  men  would  be  affected ; 
and  if  the  Saviour’s  spirit,  not  less  than  his  com- 
mand, but  moved  me  to  take  part  in  that  work, 
surely  I could  not  doubt  that  all  temporal  and 
earthly  sacrifices  should  readily  be  made  in  order 
to  fidelity  and  success  in  so  holy  a calling.  These 
were  the  circumstances,  of  all  others,  in  which  a 
missionary  might  humbly  hope  for  the  fulfilment 
of  our  Lord’s  promise,  “ Lo,  I am  with  you 
always.” — I could  not  hesitate,  therefore,  to  go 
forward. 

There  are  three  modes  of  travelling  in  India;  by 
the  rivers  in  boats,  or  on  land,  with  tents,  or  in 
palankeens.  Before  the  introduction  of  steamers, 
which  are  but  partially  used,  however,  on  the 
India  rivers,  the  only  mode  of  expeditious  travel- 
ling was  in  a palankeen,  carried  by  men,  having 
relays  stationed,  by  a previous  arrangement,  at 
certain  stages,  usually  about  ten  miles  apart.  If 
the  traveller  takes  his  rest  in  his  palankeen,  and 
proceeds  by  night  as  well  as  by  day,  he  may  make 
about  one  hundred  miles  in  the  twenty-four  hours. 
It  is  a very  irksome  way  of  travelling,  and  if  he 
has  much  luggage,  which  he  wishes  to  keep  under 
his  eye,  this  mode  cannot  be  chosen.  Travelling 
with  tents,  during  the  cold  season,  is  a pleasant 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


63 


way  of  making  a journey,  though  a tedious  one. 
From  ten  to  fifteen  miles  a day  is  the  usual  dis- 
tance of  each  stage.  I determined  to  proceed  by 
the  river  in  the  kind  of  boat  commonly  taken  by 
European  travellers,  called  a budgerow;  and  at  the 
recommendation  of  others,  I procured  a smaller 
boat  to  accompany  the  budgerow,  chiefly  as  a 
freight  boat,  but  to  serve  also  as  the  kitchen  of  our 
party.  This  smaller  boat  proved  unnecessary  and 
inconvenient,  while  it  added  to  the  expense.  These 
boats  are  of  a half  round  bottom,  without  a keel, 
rather  wide  towards  the  stern,  and  tapering  to  a 
long  point  in  front.  They  have  a cabin  over  the 
after-part,  with  a flat  roof,  on  which  the  boatmen 
sleep  at  night,  and  work  the  boat  much  of  the  time 
by  day,  particularly  in  poling  or  sailing.  A single 
mast  stands  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  boat,  just 
forward  of  the  cabin,  and  oars  are  fastened  to  the 
long  deck  before  the  mast,  but  are  seldom  used. 
They  carry  no  ballast,  and  the  lading  is  so  placed 
as  to  be  above  the  water-line ; being  thus  top- 
heavy,  there  is  constant  danger  of  being  over- 
turned. 

These  notices  will  aid  the  reader  in  understand- 
ing some  of  the  notes  which  I made  on  this  river 
journey,  and  which  are  now  inserted,  not  merely 
because  they  contain  remarks  on  the  people,  and 
present  a mode  of  travelling  with  which  we  are 
happily  unacquainted  in  this  country,  but  because 
they  will  serve  also  to  exhibit  the  serious  dangers 
which  attend  travelling  on  the  Ganges.  Our  mis- 
sionaries, who  have  all  gone  by  this  route,  would 
agree  with  me,  probably,  in  accounting  the  journey 
from  Calcutta  to  the  up-country  stations,  as  really 
more  hazardous,  and  more  trying  to  one’s  temper, 


64 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


though  certainly  far  more  interesting,  than  the 
voyage  to  Calcutta. 

July  25,  1834. — Having  engaged  a twelve- 
oared  budgerow,  and  another  native  boat  for  the 
servants  to  cook  on,  and  for  part  of  the  luggage,  I 
had  expected  to  start  early  this  morning  on  the 
journey  to  Lodiana.  Bishop  Heber  speaks  of 
“ two  hours’  squabbling”  with  the  boat-people 
when  he  was  setting  out  on  his  tour  of  visitation. 
I found  some  trouble  both  with  the  budgerow  peo- 
ple and  the  freight  or  cook-boatmen.  The  former 
refused  to  cook  on  the  boat,  insisting  on  being  per- 
mitted to  cook  on  the  budgerow — which,  from  the 
nature  of  the  ingredients  which  they  use,  and  from 
the  smoke,  would  have  been  very  disagreeable. 
After  they  found  that  this  point  could  not  be  gained, 
which,  however,  they  did  not  yield  until  the  mat- 
ter was  carried  before  the  Agents  from  whom  I 
had  hired  the  boats,  then  the  people  of  the  other 
boat  set  up  a great  jabbering  about  the  place  in 
their  boat  which  should  be  assigned  to  the  budge- 
row people  for  cooking.  The  ostensible  ground 
of  the  difficulty  in  both  cases  was  the  fear  of  losing 
caste ; which  was  merely  a pretext,  the  true  rea- 
son being  a regard  to  their  own  convenience.  The 
evils  of  caste  in  this  country  are  visible  in  a thou- 
sand forms.  One  of  these  is  in  reference  to  the 
place  of  their  cooking  their  food.  Each  caste  must 
cook  by  itself — eat  by  itself.  We  have  now  three 
places  for  cooking  on  the  cook-boat;  one  forme, 
at  which  also  the  servants  cook ; and  one  each  for 
the  crews  of  the  two  boats.  One  thing  was  ob- 
vious in  these  disputes,  that  mild  firmness  in  our 
intercourse  with  these  poor  natives  is  quite  impor- 
tant. I believe  they  entertain  more  respect  for  me 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


65 


now,  than  if  I had  yielded  to  all  their  demands. 
We  started  with  the  tide ; but  made  no  progress, 
as  the  wind  was  strongly  against  us,  and  were 
obliged  to  “ come  to,”  after  two  or  three  hours  of 
hard  work. 

July  26. — Started  again  with  the  tide  about 
three  P.  M.,  but  did  not  make  much  progress, 
mooring  a few  miles  above  Chitpur — five  or  six 
miles  distance.  The  boatmen  seem  a strong,  ac- 
tive set  of  young  men;  and  are  thus  far  disposed 
to  be  very  obliging.  But  they  are  very  ready  to 
take  every  opportunity  of  imposing  on  the  igno- 
rance or  weakness  of  the  “ Sahib.”  Two  inci- 
dents occurred  to-day  illustrating  this  remark.  In 
the  afternoon  the  Manjhi,  or  headman,  came  with 
great  respect,  to  ask  for  twenty  rupees,  to  be  re- 
paid at  Cawnpore.  He  knew  very  well  that  his 
wages  were  to  be  paid  by  the  Agents,  not  by  me, 
and  therefore  wished  me  to  lend  him  the  money. 
But  I happened  to  know,  that  if  he  got  possession 
of  any  sum,  however  small,  I should  have  much 
trouble,  and  little  hopeof  getting  itback  again;  and 
so  declined  granting  his  request.  Soon  after,  one 
of  the  men  came  to  beg  a rupee,  telling  me  that  it 
was  clusturi,  customary.  Again,  I happened  to 
know  better.  It  is  recommended  to  make  them 
occasionally  a present  of  a basket  of  fish,  which 
gratifies  them  more  than  the  money  paid  for  the 
fish. 

July  27. — Started  early,  hoping  to  reach  Se- 
rampore  by  sun-rise.  Serampore  is  a small  Danish 
settlement,  about  fifteen  miles  above  Calcutta,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  Hoogley.  It  has  more  of 
a European  appearance  than  most  towns  in  India, 
and  stretches  neatly  a mile  along  the  river’s  bank, 
but  is  of  no  great  breadth.  Every  thing  now  wears 


66 


JOURNEY  TO  EODIANA. 


the  aspect  of  decay;  though  formerly  it  was  a 
place  of  some  importance. 

The  Serampore  Baptists  are  known  among  all 
the  churches,  as  the  earliest  missionaries  to  this 
part  of  India,  and  as  formerly  so  extensively  en- 
gaged in  translating  and  publishing  the  Scriptures. 
It  is  any  thing  but  agreeable  to  have  to  add,  that 
the  operations  of  this  society  seem  to  be  on  the 
decline,  as  well  as  the  town  in  which  its  head- 
quarters are  established.  It  is  ascribed  partly  to 
the  want  of  funds.  At  Serampore  there  are  three 
European  ministers,  including  Dr.  Marshman;  and 
there  are  some  other  Europeans  connected  with 
the  Press.  The  former  are  occupied  partly  with 
a kind  of  College,  to  prepare  young  men  for  the 
missionary  service.  There  is  a fine  college  edi- 
fice, and  a good  collection  of  books;  but  not  many 
students.  I believe  a number  of  the  missionaries 
employed  by  this  Society  received  their  instruc- 
tion here.  If  I have  been  correctly  informed,  the 
greater  part  of  the  Serampore  missionaries,  at  the 
subordinate  stations,  are  East-Indians — good  men, 
and,  from  their  intimate  knowledge  of  the  native 
language,  and  their  ability  to  endure  the  heat  of 
the  climate,  well  adapted  for  usefulness.  I may 
here  add  further,  that  I have  not  had  opportunity 
to  become  acquainted  with  many  of  these  brethren. 
One  or  two,  whom  I saw,  I thought  excellent  mis- 
sionaries. But  I have  no  doubt,  from  all  I have 
heard,  that  their  usefulness  would  be  greatly  pro- 
moted by  their  spending  some  lime  in  a Christian 
country,  such  as  England  or  the  United  States, 
while  pursuing  their  studies.  It  is  difficult  for 
those  who  have  been  born  and  brought  up  in  a 
heathen  country,  even  though  under  the  best  aus- 
pices, to  form  those  clear  and  enlarged  conceptions 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


G7 


of  the  nature  and  advantages  of  Christianity,  and 
of  civilization  in  general,  which  a residence  in  a 
Christian  land  would  almost  certainly  afford  oppor- 
tunities of  forming.  I do  not  mean  to  say,  that 
some  of  the  missionaries  of  this  class  are  not  equal 
or  superior  to  some  European  missionaries ; but 
only,  that  the  former  would  be  much  benefitted  by 
enjoying  the  advantages  of  the  latter.  One  of  the 
Church  Society’s  missionaries  is  an  East-Indian, 
who  had  the  advantages  of  a residence  for  some 
time  in  England;  and  he  is  now  regarded  as  one 
of  the  most  efficient  missionaries  in  the  Presi- 
dency. The  Seram  pore  missionaries  have  English 
services  on  the  Sabbath  at  two  or  three  European 
stations  not  many  miles  distant ; and  they  have 
also  the  superintendence  and  direction  of  the  va- 
rious branches  of  the  Serampore  mission.  Dr. 
Marshman  is  now  rather  an  aged  man.  He  is 
almost  the  only  aged  missionary  I know,  and 
stands  like  a venerable  oak  in  the  forest. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Barrackpore, 
a large  Military  Village,  where  the  native  soldiers 
t (called  Sepoys,  from  the  word  Sipahi — a soldier) 
attached  to  the  Presidency-Division  of  the  army, 
have  their  quarters.  Sepoys  form  much  the  great- 
est part  of  the  British  army  in  India.  They  are 
always  commanded  by  English  officers,  and  make 
excellent  soldiers.  At  Barrackpore,  the  Governor- 
General  has  a country  residence.  There  is  a small 
church  also,  and  a chaplain. 

July  28. — Started  again  in  the  clear  moonlight 
about  three  o’clock,  A.  M.,  and  in  the  early  part 
of  the  afternoon  reached  Chinsurah,  twenty-two 
miles  by  water.  The  boatmen  “ tracked,”  a good 
part  of  the  way,  that  is,  six  or  seven  men  went  on 
shore,  and,  pulling  with  a long  rope,  drew  the  boat 


68 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


along  at  the  rate  of  about  two  miles  an  hour.  It  is 
hard  work ; as  the  poor  fellows  have  to  cross  nul- 
lahs, or  arms  of  the  river,  frequently  so  deep  as  to 
require  them  to  swim,  and  to  walk  often  knee- 
deep  in  mud,  all  the  time  exposed  to  a hot  sun. 
They  relieve  each  other  every  hour  by  twos;  that 
is,  two  of  the  men  from  on  board  the  boat  take 
the  place  of  two  who  have  been  longest  on  shore. 
In  order  to  have  sufficient  purchase  in  pulling, 
they  take  a very  long  rope;  and,  to  keep  this  rope 
from  becoming  entangled  by  the  bushes,  and  from 
dragging  heavily  through  the  water,  they  make  it 
fast,  about  fifteen  feet  above  the  deck,  to  the  mast. 
As  a considerable  part  of  the  vessel  in  the  water  is 
in  advance  of  the  place  to  which  the  rope  is  attach- 
ed, when  the  current  happens  to  be  very  strong, 
there  is  great  danger  that  the  prow  will  be  forced 
to  one  side,  or  to  the  other,  owing  to  the  smallness 
of  the  rudder;  and  then  there  is  still  greater  danger 
that  the  boat  will  be  pulled,  by  the  men  at  the  rope, 
on  its  “ beam-ends,”  as  the  sailors  say — on  its 
side,  and  go  down  to  the  bottom.  I describe  the 
process  minutely;  for  my  most  frequent  dangers, 
and  some  of  the  greatest,  were  from  this  source. 
In  many  places,  the  current  dashes  along  with 
immense  force  at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  miles 
an  hour.  The  “ trackers,”  bent  almost  to  the 
ground,  strain  every  nerve  to  pull  the  boat.  The 
prow  suddenly  veers  from  the  right  direction;  the 
boat  is  already  half  on  its  side ; all  on  board  sing  out 
as  loudly  as  possible  to  the  men  on  shore  to  slacken 
the  rope;  and,  if  they  hear  in  time,  all  may  be 
well  enough;  but  if  not,  the  danger  is  very  immi- 
nent that  every  thing  will  be  lost,  except  the  lives 
of  the  reckless  boat-people,  who  seem  to  be  an 
almost  amphibious  race.  It  would  be  no  easy 


matter  to  drown  one  of  them.  When  the  wind  is 
not  favourable,  “tracking”  is  the  common  mode  of 
getting  along;  as  they  hardly  ever  make  use  of 
the  long  awkward  oars.  Of  course,  it  is  a very 
tedious  mode  of  travelling.  When  the  wind  is 
favourable,  they  spread  sail,  contriving  to  fasten 
two  or  three  sails,  one  above  another,  to  the  single 
mast  in  the  centre  of  the  boat.  A strong  wind  will 
carry  the  boat  against  the  current  from  twenty  to 
thirty  miles  a-tlay ; the  distance  varying  as  the 
channel  may  accord  with  the  direction  of  the  wind. 
From  June  to  October,  the  wind  usually  blows 
from  the  S.  E.,  though  not  without  intervals  of 
contrary  winds,  or  of  no  wind  at  all.  From  Octo- 
ber to  March,  the  wind  is  from  the  N.  W. 

A few  miles  above  Serampore  is  Chandernagore, 
a French  settlement.  The  town  is  not  very  large, 
and  is  not  prosperous;  though  formerly  it  was  a 
place  of  considerable  importance.  The  tricoloured 
flag  was  flying,  and  guns  were  fired  every  half 
hour,  the  day  I passed — I suppose  in  commemo- 
ration of  the  “ three-days’  revolution”  in  1830. 
Chinsurah  was  originally  a Dutch  settlement.  It 
is  not  a place  of  much  commerce  now.  The  situa- 
tion of  these  three  foreign  settlements — Serampore, 
Chandernagore,  and  Chinsurah — until  recently,  in 
the  midst  of  the  British  territory,  is  rather  singu- 
lar. They  are  regarded  by  the  English  authorities, 
I believe,  as  islands,  and  the  same  general  policy 
is  pursued  towards  them  that  would  be  pursued 
towards  Danish,  French,  and  Dutch  Islands  in  the 
ocean.  Each  place  has  its  own  Governor  ap- 
pointed by  its  respective  king.  But  since  Calcutta 
has  engrossed  the  commerce  of  this  part  of  India, 
the  duties  of  these  Governors  are  chiefly  to  ad- 
minister the  local  government  of  their  respective 


TO 


JOURNEY  TO  EODIANA. 


towns — a very  insignificant  sphere  of  operation. 

At  Chinsurah  tiiere  is  one  missionary  under  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  who  has  the  charge 
of  several  schools. 

July  29. — Started  about  five  o’clock,  and  after 
toiling  hard  for  twelve  hours,  most  of  the  time  at 
the  rope,  the  men  moored  at  a small  village  of  fif- 
teen or  twenty  cottages.  This  village  is  in  the  i 
midst  of  the  jungle,  or  waste,  uncultivated  land;  j 
which  is  here  covered  chiefly  with  tall,  rank  grass. 
The  people  are  cowherds;  and  not  one  of  them 
can  read.  By  way  of  excuse,  one  of  them  told  me 
they  were  Bengalis,  and  there  were  no  Bengali  I 
books.  He  was  probably  ignorant  enough  not  to 
know  any  better.  We  made  about  twenty  miles. 
The  banks  of  the  river  are  becoming  higher,  and  I 
even  saw  an  elevation  like  a very  low  hill.  Cocoa-  • 
nut  trees  are  not  numerous.  Heretofore,  the  banks 
of  the  river,  when  not  cultivated,  are  covered  with 
a very  dense,  luxurious  growth  of  underwood, 
among  which  the  cocoa-nut,  raising  its  straight 
trunk,  without  limb  or  leaf,  except  the  tuft  of  long 
leaves  at  the  top,  forms  a very  prominent  object. 

Saw  a few  English-looking  houses  to-day,  oc- 
cupied by  indigo-planters;  and  passed  one  large 
church,  much  like  some  of  the  churches  in  Ma- 
deira. It  was  at  Bandell,  an  old  Portuguese  town, 
where,  it  is  said,  there  is  also  a monastery. 
Hoogley  is  close  by  Bandell,  and  is  an  ancient 
native  town,  where  formerly  the  French,  Dutch,  i 
Portuguese,  and  Danes,  had  each  a factory.  In 
1G32,  the  first  serious  quarrels  between  the  Moguls 
and  Europeans  occurred  at  this  town.  The  Por- 
tuguese lost  sixty-four  large  ships,  (on  one  of 
which  were  two  thousand  persons,  who,  with  all 
their  properly,  were  blown  up,)  fifty  grabs,  and 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


71 


nearly  two  hundred  sloops.  The  river  at  that 
time  must  have  been  more  favourable  for  naviga- 
tion than  it  is  at  present.  Such  a fleet  could  not 
now  come  thus  far  up  the  river.  The  town  of 
Hoogley  is  still  large  and  populous;  and  is  prosper- 
ous, being  the  seat  of  considerable  native  trade.  It 
is  an  important  place  for  a missionary  station, 
especially  if  it  could  be  occupied  by  a well  edu- 
cated native  missionary. 

July  30. — Started  at  five,  and  at  ten  was  not 
more  than  fifteen  minutes’  walk  from  the  place 
whence  we  set  out,  though  we  had  made  several 
miles.  The  river  makes  a remarkable  bend  at  this 
place.  Stopped  for  the  night  at  Culna,  a large  and 
prosperous  native  town.  I understood  that  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  support  a Catechist  at 
this  town,  who  has  charge  of  a school;  but  he  was 
not  at  home,  and  I did  not  learn  any  particulars. 
By  a large  native  town,  I mean  a town  of  several 
thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  extremely  difficult  to 
form  a correct  estimate  of  native  population ; but  I 
should  think  that  Culna  contains  ten  or  fifteen 
thousand  inhabitants.  As  usual,  I took  some  tracts 
to  distribute  during  my  walk  on  shore,  if  I should 
meet  with  persons  who  could  read.  It  is,  how- 
ever, but  a very  small  proportion  of  these  people 
who  are  able  to  read;  perhaps  not  one  person  out 
of  fifty.  I gave  three  tracts  this  evening  to  dif- 
ferent persons,  who  were  very  willing  to  receive 
them.  One  of  the  men,  a Brahman,  soon  came  to 
me  for  another  tract,  telling  me  he  had  given  the 
first  one  to  his  “ brother,”  the  common  phrase  for 
friend. 

July  31. — Moored,  this  evening,  just  below  the 
junction  of  the  Bhagiralhi  and  Jellinghi  rivers — 
branches  of  the  Ganges,  which  here  unite  and  form 


72 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


the  Hoogley.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
is  Nuddea,  a native  town  of  some  size,  which  was 
formerly  the  seat  of  considerable  Brahmanical 
learning;  though,  at  present,  few  traces  of  it  are 
said  to  remain.  The  district  of  the  same  name, 
in  1802,  contained,  in  a territory  of  about  three 
thousand  square  miles,  upwards  of  eight  hundred 
thousand  people.  It  is  supposed  the  number  is 
now  much  greater.  In  the  adjoining  district  of 
Burdwan,  the  population  amounted  to  six  hundred 
persons,  on  the  average,  to  a square  mile. 

August  5. — For  two  or  three  days,  including 
the  last  date,  the  wind  was  quite  unfavourable;  so 
that  we  were  obliged  to  lie  to,  without  attempting 
to  make  any  progress.  On  Sabbath,  3d,  the  wind 
increased  to  a violent  gale,  causing  large  waves  on 
the  river,  which  is  here  deep  and  broad.  We 
were  unfortunately  moored  to  the  lee-shore;  so 
that  the  wind  both  pushed  the  boats  against  the 
shore,  and  the  waves  against  the  boats.  The  wind 
had  been  unfavourable  for  two  or  three  days  pre- 
vious, but  on  Sunday  it  increased  to  a violent  gale, 
and  it  soon  became  evident  that  we  should  have 
difficulty  to  save  the  boats  from  being  wrecked. 
In  the  other  budgerow  were  a gentleman,  his  wife, 
and  their  children.  The  lady  becoming  alarmed, 
insisted  on  leaving  the  boat,  and  it  was  well  they 
did  so,  for  it  sunk  under  the  fury  of  the  waves  in 
a few  minutes  after  they  left  it.  Several  native 
vessels,  and  my  freight  boat,  in  which  were  seve- 
ral large  boxes  of  things,  shared  the  same  fate. 
I had  most  of  the  valuable  articles  taken  out  of  the 
budgerow,  and  with  great  difficulty  it  was  just 
saved;  but  as  the  rain  was  pouring  down  in  tor- 
rents, and  the  wind  was  very  high,  the  books 
were  much  injured,  the  other  articles  also  damaged 


JOURNEY  TO  EODIANA. 


73 


more  or  less,  and  I got,  of  course,  after  three  hours’ 
hard  work  in  the  rain,  completely  tired  and  wet. 

A kind  English  family  happened  to  reside  in 
the  neighbourhood,  who  received  us  kindly,  and 
provided  dry  clothing,  &c. — This  was  one  of  two 
special  circumstances,  deserving  sincere  gratitude; 
the  prejudices  of  the  natives  prevent  their  receiv- 
ing foreigners  into  their  houses,  and  there  are 
very  few  English  families  in  that  section  of  the 
country — not  one  in  twenty  miles.  The  expo- 
sure might  have  proved  injurious,  if  it  had  been 
necessary  to  remain  unsheltered,  in  wet  clothes, 
during  the  dreadful  stormy  night  which  succeeded. 
The  other  cause  of  thankfulness  was  that  the  gale 
did  not  come  on  during  the  night,  as  in  that  case 
every  thing  would  have  been  lost,  and  probably 
our  lives  also.  The  gale  was  very  general,  and 
occasioned  great  loss  of  property,  and  the  loss  of 
many  lives.  I hope  to  recover  the  greater  part  of 
my  pecuniary  loss  from  the  Insurance  Office. 

The  travelling  on  this  river  is,  almost  at  every 
season  of  the  year,  attended  with  danger.  The 
boats,  even  those  for  the  accommodation  of  Eng- 
lish people,  as  budgerows  and  pinnaces,  are  awk- 
wardly built  on  a more  awkward  model,  (at  least 
the  former) — the  boatmen  are  unskilful  and  reck- 
less— during  the  rains,  though  you  have  usually  a 
fine  wind,  yet  you  must  stem  a strong  current — 
at  other  times  you  are  in  danger  from  north-westers, 
&c.  &c.  Every  year  many  boats  are  lost.  I have 
heard  of  two  budgerows  being  entirely  lost  since 
I left,  and  I have  several  times  seen  that  it  was  the 
almost  direct  power  of  the  Lord  that  saved  mine 
from  the  same  fate,  when  rapid  currents,  contra- 
ry wind,  sails  miserably  managed,  and  inefficient 


7 


74 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


boatmen,  seemed  almost  to  make  certain  such  a 
result. 

August  6 and  7. — Arrived  at  Cutwa  on  the 
evening  of  the  6th,  and  was  detained  near  that 
town  all  the  next  day  by  contrary  winds.  Cutwa 
is  a native  town  of  some  size,  about  seventy-five 
miles  direct  distance  from  Calcutta.  There  is  a 
Baptist  missionary  here,  Mr.  Carey,  a son  of  Dr. 
Carey.  There  is  a school  under  the  care  of  Mrs. 
Carey,  and  a small  church  of  native  converts. 

August  9. — Reached  Berhampore  in  time  to 
spend  the  Sabbath  among  Christians — a great 
privilege.  This  town  consists  of  two  parts,  as  do 
most  of  the  towns  where  the  English  have  sta- 
tions; the  one  for  European  residents,  the  other 
for  natives.  These  two  classes  are  seldom  found 
dwelling  together,  or  in  the  same  street.  The 
reason  is,  that  their  mode  of  living,  kind  of  houses, 
customs,  &c.,  are  so  widely  different,  that  each 
class  finds  it  more  convenient  to  have  their  own 
quarters  in  the  town  or  city.  I mention  this  cir- 
cumstance, because  I am  inclined  to  think  it  has 
some  bearing  on  the  usefulness  of  missionaries. 
Dwelling  usually  in  the  same  parts  of  the  place 
with  their  countrymen,  they  are  perhaps  too  much 
identified  with  them ; and  less  opportunity  is  af- 
forded to  the  natives  to  profit  by  their  example 
silently  operating  under  continued  observation. 
There  is  probably,  however,  less  truth  in  this  re- 
mark at  Berhampore  than  at  most  stations,  as  the 
missionaries  reside  near  the  native  part  of  the 
town.  In  general,  also,  it  should  be  stated,  that 
the  missionaries  have  really  little  choice  about  the 
matter;  as  it  is  seldom  practicable  to  obtain  a 
house  in  the  native  part  of  the  town  which  would 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


75 


afford  any  accommodation  for  an  English  family. 
Indeed,  if  it  were  practicable,  it  might  in  many 
cases  be  inexpedient,  owing  to  the  danger  of  in- 
jury to  health  from  the  crowded,  dirty,  narrow 
streets,  which  characterize  most  native  towns.  ' 
Yet,  where  a house  at  all  suitable  and  eligible 
could  be  procured,  I think  the  advantages  of  inter- 
course and  of  example  would  be  greater,  and 
should  never  be  overlooked.  Berhampore  is  a 
military  station,  where,  in  addition  to  a regiment  of 
Sepoys,  there  is  a regiment  of  European  soldiers, 
probably  eight  hundred  or  one  thousand  men. 

The  London  Missionary  Society  have  two  mis- 
sionaries at  this  place;  who  find  employment  in 
the  native  town,  which  is  not  very  large,  and  in 
tours  through  the  towns,  and  villages  in  the  country 
around.  They  have  two  or  three  schools,  partly 
under  care  of  their  wives,  for  teaching  the  elemen- 
tary branches  of  the  native  language ; and  there  is 
a small  orphan  asylum.  One  of  the  missionaries 
has  an  English  service,  on  Sabbath  evening,  in  a 
neat  chapel.  There  are  no  native  converts  at  pre- 
sent, I believe,  or  but  two  or  three.  This  mission 
was  commenced  about  ten  or  twelve  years  ago. — 
On  Sabbath,  I went  with  Mr.  H.  into  the  bazar, 
whither  he  usually  goes  every  day  to  make  known 
the  Gospel.  A bazar  corresponds  to  the  streets  of 
our  cities  and  towns  where  the  stores  of  merchants 
are  kept.  The  part  of  the  building  next  to  the 
street  is  appropriated  as  a kind  of  open  shop,  in 
which  various  commodities,  commonly  of  but  little 
aggregate  value,  are  exposed  to  sale.  During  busi- 
ness hours,  the  bazars  are  generally  full  of  people, 
buying  and  selling. — Mr.  H.  took  his  station  at 
one  side  of  one  of  the  principal  streets,  under 
shade  of  a house;  and,  addressing  a native  who 


76 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


seemed  to  have  little  to  do,  he  began  to  read  a tract 
aloud.  Seeing  a “ Sahib”  thus  employed,  number^ 
of  those  who  were  passing  to  and  fro,  stopped  to 
listen,  until  we  were  surrounded  by  forty  or  fifty 
, people — men,  women  of  the  lower  classes,  and 
boys.  Some  staid  for  a few  minutes,  and  then 
pursued  their  way.  Others  staid  longer,  and  some 
staid  all  the  time.  Some  seemed  to  listen  from 
curiosity ; some  with  seriousness  ; all  respectfully. 
After  reading  a few  pages,  Mr.  H.  made  a short 
address,  to  which  occasionally  some  gave  assent ; 
and  then  he  distributed  a small  bundle  of  tracts, 
which  all  seemed  very  eager  to  obtain.  Several 
were  disappointed.  The  scene  was  one  of  much 
interest  to  me. 

August  12. — After  receiving  much  kindness 
from  the  missionary  brethren  and  other  Christian 
friends,  I started  from  Berhampore  and  reached 
Moorshedabad.  This  city  was  formerly  the  Capi- 
tal of  Bengal ; and  is  still  a very  large  place, 
stretching  five  or  six  miles  along  the  east  shore  of 
the  river.  It  is,  however,  greatly  on  the  decline. 
Multitudes  of  the  mud  hovels  are  going  to  ruin,  a 
process  which  in  this  climate  is  very  rapid,  where 
the  materials  are  so  perishable.  There  are  few 
good  buildings  in  Moorshedabad,  and  scarcely  any 
now  building.  A very  extensive  palace,  which  is 
now  building  for  the  nabob,  is  almost  the  only 
new  public  edifice  I saw.  There  are  a number  of 
temples  and  mosques;  but  they  wear  the  aspect 
of  neglect  and  decay.  The  nabob  of  Bengal,  who 
resides  here,  receives  a large  pension  from  the 
Company,  instead  of  Sovereignty.  He  is  said  to 
be  a young  man  of  exceedingly  dissipated  habits; 
so  that  his  influence  amongst  his  countrymen  is 
very  injurious.  . He  takes  little  interest  in  political 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA.  77 

matters,  and  is  anxious  apparently  only  to  live  a 
luxurious,  sensual  life. 

Moorshedabad  is  the  seat  of  considerable  native 
trade;  and,  in  this  neighbourhood,  it  is  said  a 
greater  amount  of  silk  is  woven  into  different 
fabrics  than  at  any  other  place.  It  is  also  the 
head-quarters  of  a circuit  court;  but  the  magis- 
trates reside  at  Berhampore,  nine  miles  below.  The 
London  Missionary  Society  have  recently  sent  a 
Catechist  to  this  place;  but  no  particular  results 
are  yet  manifest  from  his  efforts.  The  missiona- 
ries at  Berhampore  occasionally  visit  it.  It  seems 
to  require  much  greater  attention  from  the  Chris- 
tian world  than  it  has  yet  received.  But  that  is  too 
true  of  many  cities  in  India.  A large  proportion 
of  the  people  of  this  place  are  Mussulmans. 

August  10. — Our  progress  for  several  days  has 
been  very  slow,  owing  to  light  winds,  which 
afforded  little  aid  in  stemming  the  rapid  current  of 
the  river.  While  slowly  toiling  along  this  after- 
noon, two  of  the  nabob's  pleasure  boats  passed 
us.  They  are  of  a singular  structure,  very  long, 
very  narrow,  built  almost  on  the  model  of  a large 
Indian  canoe ; but  with  very  high  prow  and  stern, 
which  were  richly  ornamented.  A highly  finished 
awning  was  spread  over  the  middle  of  the  boats, 
affording  a screen  for  two  or  three  persons  from 
the  sun.  The  rest  of  the  boats,  fore  and  aft,  was 
occupied  by  rowers,  to  the  number  of  thirty  or 
forty  to  each  boat.  These  rowers  kept  admirable 
time;  as  they  lifted  their  paddles  out  of  the  water, 

(quickly  performed  a circuit  with  them  through  the 
air,  raising  them  above  their  heads,  and  then  all, 
at  the  same  moment,  striking  them  into  the  water 
again ; thus  propelling  the  boats  seven  or  eight 
miles  an  hour  against  the  current.  They  formed 


78 


JOUHNET  TO  LODIANA. 


a great  contrast  to  the  awkward  budgerow,  slowly 
moving  along  by  the  shore. 

To-day,  I passed  Jungipore,  the  greatest  silk 
station  of  the  East  India  Company.  Hamilton 
remarks,  that  “ the  buildings  were  erected  here  in 
1773,  and  in  1803  about  three  thousand  persons 
were  employed.  They  use  the  Italian  method  of 
spinning.  The  mulberry  tree  is  the  oriental;  it 
is  dwarfish,  and  the  leaves  but  indifferent;  to 
which  is  attributed  a degeneracy  in  the  breeds  that 
have  been  introduced  from  foreign  countries.” 

August  17,  Lord’s  Day. — Lay  to,  at  a native 
village,  a short  distance  above  Jungipore.  A num- 
ber of  people,  hearing  that  there  was  a “ Padre 
Sahib”  who  gave  away  tracts,  came  to  ask  for 
them  ; and  I suppose  I gave  one  to  nearly  every 
person  in  the  town  who  was  able  to  read.  A Brah- 
man set  the  example,  though  at  first  evidently  at 
the  expense  of  some  struggles  between  his  pride 
and  his  curiosity;  but  afterwards,  he  brought  a 
number  of  others  of  the  same  caste.  It  is  a cause 
of  thankfulness,  that  they  are  willing  to  receive 
and  to  read  our  religious  books. — Some  very  pleas- 
ing boys  interested  me  much.  They  belonged  to 
families  in  the  higher  classes ; had  fine,  animated, 
intelligent  countenances ; and  were  much  gratified 
by  a tract  to  each  one;  which  they  read  with  great 
fluency,  and  which  they  forthwith  ran  to  show  to 
their  parents.  They  reminded  me  of  some  of  my 
former  Sunday  School  scholars.  Would,  that  theke 
heathen  boys  were  as  highly  favoured! 

From  this  place,  I had  a distant  view  of  the 
Raj-mahal  Hills,  the  sight  of  which  was  very  grate- 
ful to  the  eye,  wearied  with  the  sameness  of  the 
dead  level  country  of  Bengal.  From  this  village 
our  next  day's  sail  was  over  what  Bishop  Heber 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  79 

would  call  “ a miserable  drowned  country.”  Fre- 
quently nothing  was  to  be  seen  in  any  direction 
but  water,  with  the  exception  of  an  occasional  vil- 
lage or  slightly  elevated  ground,  and  perhaps  the 
tops  of  a few  straggling  low  trees.  In  such  places 
the  current  is  very  slow  ; as  its  force  is  lost  in  the 
dispersion  of  the  overflowing  waters.  The  water 
of  the  Ganges,  and  of  course,  of  all  its  outlets,  is 
extremely  muddy.  I have  heard  it  said,  that  the 
clayey  sediment  held  in  solution  during  the  rainy 
season,  is  estimated  at  one-third  of  the  bulk  of 
water.  Much  of  this  sediment  is  deposited  on  the 
land  which  is  overflowed,  and  forms  a very  rich 
manure  in  which,  after  the  waters  subside,  and 
under  a hot  sun,  the  extensive  crops  of  rice  and 
dal  luxuriate  with  great  delight,  at  least  to  the 
owners.  We  made  fast,  for  the  night,  to  a tree  in 
the  midst  of  the  waters,  and  found,  the  next  morn- 
ing, that  the  river  had  subsided  a little  during  the 
night. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

The  great  Ganges  — Raj-mahal  Hills  — Mussulmans  and 
Hindus,  compared — Anecdote  of  Caste — Danger  from  a 
gale — Bhagulpore — Spirit  of  lying — Native  boatmen — 
Monghir — Patna — Dinapore. 

August  19. — After  passing  through  a narrow  chan- 
nel between  lofty  trees  on  each  shore,  and  then  for 
a few  miles  through  an  open  country,  we  entered 


80  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

on  the  Burra  Gunga  of  the  natives,  the  main  branch 
of  the  Ganges.  The  river  is  here,  at  this  season 
of  the  year,  from  three  to  four  miles  wide,  and 
presents  truly  a grand  appearance.  The  idea  of 
irresistible  power  is  strongly  impressed  on  the 
mind  of  the  observer.  The  mighty  river  rolls 
along  in  majesty,  rapidly,  but  tranquilly,  as  if  re- 
gardless of  all  the  world  besides.  It  is  one  of 
God’s  greatest  works;  and  the  innumerable  native 
boats,  which  are  seen  sailing  close  by  the  shore, 
render  the  contrast  between  his  works  and  the 
works  of  man  very  striking.  The  latter  are  little, 
feeble,  and  apparently  in  constant  dread  of  the 
overwhelming  power  of  the  river  in  whose  waters 
they  venture  to  sail.  The  boatmen  seemed  to  feel 
themselves  in  the  presence  of  one  of  the  gods  of 
their  countrymen,  but,  being  Mussulmans,  they 
only  poured  some  water  on  the  prow  of  the  boat, 
and  then  repeated  with  double  energy  their  usual 
prayer  to  “ Allah,  ’la  ’la  ’la-h.”  I do  not  wonder 
that  the  ignorant  mind  of  the  heathen  should  be- 
come superstitious  on  beholding  this  vast  body  of 
waters. 

This  may  be  a proper  place  to  introduce  some 
notices  of  a river  whose  sacredness  is  so  great  in 
India,  and  whose  fame  is  so  widely  spread  through 
other  lands.  I take  them  chiefly  from  Hamilton. 
The  course  of  the  Ganges  is  on  the  southern  side 
of  the  great  Himalaya  range  of  mountains.  It  has 
been  traced  to  a short  distance  above  the  place  of 
Hindu  pilgrimage,  Gangoutri.  Two  miles  above 
this  place  is  the  “ Cow’s  Mouth,”  about  which 
the  natives  have  various  fables.  It  is  merely  a 
large  stone  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  of  which  a 
part  projects  above  the  water;  and,  with  the  aid 
of  a lively  fancy,  may  be  supposed  to  resemble  the 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  81 

mouth  of  that  sacred  animal.  The  pilgrimage  of 
Gangoutri  is  considered  a great  exertion  of  Hindu 
devotion;  and  is  supposed  to  redeem  the  performer 
from  troubles  in  this  world,  and  to  insure  a happy 
transit  through  all  the  transmigrations  that  await 
him  hereafter.  “After  issuing  from  the  moun- 
tains nearHurdwar,  Lat.  29°  57',  long.  78°  2'  East, 
to  the  conflux  with  the  Jumna  at  Allahabad,  the 
first  large  river  that  joins  it,  the  bed  of  the  Ganges 
is  generally  from  a mile  to  one  and  a quarter  wide. 
From  hence  its  course  becomes  more  winding, 
until  after  receiving  the  Gogra,  the  Soane,  and 
other  smaller  streams,  its  channel  attains  its  full 
width,  which  in  some  parts  is  three  miles  across. 
When  at  the  lowest,  it  is  commonly  about  three- 
fourths  of  a mile  in  width.”  During  the  rains,  the 
width  is  of  course  greatly  increased ; as  the  Ganges 
rises  about  thirty-two  feet,  and  the  banks  are  low, 
and  the  country  level  for  a great  part  of  its  course ; 
so  that  the  waters  spread  widely  over  the  face  of 
the  land.  The  Ganges  appears  to  owe  its  increase 
as  much  to  the  melting  of  the  snow  and  the  rains 
on  the  mountains,  as  to  the  rains  which  fall  on  the 
plains ; for  it  rises  fifteen  feet  out  of  thirty-two 
by  the  latter  end  of  June,  and  the  rainy  season 
does  not  fully  begin  in  the  most  of  the  fiat  coun- 
tries until  about  that  time. 

“ About  two  hundred  miles  from  the  sea  the 
Delta  commences.  The  two  most  western  branch- 
es, the  Cossimbazar,  or  Bhagirathi,  and  Jellinghi 
rivers,  unite  and  form  the  Hoogley,  the  only 
branch  of  the  Ganges  generally  navigated  by  ships. 
That  part  of  the  Delta  bordering  on  the  sea  is  com- 
posed of  a labyrinth  of  rivers  and  creeks,  named 
the  Sunderbunds,  which,  including  the  rivers  that 
bound  it,  give  an  expansion  of  two  hundred  miles 
8 


82  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

to  the  branches  of  the  Ganges  at  its  junction  with 
the  sea.”  The  whole  course  is  fifteen  hundred 
miles.  “ By  the  latter  end  of  July,  all  the  lower 
parts  of  Bengal  contiguous  to  the  Ganges  and  Brah- 
maputra are  overflowed,  and  form  an  inundation  of 
more  than  one  hundred  miles  in  width,  nothing 
appearing  but  villages  and  trees.  At  five  hundred 
miles  from  the  sea  the  channel  is  thirty-nine  feet 
deep  when  the  river  is  at  the  lowest;  which  depth 
continues  nearly  to  the  sea;  but  the  outlet  of  the 
main  branch  is  obstructed  by  sandbars.  In  the 
dry  season,  the  mean  rate  of  motion  of  the  current 
is  less  than  three  miles  an  hour;  in  the  wet  season, 
five  or  six;  and,  at  some  places,  seven  or  eight. 
Taking  the  medium  of  the  whole  year,  the  quan- 
tity of  the  water  discharged  is  nearly  one  hundred 
and  eighty  thousand  feet  per  second  of  time. 

“ It  is  only  that  part  of  the  river  which  lies  in  a 
line  between  Gangoutri,  where  its  feeble  stream 
issues  from  the  Himalaya  snows,  to  Saugor  Island 
below  Calcutta,  that  is  particularly  sacred  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Hindu.  The  Hoogley  river,  therefore, 
of  Europeans  is  considered  the  true  Ganges.  Par-  j 
ticular  places  are  esteemed  more  eminently  holy  | 
than  the  rest;  and  to  these  pilgrims  resort  from  a i 
distance,  to  perform  their  ablutions,  and  to  obtain  : t 
the  water  that  is  used  in  their  ceremonies.  The 
chief  of  these  are  the  five  Prayags,  or  holy  junc-  r 
tions  of  rivers,  of  which  Allahabad  is  the  principal,  j t 
and  by  way  of  distinction  is  named  ‘ Pruyag i « 
Including  these  Prayags,  there  are  nine  especially  * 
holy  places  on  this  river.” 

Having  a moderate  wind,  the  boat-people  were 
anxious  to  go  on  until  a later  hour  than  usual,  | 
there  being  moonlight,  though  obscured  by  passing  : , 
clouds.  Accordingly,  we  sailed  along  the  edge  of  : 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  83 

the  river  until  after  eight  o’clock.  The  country 
seemed  to  be  extensively  covered  with  water;  and 
where  the  land  appeared,  it  was  so  saturated  with 
the  rains  that  had  fallen  as  to  afford  no  firm 
ground  for  making  the  boat  fast  for  the  night — 
which  is  done  by  means  of  ropes  attached  to  seve- 
ral stakes  driven  into  the  ground.  At  last,  the 
men  moored  the  boat  at  a place  which  they  thought 
might  suit.  About  the  middle  of  the  night,  I heard 
them  making  a great  noise ; and,  on  going  out, 
found  that  the  fastenings  were  giving  way,  while 
the  wind  had  become  very  high,  and  a densely 
black  cloud  was  threatening  a furious  gale.  No 
time  was  to  be  lost;  and,  with  all  hands  hard  at 
work,  we  got  the  boat  moved  a short  distance  and 
made  fast  at  another  place.  If  the  moorings  had 
not  been  discovered  giving  way  in  time,  there 
would  have  been  little  hope  of  being  saved.  As 
it  was,  the  danger  was  very  great. 

August  20. — Approached  Raj-mahal.  Thera  nge 
of  hills  which  bear  that  name  have  been  in  sight 
for  two  or  three  days.  They  resemble  some  of 
the  Allegheny  Mountains,  and  their  appearance  is 
very  beautiful.  Their  general  direction  is  south- 
ward from  this  place,  though  inclining  a good  deal 
to  the  east.  Their  range  above  the  town  of  Raj- 
mahal  is  quite  to  the  westward  of  north.  The 
river  washes  their  base  from  a considerable  dis- 
tance above  to  this  town;  but  soon  afterwards  its 
waters,  as  if  wearied  with  the  fruitless  effort  to  re- 
move these  mountains,  roll  away  in  an  easterly 
direction. 

These  hills  are  inhabited  by  a distinct  race  of 
people,  called  Paharis,  which  simply  means  hill- 
people.  They  are  supposed  by  many  to  be  the 
aboriginal  inhabitants.  They  have  no  idols,  and 


84  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

pay  a much  greater  regard  to  truth  than  the  Hin- 
dus. Their  mode  of  life  is  less  refined ; their  lan- 
guage is  different,  and  has  not  been  reduced  to 
writing.  A Baptist  missionary  from  Munghfr  has 
made  one  or  two  excursions  among  them;  and 
speaks  favourably  of  their  candour  and  willing- 
ness to  listen  to  his  sentiments  concerning  the  true 
religion.  Their  number  cannot  be  very  great. 
Raj-mahal  was  formerly  the  residence  of  royalty, 
and  some  old  palaces  still  remain,  but  in  a state  of 
great  decay.  The  present  town  contains  perhaps 
a few  thousand  inhabitants.  The  people  begin  to 
wear  an  appearance  less  effeminate  than  that  which 
characterizes  the  Bengalis. 

August  21. — Passed  Sicly  Gully  and  PfrPonti 
— both  of  them  places  to  which  the  attention  of  the 
traveller  on  this  river  is  directed  as  possessing 
novelty,  no  small  recommendation  where  there  is 
so  much  sameness  in  every  thing  as  in  this  region 
of  India.  The  former  was  once  a celebrated  pass, 
commanding  the  entrance  from  Bahar  into  Bengal. 
There  is  a fine  view  of  the  hills  and  of  the  river  from 
this  place.  Pfr  Pontf  is  the  name  given  to  a detach- 
ed hill,  on  account  of  a Mussulman  saint,  Father,  or 
St.  Ponti,  who  was  buried  there.  There  is  also 
a small  but  rather  neat  Hindu  temple  to  Maha 
Dev,  about  half  way  up  the  hill,  which  is  conspi- 
cuous and  pleasing  in  its  appearance.  It  stands  on 
a little  knob  jutting  out  from  the  hill,  while  on 
each  side,  below  and  above,  the  deep  green  of  the 
dense  woods  contrasts  strongly  with  the  white 
walls  of  the  temple.  I have  often  admired  the 
beauty  of  the  sites  chosen  for  these  little  temples 
to  Maha  Dev.  They  are  often  overshadowed  by 
the  peepul  tree  (ficus  religiosa)  which  is  sacred  to 
Shiva;  and  almost  invariably  some  trees  of  that 
species  are  planted  in  the  vicinity. 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  85 

It  is  very  common,  especially  in  towns  of  some 
size,  to  see  the  holy  places  of  Hindus  and  Mussul- 
mans thus  immediately  in  contact.  You  see  a 
temple  at  one  corner,  and  a mosque  at  the  next. 
But,  in  the  smaller  towns,  it  is  more  common  to 
find  each  class  distinct ; either  all  Mussulmans  or 
all  Hindus.  The  average  proportion  of  Hindus 
who  are  followers  of  Mohammed  to  those  who 
worship  idols  is  said  to  be  about  one  to  ten.  The 
further  to  the  northwest  we  go,  the  larger  does  the 
proportion  of  Mussulmans  become.  In  the  “Up- 
per Provinces,”  (as  they  are  termed,)  as  Oude, 
Allahabad,  Agra,  Delhi,  &,c.,  I understand,  that 
the  more  respectable,  that  is,  the  more  wealthy 
and  intelligent  inhabitants,  are  generally  Mussul- 
mans. In  the  Western,  or  Rajput  Provinces,  Hin- 
duism is  said  greatly  to  predominate.  This  is 
easily  to  be  accounted  for;  as  those  regions  were 
never  so  entirely  subject  to  the  rule  of  the  Patan 
and  Mogul  conquerors  as  were  the  Upper  Provin- 
ces. The  two  classes,  in  the  Lower  Provinces, 
resemble  each  other  in  ignorance,  in  vice,  and 
rigid  adherence  to  caste.  They  differ  chiefly  in 
the  external  mode  of  worship  ; though  among  the 
great  mass  of  the  people,  their  observances  are,  in 
both  cases,  an  unintelligible  round  of  ceremonies, 
alike  unmeaning  and  useless.  The  two  best  things 
in  the  Hindu  religion  seem  to  be  the  ablutions,  or 
rather  bathings,  and  the  prohibition  of  most  kinds 
of  animal  food — regulations  which  are  certainly 
useful  in  a hot  climate  like  this;  as  they  secure  a 
certain  degree  of  cleanliness  and  of  temperance. 
These  are  both  wanting  in  the  Mussulman  sys- 
tem: yet  custom  secures  the  former,  and  poverty 
the  latter.  On  the  whole,  I am  disposed  to  think, 
at  present,  that  there  is  not  much  difference  be- 


86  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

tween  the  two  systems  in  the  Lower  Provinces  of 
the  Bengal  Presidency,  in  their  effects  on  the 
morals  or  the  minds  of  their  votaries.  Probably 
the  Mussulman  part  of  the  community  have  some 
advantages  over  their  neighbours  in  being  permit- 
ted to  keep  fowls,  &c.  Small  as  this  item  is,  it  is 
a privilege  of  considerable  importance  among  a 
people  so  very  poor,  and  so  very  densely  settled. 

It  is  rather  singular  to  see  the  Mussulmans  so 
tenacious  of  caste.  My  boat-people  and  servants 
are  all  Mussulmans;  and  yet  1 have  to  be  as  care- 
ful not  to  pollute  their  food  by  touching  it  in  any 
way  as  if  they  were  Hindus.  A little  terrier  dog, 
given  to  me  by  a lady  at  Berhampore,  and  which 
is  quite  a favourite  amongst  the  men,  gave  great 
offence  one  afternoon.  Having  swam  from  the 
shore,  when  he  got  on  deck  he  very  naturally 
shook  off  the  water,  and  a drop  or  two  fell  on  the 
servants  cliipatis,  flat  cakes  of  bread,  which  they 
were  just  getting  ready  for  their  dinner.  Forth- 
with, a clamour  was  raised  ; the  little  dog  scamp- 
ered off  to  the  cabin;  and  the  poor  cakes  of  bread, 
pitched  overboard  by  the  men  with  much  indigna- 
tion, floated  away  piteously  on  the  water.  This 
prevalence  of  caste  among  both  classes  seems  to 
show  that  it  is  a civil  institution  in  some  sense, 
though  invented  by  the  Brahmans;  or  raiher,  per- 
haps, that  the  Mussulmans  in  India  retain,  in  some 
degree,  the  religious  character  of  their  heathen 
countrymen.  The  latter  inference  is  no  doubt 
correct  in  itself,  whether  it  be  drawn  from  their 
attachment  to  caste  or  not.  And,  in  regard  to  the 
former,  in  India  the  civil  and  social  institutions,  as 
well  as  the  literature  of  the  country,  are  interwoven 
inseparably  with  the  religious  system  that  prevails. 
And  this  it  is  which  opposes  such  a barrier  to  the 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  87 

progress  of  Christianity.  To  forsake  their  religion 
is  to  give  up  their  connection  with  the  social  frame- 
work of  society,  with  the  literature  of  the  commu- 
nity, and  even  with  the  common  rights  of  citizens, 
where  some  other  power  than  Hindu  is  not  inter- 
posed to  protect  them.  It  is  to  become  a foreign- 
er in  the  midst  of  one’s  own  country;  a stranger 
in  one’s  own  neighbourhood ; an  enemy,  hated  and 
despised,  in  one’s  own  family.  It  is  really  no 
wonder,  therefore,  that  there  has  been  so  little  nu- 
merical progress  of  Christianity  in  India.  The 
actual  progress  in  the  weakening  of  former  attach- 
ments and  prejudices,  and  in  the  diffusion  of  light, 
is  supposed  by  all  competent  judges  to  be  very 
great. 

Leaving  Pir  Ponti,  we  sailed  over  a broad  ex- 
panse of  water,  in  order  to  get  to  the  other  side; 
for  the  boatmen  on  this  river  seldom  steer  their 
boats  into  the  middle  of  the  channel,  but  creep 
along  close  by  the  shore.  At  the  place  where  we 
crossed,  the  river  is  probably  three  or  four  miles 
wide.  While  in  the  middle  of  the  channel,  a gale 
sprung  up  suddenly,  and  struck  the  boat  on  the 
foreside,  coming  partly  in  the  same  course  as  the 
current.  The  consequence  was,  that  we  were 
carried  obliquely  down  the  current  with  fearful 
rapidity  for  two  or  three  miles,  until  all  at  once  we 
were  “ brought  to”  by  being  dashed  violently 
against  the  low  shore.  The  shock  was  so  great 
that  it  was  with  difficulty  I could  keep  on  my  feet; 
while  chairs,  books,  plates,  pitchers,  glasses,  were 
scattered  over  the  cabin  floor  in  great  confusion. 
I felt  extremely  grateful  to  the  kind  Providence 
which  preserved  us.  Often  in  such  sudden  gales, 
boats  founder  at  once,  and  all  on  board  frequently 
perish. 


88  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

The  scenery  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  in 
this  place,  is  very  beautiful.  A low  range  of  irre- 
gular hills  stretches  along  for  several  miles,  among 
which  the  eye  is  perfectly  rejoiced  to  see  some 
pretty  little  brooks  hastening  to  pay  their  tribute  to 
the  great  river.  How  beautiful  the  Scripture  lan- 
guage about  “living  water,”  that  is,  not  standing 
pools,  but  running  streams,  than  which  there  is  no 
more  refreshing  and  beautiful  object  in  the  eastern 
countries.  Their  water  is  fresh  and  pure,  ever 
flowing,  and  free  to  all,  the  poor  and  the  rich ; 
while  in  the  tanks  or  pools,  and  in  the  cisterns  or 
wells,  the  water  is  usually  stagnant  and  extremely 
dirty ; and  frequently  is  accessible  only  to  a limited 
number.  God  is  our  fountain  of  “ living  water,” 
and  Christ  has  promised  his  Holy  Spirit  to  be  as 
“rivers  of  living  water.”  The  allusion,  we  may 
suppose,  is  to  the  flowing  streams  that  watered 
Palestine;  though  the  meaning  or  sense  relates  to 
higher  blessings  than  earth  can  afford. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  country  is 
as  flat  and  uninteresting  as  usual.  Here,  as  else- 
where, large  herds  of  buffaloes  are  to  be  seen 
grazing,  under  the  care  of  a few  poorly  clad  herds- 
men. These  animals  are  all  of  a dark  colour,  a 
good  deal  larger  than  the  common  cow,  with  semi- 
circular horns  projecting  backward  along  the  neck, 
and  not  so  crooked  as  those  of  a ram,  though 
resembling  them  in  other  respects.  The  buffaloes 
in  this  country  seem  to  take  as  much  pleasure  in 
wallowing  in  a pond  of  mud  and  water  as  the  less 
honoured  swine.  Frequently  in  passing  along,  a 
person  may  see  the  noses  and  horns  of  many  hun- 
dreds of  them  sticking  up  out  of  the  water,  in 
which  they  delight  to  remain  during  the  hot  part  of 
the  day.  They  are  used,  as  are  cows,  in  plough- 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  89 

ing,  harrowing,  and  carrying  burdens.  Their  milk 
also  is  much  used,  but  it  is  deemed  a coarser  fare 
than  that  of  the  cow. 

August  22. — Above  Bhagulpore,  we  left  the 
main  body  of  water  to  the  left,  and  passed  several 
miles  up  a channel  that  has  been  formed  within  a 
few  years,  and  which  is  much  more  direct.  It  is 
now  a large  river,  and  will  most  probably  become 
the  highway  of  the  Ganges  in  a few  years.  Owing 
to  the  kind  of  soil,  such  changes  are  constantly 
taking  place.  One  of  the  greatest  obstacles  to  the 
navigation  of  this  river  by  steamboats  is  the  con- 
stant changing  of  the  channel  and  formation  of  new 
sand  bars,  so  that  the  most  experienced  pilot  hardly 
knows  where  to  guide  his  vessel;  while  the  muddy 
nature  of  the  water  renders  useless  any  effort  to 
see  his  way.  By  having  left  the  principal  channel, 
I was  deprived  of  the  opportunity  of  seeing,  ex- 
cept at  a great  distance,  the  Rocks  of Two 

of  them  rise  up  out  of  the  channel  to  a considerable 
length ; and  are  not  only  remarkable  in  a river 
where  sameness  is  the  general  characteristic,  but 
form  rather  a dangerous  pass  for  boats,  as  the  cur- 
rent is  said  to  form  violent  eddies  around  them. 

Bhagulpore  is  an  English  civil  station;  that  is, 
it  is  the  residence  of  an  English  collector,  perhaps, 
judge,  surgeon,  and  probably  a few  other  officers, 
who  collect  the  revenue  of  the  district,  and  admin- 
ister justice.  Often  the  civil  and  military  stations 
are  at  the  same  place;  though  frequently  this  is 
not  the  case.  The  town  is  not  large,  but  presents 
a pleasing  appearance  at  the  distance  of  two  or 
three  miles,  from  which  I saw  it;  as  there  are  a 
number  of  large  houses,  and  the  situation  is  rather 
elevated. 

August  23. — A trifling  incident  attracted  my 


90  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

notice,  as  affording  an  illustration  of  the  spirit  of 
lying  which  pervades,  according  to  all  testimony, 
the  entire  Hindu  people.  Our  boat  was  moored 
with  several  others  in  the  same  place,  and  a num- 
ber of  men  were  busy  on  the  shore  preparing  their 
dinner.  A fowl  made  its  escape  from  the  coop  on 
one  of  the  boats,  and,  taking  its  flight  in  a little 
circle  in  the  presence  of  the  people,  happened  to 
alight  near  an  old  grey-headed  man,  who  was 
cleaving  wrood.  A boy  ran  after  this  stray  chicken 
to  bring  it  back,  when  the  old  man  ordered  him 
off,  roundly  asserting  that  the  fowl  was  his,  and 
had  escaped  from  his  boat;  though  he  was  a 
Hindu,  to  whom  it  would  have  been  worse  than 
death  to  have  eaten  the  unclean  bird  for  which  he 
was  so  willing  to  tell  a lie.  The  other  people  did 
not  give  up  their  right;  but  the  incident  seemed  to 
be  looked  on  as  a matter  of  course. 

August  25. — Have  made  little  progress  for  seve- 
ral days,  on  account  of  strong  current  and  no  wind. 
We  are  now  lying  below  Jangera,  one  of  the  few 
places  of  note  on  this  river.  It  is  remarkable  for 
two  large  rocks  which  project  out  some  distance 
into  the  river,  and  are  distant  from  each  other 
about  one  hundred  yards.  On  the  top  of  one  is 
built  a mosque,  and  on  the  other  a temple.  The 
former  is  now  in  ruins. 

August  26. — At  our  place  of  mooring  this  even- 
ing there  were  many  native  boats,  and  I counted 
nearly  a hundred  people  belonging  to  them.  Only 
one  man  among  them  all  could  read  the  tracts  I 
offered,  and  he  very  imperfectly;  and  yet  in  each 
boat  there  is  usually  one  or  two  respectable  men. 
These  boats  are  commonly  laden  with  return  car- 
goes of  various  native  goods  and  wares  from  Cal- 
cutta to  different  places  up  the  country.  The  head 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  91 

man  of  one  of  the  boats  came  to  tell  me  he  had 
some  English  goods  to  sell.  Feeling  a curiosity 
to  know  of  what  description  they  were,  I went  on 
board,  and  found  a box  of  old  Windsor  soap  and 
a cracked  bottle  of  arrow  root.  The  rest  of  his 
cargo  was  entirely  native.  The  chief  articles  in 
the  native  trade  seem  to  be  salt,  rice,  various  kinds 
of  pulse,  cotton,  coarse  cotton  fabrics,  sugar,  mus- 
tard, oil,  &c.  We  frequently  see  boats  laden  with 
earthen-ware  crocks;  and,  less  frequently  now  than 
lower  down,  many  boats  employed  in  carrying  the 
indigo  plant,  which  looks  somewhat  like  long 
coarse  grass,  to  the  nearest  factory.  Many  boats 
are  filled  with  European  stores  for  the  various  sta- 
tions up  the  country.  These  boats  are  always 
hired,  freighted,  and  insured  by  some  mercantile 
house  in  Calcutta. 

One  is  surprised  at  the  lowness  of  the  wages 
paid  to  the  boatmen.  It  is  indeed  wonderful  that 
they  can  live  and  support  their  families  on  such 
terms.  The  general  wages  are  three  rupees  per 
month  to  the  men,  equal  to  a dollar  and  a half  of 
American  money,  and  four  to  the  manjhe,  or  head 
man;  out  of  which  they  must  purchase  their  own 
food  and  clothing,  and  pay  all  their  expenses  of 
every  kind ; as  they  have  no  other  means  of  sup- 
port. And  although  these  poor  fellows  work  at  a 
great  disadvantage,  on  account  of  their  very  awk- 
ward boats,  and  still  more  rude  means  of  propelling 
them ; yet,  bating  something  for  the  irregular  habits 
of  heathen,  I have  scarcely  ever  seen  harder  work- 
ing men.  I almost  daily  see  them  working  from 
sunrise  until  sunset,  pulling,  pushing,  wading  some- 
times in  mud,  often  in  water  above  their  waist, 
exposed  all  the  time  to  an  intensely  hot  sun ; and 
their  only  reward  is  a pittance  which  enables  them 


92  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

to  buy  their  rice  to  eat,  and  their  tobacco  or  their 
opium  to  smoke  in  their  huka,  and  perhaps  once 
in  six  months,  a kapra  for  a new  suit  of  clothes; 
that  is,  a piece  of  coarse  cotton  muslin,  two  or 
three  yards  long  by  three-fourths  of  a yard  wide. 
The  boatmen  of  the  Ganges  deserve  great  com- 
miseration. They  are  a peaceful,  hard-working, 
and  obliging  race;  but  they  are  compelled  to  live 
nearly  at  the  lowest  point  of  human  subsistence. 
Their  minds  are  perfectly  blank  as  to  all  elevating 
knowledge;  their  morals  are  what  might  be  ex- 
pected, where  human  nature  is  left  utterly  unillu- 
minated by  the  Gospel,  and  uncultivated  by  good 
agency  of  any  kind ; and  their  prospects  as  to  the 
future  world  afford  nothing  whatever  to  support 
them  under  the  hardships,  or  comfort  them  under 
the  sorrows,  of  their  existence  in  this  life. 

Jlugust  27. — Reached  Munghir.  For  the  last 
eight  or  ten  miles,  the  river  has  been  separated  into 
various  channels,  so  that,  at  the  place  where  we 
were  moored  last  night,  the  broadest  was  not  more 
than  a quarter  of  a mile.  Just  before  reaching 
this  town,  the  new  iron  steamboat,  which  was 
launched  a few  months  ago  at  Calcutta,  passed  the 
budgerow,  bound  to  Allahabad.  This  is  said  to 
be  the  second  time  a steamer  has  attempted  to 
ascend  any  distance  on  the  Ganges,  and  the  first 
attempt  to  go  up  so  great  a distance.  I have 
already  mentioned  some  of  the  difficulties  attend- 
ing the  navigation  of  this  river.  It  is  thought 
rather  doubtful  by  many,  whether  the  efforts  now 
making  to  introduce  steamboats,  will  prove  very 
successful.  This  vessel  moves  at  rather  a slow 
rate  against  the  current.  But  it  is  a small-sized 
boat,  and  has  in  tow  a baggage-boat,  as  large  as  the 
steamer  itself. 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  93 


Munghi'r  presents  a very  pleasing  appearance,  as 
a person  approaches  it  from  the  river.  It  stands 
on  a kind  of  promontory,  at  the  south-east  ex- 
tremity of  an  island  formed  by  the  river,  and  its 
situation  is  elevated — an  advantage  possessed  by 
few  Indian  towns.  It  was  formerly  a place  of  con- 
siderable strength,  in  the  wars  between  native 
kings ; and  the  extensive  walls  of  the  fort,  which 
are  yet  remaining,  must  have  proved  almost  im- 
pregnable to  a native  army.  Its  aspect  now  is 
more  peaceful  and  more  pleasing,  as  the  fort  has 
been  allowed  to  go  to  decay,  and  some  good  look- 
ing European  houses  have  been  erected  on  the  high 
knolls  in  its  enclosure;  while  the  native  town 
seems  to  be  prospering,  and  the  people  to  be  driv- 
ing an  active  business  in  the  various  kinds  of  iron 
manufactures,  for  which  this  place  has  long  been 
celebrated.  Fowling-pieces,  pistols,  kettles,  knives, 
&c  , are  made  with  great  neatness,  and  at  low 
prices,  but  are  said  to  be  apt  to  break,  on  account 
of  the  bad  materials  from  which  they  are  made. 

There  is  a branch  of  the  Baptist  mission  at  this 
place,  and  two  Baptist  missionaries,  with  their 
families.  One  of  them  is  actively  employed  in 
various  efforts  to  extend  the  Gospel  among  the 
heathen,  and  has  a small  church  of  native  converts 
— about  twenty,  I think  he  told  me.  There  is  also 
an  English  service  on  Sundays,  and  on  one  or  two 
evenings  during  the  week.  Munghir  is  two  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  miles  by  land  from  Calcutta, 
and  probably  four  hundred  miles  by  the  river. 

August  30. — A few  miles  below  Bahar.  We 
are  fully  entered  into  the  great  plain  of  Hindus- 
than,  or  Hindusthan  Proper.  A pleasing  range  of 
hills,  the  Gorruckpore,  were  in  sight  the  two  first 
days  after  leaving  Munghir.  But  now,  I may  bid 


94  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

farewell  to  hills  for  many  hundred  miles  to  come. 
The  banks  of  the  river  have  presented  an  almost 
continuous  succession  of  villages;  and  the  people 
are  a hardier  and  more  manly  looking  race  than 
the  Bengali's.  The  province  of  Bahar,  which 
forms  the  western  boundary  of  Bengal,  is  one  of 
the  largest  in  this  Presidency.  The  soil  is  of  a 
drier  nature,  and  the  climate  is  said  to  be  more 
temperate,  than  in  Bengal,  though  the  hot  winds 
from  the  westward  extend  over  part  of  this  pro- 
vince. In  some  parts  the  proportion  between  the 
Mussulmans  and  Hindus  is  one  of  the  former  to 
three  of  the  latter.  The  celebrated  place  of  Hindu 
pilgrimage,  Guya,  is  in  the  south  part  of  this  pro- 
vince, about  fifty  miles  south  from  Patna.  For- 
merly the  East  India  Company  collected  an  annual 
sum  equal  to  eighty  thousand  dollars,  from  a small 
tax  on  each  pilgrim.  It  derives  its  holiness  from 
having  been  the  birth-place  of  some  of  the  gods. 
This  is  the  chief  region  of  the  opium  and  saltpetre 
manufactures ; and  instead  of  the  immense  fields 
of  rice  which  tire  the  eye  in  Bengal,  we  now  begin 
to  see  wheat  and  barley.  The  town  of  Bahar,  or 
Bar,  is  an  old  and  ruinous  looking  place,  but  of 
considerable  size,  thirty-five  miles  south-east  from 
Patna. 

September  1. — Plaving  had  a fine  wind,  and  the 
course  of  the  river  being  very  direct  from  Bar,  I 
reached  Patna  this  morning — about  three  hundred 
and  seventy  miles  by  land,  and  five  hundred  or 
five  hundred  and  fifty  by  water,  from  Calcutta. 
The  appearance  of  this  city  from  the  river  is  cer- 
tainly superior  to  that  of  most  India  towns  I have 
yet  seen.  It  is  built  chiefly  along  one  street,  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  river  which  is  here  more 
than  usually  elevated  above  the  water;  and  many 


VOYAGE  ON  TUE  GANGES  CONTINUED.  95 

of  the  houses  are  quite  large,  constructed  of  brick, 
and  abutting  on  the  river.  Yet  a nearer  view 
shows  that  many  of  the  buildings  are  going  to  ruin, 
while  scarcely  any  of  them  are  in  a better  style 
than  what  is  seen  in  Hindu  buildings  elsewhere. 
The  population  is  variously  estimated.  Probably 
it  is  not  less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand. 
The  number  is  so  large  that  the  city  extends  six 
or  seven  miles  along  the  river;  though  in  no  part 
is  the  width  perhaps  more  than  half  or  three  fourths 
of  a mile.  Among  the  manufactures  of  this  city, 
a kind  of  cloth  resembling  diaper  and  damask 
linens,  and  wax  candles,  are  of  most  note  in  other 
parts  of  India.  The  Company  have  some  of  their 
depots  for  opium  at  this  place;  of  which  article, 
as  of  salt,  they  retain  the  monopoly. 

There  are  two  missionaries  at  Patna;  one  a very 
devoted,  interesting  gentleman  of  fortune  who  is 
not  in  connexion  with  any  society;  the  other  a 
Baptist.  Neither  of  them  has  been  very  long  here, 
and  they  have  not  as  yet  had  the  privilege  of  see- 
ing any  converts  from  among  the  Heathen.  The 
Sikhs  have  a place  of  worship  at  Patna  of  con- 
siderable repute.  It  would  be  interesting  to  ascer- 
tain how  this  solitary  branch  of  that  religion  was 
planted  so  far  from  the  parent  stock.  After  stay- 
ing a few  hours  with  a kind  Christian  family  to 
whom  I had  letters,  and  where  I had  the  additional 
pleasure  of  meeting  the  former  mentioned  mission- 
ary, I started  again  in  the  afternoon,  and  made  a 
few  miles,  mooring  for  the  night  opposite  to  Ban- 
kipur. 

September  2. — Passing  Bankipur,  where  the 
civil  servants  of  the  Company,  engaged  in  admin- 
istering justice  and  collecting  the  revenue,  chiefly 
reside,  and  then  passing  Dighah,  I stopped  be- 


9G  VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

tween  the  latter  place  and  Dinapore,  and  spent  the 
rest  of  the  day  with  another  Baptist  missionary 
who  is  stationed  at  this  place.  Here  I enjoyed  the 
satisfaction  of  much  Christian  intercourse  with  this 
family  and  the  other  Baptist  missionary  who  had 
come  to  spend  the  day  with  them.  These  breth- 
ren, in  addition  to  their  duties  among  the  Heathen 
in  preaching  or  talking  to  them  and  distributing 
tracts,  have  each  an  English  service  attended  by 
some  of  the  Europeans  or  others  who  speak  Eng- 
lish. Patna,  Bankipur,  Dighah,  and  Dinapore  form 
an  almost  continuous  city  of  twelve  or  fifteen  miles 
in  length.  Dighah  is  a considerable  village,  and 
Dinapore,  the  scene  of  Henry  Martyn’s  pious  la- 
bours, is  one  of  the  largest  military  stations;  and 
has  also  a native  population  of  probably  fifteen 
or  twenty  thousand.  There  is  usually  a King’s 
regiment  European,  a Company’s,  and  a large 
artillery  detachment,  at  this  post,  who  have  fine 
substantial  barracks.  The  church  also  makes  a 
good  appearance.  With  the  chaplain  I did  not 
become  acquainted.  From  all  I have  heard,  reli- 
gious matters  are  in  a condition  but  little  if  any 
better  than  when  the  faithful  Martyn  was  here, 
or  than  is  described  in  the  Journal  of  Bishop 
Heber. 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED.  97 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 

Rivers  and  towns — Attar  of  Roses — Danger  from  falling 
banks — Benares — Allahabad,  example  of  fatal  supersti- 
tion— Review  of  the  river  journey — Ddk  travelling — 
Agra — Delhi — Arrive  at  Lodiana. 

September  3. — This  morning,  there  was  a fine 
breeze  which  raised  quite  a sea  in  the  broad  ex- 
panse of  water  over  which  we  sailed.  The  river 
is  here  several  miles  wide  at  this  season.  In  the 
course  of  to-day’s  sail,  we  passed  the  mouths  of 
three  large  rivers  which  enter  the  Ganges;  the 
Gunduk  which  is  said  to  take  its  rise  in  Thibet, 
and  in  whose  waters  the  stricter  Hindus  are  for- 
bidden to  bathe;  the  Gogra,  also  from  the  Hima- 
laya mountains,  after  a course  of  five  hundred 
miles;  and  the  Soane,  from  the  south,  after  an 
equally  long  journey.  But,  owing  to  the  lowness 
of  the  banks,  and  the  extent  to  which  the  waters 
are  spread  over  the  face  of  the  country,  I could  not 
distinguish  the  places  where  their  streams  unite 
with  the  great  river. 

About  twenty  miles  above  Dinapore,  we  passed 
Chaprah,  a fine  looking  native  town,  of  some  thirty 
thousand  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  river.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Saran, 
in  the  province  of  Bahar,  and  is  the  residence  of 
an  English  magistrate,  a collector,  and  perhaps  a 
surgeon.  This  town  presents  many  advantages 
as  a situation  for  a mission  family.  The  district 
of  which  it  is  the  chief  town  contains  twenty-five 
hundred  square  miles,  and  its  population  in  1801 
9 


98  JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 

was  estimated  by  the  Governor-General  from  reve- 
nue statistics  at  one  million  two  hundred  thousand. 
Probably,  the  number  at  present  is  not  less  than  a 
million  and  a half. 

September  4. — In  the  evening,  reached  Buxar 
where  there  is  a dismantled  fort,  the  situation  of 
which  completely  commands  the  river,  contracted 
here  to  a litde  more  than  a quarter  of  a mile  in 
width.  Buxar  is  one  of  the  stations  for  invalid 
soldiers;  of  whom  there  is  always  a considerable 
number  under  proper  officers.  It  is  also  one  of 
the  places  where  the  Company  have  an  establish- 
ment for  rearing  horses  for  the  cavalry.  The  na- 
tive town  is  quite  large,  and  said  to  be  chiefly 
composed  of  Mussulmans. 

September  5. — Passed  to-day  the  mouth  of  the 
Karamnasa  river,  said  to  be  a small  winding  stream. 
For  the  reason  which  prevented  my  seeing  the 
place  of  junction  of  the  Soane,  I did  not  enjoy  the 
gratification  of  seeing  that  of  this  river  with  the 
Ganges.  The  banks  of  the  Ganges  are  now  higher, 
the  trees  scarcer,  and  the  innumerable  villages 
more  uniformly  characterized  by  having  a tope  or 
grove  of  mango  trees  in  their  immediate  vicinity. 

September  8. — On  the  evening  of  the  sixth,  I 
reached  Ghazeepore  and  stayed  the  Sunday  with 
the  chaplain,  a pious  amiable  and  excellent  man; 
in  whose  family  I had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  two 
or  three  pious  officers,  connected  with  the  military 
at  this  station.  This  is  both  a military  and  a civil 
station.  As  there  is  usually  a regiment  of  Eu- 
ropean soldiers  in  the  barracks,  there  is  a chaplain 
and  a church.  But  for  the  service  of  the  natives 
(and  the  population  must  amount  to  many  thou- 
sands, perhaps  fifty  thousand,  there  is  neither  mis- 
sionary nor  any  kind  of  agency  employed.  This  | 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED.  99 

is  an  important  station  fora  mission  family ; as 
there  are  no  missionaries  nearer  than  Benares, 
which  is  forty  miles  distant,  while  the  population 
of  this  district  is  as  dense  as  usual.  The  town  is 
considered  one  of  the  most  healthy  in  India,  which 
I should  think  very  probable  from  the  high  open 
ground  on  which  it  stands.  Of  the  native  inhabi- 
tants rather  a large  portion  are  Mussulmans;  but 
in  the  country  they  do  not  average  more  than  one 
eighth  of  the  people.  The  character  of  the  people 
of  this  town  is  rather  unfavourably  noted.  They 
are  spoken  of  as  lawless  and  ready  for  acts  of  vio- 
lence. 

The  country  around  is  extensively  covered  with 
rose  bushes,  which  are  cultivated  for  the  purpose 
of  manufacturing  rose  water,  and  the  famous  attar 
I of  roses.  To  produce  a quantity  of  the  latter  equal 
in  weight  to  rather  less  than  half  an  ounce,  it  is 
said  that  twenty  thousand  grown  roses  are  requir- 
ed, and  the  price  of  that  quantity  is  about  fifty 
dollars.  The  attar  is  obtained  by  skimming  off 
the  oil  which  is  found  on  the  surface  of  the  rose 
water  after  being  exposed  all  night  to  the  open  air. 

To-day,  we  got  under  sail  again  ; but  the  wind 
being  very  light,  and  the  current  very  strong,  the 
men  were  soon  obliged  to  go  on  shore  with  the 
rope.  We  had  several  times  the  opportunity  of 
seeing  one  of  the  most  common  kinds  of  danger  to 
vessels  in  these  Upper  Provinces.  The  banks  are 
frequently  high  and  often  crumbling  and  ready  to 
fall  into  the  water.  By  the  tow  rope  the  boat  is 
dragged  close  to  the  bank,  whilst  the  heavy  tramp 
of  the  men  in  pulling,  and  the  rubbing  of  the  rope 
on  the  edge  of  the  bank,  are  very  apt  to  detach 
large  masses  of  ground.  The  danger  is,  that  they 
may  fall  on  the  top  of  the  poor  boat;  in  which 


100  JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 

case  it  would  almost  certainly  founder.  This 
afternoon,  the  risk  appeared  so  great  that  I felt  it 
a duty  to  leave  the  boat  and  walk  some  miles. 
Providentially,  the  sun  was  covered  with  clouds, 
so  that  I did  not  experience  the  evil  influence  which 
invariably  attends  exposure  to  his  rays  at  this  sea- 
son of  the  year. 

September  9. — Passed  a Conductor’s  fleet  of 
boats,  some  thirty  or  forty,  carrying  military  stores 
to  different  stations  of  the  army.  Passed  also 
the  native  town  of  Seidpur,  a place  of  some  busi- 
ness. No  incidents  of  much  interest  occurred. 

September  11. — Reached  the  far-famed  city  Be- 
nares. The  appearance  of  this  city  is  certainly 
very  fine,  as  one  approaches  it  on  the  river.  It 
stands  on  a high  bank,  perhaps  thirty  feet  higher 
than  the  water,  on  the  outer  circumference  of  a 
semicircular  sweep  which  the  river  here  makes  of 
some  three  or  four  miles ; so  that,  at  one  glance,  a 
person  can  see  to  good  advantage,  the  entire  river- 
view  of  the  city.  This  view  is  probably  quite 
unique,  without  any  thing  to  resemble  it,  much 
less  to  rival  it,  in  the  world.  The  houses  are 
built  close  to  the  edges  of  the  bank.  Numerous 
temples  stand  also  on  the  same  eminence,  while 
many  ghats,  or  landing  places,  of  stone-steps,  lead- 
ing from  the  water  up  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  some 
of  them  very  large,  are  covered  with  crowds  of 
worshippers  bathing  or  washing  in  the  holy  river. 

But  it  is  in  the  city  itself  that  a person  sees  how 
entirely  it  is  “ given  to  idolatry.”  The  streets 
are  so  narrow  that  neither  carriage  nor  horse  can 
enter;  at  least,  it  is  not  expedient  to  attempt  pene- 
trating them  on  horse-back ; and,  in  a carriage,  it 
is  impracticable  to  do  so.  Then,  as  the  houses  are 
very  high,  never  less  than  two  stories,  but  more 


JOURNEY  TO  LODI  ANA  CONTINUED.  101 

frequently  five  or  six,  there  is  an  air  of  gloomy 
seriousness,  befitting  a holy  place  of  such  a reli- 
gion. At  every  corner  and  turn,  the  eye  sees 
temples  and  pagodas,  of  all  sizes,  and  of  every 
kind  of  structure.  In  the  streets  many  fat,  lazy, 
tame  Brahminy  bulls  are  moving  about  at  their 
leisure  ; and  beggars,  and  devotees,  and  Brahmans, 
are  not  less  numerous.  The  walls  of  the  houses 
often  present  rude  paintings  of  the  different  gods 
and  goddesses  ; their  various  transformations  and 
exploits,  with  their  many  arms  and  weapons  ; and, 
in  the  raised  narrow  projections,  at  the  doors  of 
the  houses,  and  in  the  inner  corners  of  the  streets, 
are  sitting  numerous  persons,  selling  flowers  and 
beads  for  the  accommodation  of  the  multitude  of 
worshippers.  In  the  temples  there  are  always 
various  Brahmans;  some  reading  in  loud,  chanting 
tones,  the  shasters  ; others,  besmearing  the  obscene 
lingo,  with  oil,  and  decorating  it  with  flowers ; 
others,  pouring  libations  of  holy  water  from  the 
Ganges  on  the  idols,  and  on  different  places  in  the 
temple;  while  not  unfrequently  a crowd  of  holy 
beggars,  looking  like  demons  through  chalk  and 
cow-dung,  make  a person  almost  deaf  with  their 
incessant  repetition  of  Ram  ! Ram  ! Ram  ! 

Benares  is  held  sacred  for  ten  miles  around, 
though  particular  places  in  it  are  accounted  pecu- 
liarly holy.  One  visit  to  this  city  secures  for  the 
pilgrim  a certain  admission  into  heaven.  Many 
resort  here  from  all  parts  of  India,  to  finish  their 
days;  and  so  great  is  the  opinion  of  its  holiness, 
that  many  Rajahs  have  vakels,  or  delegates,  resid- 
ing here,  to  perform  for  them  the  requisite  cere- 
monies and  ablutions.  It  is  said  that  within  this 
city  are  a million  of  images  of  the  lingo.  If  true, 
or  even  near  the  truth,  this  estimate  conveys  a 


102  JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 

most  mournful  idea  of  the  state  of  morals. — The 
mosque  built  by  Aurangzebe  is  the  highest  edifice, 
the  minarets  being  upwards  of  two  hundred  feet 
high.  It  was  built  to  mortify  the  Hindus,  and  is 
erected  on  the  site  of  one  of  their  most  holy  tem- 
ples. The  view  from  the  top  is  very  extensive 
and  interesting. 

Among  the  various  buildings  of  some  interest  is 
an  old  Observatory,  where  may  be  seen  a large 
gnomon  of  stone  and  some  other  instruments.  Be- 
nares is  not  merely  the  Jerusalem  of  the  Hindus ; 
it  is  also  their  Athens.  There  are  many  private 
schools  in  which  Sanscrit  is  studied  under  learned 
Brahman  Pandits,  who  are  supported  by  native 
princes  and  other  wealthy  Hindus.  There  is  also  a 
Hindu  College,  in  which  are  taught  the  various 
branches  of  Hindu  learning,  not  even  excepting 
astrology,  nor  the  astronomy  of  Ptolemy,  nor  the 
geography  which  teaches  that  the  earth  is  sup- 
ported by  the  tortoise  “ chakwa,”  and  that  Mount 
Meru,  standing  in  the  centre  of  the  vast  plain 
which  forms  the  earth’s  surface,  supports  the  va- 
rious heavens.  It  is  said  to  have  eight  or  ten  pro- 
fessors and  about  two  hundred  students.  The 
superintendent  is  an  European. 

The  population  has  been  estimated  at  upwards 
of  five  hundred  thousand ; but  various  persons, 
with  whom  I conversed,  supposed  that  it  does  not 
exceed  three  hundred  thousand.  At  particular  fes- 
tivals the  concourse  is  great  beyond  any  compu- 
tation. The  European  residents  live  in  Secrole, 
one  of  the  suburbs  about  three  miles  distant  from 
the  chief  part  of  the  city.  There  is  also  a regiment 
of  sepoys  stationed  there,  and  a chaplain. 

There  are  seven  missionaries  at  this  city;  three 
under  the  Church  Society,  and  one  superintendent 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED.  103 

of  a large  English  and  Persian  school,  founded  by 
a weahhy  native,  but  committed  to  the  manage- 
ment of  that  Society;  three  from  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society,  who  have  a small  chapel  and 
stated  service  in  the  city;  and  one  from  the  Se- 
rampore  Baptist  Society,  who  resides  in  the  city, 
and  has  a room  in  his  own  house  fitted  for  a 
chapel.  Usually  these  brethren  go  every  day  to 
the  city,  and  talk  with  the  people,  and  give  reli- 
gious books  and  tracts  to  those  who,  they  think, 
will  make  a good  use  of  them.  Though  they  have 
not  yet  had  any  conversions,  they  all  say  that  they 
are  heard  with  more  attention  and  seriousness  now 
than  a few  years  ago. 

Above  Benares  no  regular  journal  was  kept, 
and  I shall  give  some  notices  of  the  remainder 
of  the  journey  from  letters  written  at  that  time. 
Passing  Chunar,  Mirzapore,  and  other  native 
towns,  I reached  Allahabad  on  the  23d  of  Septem- 
ber. From  a letter  written  on  the  next  day  to  the 
Secretary  of  the  Society,  the  following  extract  is 
made : 

The  junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna,  you 
know,  is  regarded  by  the  Hindus  as  one  of  the 
most  holy  places  in  the  sacred  river. — As  the 
Jumna  is  not,  I believe,  an  object  of  worship,  I 
hardly  know  how  the  opinion  has  originated  that 
the  god  Gunga,  or  Ganges,  should  derive  an  ac- 
cession of  holiness  from  the  union  with  that  river. 
Nor  is  there  any  thing  in  the  natural  scenery  of 
the  place  peculiarly  impressive.  The  country  is 
level  on  both  sides,  though  not  so  flat  as  in  Bengal, 
and  the  two  rivers  unite  without  occasioning,  even 
at  this  season  when  both  are  much  swollen,  any 
great  noise  or  large  waves.  The  mind  always 
takes  an  interest  in  seeing  two  large  rivers  flowing 


104  JOURNEY  TO  LODI  AN  A CONTINUED. 

into  one,  but  apart  from  that,  there  is  not  so  much 
to  excite  ideas  of  power  in  the  junction  of  these 
rivers  as  of  the  Allegheny  and  Monongahela.  Till 
a few  years  ago  it  was  quite  common  for  the  de- 
luded worshippers,  many  of  them,  to  drown  them- 
selves at  this  place,  supposing  that  thereby  the 
possession  of  heaven  was  rendered  certain.  The 
boat  in  which  they  were  accustomed  to  go  to  the 
proper  place  to  take  their  departure,  came  at  last 
into  the  possession  of  an  old  woman,  some  time 
before  the  English  authorities  interfered  to  put  a 
stop  to  the  custom,  and  she  “by  that  craft  had  her 
wealth.”  Of  course  she  did  not  relish  a change 
which  would  take  away  her  income,  and  earnestly 
contended  that  people  had  a right  to  drown  them- 
selves if  they  pleased.  The  magistrate  was  firm, 
and  while  he  did  not  directly  oppose  the  custom, 
he  informed  all  concerned  that  he  should  punish 
with  death,  any  who  should,  in  any  way,  be  ac- 
cessary to  the  drowning  of  such  persons.  This 
simple  measure  brought  the  custom  to  an  end. 
This  occurred  but  a few  years  ago.  I could  not 
but  feel  sad  at  heart  while  sailing  over  the  place 
where  many  of  our  fellow  creatures  “ rushed  un- 
bidden” into  the  presence  of  their  final  Judge, 
hoping  to  secure  his  favour  by  an  act  of  sin,  as- 
sured of  heaven  while  on  the  way  to  a widely 
different  destiny.  And  though  the  practice  no 
longer  exists,  yet  the  creed  does  in  all  its  blighting 
influence.  Oh  soon  may  the  knowledge  of  the 
true  way  of  happiness  be  spread  amongst  this 
people!  Incidents  like  these  sacrifices,  and  like 
the  swinging  by  hooks  inserted  in  the  muscles  of 
the  back,  (of  which  I saw  an  example  last  spring.) 
would  seem  to  show  that  the  promptings  of  natu- 
ral conscience  are  very  strong,  even  where  great 


JOURNEY  TO  UODIANA  CONTINUED.  105 

ignorance  exists.  However,  much  may  be  ascrib- 
ed to  motives  of  vain  glory  in  the  applause  of  men, 
and  to  the  influence  of  stupefying  doses  of  opium  ; 
yet  the  foundation  of  these  customs  lies  much  deep- 
er. Their  origin  and  continued  existence  show 
that  the  witness,  which  God  has  created  in  the 
bosom  of  every  man,  (see  Acts  xiv.  17,  compared 
with  Rom.  i.  20,)  still  performs  its  duty.  Such 
proofs  of  the  power  of  natural  conscience,  I am  in- 
clined to  think,  should  encourage  missionaries  in 
their  addresses  to  the  heathen,  to  make  pointed  ap- 
peals to  it. 

From  Cawnpore,  where  the  river  part  of  the 
journey  was  ended  on  the  9th  of  October,  a letter 
was  sent  to  the  same  gentleman,  of  which  a part 
is  annexed: 

A journey  on  this  river  affords  many  opportu- 
nities of  usefulness  to  the  natives  on  the  part  of 
those  who  can  speak  the  language.  Villages  are 
thickly  studded  along  the  banks — often  many  boats 
are  moored  at  the  same  place  with  yours ; gene- 
rally during  day  light,  and  often  at  night  too,  the 
people  live  “ sub  dio,”  in  the  open  air,  and  are 
very  willing  to  attend  to  what  you  may  wish  to 
say,  and  to  receive  the  tracts  you  may  have  to 
give.  I greatly  regretted  that  I could  not  speak 
to  them  about  the  true  salvation.  However,  1 dis- 
tributed a good  many  tracts,  and  at  times  under 
circumstances  which  affected  my  mind  very  much. 
On  one  Sabbath,  a venerable  aged  Brahman,  the 
chief  man  in  the  village  where  I was  lying  to, 
came  to  ask  for  a tract.  He  could  not  read  him- 
self, but  said  he  would  get  his  little  grandson  to 
read  it  for  him,  and  he  listened  with  much  atten- 
tion while  I read  a few  pages.  In  coming  up  this 
river,  a person  should  have  some  Bengali,  and  as 
10 


106  JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 

many  Hindui  and  Hindustani'  tracts  as  he  can  ob- 
tain, and  also  separate  books  of  the  sacred  Scrip- 
tures. 

A journey  of  this  kind  affords  much  leisure  for 
personal  improvement.  The  time  is  hardly  ever 
less  than  two  months  and  a half,  often  three  months, 
during  which  but  little  occurs  commonly  to  pre- 
vent close  application  to  reading,  writing,  &c. 
Few  visits  or  calls  to  pay  or  to  receive,  few  news- 
papers to  spend  the  morning  over,  few  objects  of 
interest  in  the  scenery  around  : the  danger  is  rather 
that  of  too  much,  than  too  little  time  for  study. 
There  is  something  also  in  this  kind  of  life  to  aid 
in  a higher  kind  of  improvement  than  merely  men- 
tal— the  improvement  of  the  heart  in  piety.  Cer- 
tainly the  presence  of  so  many  visible  dangers,  and 
the  preserving  care  of  the  Lord,  so  often  too  ob- 
vious to  be  overlooked,  “ in  perils  of  waters — in 
perils  by  the  heathen,”  should  lead  to  unfeigned 
gratitude,  no  less  than  to  the  exercise  of  humble 
confidence  in  the  providence  and  grace  of  God, 
and  also  to  entire  consecration  to  his  service. 

There  are  few  objects  of  interest  to  be  seen  in 
a journey  on  this  river.  The  Raj-mahal,  and  the 
Gorruckpore  Hills,  and  the  city  of  Benares,  ap- 
peared to  me  more  interesting  than  any  thing 
else — the  former  by  reminding  me  of  our  “ love- 
ly native  land” — the  latter  because  so  perfectly 
unique,  for  I suppose  it  would  be  difficult  to  find 
another  city  with  so  many  features  peculiar  to  it- 
self. In  general,  the  country  is  very  level,  the 
banks  of  the  river  low  and  monotonous  in  appear- 
ance— the  river  itself  as  muddy  as  high  rivers 
usually  are,  and  less  impetuous,  and  apparently 
quite  unconscious  of  its  divine  character,  and 
equally  regardless  of  the  worship  it  receives.  As 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED.  107 

to  the  native  villages  and  towns,  when  you  have 
seen  one,  you  have  seen  a specimen  of  nearly  all. 
The  great  part  of  the  houses  are  low  mud  cottages, 
with  two  low  doors,  and  covered  with  thatch  com- 
ing so  low  down  in  front  as  to  form  a sort  of  ve- 
randa, or  open  portico.  Usually  they  have  a great 
many  low  shady  trees  planted  in  their  villages, 
and  one  or  two  large  peepul  trees,  a fine  shady 
species,  around  the  foot  of  which  a clay  platform 
is  erected,  and  there,  under  the  wide  spreading 
branches,  of  an  afternoon,  you  may  see  most  of 
the  respectable  villagers  smoking  their  hookas,  and 
probably  discussing  the  politics  and  news  of  the 
village.  These  are  the  places  for  a missionary  to 
take  his  station  at,  and  direct  their  thoughts  to  hea- 
venly themes.  If  he  were  prudent  and  kind  in  his 
manner,  he  would  hardly  ever  fail  to  obtain  a pa- 
tient, respectful  hearing.  One  is  much  struck  with 
the  good  taste  these  people  have  displayed  in 
choosing  the  sites  of  their  temples.  These  latter, 
in  the  country  and  in  villages,  are  commonly  small 
four,  six  or  eight  sided  buildings,  of  brick,  covered 
with  plaster,  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  sur- 
mounted by  a dome,  and  a short  spire.  They  have 
seldom  any  other  furniture  than  the  idol,  or  em- 
blems peculiar  to  the  particular  deity  worshipped, 
though  these  are  most  frequently  of  the  most  inde- 
cent description — too  much  so  to  be  named  openly, 
much  less  described.  But  I have  often  admired 
the  situation  of  the  temples.  Where  there  happens 
to  be  a high,  bold  bank  to  the  river,  you  will  very 
often  see  one  of  these  small  buildings  standing, 
white  and  conspicuous,  in  the  midst  of  two  or 
three  small  trees,  of  little  more  than  its  own  height. 
At  other  times  you  see  them  in  low  places,  under 
an  overspreading  peepul,  close  by  the  water’s  edge, 


108  JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 


with  a flight  of  steps,  leading  down  into  the  water. 
Perhaps  a fine  grove  of  open,  round-topped  trees, 
may  form  a back  view  of  peculiar  beauty,  and 
coolness  of  appearance  in  this  burning  sun.  One 
view  of  the  Hindu  temples  is  often  presented  to 
my  mind,  their  entire  want  of  any  thing  to  im- 
prove either  the  intellect  or  the  heart.  As  to  the 
latter  object,  every  association,  every  thought  awa- 
kened by  the  great  majority  of  heathen  temples,  is 
depraving , and  ruinous  to  the  soul.  But  as  to  the 
former,  the  most  that  any  of  these  places  of  wor- 
ship accomplish,  is  to  furnish  occasionally  a place 
for  the  reading  of  shastras,  which,  in  many  cases, 
neither  reader  or  hearer  understands.  But  even 
this  is  seldom  done — there  is  no  stated  assembling 
of  the  people  to  receive  instruction — there  is  nei- 
ther scribe  nor  teacher — neither  book  nor  manu- 
script. The  worshippers,  after  saying  over  by  rote 
some  dry  names  of  gods,  sprinkling  a little  water, 
and  offering,  perhaps,  a few  flowers  to  the  idol, 
and  if  a follower  of  Shiva,  daubing  his  face  with 
some  mud,  not  forgetting  sundry  ablutions  in  the 
Ganges,  when  the  temple  is  near  it — then  goes 
away  as  ignorant  as  he  came,  and  more  depraved. 

I ought  to  notice  one  other  feature  of  a journey 
on  this  river — the  intercourse  with  missionaries. 
At  Serampore,  Chinsurah,  Cutwa,  Berhampore, 
Monghyr,  Patna,  Digah,  Benares,  and  Buxar, 
there  are  missionaries,  either  of  the  Baptist,  Lon- 
don, or  Church  Societies.  It  is  necessary  to  stop 
at  most  of  these  places  to  obtain  provisions,  and 
the  Christian  kindness  of  these  good  people  is  very 
refreshing,  while  a knowledge  of  their  plans  and 
operations  and  experience  will  be  of  great  service. 
Every  where  I think  it  will  be  found  that  God  re- 
gards the  kind  of  heart  with  which  he  is  served 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED.  109 

more  than  the  kind  of  missionary  organization. 
Here  are  the  agents  of  voluntary  and  ecclesiastical 
societies — all  have  been  blessed,  and  the  former 
certainly  not  more  than  the  latter.  But  all  can 
labour  in  love — and  there  is  room  and  need  for  all, 
and  for  many  more. 

From  Cavvnpore  toLodiana  I proceeded  by  dak, 
or  in  a palanquin.  From  other  letters  I have  taken 
a few  notices  of  this  part  of  the  journey. 

Delhi , October  27. — At  Cawnpore,  I made  a 
new  disposal  of  my  goods  and  chattels;  putting 
them  on  three  hackeries,  or  rude  carts,  of  three 
oxen  each.  The  distance  thence  to  Lodiana  is 
about  five  hundred  miles ; and  the  expense  of 
transporting  them,  I think  will  be  considerably 
less  than  in  the  United  States  by  a similar  or  land 
conveyance.  As  for  myself,  I had  to  decide  on 
travelling  by  dak.  In  this  manner  one  goes  along, 
night  and  day,  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour. 

At  night,  a dak  traveller  presents  a singular  ap- 
pearance. Foremost  are  the  petarrah  walas,  or 
bundle-carriers;  of  whom  I have  three,  each  man 
carrying  two  bundles  of  twenty-five  pounds  each, 

I swung  at  the  ends  of  a stick  over  his  shoulder; 
who  walk  along  with  a peculiar  fast  gait.  Then 
comes  the  traveller  in  his  palanquin,  borne  by  four 
men,  who,  at  every  step  make  a peculiar  unpleas- 
ant sound  by  way  of  music ; while  four  others  run 
by  their  side,  and  thus  relieve  each  other  about 
once  in  every  five  minutes.  But  the  most  singu- 
lar appendage  is  the  mussatc/u,  or  torch-bearer, 
who  runs  along  before,  carrying  a large  torch, 
on  which  he  pours  oil  every  few  minutes,  making 
a fine  light.  Every  ten  or  twelve  miles,  a fresh  set 
of  men  are  stationed,  to  relieve  the  preceding  set. 
The  chief  difficulty  in  this  mode  of  travelling  is  its 


110  JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 

irksomeness  from  always  lying  in  the  same  position. 
Persons  who  cannot  sleep  at  night,  are  seldom  able 
to  endure  the  fatigue.  But  I got  along  finely,  sleep- 
ing as  well  as  usual,  until,  at  the  end  of  their  stages, 
the  bearers  would  awake  me  for  their  bakshish,  or 
usual  present  of  a few  anas.  From  Cawnpore  to 
Agra  is  about  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles;  which 
distance  I made  in  fifty  hours ; and  from  Agra  to 
Delhi,  I was  thirty-seven  hours  in  coming. 

Agra  and  Delhi  are  the  two  chief  cities  of  Up- 
per India;  and  are  the  richest  in  memorials  of 
former  greatness  that  I have  ever  seen.  The  Taj, 
at  Agra,  is  a wonderfully  chaste  and  beautiful 
structure.  It  is  built  of  polished  white  marble 
having  four  minarets  or  towers,  at  the  four  corners 
of  the  white  marble  terrace,  on  the  centre  of  which 
the  main  building  stands;  and  is  approached 
through  a delightful  garden.  Perhaps  the  feature, 
which  attracts  chief  attention  in  the  interior  of  the 
Taj,  is  the  mosaic-work,  or  inlaying  of  cornelian, 
and  other  valuable  stones,  in  the  shape  of  flowers 
and  vines,  of  great  variety  in  figure  and  delicacy 
of  colouring.  T wo  richly  finished  tornbs,  in  what 
might  almost  be  called  the  cellar,  but  which  have 
corresponding  tombs  in  the  chief  apartments,  di- 
rectly above  the  lower  ones,  where  the  bodies  are 
deposited,  contain  the  only  inhabitants  of  this 
wonderful  edifice.  Their  glory  has  passed  away; 
even  their  names  are  nearly  forgotten ; while  as 
to  their  present  condition,  the  multitude  of  extracts 
from  the  Koran,  inlaid  over  the  walls,  afford  little 
ground  of  hope,  that  they  look  back  on  their  earth- 
ly splendour,  or  on  the  sepulchral  slate  of  their 
clay- tabernacles,  with  any  rejoicing.  The  Taj 
was  erected  by  a former  king,  Shah  Jehan,  in 
memory  of  a favourite  wife;  and  when  he  died 
his  remains  were  entombed  by  her  side. 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED.  Ill 


The  fort  at  Agra,  containing  a palace  and  a 
mosque  of  white  marble  also,  is  well  worth  see- 
ing; as  are  some  other  tombs.  So,  at  this  city, 
there  are  several  mosques  and  public  buildings  of 
great  interest.  At  Delhi,  these  buildings  are  larger, 
but  not  perhaps  so  highly  finished,  as  at  Agra. 
The  principal  masjid,  or  Mohammedan  temple,  in 
this  city,  is  built  of  a kind  of  free  stone.  These 
Mohammedan  buildings,  the  Taj  and  mosques  at 
Agra,  and  the  mosques  at  Delhi,  are  generally  con- 
structed on  the  same  principles  of  architecture ; 
which  indeed  seem  to  characterize  all  Moham- 
medan public  buildings.  You  have  a noble  ter- 
race, with  perhaps  some  fine  reservoirs  of  water. 
Then  in  the  centre  of  the  terrace  stands  the  main 
building,  surmounted  invariably  by  one  dome; 
sometimes  by  more,  with  short  gilded  spires; 
while  at  two  of  the  corners  of  the  terrace,  and 
sometimes  at  all  the  four,  lofty  minarets  or  towers 
arise,  either  in  an  octagonal  or  circular  form,  and 
usually  very  lofty.  At  Benares,  two  are  upwards 
of  two  hundred  feet  high;  at  Agra,  the  four  of  the 
Taj  are  about  the  same  height,  and  perhaps  some 
of  the  minarets  here  are  nearly  as  lofty.  They  are 
generally  surmounted  by  an  open  cupola. 

I went  through  the  palace  in  this  city,  in  which 
all  that  remains  of  the  former  splendid  Mogul 
royalty  now  resides.  Some  of  the  buildings  in 
it  are  very  fine,  with  beautiful  mosaic  work,  but 
there  is  always  a strange  combination,  in  these 
eastern  countries,  of  greatness  and  meanness  in 
their  Dublic  works,  as  in  other  things.  The  great 
hall  of  audience,  for  example,  with  its  large  court, 
where  suppliant  kings  and  ambassadors  formerly 
kneeled  in  profound  humility,  is  the  next  in  series 
to  a stable  yard,  from  which  it  is  separated  only  by 


112  JOURNEY  TO  EODIANA  CONTINUED. 

a single  large  gate ! The  throne,  whence  Aureng- 
zebe  gave  laws  to  millions,  is  ascended  by  a dark, 
narrow  flight  of  rough  stone  steps ; though  there 
was  another  and  better  entrance  to  it,  which  is  now 
walled  up.  The  throne  itself  is  now  covered  with 
defilement,  while  the  hall  of  audience  is  lumbered 
up  with  old  palanquins,  worn  out  carriages,  &c. 
The  present  Mogul  Emperor  has  no  authority  out 
of  the  palace,  and  seems  to  care  little  about  its  in- 
terior appearance,  provided  he  may  have  plenty  to 
eat.  The  English  treat  him  with  great  respect ; 
which  is  perhaps  the  reason  that  so  little  care  is 
given  to  keeping  things  in  better  order.  If  the 
palace  were  entirely  theirs,  there  is  little  doubt 
that  their  liberal  policy  would  secure  the  careful 
preservation  of  these  remains  of  the  former  great- 
ness of  the  Mogul  dominion. 

The  missionary  here  is  Mr.  Thompson;  a good, 
intelligent,  judicious  man,  of  considerable  enter- 
prise, and  much  respected  by  the  English  people. 
He  has  been  seventeen  years  at  this  city — speaks 
the  language,  of  course,  as  his  mother  tongue,  with 
perfect  fluency  ; and  is  very  diligent.  The  Lord 
has  granted  him  to  see  some  few  converts  from 
the  heathen.  He  was  once  at  Lodiana,  and  has 
travelled  much  on  missionary  tours  in  Upper 
India ; so  I was  very  glad  to  hear  him  say  that  he 
considered  our  field  of  labour  the  finest  in  India. 

I went  about  fourteen  miles,  all  the  way  through 
the  ruins  of  the  old  city,  to  see  the  Kutab,  an  im- 
mense tower  of  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  in 
height.  The  view  from  the  top  of  it  is  very  sin- 
gular, and  full  of  mournful  interest.  For  miles 
and  miles  around,  you  see  scarcely  any  thing  but 
the  ruins  of  former  greatness — one  dilapidated 
palace,  or  mosque,  or  tomb,  after  another,  rises  in 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED.  113 

the  view,  till  you  are  almost  oppressed  at  seeing 
such  manifold  evidences  of  the  feebleness  of  man. 
The  river  Jumna  terminates  the  view  in  one  direc- 
tion; and,  though  here  but  a narrow  stream,  is  yet 
a perpetual  witness  of  the  power  of  God  in  his 
works,  who  can  preserve  as  well  as  create.  * * * 

November  5. — After  leaving  Kurnal,  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles  north  of  Delhi,  I entered 
the  territory  of  the  Protected  Sikh  States.  There 
is  nothing,  however,  in  the  appearance  of  the 
towns,  or  in  the  state  of  cultivation,  to  show  the 
traveller  that  he  has  left  the  Company’s  territory. 
Enjoying  the  protection  of  British  influence,  this 
region  seems  to  enjoy  all  the  same  peace  and  de- 
gree of  prosperity  that  distinguish  English  from 
Native  rule  in  these  parts  of  the  earth.  But  from 
Cawnpore,  but  especially  from  Delhi,  it  is  easy  to 
see  that  the  inhabitants  are  a more  energetic,  war- 
like people,  than  those  of  the  lower  provinces. 
You  meet  many,  perhaps  most,  native  travellers, 
armed  with  swords,  spears,  or  match-locks — some- 
times with  all  these  weapons.  They  are  large, 
strongly  built  men,  with  prodigious  beards  com- 
monly; and  often  look  savage  enough;  but  are  in 
fact  very  peaceable,  I believe,  if  not  molested. 

Northward  of  Delhi,  the  soil  of  the  country  is 
very  sandy,  and  under  only  partial  cultivation. 
There  are  few  trees,  except  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  towns.  The  inhabitants  do  not  live,  as  we 
should  say,  “ in  the  country  ;”  but  nearly  all  dwell 
in  large  towns,  which  are  usually  walled.  This 
circumstance,  in  connexion  with  the  common  prac- 
tice of  carrying  arms,  indicates  that  the  state  of 
the  country  has  formerly  been  very  unsettled; 
which  indeed  was  the  case.  But  we  may  hope, 
those  days  have  passed  away,  and  that  the  times 


114  JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 

of  peace  which  have  succeeded  will  afford  oppor- 
tunity to  introduce  the  peaceful  reign  of  our  Sa- 
viour. 

Thus  the  first  post  of  our  future  duty  was 
reached  on  the  5th  of  November,  1834,  about 
eighteen  months  after  leaving  Philadelphia.  And 
it  serves  to  give  a striking  illustration  of  the  man- 
ner in  which  distant  places  have  been  connected 
with  each  other,  by  the  providence  of  Him  who 
beholds  all  the  nations  of  the  earth  at  one  view, 
that  a messenger  from  the  churches  of  the  western 
hemisphere,  after  traversing  nearly  seventeen  thou- 
sand miles  of  the  broad  ocean,  and  penetrating 
thirteen  hundred  miles  further  towards  the  heart  of 
Asia,  should  at  last  find  his  sphere  of  labour  in  a 
city  unknown  even  by  name  to  those  by  whom  he 
was  sent,  when  his  journey  was  at  first  undertaken. 
Our  neighbours  are  all  our  fellow  men  whom  we 
can  reach,  directly  or  indirectly,  to  do  them  good; 
and  Christian  and  Heathen  nations  are  now  so  re- 
lated to  each  other  that  the  multitudes  of  those 
who  are  “ sitting  in  darkness  and  the  shadow  of 
death,”  though  living  in  distant  lands  and  of  a 
strange  speech,  may  be  effectively  reached  by  the 
benevolence  of  their  more  favoured  brethren.  We 
may  offer  to  them  the  blessed  gospel  if  we  are  so 
inclined.  Who  that  knows  the  worth  of  this  gift 
would  refuse  to  his  dark-minded  neighbour  so  in- 
estimable a boon? 


AT  LODIANA. 


115 


CHAPTER  IX. 

AT  LODIANA. 

Lodiana — Sickness — English  Preaching — Importance  of 
Schools — English  School  at  Lodiana. 

From  the  first  letter  written  from  Lodiana  to  the 
Secretary  of  the  Society,  I take  the  subjoined  ex- 
tract: 

I have  the  privilege,  at  last,  of  writing  to  you 
from  this  place.  I arrived  last  evening;  and  feel 
extremely  grateful  for  the  favour  of  Divine  Provi- 
dence in  bringing  me  to  the  end  of  my  journey. 
Protection,  health,  and  peace,  have  been  granted 
during  all  the  way.  At  all  the  European  stations 
great  kindness  has  been  shown  by  persons  who 
previously  were,  of  course,  entire  strangers:  and 
that  sense  of  the  Lord’s  presence,  which  is  more 
precious  than  all  the  favour  of  man,  unless  I am 
mistaken,  I have  almost  continually  enjoyed. 

Lodiana  is  the  most  remote  of  the  English  sta- 
tions in  India  on  the  North  West.  It  is  situated 
on  a small  nalla,  or  creek,  about  five  miles  from 
the  river  Sutlej,  which  forms  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  Panjab,  and  divides  the  territories  under 
British  influence  from  those  of  Ranjit  Singh,  the 
ruler  of  the  Sikhs  on  that  side  of  the  river.  The 
present  population  of  Lodiana  is  estimated  at  from 
twenty  thousand  to  Uventy-five  thousand ; and  is 
on  the  increase.  When  the  navigation  of  the  In- 
dus is  freed  from  the  present  restraints,  which  will 
most  probably  be  within  another  year,  the  place 
may  be  expected  to  increase  considerably ; as  it 
will  then  become  one  of  the  marts  of  trade  with 
countries  down  the  Indus.  It  is  now  a place  of 


116 


AT  LODIANA. 


considerable  business-intercourse  with  the  countries 
westward.  Few  places  have  so  varied  a popula- 
tion in  people  and  language.  There  are  two  regi- 
ments of  infantry,  and  one  troop  of  horse  artillery 
here,  commanded,  of  course,  by  English  officers; 
so  that  nearly  a hundred  persons  use  the  English 
language.  Then,  there  are  probably  two  thousand 
five  hundred  people  from  Cashmere,  who  have 
found  refuge  here  from  the  famine  and  oppression 
that  have  almost  desolated  their  beautiful  native 
valley.  There  are  probably  one  thousand  Aflghans, 
who  speak  Persian  chiefly.  The  higher  classes, 
of  whatever  nation,  in  this  part  of  India  pride  them- 
selves in  speaking  Persian.  The  regular  Sikhs, 
who,  both  on  this  side  of  the  Sutlej  and  on  the 
other,  form  about  one  tenth  of  the  population, 
speak  and  write,  (when  they  can  write  at  all, 
which  is  seldom  the  case,)  the  Gurmukh!  or  Pan- 
jabi dialect,  which  appears  to  be  formed  from  the 
Hindu!. 

In  regard  to  Lodiana,  as  a place  for  missionary 
operations,  I still  think  it  quite  desirable  to  have  a 
mission  established  here,  of  two  families  for  the 
present;  that  is,  of  two  married  missionaries.  One 
of  them,  in  addition  to  the  Hindu!,  should  possess 
a knowledge  of  the  Panjabi.  The  other  to  Hin- 
dustan! or  Urdu  should  add  Persian.  After  some 
time,  perhaps  one,  two,  or  three  years  at  the  fur- 
thest, a press  will  most  prqbably  be  nearly  indis- 
pensable. At  first,  the  missionaries  will  need  to 
labour  in  a quiet  way,  avoiding  professions  of  in- 
tention to  convert  the  natives,  but  watching  and 
improving  the  opportunities  which  I have  no  doubt 
will  be  constantly  occurring  for  conversation,  dis- 
tribution of  portions  of  the  Scriptures,  Tracts,  <fcc. 

One  thing  has  been  much  impressed  on  my 


AT  LODIANA. 


117 


mind — the  importance  of  sending  some  person  to 
make  observation  before  a mission,  of  any  size  at 
least,  is  resolved  on.  I find  that  actual  observation 
has  corrected  and  modified  my  views  of  this  field 
of  missionary  labour  in  no  small  degree;  as  I shall 
now  attempt  briefly  to  describe:  1.  The  way  does 
not  seem  to  be  yet  open  for  direct  efforts,  as  it  is, 
for  instance,  in  the  lower  provinces.  The  native 
chiefs  on  this  side  the  Sutlej,  and  Ranjit  Singh, 
on  the  other  side,  have  still  the  power  to  prevent 
an  intercourse  with  their  people.  It  is  not  proba- 
ble, that  they  would  attempt  to  do  it,  if  quiet  pru- 
dent measures  were  pursued.  2.  The  manner  in 
which  the  population  is  distributed  is  quite  differ- 
ent from  what  I expected  to  find,  judging  from 
other  parts  of  India.  The  people  chiefly  dwell  in 
large  towns,  often  considerably  distant  from  each 
other ; while  the  intervening  country  is  uninhabit- 
ed. This  circumstance  may  afford  a better  oppor- 
tunity ultimately  of  making  all  the  people  acquainted 
with  the  gospel.  3.  The  proportion  of  those  who 
embrace  the  religion  of  Mohammed  is  much  larger 
than  I had  supposed,  and  composed  of  the  better 
classes  of  the  people.  The  Sikhs  form  about  the 
tenth  or  twelfth  part  of  the  people.  The  great 
majority  of  the  rest  are  Mussulmans.  There  is 
less  prospect  of  their  conversion  than  of  any  class ; 
yet  “ the  arm  of  the  Lord  is  not  shortened,  that  it 
cannot  save.” 

The  same  letter  having  been  delayed  some  three 
weeks,  conveyed  the  first  news  of  what  proved  the 
cause  of  an  entire  change  in  my  course  of  life, 
which  I can  not  set  forth  in  fewer  words  than  I 
then  wrote. 

What  a change  in  a man’s  prospects  and  hopes 
is  sometimes  effected  by  the  events  and  the  in- 


118 


AT  L0DIANA. 


formation  of  a few  days  ! Since  my  last  date,  I 
have  been  ill  with  a severe  attack  of  congestion  of 
the  liver.  Through  the  favour  of  the  Lord,  the 
means  used  have  been  attended  with  so  much  suc- 
cess that  I am  now  able  to  sit  up  again,  at  least 
during  part  of  the  day.  For  about  a week,  I could 
neither  read,  nor  indeed  attend  to  any  thing ; I 
had  scarcely  strength  to  rise  from  my  bed.  This 
was  partly  owing  to  the  severe  course  of  medicine 
which  it  was  found  necessary  to  prescribe.  But 
I do  not  love  to  dwell  on  what  has  been  severe, 
there  has  been  so  much  goodness  mingled  in  this 
illness.  Though  an  entire  stranger,  1 have  received 
the  kind  treatment  of  friendship.  I have  especially 
cause  for  thankfulness  in  having  had  the  services 
of  a skilful  and  experienced  surgeon.  Mv  mind 
too  has  been  kept  in  peace  ; and  now,  that  I am 
getting  better,  I am  glad  to  have  a grateful  heart, 
and  to  feel  inclined  to  trust  in  the  Lord  w'ith  re- 
newed confidence The  Doctor  tells 

me,  that  my  constitution  will  not  suit  this  climate, 
and  that  the  sooner  I return  the  better. 

On  recovering  from  the  severe  illness  referred  to 
in  this  letter,  I took  charge  of  an  English  school, 
and  also  of  a school  for  the  children  of  the  Drum- 
mers, Serjeants,  and  Native  soldiers,  besides  con- 
ducting public  worship  on  the  Lord’s  Day,  attend- 
ed by  the  English  officers  and  others  speaking  our 
language. 

This  latter  service  was  very  well  attended,  and 
was  an  important,  and  in  the  circumstances  then 
existing,  an  appropriate  sphere  of  duty.  Where 
the  Europeans  at  a station  are  disposed  to  attend 
on  the  ordinances  and  ministrations  of  religion,  it 
is  decidely  important  to  have  these  services  estab- 
lished. Not  to  insist  that  their  spiritual  interests 


AT  LODIANA. 


119 


like  those  of  all  other  men  should  never  be  ne- 
glected, their  official  standing  and  the  superior  in- 
fluence of  their  character  give  them  every  advantage 
for  promoting  the  welfare  of  the  natives,  both  by 
their  own  efforts  directly,  as  representing  our  com- 
mon religion,  and  by  the  countenance  and  co-ope- 
ration which  they  can  give  to  the  missionary. 
There  may  be  in  some  cases  an  impropriety  in  a 
missionary’s  undertaking  such  duties,  especially 
where  chaplains  are  already  officiating;  and  in  no 
case  should  missionaries  turn  aside  from  their  pro- 
per vocation  in  the  hope  of  greater  usefulness 
amongst  the  comparatively  few  Europeans  at  their 
station.  Their  work  is  a special  one,  and  it  is 
clearly  defined  by  the  commission  under  which 
they  act ; it  must  not  be  thrown  into  the  shade  by 
any  other  undertaking.  As  they  have  opportunity, 
however  they  must  do  good  unto  all  men;  and  the 
main  difficulty  will  often  be  to  know  how  to  give 
a due  share  of  their  time  and  labour  to  the  nume- 
rous claims  which  are  made  on  them.  The  great- 
est usefulness  in  the  long  run  to  the  greatest  num- 
ber must  be  their  aim. — In  my  own  instance,  there 
could  be  no  difficulty  about  giving  a part  of  my 
time  to  this  English  service,  as  I had  been  con- 
strained to  relinquish  the  study  of  the  native  lan- 
guage on  account  of  the  slight  prospect  of  being 
able  to  continue  long  in  the  country. 

The  English  school  had  been  set  on  foot  by 
Captain,  now  Colonel  Sir  C.  M.  Wade,  the  politi- 
cal agent,  a few  months  before  I reached  Lodiana, 
and  had  been  placed  under  one  of  his  native  clerks, 
with  the  design  of  transferring  it  to  my  care  when 
I should  arrive.  Some  fourteen  or  sixteen  native 
boys  had  been  in  attendance.  After  a few  weeks 
the  number  was  increased  to  about  fifty,  of  whom 


120 


AT  LODIANA. 


some  were  the  sons  of  two  or  three  native  chiefs, 
and  other  respectable  native  gentlemen ; some  of 
them  were  Hindus,  others  Affghans,  others  Cash- 
merians,  and  a few  Sikhs;  speaking,  amongst 
them,  the  Hindu!,  Hindustani,  Gurmukhi,  Pushto, 
Persian,  and  Cashmerian  languages.  By  giving 
two  or  three  hours  a day  to  the  superintendence 
of  the  school,  and  with  the  valuable  service  of  an 
Indo-Brilish  teacher,  the  progress  of  the  scholars 
was  very  creditable  to  themselves,  and  gratifying 
to  their  generous  patron,  Captain  Wade,  and  other 
European  visiters. 

Several  of  these  youths  evinced  no  ordinary  de- 
gree of  capacity,  and  most  of  them  were  of  clever 
abilities.  All  were  uniformly  respectful  in  their 
behaviour,  and  after  a little  training  became  stu- 
dious and  some  of  them  earnest  in  their  attention 
to  their  books.  It  was  delightful  to  look  on  their 
animated  faces,  and  see  their  ej'es  kindle  as  they 
received  knowledge  daily  to  which  before  they 
had  been  entire  strangers.  And  when  their  confi- 
dence had  been  gained,  they  appeared  to  regard 
me  with  mingled  respect  and  affection,  and  to  re- 
ceive my  instructions  with  apparently  perfect  faith. 
1 advert  to  this,  though  at  the  risk  of  appearing  to 
speak  my  own  praise,  for  a special  reason — to 
show  how  invaluable  are  the  opportunities  afforded 
to  a missionary  by  such  a school  for  promoting  the 
great  object  of  his  mission.  He  has  a most  hope- 
ful charge,  a company  of  youths  whose  minds  are 
as  yet  but  partially  under  the  influence  of  heathen 
opinions  and  associations.  The  influence  of  their 
families,  out  of  school,  is  doubtless  strongly  unfa- 
vourable, but  this  weighty  hinderance  is  perhaps 
more  decidedly  felt  by  adults  than  by  children  in 
India.  And  opportunities  will  occur  every  day  of 


AT  LODIANA. 


121 


correcting  the  false  views  which  prevail  around 
them,  and  imparting  clear  and  connected  instruc- 
tion concerning  the  Christian  religion,  while  all 
the  teaching  of  the  missionary  is  enforced  by  his 
example,  and  rendered  almost  sacred  in  the  eyes 
of  the  scholars  by  their  high  views  of  his  charac- 
ter. 

The  importance  of  Christian  schools  becomes 
still  more  apparent  when  we  recollect  that  the 
main  hope  of  success  in  our  endeavours  to  convert 
any  heathen  people,  so  far  as  the  use  of  means  is 
concerned,  consists  in  preparing  native  agents  who 
shall  preach  the  gospel  to  their  countrymen.  These 
must  be  found  and  qualified,  in  heathen  as  in 
Christian  countries,  chiefly  amongst  the  youth. 
Missionaries  from  foreign  countries  are  indispen- 
sable in  the  first  instance.  It  is  theirs  to  sow  the 
seed,  to  plant  Christian  institutions,  to  organize 
and  train  the  army  of  native  soldiers  of  the  cross, 
and  for  a while  to  be  the  officers  of  “ the  sacra- 
mental host.”  All  this  they  are  now  doing  in 
India.  But  they  labour  under  great  disadvantages ; 
their  numbers  are  too  small,  not  more  than  two 
hundred  men,  where  an  army  of  seventy-five  thou- 
sand is  needed,  in  order  to  give  one  religious 
teacher  to  each  two  thousand  of  the  Hindus;  they 
are  and  ever  must  be  regarded  as  foreigners,  im- 
perfectly acquainted  with  the  language,  the  usages, 
and  the  habits  of  mental  association  of  the  people ; 
they  cannot  live  but  at  great  expense,  compared 
with  the  cost  of  supporting  a native  missionary ; 
they  are  poorly  fitted  by  their  previous  habits  and 
by  their  having  been  brought  up  in  colder  coun- 
tries, for  resisting  the  insidious  and  too  often  fatal 
influence  of  the  Indian  climate — these  and  similar 
considerations  will  ever  preclude  the  hope  of  the 
11 


122 


AT  LODIANA. 


conversion  of  the  Hindus  by  a purely  foreign 
agency,  and  they  show  the  necessity  of  directing 
our  endeavours  to  the  rearing  up  a native  ministry, 
on  whom  must  finally  devolve  the  great  work  of 
evangelizing  India.  The  limited  experience  of 
European  missionaries  in  India,  would,  it  seems 
to  me,  fully  support  these  views.  Those  missions 
and  missionaries  have  been  most  successful,  which 
employed  the  largest  and  best  trained  force  of  na- 
tive assistants.  And  it  is  very  satisfactory  to  know 
that  within  the  few  last  years,  these  doctrines  have 
been  more  fully  recognized  by  missionary  societies 
than  formerly.  We  may  indulge  brighter  hopes, 
therefore,  of  future  success.  Indeed  it  has  always 
appeared  to  me  surprising  that  objections  should  be 
made  against  missionaries  having  the  charge  of 
schools  among  the  heathen — especially  in  India, 
where  nearly  all  the  native  writings,  no  matter 
how  erroneous,  have  a sacred  character,  and  where 
all  the  instructions  of  the  missionary,  even  con- 
cerning geography  or  astronomy,  have  a direct  in- 
fluence in  overthrowing  the  great  fabric  of  Hindu 
superstition.  In  every  heathen  country,  the  mis- 
sionary’s schools  are  his  churches,  the  scholars 
his  congregation,  and  every  day  is  hallowed  by 
him  in  giving  and  applying  Christian  knowledge. 
It  cannot  be  contended  that  preaching  the  gospel, 
which  is  doubtless  the  one  great  object  of  the  mis- 
sionary’s life,  is  to  be  restricted  to  the  forms  of 
stated  public  worship  which  have  been  matured  in 
old  Christian  communities,  to  regular  sermons,  for 
example,  delivered  from  a pulpit  to  the  people  sit- 
ting below  in  pews.  There  could  have  been  very 
little  preaching  of  this  kind  in  the  Apostolic  age, 
or  in  times  of  persecution  afterwards.  Divine 
truth  may  undoubtedly  be  preached  without  the 


AT  LODIANA. 


123 


presence  of  the  forms  which  we  so  justly  revere. 
It  may  be  made  known  by  a public  and  authorized 
person  in  many  other  ways.  It  may  be  taught  by 
the  gift  of  the  Sacred  Volume  with  a few  words  of 
kind  advice;  it  may  be  proclaimed  with  a loud 
voice  in  the  midst  of  the  confused  multitude,  press- 
ing madly  after  their  idols ; it  may  be  preached  to 
a few  heathens  under  the  shade  of  a banyan  tree, 
by  the  missionary’s  earnest  talking  with  them; 
it  may  be  announced  in  quietness  and  peace  in  the 
humble  mission  chapel,  to  a little  company  of  pa- 
tient hearers;  and  we  should  be  thankful  for  all 
these  ways  of  preaching  good  news  to  our  fellow 
men.  Why  should  we  feel  less  thankful  that  the 
gospel  may  be  taught  daily  to  children,  teachably 
and  hopefully  waiting  on  the  lips  of  well  known 
and  beloved  instructors?  If  there  have  been  schools 
in  which  a decided  Christian  influence  has  not 
been  exerted,  I am  not  their  advocate ; but  when 
properly  conducted,  schools  certainly  afford  most 
important  facilities  for  advancing  the  object  which 
the  Church  has  in  view  in  her  missions  to  the 
heathen.  At  the  same  time,  I am  well  aware  that 
serious  difficulties  may  often  exist  to  hinder  the 
usefulness  of  schools,  and  even  to  prevent  their 
being  taken  under  the  missionary’s  care. 

If  I have  dwelt  too  long  on  this  topic,  it  has 
been  only  in  part  on  account  of  its  deep  impor- 
tance to  the  successful  prosecution  of  the  mission- 
ary work ; I have  also  wished  to  secure  the  read- 
I er’s  greater  interest  in  the  school,  with  which  our 
efforts  among  the  natives  at  Lodiana  were  com- 
menced. Its  early  history  has  given  pleasing  evi- 
dence of  the  favour  of  God  towards  our  mission. 

At  first,  however,  there  seemed  to  be  no  little 
uncertainty  about  its  prospects,  and  whether  in- 


124 


AT  LODIANA. 


deed  it  should  become  a mission  school.  This 
may  appear  surprising  to  the  reader  who  recollects 
the  account  given  by  Mr.  Reed  and  myself  in  our 
letter  to  the  society,  from  which  an  extract  has 
been  given  on  a previous  page;  but  that  letter  con- 
veyed only  the  impressions  made  by  the  informa- 
tion we  had  then  received.  Now,  I found  that 
among  the  Europeans  in  the  Upper  Provinces  there 
was  much  apprehension  about  connecting  religious 
instruction  with  the  education  of  the  natives ; and 
some  men,  of  liberal  views  too,  were  decidedly 
opposed  to  such  a union,  at  least  at  that  time.  The 
general  policy  of  the  government  colleges,  in  which 
the  Christian  religion  is  no  more  recognized  than 
the  Mohammedan  or  any  other,  should  be  followed 
with  special  care,  it  was  argued,  amongst  a people 
so  partially  under  subjection  to  the  British  as  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Protected  Sikh  States,  and  a 
people  moreover  of  so  much  independence,  not  to 
say  recklessness  of  character.  The  popularity  of 
those  colleges  among  the  natives  was  every  where 
acknowledged,  but  the  successful  religious  institu- 
tions of  learning  in  Calcutta,  attended  largely  by 
native  youths  of  the  highest  castes,  were  not  so 
well  known  in  the  Upper  Provinces,  or  not  con- 
sidered examples  to  be  imitated  where  the  circum- 
stances were  so  different.  And  it  was  easy,  start- 
ing from  premises  like  these,  to  form  quite  an 
array  of  objections,  which  1 doubt  not  were  sin- 
cerely felt,  against  attempting  to  combine  religion 
and  education  in  schools  for  the  natives.  Religious 
prejudices  would  be  aroused,  disaffection  might  be 
created  against  the  government,  and  the  improve- 
ment of  the  natives  retarded  by  premature  zeal — 
these  were  views  which  it  is  not  strange  that  men 
should  form  in  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  those 


AT  LODfcVNA. 


125 


provinces.  I esteemed  myself  highly  fortunate  in 
having  to  consult  with  a gentleman  of  such  en- 
larged and  correct  views,  and  of  such  generous 
zeal  for  the  good  of  the  natives,  as  were  evinced 
by  the  Political  Agent  at  Lodiana.  With  many 
other  men  it  might  have  been  impracticable  for  me 
to  have  had  any  connection  with  the  English  school 
at  that  place,  as  I could  not  consent  to  take  the 
responsible  charge  of  an  institution  from  which 
our  holy  religion  was  to  be  utterly  excluded.  After 
mature  reflection,  the  school  was  fully  placed  under 
my  control,  and  its  studies  were  directed  by  a set- 
tled plan.  No  professions  of  our  object  were 
ostentatiously  made,  but  on  the  other  hand  no  con- 
cealment of  our  views  was  attempted,  nor  was  there 
any  withholding  of  religious  instruction.  No  alarm 
was  awakened  among  either  Hindus,  Mussulmans, 
or  Sikhs.  And  the  school  after  a fair  trial  was  con- 
sidered a successful  effort.  At  least  a favourable 
beginning  had  been  made,  though  another  and 
hardly  less  critical  decision  as  to  its  permanent 
character  was  yet  to  be  given. 

Thus  far  there  was  abundant  ground  for  acknow- 
ledging the  hand  of  God  for  good  towards  our 
mission  and,  we  trust,  towards  the  native  inhabi- 
tants. It  would  have  been  a matter  of  deep  regret, 
if  the  first  efforts  in  this  new  sphere  of  education 
had  been  established  on  the  contracted  policy  of 
excluding  that  instruction  without  which  all  other 
teaching  is  incomplete  and  unsatisfactory ; thereby 
awakening  or  confirming  a host  of  prejudices,  and 
closing  the  door  against  the  most  valuable  oppor- 
tunities of  imparting  religious  knowledge  to  those, 
who  were  soon  to  wield  the  highest  native  in- 
fluence. Indeed  so  grave  was  the  complexion  of 
this  matter,  that  I could  not  but  seriously  doubt 


126 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


the  expediency  of  attempting  a settlement  at  Lodi- 
ana,  unless  it  could  be  satisfactorily  adjusted.  This 
was  evidently  the  first  thing  to  be  done,  as  matters 
then  stood  in  that  city ; and  not  to  have  had  the 
supervision  of  whatever  was  done  or  attempted 
might  have  proved  in  many  ways  embarrassing. 
But  whatever  fears  I might  have  been  constrained 
to  indulge,  not  so  much  from  the  views  of  Euro- 
peans at  that  city  as  from  the  general  considera- 
tions already  referred  to,  I could  not  but  acknow- 
ledge with  lively  gratitude  the  favour  of  Him,  who 
disposes  and  governs  all  the  councils  of  men  ac- 
cording to  his  own  holy  will.  It  was  highly  pro- 
per, also,  to  acknowledge  thankfully  the  favour  of 
the  Europeans  of  the  station,  and  particularly  of 
the  Political  Agent,  Captain  Wade,  who  in  this 
instance  as  in  all  others  proved  himself  a cordial 
and  efficient  friend  of  our  mission. 


CHAPTER  X. 

TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 

Information  desired — Invitation  from  Ranjit  Singh — Man- 
ner of  travelling — Appearance  of  the  country — Paghwa- 
rah — Dancing  girls — Villages — Cities — Interview  with  a 
Native  Chief — River  Bias — Cashmerian  emigrants — Sa- 
cred reservoir  at  Amritsir ; visit  of  a Native  Chief. 

Those  who  are  engaged  in  establishing  a new  mis- 
sion, should  seek  earnestly  for  such  information  as 
shall  enable  them  wisely  to  form  their  plans  of 
proceeding.  They  should  know  the  numbers  of 
the  people  amongst  whom  they  are  to  labour ; their 


TOUE  TO  LAHOB. 


127 


character,  business,  usages,  learning,  government, 
laws,  state  of  society,  chief  towns  and  cities,  and 
other  matters  affecting  their  condition,  and  especially 
their  religion  and  its  institutions  and  observances. 
These  things  influence  greatly  the  efforts,  both  in 
kind  and  extent,  which  the  missionary  should  un- 
dertake for  their  welfare.  Entertaining  this  opinion, 
I endeavoured  to  collect  information  on  these  points 
from  every  quarter — particularly  after  the  physi- 
cian, to  whose  kind  and  valuable  services  I was  so 
deeply  indebted,  had  given  his  opinion  as  to  the 
necessity  of  my  returning  home.  As  our  mission 
had  a special-  reference  to  the  Sikh  people  who 
inhabit  those  north  western  parts  of  India,  and  as 
most  of  the  Sikh  tribes  live  in  the  Punjab,  or 
country  between  the  Sutlej  and  the  Indus  at  that 
time  under  the  government  of  Maha  Rajah  Ranjit 
Singh,  and  seldom  visited  by  foreigners,  I was 
\ anxious  to  make  a tour  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Sutlej.  I soon  learned  that  there  was  little  prospect 
of  being  able  to  make  such  a journey.  Through 
jealousy  of  foreign  influence,  Ranjit  was  reluctant 
to  permit  Europeans  and  other  foreigners  to  enter 
his  territores,  and  to  avoid  giving  umbrage  to  a 
ruler  of  so  much  power,  the  British  authorities  did 
not  authorize,  except  in  special  instances,  foreign- 
ers to  cross  the  Sutlej ; I had  therefore  reluctantly 
to  relinquish  the  project  of  making  inquiries  in  the 
Panjab  itself.  The  reader  will  judge  then  of  my 
surprise  and  gratification  at  receiving  from  the 
Maha  Raja  an  invitation  to  pay  him  a visit  at 
Lahor!  He  had  heard  of  me  and  of  our  English 
school  through  his  Vakil,  or  Charge  des  affaires, 
at  Lodiana,  and  with  his  invitation  he  made  a pro- 
posal that  I should  spend  six  months  of  the  year 
at  his  capital,  to  take  charge  of  the  education  of  a 


128 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


number  of  the  young  Sikh  noblemen,  the  sons  of 
chiefs.  I should  have  been  delighted  to  have  ac- 
cepted this  proposal,  if  the  state  of  my  health 
would  at  all  have  justified  my  living  on  the  plains  ; 
it  presented  a fine  prospect  of  obtaining  a standing 
and  influence,  which  would  have  been  invaluable 
to  a missionary.  And  in  reflecting  on  the  past,  I 
have  been  disposed  to  regret  that  I had  not  con- 
sented at  whatever  risk ; but  the  physician’s  ad- 
vice was  imperative.  I must  repair  to  the  hills  on 
the  approach  of  the  hot  season,  as  the  only  means 
of  preventing  another  attack,  w'hich  in  the  warm 
season  would  probably  prove  extremely  dangerous, 
if  not  fatal.  I was  constrained  therefore  to  decline 
the  proposal,  and  as  the  invitation  was  connected 
with  it,  I much  feared  that  my  declining  the  one 
would  prevent  a renewal  of  the  latter,  though  in 
acknowledging  the  honour  of  the  invitation,  I ex- 
pressed myself  as  anxious  to  be  permitted  to  come 
and  pay  my  duty  to  “ the  great  King.” 

The  invitation  was  repeated,  and  the  visit  to 
Lahor  was  shortly  afterwards  made.  Of  this  tour 
I took  notes  at  the  time,  which  will  serve  to  give  a 
better  view  of  the  condition  of  the  Panjab,  than  I 
could  present  in  any  other  form. 

January  28,  1835. — Agreeably  to  an  arrange- 
ment previously  made,  I set  out  this  afternoon  on 
the  journey  to  Lahor.  An  elephant  had  been  sent 
from  that  city,  to  carry  the  tents ; and  another, 
which  the  Maha  Rajah  keeps  at  Lodiana,  was 
assigned  for  my  use  to  ride.  The  latter  is  a noble 
animal,  being  nine  or  ten  feet  in  height.  On  his 
back  is  placed  the  Howdah,  a kind  of  gig-like 
frame,  but  without  a hood,  and  having  two  seats. 
The  front  one  is  richly  ornamented  with  silk  cush- 
ions, of  a yellow  colour,  the  favourite  colour  of  the. 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


129 


Sikhs ; and  affording  good  accommodation  for  two 
persons.  Behind  it  is  a lower  seat,  for  a servant 
to  sit  on,  either  for  parade  or  to  hold  an  umbrella 
when  necessary.  The  driver  sits  on  the  neck  im- 
mediately before  the  howdah,  while  one  or  two 
assistants  run  by  the  side  of  the  elephant — all 
carrying  goads,  or  iron  sticks,  to  guide  the  animal 
or  quicken  his  pace.  The  motion  is  not  a plea- 
sant one  to  persons  not  used  to  it.  He  goes  at  a 
kind  of  walking  pace,  as  if  trampling  on  round 
stones,  and  apparently  so  much  at  his  leisure  as  to 
lead  a person  to  think  he  was  making  little  pro- 
gress. In  truth,  however,  the  horsemen  in  com- 
pany, of  whom  there  are  ten  assigned  as  guards, 
are  obliged  to  amble  along  (for  the  Hindus  seldom 
trot)  four  or  five  miles  an  hour,  to  keep  up  with 
him. 

Before  mentioning  the  elephants  and  the  horse- 
men, I should  have  introduced  the  Persian  Munshi, 
or  Secretary,  who  goes  with  me  as  interpreter. 
He  is  a Mussulman  Hindu,  who  has  acquired  a 
pretty  good  knowledge  of  our  language  at  the  Eng- 
lish College  at  Delhi.  He  will  be  of  great  use  to 
me ; as,  in  addition  to  the  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage, he  is  acquainted  with  the  customs  of  the 
people,  and  his  pleasing  manners  render  him  not 
unacceptable  as  a companion. 

There  are  no  hotels  in  this  country;  so  that  in 
travelling  it  is  necessary  to  take  every  thing  along 
that  is  needed  for  cooking,  sleeping,  &c.  And 
such  is  the  division  of  labour  among  different  castes, 
who  will  not  do  any  thing  not  pertaining  to  their 
own  class,  that  it  requires  no  small  number  of  men 
to  form  an  establishment.  Thus,  our  present 
company  amounts  to  about  sixty  persons,  includ- 
ing myself,  munshi,  horseguard,  and  our  respec- 
12 


130 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


live  domestic  servants  ; as  also  tent-pitchers,  atten- 
dants for  the  elephants,  horses,  &c.  Large  as  this 
number  appears  to  be,  I have  the  satisfaction  of 
knowing  that  it  is  smaller  than  the  attendance  of 
most  European  travellers  in  the  Panjab. 

Crossing  the  Nullah,  or  moderate  sized  creek, 
of  clear  beautiful  water,  which  flows  almost  half 
round  Lodiana,  our  road  led  through  fields  of  grain 
covering  the  level  sandy  plains  with  a carpet  of 
green.  We  passed  two  or  three  small,  ill-looking 
villages,  where  the  mud-houses  of  the  people,  their 
cattle,  and  their  grain,  were  all  jumbled  closely 
together,  and  surrounded  by  a low  clay  wall.  At 
five  or  six  miles  distance,  we  came  to  the  river 
Sutlej.  The  water  flows  along  in  a naked  channel 
through  the  sandy  plains  which  characterize  this 
part  of  India.  There  are  a great  many  shoals,  or 
sand-bars,  in  the  channel,  which  make  their  ap- 
pearance at  this  time  of  year ; yet,  in  the  main 
channel  there  is  rather  a strong  current,  and  about 
ten  feet  depth  of  water.  During  the  rainy  season, 
the  waters  of  this  river  are  spread  over  the  country 
two  or  three  miles  in  breadth.  Formerly,  it  ran 
past  Lodiana,  where  the  Nallah  now  runs;  but  it 
forsook  that  channel  some  fifty  years  ago — an 
occurrence  which  one  may  suppose  would  not  be 
unfrequent,  as  the  water  receives  a rapid  impulse 
in  the  mountainous  regions,  and  the  sandy  soil  of 
the  plains  opposes  but  feeble  resistance  to  their 
progress.  The  ancient  name  of  this,  river  was 
Saludar — whence  Hesudrus.  It  is  the  most  eas- 
tern of  the  five  rivers  from  which  the  name  Pun- 
jab* is  derived,  and  forms  the  boundary  on  the 
east  of  that  part  of  India.  After  continuing  its 
course  forty  miles  from  this  place,  it  receives  the 

* From  two  India  words,  panj  five;  and  ub,  water. 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


131 


Bias,  the  ancient  Hyphasis , the  second  river  of 
the  Punjab  from  the  east;  and  thence,  the  united 
stream  is  called  the  Gharra.  At  Uch,  lower  down 
to  the  southwest,  the  river  formed  by  the  other 
three  rivers  of  the  Panjab  joins  the  Gharra;  and 
thenceforward,  the  name  is  Panjnad,  which  falls 
into  the  Indus  at  Mithan  Khol.  We  crossed  the 
Sutlej  at  a town  called  Filor,  on  the  opposite  bank, 
where  there  is  a Fort  of  some  strength,  garrisoned 
by  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  and  a population  of 
six  or  seven  thousand  persons,  chiefly  Mussul- 
mans. Here  we  encamped  for  the  night  on  the 
open  plain  near  the  town. 

January  29. — Started  this  morning  at  7 5 o'clock, 
and  came  to  Paghwarah,  tenkos,  or  about  thirteen 
miles.  The  road  led  us  past  six  or  seven  villages ; 
some  of  them  large,  containing  probably  two  or 
three  thousand  inhabitants  each.  Many  others 
were  in  sight,  and  several  had  small  forts,  of  no 
great  strength.  Paghwarah  contains  probably  fif- 
teen thousand  inhabitants.  The  houses  and  public 
buildings  make  a better  appearance  than  is  usual 
in  cities  pf  India,  a larger  portion  of  them  being  of 
brick  than  is  common.  The  people  are  chiefly 
Hindus;  the  Mussulmans  have  two  mosques  ; and 
there  are  two  or  three  hundred  Sikhs.  So  we  are 
informed  by  the  chief  man  of  the  town,  himself  a 
a Sikh.  There  are  a few  Persian  and  Sanscrit 
schools  at  this  town,  attended  by  a few  scholars 
each.  The  chief  trade  of  the  people  is  in  the  com- 
mon white  sugar  of  the  country.  The  fort  pre- 
sents a formidable  appearance  at  a distance.  We 
did  not  go  near  enough  to  examine  it  closely. 

In  the  afternoon,  a company  of  Nach  girls  came 
to  the  place  where  our  tents  were  pitched  on  the 
plain,  wishing  to  exhibit  their  skill  in  dancing,  in 


132 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


order  to  obtain  a present.  There  were  about 
twenty  of  them,  attended  by  two  or  three  men  with 
instruments  of  music.  All  were  unveiled,  and 
were  dressed  in  their  richest  finery.  Nearly  all 
were  quite  young,  probably  not  more  than  ten  or 
eleven  years  of  age.  As  I did  not  wish  to  give 
them  any  encouragement,  they  went  away  ap- 
parently much  disappointed. 

This  class  of  girls  is  to  be  found  in  all  the  large 
towns  and  cities  of  India.  Their  profession,  from 
which  they  receive  their  name,  is  that  of  dancing 
and  singing;  in  which  they  are  employed  at  all 
feasts  and  joyous  occasions.  The  Hindus  consider 
such  amusements  very  disgraceful  in  themselves; 
though  they  take  great  delight  in  witnessing  the 
performances  of  others.  These  poor  girls  are 
universally  of  disreputable  character;  and  their 
number  and  style  of  dress  afford  one  of  the  many 
proofs  which  exist,  that  impurity  extensively  pre- 
vails among  this  people.  It  is  said  that  their 
songs  and  dancing  are  often  very  indecent.  This 
general  subject  is  a painful  one  to  every  Christian 
mind,  and  requires  the  veil  of  silence  to  be  drawn 
over  most  of  its  aspects.  Yet  it  would  be  a want 
of  faithfulness  in  missionaries  not  to  advert  to  it  at 
all ; as  thereby  one  of  the  most  prominent  evils  of 
Heathenism  would  awaken  little  sympathy.  If 
any  of  the  views,  however,  which  may  be  present- 
ed, admit  minuteness  of  statement  and  call  for 
peculiar  concern,  it  is  the  affecting  truth  that  the 
great  majority  of  this  class  are  so  very  young.  It 
not  only  shows  that  they  are  early  initiated,  into 
the  grossest  vice,  but  that  their  course  in  it  is  brief. 
Soon  they  are  discarded,  wander  about  as  beggars, 
and  perish  miserably. 

January  30. — Jhalandar,  ten  kos.  We  started 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


133 


at  six  o’clock.  The  morning  was  cold  and  frosty, 
the  thermometer  standing  at  32°  in  the  open  air. 
We  passed  two  large  villages,  and  saw  several 
others  at  a short  distance ; from  one  part  of  the 
road,  no  less  than  six,  all  of  them  but  four  or  five 
miles  from  all  the  others,  and  connected  together 
by  the  greenly  covered  field  of  grain.  At  one  of 
them  there  is  a large  mosque.  The  appearance  of 
villages  in  the  northern  parts  of  India  is  almost 
every  where  the  same.  If  rising  ground  can  be 
obtained,  they  are  placed  on  the  highest  part; 
which  however,  is  seldom  more  than  a few  feet 
elevated  above  the  vast  surrounding  plains.  The 
houses  are  almost  always  built  of  clay  or  mud,  as 
is  the  wall  which  commonly  encloses  the  town. — 
There  is  greater  neatness  and  cleanliness  in  the  in- 
terior of  these  villages  than  a person  would  expect 
to  see;  but  on  the  outside  of  the  walls  there  is 
much  to  offend  more  senses  than  one.  I have 
often  been  reminded  of  the  expression  in  Revela- 
tion, “ without  are  dogs.”  These  animals  are  by 
no  means  held  in  such  estimation  in  this  country 
as  among  western  nations.  Many  of  them  run 
wild,  or  unclaimed  by  any  owner;  and  often  seve- 
ral of  them  may  be  seen,  half-starved,  sneaking, 
and  stupid  in  their  appearance,  preying  on  the 
filthy,  putrid  matters  that  are  thrown  over  the 
walls. 

The  cultivated  plains  over  which  we  are  travel- 
ling are  said  to  yield  two  crops  in  the  year ; the 
first,  of  wheat  and  barley,  sown  in  November,  and 
reaped  in  April;  the  second,  of  different  kinds  of 
a native  grain,  generally  called  dal,  sown  or  plant- 
ed in  July,  and  gathered  in  October.  The  seed  of 
the  dal  is  used  by  the  natives  for  food,  and  the 
stalks  make  fodder  for  the  cattle.  The  wheat  and 


134 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


barley  seem  to  be  cultivated  with  great  care.  Often 
it  is  planted  in  rows  a few  inches  apart;  and  often 
the  seed  has  been  so  deposited  as  to  spring  up  in 
bunches  or  clusters  of  two  or  three  stalks  each. 

Before  reaching  our  stage  to-day,  we  met  a string 
of  sixty  or  seventy  camels,  loaded  with  salt.  They 
travel  in  “Indian  file,”  a cord  being  attached  either 
from  the  crupper  or  tail  of  the  first,  to  the  nose  of 
the  second,  and  so  on.  The  salt  is  brought  from 
Dadal  Khan  ka  Pind,  a place  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Jilum,  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles  from  La- 
hor  to  the  N.  W.  There  is  a range  of  salt  hills,  in 
which,  at  some  distance  and  partly  descending,  the 
salt  is  found  in  solid  mass  of  a reddish  colour.  It 
is  dug  with  sledges  and  hammers,  and  exported  to 
all  parts  of  the  Panjab;  yielding  a revenue  at  the 
mines,  it  is'said,  of  more  than  a million  and  a half 
of  rupees. 

Jhalandar,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  our  tents  are 
pitched  to-day,  is  a large,  substantial-looking  city. 
It  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Lodi  race  of 
Aflghan  kings  (from  whom  the  town  of  Lodiana 
takes  its  name)  who  have  left  many  traces  of  their 
having  made  this  place  their  home.  It  is  surround- 
ed by  a high  wall,  partly  of  brick  with  bastions, 
and  partly  of  clay — has  a large  fort,  and  many 
brick  houses.  The  population  is  said  to  be  forty 
thousand ; chiefly  Hindus,  then  Mussulmans,  and 
a few  Sikhs.  The  country  around  is  highly  culti- 
vated, and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  are  numerous 
gardens,  mango,  pomegranate,  orange,  and  rose 
trees. — Our  tents  are  near  three  large  tombs,  erect- 
ed to  perpetuate  the  names  of  former  kings.  But 
their  remembrance  has  passed  away,  and  their 
memorials  are  fast  sharing  the  same  lot,  being  in  a 
very  ruinous  condition.  I estimated  the  smallest 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


135 


one  to  be  forty  feet  square,  and  twenty-five  to  the 
commencement  of  the  dome.  The  other  two  are 
larger,  and  of  different  structure;  but  are  also  sur- 
mounted by  domes.  This  circumstance  is  proof 
itself  of  the  Mussulman  faith  of  their  builders. 
They  seem  to  be  very  fond  of  that  kind  of  struc- 
ture, probably  because  it  forms  so  large  a part  of 
the  ornamental  roofs  of  their  sacred  temple  at 
Mekka.  They  place  domes,  in  this  country,  on 
the  tops  of  nearly  all  their  mosques  ; usually  three ; 
and  on  their  tombs  and  other  public  buildings. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  Thanadar,  or  Governor  of 
the  city,  came  to  pay  his  respects.  He  was  attend- 
ed by  several  of  the  chief  men,  and  a crowd  of 
guards  with  long  spears,  making  a little  forest  of 
sharp  points  over  their  heads.  I was  indebted  for 
this  mark  of  respect  to  my  character  as  an  Eng- 
lishman; for  such  they  think  I am,  and  to  my 
travelling  through  the  country  at  the  Malta  Rajah’s 
invitation.  The  custom  is  for  inferiors  of  respect- 
ability, in  approaching  a person  whom  they  regard 
as  superior,  to  offer  a rupee  or  two  on  the  folded 
corner  of  their  mantle;  which  was  done  this  after- 
noon ; but  I think  it  best  to  decline  receiving  the 
present.  It  is  only  meant  as  a matter  of  form. 
After  making  some  inquiries,  I distributed  tracts 
to  those  among  them  who  could  read  ; which  were 
accepted  with  many  thanks;  chiefly,  I suppose,  be- 
cause they  look  on  me  as  their  superior,  so  that  it 
is  a mark  of  favour  from  me.  I am  thankful,  that 
this  adventitious  dignity  will  probably  secure  a 
careful  perusal  of  these  silent  little  messengers  of 
salvation. 

January  31. — To  Kaphurtalah,  ninekos.  Soon 
after  starting  this  morning,  we  passed  two  of  the 
twelve  paklca  villages  which  belong  to  the  city  of 


136 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


Jhalandar.  Their  houses  and  walls  are  all  built  of 
burnt  bricks  (whence  the  name  pakka)  which  gives 
them  a very  superior  appearance  to  that  of  many 
Hindu  villages.  None  of  them  are  more  than 
three  kos  from  the  city.  The  district  of  Jhaland- 
ar, including  the  city,  is  farmed  for  its  revenue  by 
a Sdih  chief,  who  pays  two  hundred  thousand  ru- 
pees annually  for  the  privilege  to  Ranjit  Singh. — 
When  we  got  within  a mile  of  our  halting  place, 
we  were  met  by  a vakil,  or  kind  of  ambassador  of 
the  Chief  of  this  part  of  the  country,  mounted  on 
an  elephant,  and  accompanied  by  eight  or  ten  foot 
soldiers  with  their  muskets,  who  presented  arms 
as  a salute,  and  then  went  before  us,  the  vakil 
riding  by  our  side.  For  this  mark  of  respect  we 
may  thank,  partly  the  circumstances  under  which 
I make  the  journey,  and  partly  the  custom  of  the 
country.  We  were  conducted  to  a large  and  fine 
dwelling,  for  this  country,  in  a garden  some  dis- 
tance outside  of  the  walls  of  the  city  where  the 
Chief  wished  me  to  take  up  my  quarters. 

Fatteh  Singh,  the  Chief  of  Kaphurtalah,  is  one 
of  the  most  powerful  of  the  Sikh  chiefs,  having  a 
revenue  of  about  seven  laks  of  rupees,  or  three 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars.  He  was  for- 
merly an  independent  prince  but  was  obliged  to  be- 
come a feudatory  of  Ranjit  Singh,  after  being  de- 
prived of  a considerable  portion  of  his  territories. 
Part  of  his  possessions  lie  in  the  district  of  country 
between  the  Sutlej  and  the  Jamna,  under  British 
protection.  The  population  of  the  town  where  he 
resides  is  probably  about  ten  thousand  persons; 
chiefly  Hindus,  then  Mussulmans,  and  a few  Sikhs. 
It  is  a new  town,  and  is  apparently  increasing  with 
much  rapidity.  Some  of  the  public  buildings  are 
large  and  not  deficient  in  Hindu  taste.  The  most 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


137 


singular  and  extensive  is  a temple  to  Siva,  erected 
for  the  Hindus  by  the  Chief,  himself  a Sikh.  It 
has  a lofty  pagoda-like  structure  at  each  corner  of 
a square,  and  a similar  building  in  the  centre  of 
larger  dimensions.  These  pagodas  are  from  thirty 
to  fifty  feet  high,  with  many  gilded  short  spires 
shooting  up  from  various  projections.  In  the  after- 
noon, the  wind  was  very  high  and  from  the  east. 
The  thermometer  stood  in  the  open  air  at  40°, 
101°,  and  50°,  at  sunrise,  noon,  and  sunset.  At 
noon  it  stood  at  61°  in  the  shade. 

February  2. — Yesterday  I went  to  see  the  Chief, 
and  had  much  conversation  with  him  and  his  at- 
tendants. He  is  rather  under  the  middle  size,  has 
an  intelligent  countenance,  dresses  plainly — much 
more  so  than  his  sons — and  all  his  remarks  evinced 
strong  good  sense,  though  not  much  cultivation  of 
mind.  I was  struck  with  the  frank,  unceremoni- 
ous, yet  respectful  manner  in  which  all  seemed  to 
address  him.  It  wore  something  of  a patriarchal 
aspect,  which  the  grave  countenances  and  long 
beards  of  the  people  rendered  the  more  dignified. 
It  was  interesting,  also,  to  see  Sikhs,  Mussulmans, 
and  Hindus,  mingled  among  the  chief  men  of  this 
court,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  mosques  and 
temples  of  these  sects  are  seen  standing  in  the 
same  streets  of  the  town.  I should  think  it  very 
probable,  that  in  a few  years,  if  favour  still  be 
given,  a branch  of  our  mission  might  be  estab- 
lished here  under  promising  prospects.  Even  now, 
I think  the  Sardar  could  be  persuaded  to  grant  his 
protection,  if  not  his  influence;  and  especially  if 
an  English  school  were  undertaken. 

Our  halting  place  to-day  is  at  Bahrowal,  eleven 
or  twelve  kos  from  Kaphurtalah,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Bias , the  second  river  of  the  Panjab 


138 


TODR  TO  LAUOR. 


from  the  east.  The  Bias  is  here  a pretty  stream 
of  about  one  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  The 
eastern  bank  is  low,  and  covered  with  a deep  fine 
white  sand,  for  a mile  from  the  water.  The  other 
bank  is  bolder,  and  is  probably  thirty  feet  high. 
The  town  of  Bahrowal  stretches  along  the  western 
bank  for  two  or  three  miles;  but  does  not  contain 
more  than  five  or  six  thousand  inhabitants,  who 
are  chiefly  Hindus.  It  is  a kind  of  landing-place 
for  rafts  of  timber,  which  are  brought  down  the 
river  in  the  rainy  season.  But  it  does  not  present 
the  appearance  of  a business  place;  rather  it  ap- 
pears to  be  on  the  decline.  As  usual,  there  are 
no  schools,  and  but  few  persons  who  can  read. 

February  3. — To  Jandyala,  eleven  kos.  The 
country,  to-day,  has  the  same  general  appearance 
that  we  have  noticed  on  former  days — level,  sandy, 
destitute  of  trees,  stones,  houses,  or  any  thing  to 
break  the  uniformity  of  the  landscape.  There 
were  occasional  fields  of  fine  wheat,  and  a few 
villages  looking  as  uninteresting  as  usual.  The 
fields  have  now  commonly  a low,  brier  fence 
around  them.  One  is  ready  to  wonder  at  the  rich- 
ness of  the  grain  on  so  sandy  a soil;  but  the  soil 
is  rather  a loam  in  which  much  sand  is  intermin- 
gled, and  which  becomes  very  productive  when 
water  can  be  applied  to  irrigate  it.  To  obtain 
water  for  this  purpose,  the  Persian  wheel  is  com- 
monly employed. 

To-day,  as  on  former  days,  we  met  a number 
of  Cashmerians,  emigrating  from  their  lonely  na- 
tive valley,  in  search  of  employment  and  liveli- 
hood. Through  famine  and  oppression,  the  valley 
of  Cashmere  is  said  to  be  now  almost  deserted; 
containing  probably  less  than  one  hundred  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  yielding  no  revenue  at  all, 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


139 


where,  some  years  ago,  it  is  said,  forty  laks,  or 
four  millions  of  rupees  were  collected.  These 
emigrants  look  very  wretched,  being  ragged,  dirty, 
and  often  bare-headed,  which  in  this  country  indi- 
cates much  deeper  poverty,  than  to  be  bare-footed 
does  in  other,  at  least  in  western  countries.  They 
carry  with  them  a few  utensils  for  cooking,  and 
perhaps  a small  bundle  of  ragged  clothes.  The 
men  have  usually  fine,  intellectual  looking  coun- 
tenances, and  are  rather  small  in  stature,  and  of 
active  make.  The  women  may  rank  in  their  ap- 
pearance among  the  poorer  classes  of  emigrants 
from  Europe  to  America,  and  have  frequently  good 
countenances  and  fine  eyes,  though  not  so  remark- 
able for  beauty  as  some  writers  represent.  They 
are  a very  industrious  people,  and  are  now  to  be 
found  at  nearly  all  the  large  towns  in  this  region 
of  India,  employed  in  manufacturing  the  various 
fine  fabrics  for  which  their  valley  is  so  celebrated. 

Jandyala  presents  rather  a good  appearance,  as 
many  of  the  houses  are  built  of  brick.  It  is 
always  difficult  to  form  a correct  estimate  of  the 
population  of  a Hindu  town.  There  are  seldom 
any  well  ascertained  statistics,  never  any  records, 
and  the  natives  differ  widely  in  their  guesses.  One 
informant  stated  the  inhabitants  of  this  town  at 
thirty  thousand.  It  probably  contains  about  one- 
third  that  number;  chiefly  Hindus  of  the  Khsatriya 
caste,  one  of  the  most  respectable  orders  of  the 
community.  There  are,  however,  no  schools  of 
any  kind,  and  few  are  able  to  read.  Those  who 
wish  to  have  their  children  taught  to  read  and  write, 
send  them  to  Amritsir.  There  is  a brick  fort  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  this  town,  the  walls  of 
which  are  probably  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet 
high.  It  is  smaller  than  one  or  two  others  we  have 


140 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


seen,  that  were  built  in  the  same  style.  Scarcely 
any  of  them  would  hold  out,  for  any  length  of 
time,  against  European  artillery.  Some  of  them 
would  tumble  down  at  the  first  discharge.  Yet 
others  display  considerable  acquaintance  with  mili- 
tary science,  having  the  same  array  of  bastions, 
ramparts,  port-holes,  ditches,  drawbridges,  &c., 
that  are  common  in  European  fortifications. 

February  4. — Our  ride  this  morning  presented 
nothing  worthy  of  particular  notice.  The  fields 
of  grain  were  more  scattered  than  we  observed  on 
former  days,  and  large  tracts  of  land  were  lying 
waste.  Two  or  three  large  villages  on  the  road- 
side, and  some  others  at  a distance,  had  the  usual 
appearance.  When  we  had  made  about  half  our 
march,  we  saw  several  lofty  columns  rising  from 
the  city  Amritsir,  distant  five  or  six  miles.  We 
soon  reached  the  city,  and  found  our  tents  pitched 
in  a garden  outside  of  the  wall,  at  the  north  end. 
This  is  one  of  the  largest  cities  in  the  north  of 
India,  as  the  population  is  supposed  to  be  upwards 
of  one  hundred  thousand.  It  has  the  higher  recom- 
mendation of  being  a city  not  on  the  decline,  but 
of  increasing  prosperity.  It  is  the  emporium  of 
the  Panjab,  and' the  chief  mart  of  the  fine  fabrics 
of  Cashmere,  and  yields  a revenue,  it  is  said,  of 
five  laks  of  rupees,  (five  hundred  thousand,) 
which  is  paid  to  the  Maha  Rajah  by  the  Chief, 
who  has  the  farming  of  its  collection;  so  that  the 
entire  sum  is  probably  much  greater. 

Like  Benares  among  the  Hindus,  Amritsir  is  the 
Sikh  Athens  and  Jerusalem,  being  the  place  of 
chief  learning  and  sacredness.  The  cause  of  its 
celebrity  is  undoubtedly  the  Sacred  Reservoir,  said 
to  have  been  formed  by  Guru  Ram  Das  about  the 
year  1575.  It  has  been  once  or  twice  profaned 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


141 


by  Mohammedan  conquerors,  yet  has  still  been 
regarded  with  the  utmost  veneration.  It  is  the 
chief  place  of  resort  among  the  Sikh  pilgrims,  and 
has  many  daily  devotees,  who  think  their  worship 
becomes  highly  meritorious  by  being  performed  at 
so  sacred  a place.  Rajahs  have  vied  with  each 
other  in  the  richness  of  their  offerings  for  its  deco- 
ration; and  the  number  of  learned  Sikhs,  who 
constantly  live  in  the  cloisters  around  its  pavement, 
and  in  the  booths  on  the  margin  of  its  waters,  to 
explain  the  sacred  book,  the  Grantli,  is  so  large, 
as  to  diffuse  almost  a literary  atmosphere  over  the 
place  of  devotion.  I went  to  see  the  reservoir, 
though  there  was  some  danger  attending  the  visit; 
as  there  are  always  present  many  of  the  Mails,  a 
kind  of  desperate  fanatics,  who  fear  not  God  nor 
man.  It  is  a large  square  court,  paved  with  bricks 
along  the  four  sides,  which  form  what  may  be 
termed  the  wharf  of  the  sacred  water.  Along  the 
outside  of  the  pavement  there  is  a range  of  build- 
ings with  open  doors  or  windows,  facing  the  re- 
servoir; and  the  various  shady  trees,  which  are 
growing  in  the  pavement,  make  the  walk  agreeable, 
and  are  in  good  keeping  with  the  serious  character 
of  the  place.  The  pool  of  water  is  about  one 
hundred  yards  square,  and  is  probably  ten  or 
twelve  feet  deep.  It  is  supplied  from  a small  canal, 
brought  from  the  river  Ravi,  at  about  thirty-five 
miles  distance.  In  the  midst  of  the  water  stands 
a small,  but  neat  temple,  covered  over  with  neat 
gilding,  and  connected  with  the  pavement  by  a 
causeway  at  one  side.  At  the  north  side  there  is  a 
large  and  richly  decorated  temple  to  Guru  Govind 
Singh,  near  which  is  planted  a lofty  flag-staff, 
covered  with  gold  cloth.  Both  of  these  are  objects 
of  great  sacredness.  At  the  edges  of  the  pavement 


142 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


next  the  water  are  sundry  small  booths,  or  little 
buildings,  open  at  one  side,  and  containing  litde 
else  than  a Granth  and  a Guru,  a Sikh  Bible  and 
a Sikh  priest. 

A number  of  boys  accompanied  us  in  our  walk 
around,  and  behaved  very  insolently;  as  did  some 
beggars;  so  that  I was  not  sorry  to  see  an  additional 
guard  of  policemen,  and  soon  after  a company  of 
soldiers,  who  were  sent  by  the  chief  men  of  the 
police,  and  by  the  Governor  of  the  city,  to  pre- 
vent any  person  from  offering  insult  or  violence. 
It  is  usual  for  visiters  to  make  an  offering  of  money 
to  the  Granth  that  is  kept  in  the  Gilt  Temple.  I 
evaded  compliance,  as  it  would  have  been  wrong 
to  do  so,  but  softened  the  matter  as  much  as  I could 
by  ordering  a few  rupees  to  be  given  to  the  nume- 
rous beggars.  This  measure  was  far  from  being 
satisfactory. 

No  religious  place  that  I have  seen  in  India,  not 
even  excepting  those  in  Benares,  seems  to  me  as 
well  adapted  to  impress  the  minds  of  the  deluded 
worshippers  with  devotional  feelings.  Nor  do  I 
recollect  any  so  pleasing  in  its  whole  appearance, 
nor  in  which  there  is  so  little  to  offend  good  taste. 
It  is  a place  where  a Christian  would  love  to  see 
temples  to  the  living  and  the  true  God;  and  where 
he  would  be  delighted  to  observe  the  countenances 
of  the  crowds  of  worshippers  reflecting  love  and 
Christian  peace,  instead  of  Pharisaical  and  despe- 
rado hauteur.  The  Lord  hasten  the  time  when 
this  shall  be  the  kind  of  remark  which  the  passing 
visiter  has  to  make  of  the  reservoir  at  Amritsir, 
and  of  the  people  who  resort  there  for  religious 
worship  ! 

In  the  evening  the  Sardar  or  Chief  of  this  dis- 
trict, Lehna  Singh,  paid  a visit,  ostensibly  to  the 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


143 


garden  grounds  where  the  tents  were  pitched,  but 
really  to  see  the  “ Padri  Sahib.”  He  is  a very 
sensible  and  thinking  man.  In  the  course  of  the 
conversation,  he  adverted  to  the  almost  atheistical 
principles  or  rather  want  of  principles,  which  most 
Europeans  of  his  acquaintance  manifested.  See- 
ing a thermometer  and  compass  lying  on  the  table, 
he  soon  showed  that  he  perfectly  understood  the 
uses  of  each,  and  wished  to  know  why  the  magnet 
always  pointed  to  the  North.  He  referred  to  the 
healing  effects  of  some  kind  of  metals  when  ap- 
plied to  different  parts  of  the  body,  as  an  instance 
of  European  science;  and  asked  for  the  reason. 
I saw  that  he  had  heard  something  about  the 
“ magnetic  tractors”  which  were  so  famous  in 
France  toward  the  close  of  the  last  century,  and 
explained  to  him  their  history.  He  then  inquired 
about  the  extent  of  my  studies ; and  finding  I had 
paid  some  attention  to  Geometry,  mentioned  that 
he  had  an  instrument  which  he  did  not  know  how 
to  use,  and  asked  me  to  explain  the  mode.  Making 
a sketch  of  it  with  a pencil,  it  proved  to  be  a quad- 
rant, which  he  afterwards  sent  to  me  by  one  of  his 
most  intelligent  men.  The  Sardar  wished  to  know 
the  mode  of  taking  the  longitude  and  latitude  of  a 
place,  and  what  instruments  were  necessary,  and 
wherein  they  differed  from  each  other.  He  ad- 
verted to  spires  of  buildings  becoming  magnetic 
after  some  year’s  exposure;  and  also  remarked, 
that  iron  which  had  been  some  years  exposed  to 
fire  often  becomes  magnetized.  He  mentioned 
seeing  the  stars  in  day-light,  when  in  the  valleys 
between  mountains,  as  a parallel  example  to  a re- 
mark I had  incidentally  made  about  seeing  them 
from  the  bottom  of  wells;  and,  in  the  interview, 


144 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


asked  many  questions  about  these  and  other  sub- 
jects, evincing  both  thought  and  observation,  as 
well  as  a judicious  mind;  while  there  was  but  lit- 
tle shading  of  vanity  in  his  manner,  or  disposition, 
either  to  value  himself  on  account  of  attainments 
so  unusual  among  his  countrymen,  or  to  make  a 
display  of  them  to  others. 

I was  highly  gratified  with  the  scientific  part  of 
the  interview;  but  regretted  that  religion  did  not 
form  a more  prominent  part  of  the  conversation. 
On  proposing  to  present  him  with  a Ghurmukhi 
Testament,  1 found  that  he  already  possessed  one; 
and  the  attempt  I made  to  introduce  religious  topics 
through  that  door  was  prevented  by  the  questions 
already  referred  to.  However,  the  latter  may  pre- 
pare the  way  for  the  former.  Lehna  Singh  is  a 
middle-aged  man,  of  mild  but  dignified  manners; 
and  greatly  beloved,  I understand,  by  his  subjects. 
He  aids  the  Maha  Rajah,  when  necessary,  with  a 
quota  of  troops.  His  own  revenues  are  said  to  be 
about  three  hundred  thousand  rupees  per  year. 

February  5. — To  Jangri  ka  Phul,  fourteen  kos, 
or  twenty  miles;  for  I have  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  kos  in  this  part  of  India  is  nearly,  if  not 
altogether,  equal  to  one  and  a half  English  miles. 
The  general  face  of  the  country  is  more  than 
usually  barren,  though  there  were  many  villages 
and  numerous  karel  trees.  Our  station  to-day  is 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  village  already  named,  which 
is  not  very  large. 

Thermometer  at  three  P.  M.  in  the  shade,  60°. 
A newly  raised  regiment  is  encamped  in  our  vici- 
nity. They  muster  about  eight  hundred  men. 
They  are  commanded  by  an  Englishman.  There 
are  three  or  four  Englishmen,  as  many  French- 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


145 


met},  and  one  American,  in  Ranjit’s  service. 
Chiefly  by  the  aid  of  one  or  two  of  the  French 
officers,  a large  part  of  his  army  has  been  organ- 
ized and  trained  according  to  European  tactics. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

TOUR  TO  LAIIOR — RANjiT  SINGH. 

Reach  Lahor — Visits  of  two  fakir  courtiers — Interview 
with  the  King — Conversations  with  the  fakirs — Invita- 
tions to  see  dancing  girls  declined — Mussulman  version 
of  David’s  repentance — Appearance  of  Lahor — An  armed 
Maulavi. 

February  6. — To  Lahor,  twelve  kos.  From 
Amritsir  to  this  city  there  is  a gradual  descent  in 
the  plain,  so  that  a canal  had  been  dug  to  supply 
the  latter  place  with  water  from  the  canal  which 
furnishes  that  important  element  to  the  good  people 
of  Amritsir.  This  canal  runs  side  by  side  with 
the  road,  but  is  now  dry ; and  it  is  said  another 
has  been  formed  for  the  same  purpose.  Lahor 
lies  rather  south  of  west  from  Amritsir.  The  in- 
tervening country  exhibits  a more  barren  appear- 
ance, than  >any  other  part  of  the  Panjab  we  have 
seen;  though,  owing  probably  to  the  vicinity  of 
the  two  cities  just  named,  the  number  of  villages 
is  greater.  The  soil  is  of  a hard,  dark,  sandy 
nature.  About  five  miles  from  Lahor  the  whole 
scene  changes,  and  the  road  passes  through  an  ex- 
tremely fertile  tract  of  country,  covered  with  luxu- 
riant wheat  and  fine  gardens,  and  adorned  with 
beautiful  mango  and  tamarind  trees.  One  of  the 
gardens,  the  Shahlabagh,  is  a mile  by  half  a mile 
in  extent,  filled  with  orange,  pomegrante,  rose,  and 
13 


146 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


other  beautiful  trees.  This  tract  is  abundantly  irri- 
gated by  means  of  numerous  Persian  wheels. 

At  two  or  three  miles  distance,  we  entered  the 
ruins  of  the  Old  city.  A great  many  mosques, 
temples,  palaces,  and  tombs,  are  seen  in  every 
direction,  and  in  every  stage  of  dilapidation.  Some 
are  almost  entire;  but  most  are  greatly  injured. 
Of  some,  the  domes  are  yet  unimpaired,  while  the 
pillars  which  support  them  totter  in  every  breeze, 
and  must  soon  share  the  common  fate.  These 
ruins  are  very  extensive ; so  that  Lahor  may  be 
termed  the  Delhi  of  the  Panjab,  if  not  in  the  mag- 
nificence, at  least  in  the  extent,  of  the  ruins  of  its 
former  self. 

The  present  city  presents  a good  appearance  at 
a distance;  as  it  is  compactly  built,  and  has  seve- 
ral lofty  towers,  and  many  brick  houses  of  con- 
siderable height.  We  were  conducted  to  an  exten- 
sive garden  of  orange  trees,  in  which  a French 
officer  had  erected  a large  summer  residence.  This 
place  has  been  assigned  for  our  lodgings,  and  is  all 
that  I could  wish;  as  it  is  retired,  and  yet  suffi- 
ciently near  the  city,  being  about  a quarter  of  a 
mile  outside  of  the  walls. 

In  the  afternoon,  one  of  the  chief  men  brought 
the  Ziafat,  or  present,  with  the  addition  of  much 
profession  about  the  good  understanding  existing 
between  the  British  government  and  themselves. 
This  I was  prepared  to  expect.  He  is  a Fakir, 
though  nothing  in  his  manner  or  appearance  would 
indicate  that  he  is.  He  made  many  remarks  of  a 
religious  kind ; but  they  were  common  place  and 
indefinite  in  their  nature.  He  introduced  the  sub- 
ject of  an  English  school  in  a very  skilful  manner; 
inquiring  successively,  how  I,  who  understood  so 
little  of  the  native  language,  could  teach  the  Eng- 


TOUR  TO  IAHOR. 


147 


lish;  how  I should  act,  if  different  pupils  wished 
to  learn  different  branches ; who  should  decide. 
The  answers  seemed  to  give  much  satisfaction, 
and  suggested  another  question,  which  I think  was 
the  chief  subject  of  his  long  interview,  though  he 
presented  it  as  if  it  were  a matter  of  no  impor- 
tance; “If  a Government  established  a school,  who 
should  decide  on  the  branches  to  be  taught?”  I 
answered,  “ The  Government,  certainly.”  This 
was  “ very  good,”  he  thought. ' I took  care  to  add, 
however,  that  if  a Government  should  establish  a 
school,  it  would  still  be  optional  with  persons  pro- 
posing to  take  charge  of  its  instruction,  to  do  so  or 
not,  as  they  might  approve  or  disapprove  the  plan 
proposed;  to  which  he  assented.  The  whole  con- 
versation was  as  abstract  as  if  we  had  been  sitting 
somewhere  in  the  region  of  the  north  star ; but  its 
bearing  on  the  points  of  interest  here  on  the  earth, 
and  at  Lahor,  is  sufficiently  obvious. 

Fakir  Nur  Ud  Din  is  very  much  of  a courtier; 
perhaps  I should  say,  of  an  eastern  statesman,  in 
his  manners — grave,  cautious,  cool;  yet  abounding 
in  compliments,  and  apparently  very  self-compla- 
cent. He  has  a fine  large  forehead,  good  eyes,  and 
greyish  beard;  is  about  fifty  years  of  age,  I should 
think,  and  dresses  plainly. 

February  7. — Last  night,  a note  came  from  Nur 
Ud  Din,  to  say,  that  he  had  communicated  the 
conversation  of  the  interview  to  the  Maha  Rajah ; 
who  expressed  much  satisfaction,  &c. — that  his 
brother,  (the  chief  man  here,)  would  come  to  see 
me  to-day,  and  wishing  to  know  whether  I would 
prefer  to  pay  my  respects  to-day  or  to-morrow.  I 
sent  an  answer,  that  I would  prefer  going  to-day; 
but  would  leave  the  Maha  Rajah  to  decide. 

To-day,  Aziz  Ud  Din,  the  prime  minister,  call- 


148 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


ed,  with  a present  from  Ranjit  Singh  of  pome- 
granates and  grapes;  and  afterwards,  oranges,  &c. 
The  conversation  was  miscellaneous,  and  a little 
more  of  a business  character  than  yesterday.  It 
turned,  however,  chiefly  on  the  friendship  sub- 
sisting between  the  British  and  themselves,  now 
known  to  all  the  world,  cementing  the  two  nations 
into  one,  causing  them  great  joy  to  see  the  face  of 
any  European.  Then  some  inquiries  about  my 
health;  what  would  become  of  the  school  at  Lodi- 
ana,  if  I should  leave;  what  had  been  the  course 
of  my  studies;  whether  including  military  science, 
&c.  Having  mentioned  that  I expected  some 
friends  to  arrive,  he  inquired  very  particularly  both 
as  to  the  time  of  their  coming  and  my  probable 
leaving. 

This  Fakir,  as  well  as  his  brother  yesterday, 
paid  me  some  high  and  extravagant  compliments; 
chiefly  expressive  of  their  great  joy  at  seeing  me, 
and  the  great  pleasure  my  conversation  gave  them. 
I have  every  reason  to  think  they  were  perfectly 
meaningless,  if  not  insincere;  yet  an  instance  or 
two  will  be  amusing.  Yesterday,  the  Fakir,  said ; 
“ The  bud  of  my  heart,  (that  is,  my  dearest  bud,) 
which  was  shut  up,  has  been  opened  by  the  wind 
of  your  conversation  into  a fine  flower.”  To-day, 
at  taking  leave,  the  Fakir,  in  expressing  his  great 
happiness  at  having  the  interview,  said,  that,  “ I 
was  like  a treasury  of  precious  jewels,  which  he 
could  not  obtain,”  referring  to  my  not  being  able  to 
communicate  the  knowledge  to  him  which  he  sup- 
posed I possessed.  I was  quite  at  fault  when  he 
referred  to  “ an  ancient  tradition  about  the  philoso- 
pher’s stone  which  converted  every  thing  into 
gold;  but  if  even  a leaf  intervened  between  the 
stone  and  the  material  to  be  changed  into  gold, 


TOUR  TO  XAHOR. 


149 


then  the  latter  received  little  benefit.”  At  first,  I 
thought  the  remark  was  intended  as  a display  of 
learning;  but  saw  presently  that  it  was  a further 
compliment  in  reference  to  the  difficulty  of  com- 
municating by  an  interpreter.  This  Fakir,  is  a 
very  different  looking  man  from  his  brother.  His 
countenance  indicates  distrust  and  suspicion,  yet 
much  sagacity.  His  conversation  was  marked 
with  good  sense,  less  display,  and  a more  direct 
“coming  to  the  point,”  than  that  of  his  brother. 
He  has  evidently  been  much  in  intercourse  with 
the  world;  and  I detected  him  scrutinizing  my 
countenance  with  an  almost  embarrassing  closeness. 
He  is  about  of  middle  stature,  dressed  very  plainly, 
and  wears  a full  beard,  dyed  blue  by  way  of  orna- 
ment. 

February  8. — We  went,  about  9 o’clock,  to  pay 
our  respects  to  the  Maha  Rajah.  He  was  seated 
in  an  open  hall  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  enclo- 
sure where  his  palace  is  erected,  and  was  sur- 
rounded by  about  a dozen  of  his  chief  men,  all 
dressed  very  richly,  and  sitting  on  very  rich  crim- 
son cushions.  After  being  seated  on  the  floor  like 
the  rest,  and  after  exchanging  the  usual  compli- 
ments, I presented  the  English  Bible  and  Gur- 
rnukhi  Pentateuch  I had  brought  with  me  for  that 
purpose.  He  then  asked,  without  any  further  in- 
troduction, “Where  is  God?”  “It  would  be  as 
easy  to  answer  the  question,  Where  is  he  not?” 
“ Well,  if  you  don’t  know  where  God  is,  how  can 
you  worship  him?”  Inferring  from  what  I saw,  it 
was  their  intention  to  make  a trial  of  my  skill  in 
such  subjects,  I answered  more  fully:  “We  do 
know  that  God  is  every  where  present;  though 
he  specially  reveals  himself  in  heaven;  that  he  can 
see  us,  though  we  cannot  see  him ; and  that  he 


150 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


has  made  known  in  his  holy  word,  (pointing  to 
the  Bible  I had  presented,)  how  we  should  wor- 
ship him.”  The  answer  appeared  very  satisfac- 
tory. “ What  precepts  has  God  given  in  his 
word  ?”  I mentioned  the  two  great  commandments ; 
which  also  gave  much  satisfaction.  “ But  what 
will  be  done  to  those  who  disobey  his  command- 
ments ?”  “God  will  punish  them  with  eternal 
suffering  in  the  next  world.”  “ If  so,  why  do 
rulers  punish  men  who  commit  murder,  for  in- 
stance, in  this  world?”  “ Rulers  are  appointed 
by  God  to  punish  in  this  world  many  kinds  of 
wickedness;  but  all  will  have  to  give  an  account, 
in  the  next  world,  to  God,  both  rulers  and  sub- 
jects.” He  inquired  if  that  was  so  written  in  our 
Scriptures.  I took  occasion,  then,  to  mention  that 
“ Christians  believe  that  they  may  avoid  the  suf- 
fering in  the  next  world  which  is  due  to  all  men 
for  sin,  by  trusting  in  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ.” 
The  questions  proposed  subsequently  did  not  ap- 
pear to  be  intended  to  “ gravel”  me;  but  rather  to 
be  prompted  by  Sikh  curiosity.  Having  inquired 
about  my  learning,  and  whether  it  included  mili- 
tary and  medical  branches,  he  made  some  inquiries 
about  his  interview  with  the  Governor  General, 
two  or  three  years  ago  at  Rupar.  Then  he  inquir- 
ed about  my  acquaintance  with  horses;  and  rising 
from  his  cushion  he  led  the  way  to  an  outer  hall, 
where  being  again  seated,  he  asked  further  ques- 
tions about  my  health;  whether  married;  why  I 
wore  crape  on  my  hat ; why  I wore  spectacles, 
&c.,  to  all  which  I gave  briefly  the  proper  answers. 
Then,  telling  me  that  the  Fakir  would  come  to 
see  me,  and  to  talk  about  other  subjects,  permis- 
sion was  given  to  take  leave. 

February  9. — Yesterday  afternoon,  Fakir  Aziz 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


151 


Ud  Din  came  again  to  see  me,  and  two  boys  pre- 
sently arrived,  wishing  to  study  English  under  my 
direction  while  I remain  here.  They  are  the  sons 
of  one  of  the  chief  ministers.  Before  they  came, 
the  Fakir,  inquiring  about  the  books  lying  on  the 
table,  wished  to  hear  me  read  out  of  the  Greek 
Testament.  I turned  to  the  latter  part  of  the  third 
chapter  of  John’s  Gospel,  and  read  the  distinct 
testimony  there  given  to  our  Saviour’s  mission. 
Polite  as  the  Fakir  was  determined  to  be,  his  Mus- 
sulman prejudices  would  not  allow  him  to  say 
“durust  khub,”  (good,  excellent,)  to  all  that  was 
read;  though  he  did  not  manifest  the  opposition  I 
expected.  I had  an  opportunity  of  explaining  the 
sense  in  which  Christians  hold  the  doctrine  of 
Father  and  Son,  in  the  Trinity,  which  is  so  very 
offensive  to  the  Mohammedans,  partly  because  they 
understand  our  creed  in  the  sense  those  terms  con- 
vey in  regard  to  human  relations.  Afterwards,  I 
read  the  apostle’s  glowing  and  sublime  account  of 
the  resurrection,  in  the  15th  chapter  of  1st  Corin- 
thians; with  which  he  was  much  pleased.  The 
more  I see  of  this  man,  the  higher  my  opinion  rises 
of  his  talents  and  address.  There  is  a sound  of 
sincerity  also  in  his  voice,  which  is  pleasing,  even 
though  one  cannot  trust  it,  because  contradicted  by 
the  sinister  expression  of  his  eye. 

In  the  afternoon  to-day,  it  was  announced  that 
the  “ Bara  Fakir,”  the  chief  Fakir,  was  coming — 
this  same  man — and  presently  the  news  was 
brought,  that  he  had  stopped  to  say  his  prayers  in 
the  garden.  About  a quarter  of  an  hour  afterwards, 
he  made  his  appearance,  and  told  me  himself  that 
he  had  been  at  prayers.  I made  some  remarks 
about  that  being  a good  employment,  which  led  to 
a long  series  of  remarks  and  quotations  from  the 


152 


TOUR  TO  I/AHOR . 


Koran,  in  Arabic,  on  the  subject  of  religion,  as  if 
he  were  determined  to  inflict  punishment  for  the 
Greek  of  yesterday.  He  assented  to  an  observa- 
tion, that  prayers  should  not  be  made  to  be  seen  of 
men,  and  that  they  should  be  from  the  heart,  with 
much  cordiality ; and  went  on  to  give  illustrations, 
which  were  very  appropriate.  He  informed  me 
at  last  that  he  was  a Sufi  Mussulman,  (nearly  a 
freethinker  in  that  church,)  and  believed  in  all  the 
prophets;  Jewish,  Christian,  and  Mussulman,  to 
the  number  of  many  thousand. 

One  thing  in  which  we  both  agreed  was,  that 
we  should  not  reason  or  dispute  about  any  thing 
that  God  makes  known  for  us  to  believe;  but 
should  receive  it  at  once.  I stipulated,  however, 
that  we  should  exercise  our  reason  to  judge  what 
God  had  revealed,  or  what  book  contained  his  will. 
To  this  he  agreed  after  some  demurring.  I then 
wished  him,  as  he  was  a learned  Mussulman,  to 
tell  me,  in  some  of  his  visits,  why  he  believed  the 
Koran  to  be  the  word  of  God.  The  request  was 
obviously  not  very  agreeable.  However,  he  quot- 
ed, in  a sort  of  singing,  or  chanting  tone,  a long 
Arabic  sentence  from  the  Koran  about  God,  as  our 
Creator,  Preserver,  &c.;  and  ended  with  telling 
me,  that  Mohammed  had  challenged  the  Arabs  to 
produce  any  thing  equal  to  a chapter  of  the  Koran, 
which  he,  (the  Prophet,)  though  illiterate,  had 
spoken  to  them  ; and,  if  they  could  not  do  so,  then 
they  should  believe  in  his  mission.  The  inference 
from  the  Fakir’s  argument  was  obvious  ; but  as  I 
had  previously  obtained  his  consent  to  hear  me 
explain  our  religion  at  some  other  time,  I deemed 
it  best  to  wave  argument  on  this  occasion. 

In  the  evening,  a guard  of  forty  soldiers  was 
sent.  It  would  be  useless  to  decline  their  service  ; 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR.  153 

as  it  would  be  said  they  are  necessary  for  the  Maha 
Rajah’s  dignity,  if  not  for  mine. 

February  11. — At  an  early  hour  to-day,  the 
Maha  Rajah  sent  one  of  his  officers  to  conduct  me 
to  pay  him  a visit.  He  was  encamped  on  the 
plain  about  two  miles  from  the  city,  preparatory 
to  going  on  a hunting  excursion.  A regiment  of 
fine  looking  men  were  on  guard,  and  a considera- 
ble number  of  fine  horses,  in  which  Ranjit  takes 
great  pleasure;  and  some  elephants  were  also 
brought  forward  for  purposes  of  parade.  The 
tent,  which  was  quite  large,  was  made  of  fine  Cash- 
mere  shawls.  In  the  Rajah’s  immediate  presence 
there  was  no  particular  display  of  state  on  this 
occasion. 

He  received  me  with  much  favour;  which  I 
soon  perceived  was  owing  not  a little  to  his  having 
heard  from  his  Envoy  at  Calcutta,  that  some  kind 
friends  there,  who  are  high  in  office,  wished  him 
to  show  me  kind  attentions.  It  is  almost  amusing 
to  see  the  anxiety  which  pervades  this  court,  to 
please  the  English  authorities.  He  made  some 
remarks  about  my  having  begged  to  decline  accom- 
panying him  on  his  hunting  tour;  and  promised  to 
send  for  me,  if  he  should  find  any  lions  or  tigers. 

A few  days  ago,  he  had  sent  me  an  invitation  to 
be  present  at  a public  entertainment;  which  I had 
accepted  at  first,  but  afterwards,  on  further  reflec- 
tion, had  desired  to  be  excused  from  going,  as  I 
learned  that  a part  of  the  amusement  was  to  con- 
sist in  the  dancing  of  the  Nach  girls.  The  cir- 
cumstance was  quite  an  awkward  one,  and  I fear 
gave  offence;  but  I feel  glad  to  have  been  led  to 
think  of  the  impropriety  of  being  present,  before 
it  was  too  late  to  draw  back.  To-day,  a good 
many  of  his  remarks  had  an  indirect  reference  to 
14 


154 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


that  circumstance.  He  inquired  particularly  about 
our  liberty  to  drink  wine,  which  was  part  of  the 
amusement,  and  which,  knowing  the  scruples  of 
the  Mussulmans,  he  may  have  supposed  to  have 
been  my  real  motive  for  declining.  However,  I 
honestly  explained,  that  our  religion  forbids  all 
loose  conduct  in  women,  and  also  all  encourage- 
ment of  such  conduct  by  men;  and  that  I could 
not  be  present  without  thereby  giving  the  sanction 
of  my  influence  to  the  shameful  profession  of  these 
girls.  He  said  something  about  their  performance 
being  in  his  presence,  and  not  at  my  house,  and 
added,  “If  you  have  not  seen  the  Nach  girls  of 
Lahor,  what  have  you  seen  ?”  The  higher  classes 
in  this  country  are  passionately  fond  of  witnessing 
these  dances.  But  I persisted  in  thinking  that  the 
influence  of  my  example  would  be  the  same  in 
either  case,  and  in  declining,  with  as  good  a grace 
as  I could,  to  see  them.  When  he  found  1 was 
firm,  he  paid  some  compliments  to  my  consistency. 
I note  this  circumstance  the  more  readily,  because 
it  throws  some  light  upon  the  corrupt  manners  of 
this  court,  and  because  I felt  thankful  at  having  the 
opportunity  of  partially  explaining  the  precepts  of 
our  religion  in  regard  to  a vice  which  is  so  very 
common  in  that  dark  land. 

February  12. — Fakir  Nur  Ud  Din  to-day  re- 
marked, that  in  his  religion  their  prayers  were  in 
Arabic,  according  to  certain  forms;  and  wished  me 
to  tell  him  about  our  forms  of  prayer.  I mentioned 
that  we  were  required  to  pray  with  the  understand- 
ing, and  therefore  made  use  of  a language  which 
we  could  understand;  and  that  our  Sacred  Scrip- 
tures teach  us  how  to  pray,  and  what  to  pray  for, 
but  give  us  few  forms.  After  reading  Matthew  vi. 
5 — 13,  we  had  a long  conversation  on  religion,  as 


TOUR  TO  LABOR. 


155 


to  the  mode  of  obtaining  pardon  for  sin.  He  urged 
that  it  was  only  necessary  to  be  sorry  for  it.  I 
referred  him  to  the  course  of  human  justice,  which 
mere  sorrow  could  not  arrest,  and  explained  to  him 
our  belief  in  the  satisfaction  which  Christ  has  made. 
He  then  professed  to  believe  in  the  Pentateuch, 
the  Gospels,  and  the  Koran;  in  Moses,  Christ,  and 
Mohammed.  I referred  him  to  some  of  the  points, 
not  only  of  difference,  but  of  contradiction,  be- 
tween the  latter  and  the  former;  especially,  that 
the  one  requires  confidence  in  Christ  Jesus,  as 
Mediator  between  God  and  men,  and  in  no  other; 
while  the  other  requires  the  same  confidence  in 
Mohammed,  and  in  no  other.  He  professed  to 
believe  them  both  ! 

February  15,  Lord's  Day. — The  chief  Fakir 
came  and  spent  two  or  three  hours  in  conversation 
concerning  various  important  topics  of  religion.  I 
was  glad  to  find  that  his  brother  and  himself  had 
been  talking  the  matter  over  since  our  last  conver- 
sation; and  this  man,  to-day,  seemed  anxious  to 
show  that  repentance  for  sin  was  sufficient  in  the 
sight  of  God  to  secure  its  forgiveness.  This  he 
illustrated  by  quoting  the  example  of  David,  in 
reference  to  the  sin  against  Uriah.  I was  amused 
at  the  appearance  of  the  narrative  after  its  Mussul- 
man transmigration:  “David  was  at  prayer,  during 
which  it  is  a great  sin  to  think  of  any  thing  else, 
when  a very  beautiful  bird  appeared  very  near 
him.  He  was  tempted  to  try  to  catch  it;  but  it 
hopped  away  further  and  further,  until  it  led  him 
to  the  parapet  of  the  roof,  and  then  it  flew  away. 
But  he  was  thus  led  to  see  the  wife  of  his  prime 
minister  bathing  herself,  &c.  Then,  after  he  was 
convinced  of  his  sin,  by  means  of  a quarrel  be- 
tween two  men,  one  rich  and  the  other  poor,  about 


156 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


a camel,  lie  fasted  and  wept  at  the  tomb  of  Uriah, 
until  he  obtained  his  forgiveness  for  some  unknown 
crime;  but  God  would  not  confirm  the  pardon, 
unless  he  would  obtain  Uriah’s  forgiveness  for  the 
crime,  after  making  it  known  to  him.  Again  David 
fasted  and  prayed,  and  wept,  for  many,  many 
months,  at  the  tomb,  and  at  last  God  forgave  him.” 
I turned  to  the  simple  and  affecting  parable  of 
Nathan,  and  read  it,  and  also  the  verses  in  which 
punishment  was  denounced — a part  of  the  narra- 
tive which  the  Mussulman  account  of  the  story 
omits.  This  answered  two  purposes;  it  showed 
one  instance  of  difference  between  the  Koran  and 
the  Bible;  and  it  showed  that  justice  must  be 
satisfied.  The  Fakir  saw  the  force  of  another 
remark — that  we  are  always  under  the  highest  ob- 
ligation to  love  and  serve  God;  and  therefore  can- 
not, in  future,  atone  for  past  sins,  and  exclaimed, 
“ Then,  what  must  a man  do  who  has  been  an 
infidel  for  twenty  years?  Must  he  always  suffer 
punishment?”  This  gave  me  a fine  opportunity 
of  mentioning  the  method  of  escape  through  the 
merits  of  Christ.  I illustrated  these  remarks  by 
a reference  to  my  own  hopes,  which  seemed  to 
interest  his  mind. 

In  regard  to  the  oneness  of  the  Mussulman  and 
Christian  systems,  the  great  argument  always  is, 
that  God  may  give  additional  revelation,  adapted 
to  the  circumstances  of  different  people.  After 
pointing  out  some  essential  points  of  difference,  I 
explained  that  God  had  made  known  that  the 
Gospel  was  intended  for  all  men  in  all  ages;  and 
therefore  it  implied  a reflection  both  on  his  un- 
changeableness and  his  wisdom,  as  well  as  his 
truth,  to  admit  the  Mussulman  system.  He  asked 
where  it  was  expressly  written  that  it  was  intended 


TOUR  TO  LAIIOR. 


157 


always  for  all.  I referred  to  the  commission  given 
by  our  Saviour  at  the  close  of  Matthew’s  and 
Mark’s  Gospels,  and  also  the  solemn  conclusion 
of  the  Bible  in  the  last  of  Revelation.  It  struck 
me  as  singular,  that  those  Fakirs  should  wish  to 
claim  a brotherhood  for  their  system  with  the 
Christian.  Perhaps  it  is  owing  partly  to  infidelity 
as  to  any  system,  and  partly  to  a wish  to  rank  res- 
pectably in  the  eyes  of  those  whom  they  see  to  be 
so  much  their  superiors  in  other  respects,  as  Chris- 
tians usually  are. 

At  parting  with  this  man  to-day,  I gave  him 
three  tracts,  and  could  not  but  feel  grateful  that 
my  situation  or  standing  is  here  so  regarded  as  to 
secure  for  them  a thankful  acceptance,  and  pro- 
bably a careful  perusal.  This  is  one  advantage  of 
making  this  journey  under  the  circumstances  I 
have  made  it,  to  balance  some  serious  disadvan- 
tages, that  it  gives  me  access  to  some  of  the  most 
influential  persons  in  the  community.  The  Lord 
bless  the  truth  presented  in  this  conversation ! 
The  congregation  was  small — the  Fakir,  one  at- 
tendant, and  the  interpreter — but  their  souls  are  of 
infinite  worth,  and  their  conversion  would,  in  hu- 
man view,  produce  unspeakably  important  results. 

February  21. — I have  spent  several  afternoons 
in  “ sight-seeing,”  in  visiting  the  principal  public 
buildings  and  places  of  interest.  The  first  was  a 
large  mosque,  from  the  top  of  one  of  whose  min- 
arets there  is  an  extensive  view  of  the  city  and 
country  around.  It  is  in  a bad  state  of  repair,  and 
contains  nothing  worthy  of  notice,  unless  it  be  a 
kind  of  inlaying  of  clay,  resembling  porcelain,  and 
painted  with  bright  and  very  durable  colours,  as 
they  still  retain  their  lustre,  though  upwards  of 
two  hundred  years  old.  Next  day,  we  went  to 


158 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


see  the  mosque  built  by  the  great  Akbar,  at  the 
north  extremity  of  the  city.  It  has  three  domes, 
faced  on  the  outside  with  white  marble,  and  its 
four  large  and  lofty  minarets,  faced  with  a fine 
red  sandstone,  are  among  the  most  conspicuous 
objects  in  the  city.  But  now  all  is  in  a state  of 
ruinous  decay,  the  whole  place  being  used  as  bar- 
racks for  a company  of  infantry,  who  pile  up  their 
arms  in  one  apartment  of  the  most  sacred  part  of 
the  mosque,  while  they  sleep  in  another.  These 
minarets  are  probably  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  high.  It  is  said  that  this  mosque  was  built 
after  the  model  of  the  Juma  Masjid,  at  Delhi;  but 
it  is  every  way  inferior  to  that  celebrated  building. 
A branch  of  the  Ravi  washes  the  northern  founda- 
tion of  this  mosque.  The  palace  of  Akbar  con- 
tains one  tolerably  good  hall  of  audience,  open  on 
three  sides,  supported  by  graceful  marble  columns, 
and  having  a recess  on  the  fourth  side  for  the  royal 
seat — all  on  the  same  plan,  and  nearly  as  good  as 
in  the  palace  at  Delhi.  But  in  what  a changing 
world  we  live  ! In  the  hall  where  suppliant  princes 
once  knelt  in  the  great  emperor’s  presence,  Ran- 
j it  now  keeps  picketed  among  the  marble  columns 
some  half  a dozen  horses  ! There  are  various 
apartments  adjoining  this  hall  of  audience;  some 
of  them  designed  for  the  females  of  the  Rajah’s 
family;  others  covered  with  paintings  of  Hindu 
gods  and  goddesses.  Among  the  paintings  are 
two  representing  Ranjil  as  a suppliant,  but  stand- 
ing before  Guru  Nanak  and  Guru  Govind  Singh; 
while  another  is  intended  to  represent  his  interview 
with  Lord  William  Bentinck  at  Rupar.  The  Eng- 
lish people,  in  the  hands  of  the  artist,  have  been 
made  to  present  a most  ridiculous  appearance. 
The  art  of  painting  is  obviously  in  a rude  state 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


159 


among  these  people.  But  these  efforts  attracted 
many  exclamations  of  good,  good,  from  the  attend- 
ants. The  best  parts  of  the  display  of  taste  are 
the  numerous  jets  d’eau,  to  keep  the  air  fresh  and 
cool. 

In  visiting  these  “ lions”  of  the  city,  we  usually 
rode  on  an  elephant — the  best  mode  in  such  dirty 
streets  as  we  had  to  traverse.  A sewer,  containing 
black,  filthy  mud  and  water,  runs  in  the  middle  of 
every  street,  threatening  defilement,  unless  a per- 
son is  elevated  too  high  to  be  spattered  when  a 
galloping  horse  dashes  along.  The  streets,  more- 
over, are  all  so  very  narrow  that  two  elephants 
cannot  pass,  nor  even  a camel  and  an  elephant,  as 
we  had  frequent  opportunities  of  seeing,  and  some- 
times at  no  little  expense  of  patience,  in  waiting 
until  the  way  could  be  made  clear.  To  meet  a 
string  of  some  twenty  or  thirty  camels,  as  we  did 
one  evening,  is  no  very  agreeable  matter  to  a per- 
son who  may  wish  to  lose  no  time. 

The  houses  are  from  three  to  five  stories  high, 
and  nearly  all  built  of  bricks  that  have  been  dug 
out  of  the  ruins  of  the  old  city.  Their  appear- 
ance, therefore,  is  quite  in  keeping  with  that  of  the 
streets.  They  are  built  very  densely  together;  the 
narrow  bazars  are  crowded,  and  the  streets  are  full 
of  people  ; so  that  the  population  seems  to  be  very 
great,  and  not  to  be  diminishing,  as  I had  under- 
stood. The  walls  of  the  city,  and  its  mosques, 
and  the  fort,  certainly  do  present  the  appearance  of 
decay.  But  that  seems  to  be  owing  to  the  Maha 
Rajah’s  neglect.  He  takes  more  interest  in  build- 
ing up  Amritsir.  The  population  of  Lahor  cannot 
be  less,  I should  think,  than  one  hundred  thousand; 
yet  the  present  city  is  a mere  village  compared  with 
the  ancient,  if  an  opinion  may  be  formed  from  the 


160 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


ruins  of  the  latter.  Those  extend  about  four  or 
five  miles  in  length,  by  three  in  breadth;  and  even 
now,  upwards  of  fifty  large  mosques,  and  other 
public  buildings  remain,  besides  a great  number  of 
smaller  ones — all,  however,  in  a most  ruinous 
condition. 

February  23. — To-day,  a respectable  Maulavi 
came  to  see  me.  He  had  a sword  sticking  at  one 
side  of  his  sash,  and  a pistol  at  the  other.  In  other 
respects,  his  appearance  was  very  pleasing,  being 
a middle-aged  man,  of  an  intelligent,  lively  counte- 
nance. I inquired  how  he  accounted  for  the  appa- 
rent change  in  the  spirit  of  Mussulmans,  so  that 
we  now  seldom  hear  of  force  being  employed  to 
make  converts  ; and  also,  how  he  justified  the  use 
of  the  sword  in  making  proselytes.  The  questions 
were  rather  difficult  to  answer.  However,  he  re- 
ferred to  the  command  of  God  in  the  Koran — 
thought  the  practice  proper  only  when  the  infidels 
refused  to  believe  after  suitable  efforts  had  been 
made  to  convince  them,  and  concluded  with  the 
usual  remark,  that  it  is  not  proper  to  reason  about 
God’s  commandments.  The  latter  remark  I,  of 
course,  assented  to,  when  we  know  what  God  has 
commanded,  but  not  till  then.  I explained  to  him 
our  mode  of  advocating  Christianity;  adding,  that, 
as  to  those  who  refuse  to  believe  in  Jesus,  we  think 
it  both  their  loss  and  their  sin.  For  the  former, 
we  pity  them ; and,  as  to  the  latter,  we  are  not 
able  to  punish  them  as  they  deserve,  but  prefer  to 
leave  them  in  the  hands  of  God ; and  then  asked, 
which  plan  he  thought  most  honourable  to  the 
character  of  God?  After  approving  of  our  method, 
he  evaded  expressing  an  opinion  as  to  which  is 
best.  On  promising  him  the  loan  of  a Testament, 
he  took  leave.  He  says  there  are  about  a dozen 
Maulavis  in  this  city. 


HUNTING  EXCURSION. 


161 


CHAPTER  XII. 

RANJIT  SINGH’S  HUNTING  EXCURSION NOTES  ON  THE  PAN- 

JAB, AND  THE  SIKHS. 

Leave  Lahor  for  the  hunting  ground — Hunting  Company 
— Manner  of  despatching  business  at  Court — Dismission 
granted — Notes  on  the  Panjdb  and  the  Sikhs. 

February  28. — Agreeably  to  an  arrangement  made 
within  the  last  few  days,  I left  Lahor  this  after- 
noon, to  join  the  Maha  Rajah  on  the  hunting 
ground.  Fakir  Nur  Ud  Din  came  to  conduct  me 
out  of  the  city.  We  had  some  conversation  about 
the  prophecies  contained  in  our  Sacred  Scriptures, 
which  grew  out  of  an  inquiry  of  his  about  the  fore- 
telling of  the  future  by  astrology.  He  wished  to 
know  what  would  come  to  pass  according  to  our 
prophecies.  After  referring  him  to  several  that 
have  been  fulfilled,  I read  some  passages  out  of 
Isaiah  concerning  the  future  progress  of  the  gos- 
pel. They  appeared  interesting  to  him,  though  he 
did  not  express  any  opinion  about  them.  I could 
not  but  offer  up  a silent  prayer  that  we  may  soon 
witness  their  fulfilment.  Afterwards,  I gave  him 
about  a dozen  of  tracts,  as  a parting  gift;  with 
which  he  was  pleased.  Crossed  the  Ravi  about 
six  miles  to  the  southwest,  and  encamped  in  the 
midst  of  wheat  fields  two  or  three  miles  from  the 
ferry.  The  waters  of  this  river  are  of  a red 
muddy  colour.  It  flows  here  through  a flat  coun- 
try, and  is  about  forty  or  fifty  yards  wide.  The 
fields  of  grain  on  its  banks  are  extremely  fine. 

March  1,  Lord's  Day. — Halted  to-day,  though 
not  so  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  people  as  on 
a former  occasion.  W'ord  has  been  received  that 


162 


HUNTING  EXCURSION. 


a tiger  has  been  found,  and  they  are  anxious  to 
reach  the  hunting  party  so  as  to  partake  in  the 
sport.  The  Maha  Rajah,  too,  would  no  doubt 
prefer  my  omitting  to  observe  this  day ; but  it  is 
better  to  please  God  than  man. 

March  2. — To  Mahadevi,  ten  miles  over  a bar- 
ren heath,  without  any  cultivation,  or  any  produc- 
tion, except  a sort  of  desert  grass  and  some  stunted 
thorn-trees.  We  learned,  as  we  drew  near  the 
camp,  that  the  tiger  had  been  killed  yesterday, 
much  to  the  regret  of  the  people  with  me. 

In  the  afternoon  I went  with  the  Maha  Rajah 
and  his  people  on  their  daily  hunt.  The  company 
was  very  singular  in  appearance  to  my  eye,  con- 
sisting of  several  hundred  men,  in  white,  yellow, 
and  red,  and  often  very  rich,  robes  and  uniforms; 
some  on  elephants,  of  which  there  were  nearly 
thirty;  some  on  camels;  many  on  all  sorts  of 
horses,  from  the  very  finest  to  the  most  sorry;  and 
more  still  on  foot,  some  carrying  guns,  others 
swords,  others  spears  and  shields;  some  leading 
dogs,  others  carrying  falcons ; and  all  this  caval- 
cade in  the  midst  of  a barren  plain,  covered  only 
with  densely  standing  long  grass,  and  scrub  thorn 
bushes.  YVe  took  a circuit  of  several  miles,  but 
started  nothing,  except  a few  birds  and  deer. 
There  is  no  little  enthusiasm  of  feeling  on  such  an 
occasion;  and  I was  not  sorry  to  have  the  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  this  favourite  sport  of  eastern 
kings.  Had  some  miscellaneous  conversation  with 
the  Rajah  by  the  way,  and  more  after  our  return. 
Almost  the  only  topic  of  importance  was  a state- 
ment, on  being  asked  if  I had  read  the  books  of 
different  religious  systems,  that  the  Christian  reli- 
gion differed  from  others  chiefly  in  teaching  that 
all  men  are  sinners,  and  that  Christ  died  to  open 


NOTES  ON  THE  PANJAB,  ETC.  163 

the  way  for  pardon  to  be  given;  and  hence  it  is 
that  we  love  him  so  much.  To  all  which,  at  the 
end  of  each  clause,  the  Maha  Rajah  gave  his  short, 
but  expressive  “ thik" — good.  I was  not  sorry 
to  find  that  my  declining  to  see  the  dancing  girls 
had  been  thought  about;  and  it  led  to  a question  or 
two  which  opened  the  door  for  stating  the  seventh 
commandment,  and  some  other  duties. 

March  3. — To  a village  five  miles  east  of  Ma- 
hadevi.  While  at  the  Court,  after  arriving,  the 
Maha  Rajah  transacted  some  business  of  an  unim- 
portant nature.  It  was  curious  to  see  the  half- 
business, half-conversational  manner  of  their  pro- 
ceeding. As  each  item  was  mentioned,  something 
was  said  by  him  either  of  approbation,  or  to  modify 
it — which  was  assented  to  by  the  courtiers  seated 
around,  who  had  hardly  ventured  even  to  make  a 
suggestion;  while  anecdotes,  remarks  a^put  differ- 
ent persons,  queries  to  myself,  <fcc.  occupied  so 
much  attention,  that  only  the  writers  appeared  to 
be  employed  in  business.  They  watched  their 
opportunity,  when  there  was  any  interval  in  the 
miscellaneous  talk,  to  read  the  statement  they  were 
making.  I had  mentioned  during  the  ride,  that  if 
the  Granth  were  a printed  book  it  would  not  cost 
more  probably  than  twenty  rupees.  This  remark 
the  Rajah  repeated  in  court,  and  it  became  the  sub- 
ject of  a good  deal  of  conversation.  A manuscript 
copy  costs  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  ru- 
pees. 

March  4. — To  the  encampment  between  the 
three  villages  about  four  miles  south  of  yesterday’s 
halting  place.  The  Maha  Rajah  set  out  in  the 
morning  without  sending  me  word  of  his  move- 
ments. I was  not  sorry  to  have  the  opportunity  of 
declining  to  go  in  the  sun,  and  so  refused  to  fol- 


164 


NOTES  ON  THE  PANJAB 


low,  until  I should  be  so  inclined.  This  measure 
no  doubt  was  not  gratifying;  but  I do  not  feel  it 
to  be  a duty  to  ride  in  the  sun  and  dust  among  the 
crowd  where  so  little  seems  now  likely  to  be 
gained  for  any  general  object. 

March  5. — This  afternoon  I obtained  my  dis- 
mission. Previously  the  chief  minister  had  in- 
formed me  of  the  Khilat,  or  present,  that  would  be 
given;  which,  though  it  is  customary  to  give  on 
such  occasions,  was  yet  on  a much  more  liberal 
scale,  than  I had  expected.  The  Maha  Rajah  was 
in  high  good  humour  when  we  were  present.  I 
took  opportunity  to  explain  my  connection  with 
the  Missionary  Society,  and  that  the  presents  he 
had  been  so  kind  as  to  give  me,  would  be  made 
over  to  them.  He  listened  with  a half-incredulous 
air ; but  it  occurred  to  me  to  illustrate  the  matter 
by  a refinance  to  a rule  of  the  East  India  Compa- 
ny, requiring  their  servants  to  deliver  all  presents 
that  may  be  made  to  them  to  the  proper  officer. 
"With  this  rule  he  is  well  acquainted,  and  the  refer- 
ence seemed  satisfactory,  but  led  to  various  ques- 
tions about  the  society  : Is  it  a Government  Com- 
pany? What  objects?  I explained  the  manner 
in  which  funds  were  raised;  and  that  they  were 
given  thus  by  religious  people,  to  promote  religion 
and  education;  and  also,  that  those  who  were  sent 
as  missionaries  were  influenced  by  religious  mo- 
tives, receiving  from  the  Societies  merely  what 
was  sufficient  for  their  comfortable  support;  add- 
ing, that  some  of  them  might  have  received  larger 
salaries  at  home.  This  he  evidently  did  not  be- 
lieve; but  he  seemed  interested  by  the  explana- 
tion; praised  the  conduct  of  the  people  in  forming 
such  a Society;  wished  to  know  if  I would  give 
them  these  presents;  and  added,  that  I must  tell 


AND  THE  SIKHS. 


165 


them,  at  any  rate,  that  he  gave  the  horse  (a  fine 
Turkman  pony)  to  myself,  not  to  the  Society. 
When  I had  explained  that  the  Society  was  not  a 
Government  concern,  he  wished  to  know  about 
the  padris,  what  connection  they  had  with  the 
Government.  I explained,  that  it  was  merely  that 
of  other  citizens.  “ What!  if  a padri  commits  a 
crime,  will  they  punish  him  like  another  man?” 
“ Certainly.”  This  he  deemed  wonderful ; and 
certainly  it  is  very  different  from  the  impunity 
with  which  the  akalis  commit  the  most  disgraceful 
crimes  here.  I could  not  but  feel  grateful  for  the 
difference.  I was  very  glad  to  have  the  opportu- 
nity of  making  this  explanation  in  regard  to  these 
presents.  It  may  remove,  in  part,  the  impression 
that  I am  influenced  merely  by  selfish  and  pecu- 
niary views.  But  I fear  this  impression  will  re- 
main, notwithstanding,  on  the  minds  of  many  of 
these  people.  On  the  whole,  I think  it  would  have 
been  better  to  have  declined  receiving  any  of  the 
presents,  if  it  could  have  been  done  without  giving 
too  much  offence. 

In  the  evening,  the  chief  Fakir  came  to  bid  me 
good-bye;  and  afterwards  the  Rajah’s  chief  Mun- 
shi,  Kahand  Chand,  who  has  been  with  me,  by 
the  appointment  of  Ranjit  Singh,  since  leaving 
Labor.  The  latter  is  a most  respectable  man,  of 
clear,  good  mind,  and  pleasing  manners,  without 
the  obsequiousness  so  common,  and  with  much 
apparent  sincerity.  I have  become  much  interested 
in  him.  We  had  a good  deal  of  conversation, 
chiefly  on  religious  subjects.  He  inquired  what 
was  the  appearance  of  God,  how  we  could  think 
of  him,  &c.  In  reply,  I illustrated  my  remarks 
by  referring  to  our  own  spirits.  He  seemed  inte- 
rested in  hearing  of  the  way  our  Sacred  Scriptures 


166 


NOTES  ON  THE  PANJAB 


teach  that  sin  can  be  pardoned,  and  also  of  the  in- 
tellectual and  social  elevation  of  the  female  sex  in 
Christian  countries.  He  wished  to  know  whether 
their  advantages  were  owing  to  our  religion,  or  to 
our  usage  or  custom.  I told  him  of  their  condition 
when  our  forefathers  were  heathens.  Expressing 
his  warm  wishes  that  my  health  may  be  restored, 
so  that  I might  remain  in  this  country,  and  he 
might  become  better  acquainted  with  me  in  future; 
kind  feelings  which  I sincerely  reciprocated  with 
my  best  wishes  in  return;  we  exchanged  our  last 
farewell.  I could  not  but  feel  sorry  at  parting 
with  these  men.  In  many  respects,  they  are  inte- 
resting men,  whose  acquaintance  I have  been  glad 
to  make,  and  with  whom  my  intercourse  has  been 
of  both  a varied  and  friendly  nature.  But  now  we 
have  parted,  most  probably  never  to  meet  again. 
What  a precious  hope  Christian  friends  enjoy 
when  separated!  Whatever  be  their  path  on  earth, 
they  can  look  upwards  to  a place  of  meeting,  to 
say.  Farewell,  no  more  for  ever! 

The  following  summary  views  of  the  informa- 
tion acquired  during  this  tour  was  communicated 
to  the  Secretary  of  the  Society,  on  returning  to 
Lodiana. 

1.  Population. — It  is  not  easy  to  form  an  esti- 
mate that  would  be  at  all  exact.  It  is  probable 
that  Ranjit  Singh’s  rule  extends  over  two  mil- 
lions of  persons;  of  whom  the  greater  part  occupy 
the  country  bounded  by  the  Sutlej,  the  Indus,  and 
the  Himalaya  mountains,  including  the  valley  of 
Cashmere,  and  the  Hill  States  on  the  south-wes- 
tern sides  of  those  mountains  from  the  river  Sutlej 
to  Cashmere.  Ranjit  has,  within  the  last  few 
years,  made  some  conquests  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Indus;  and  has,  at  present,  the  possession  of 


AND  THE  SIKHS. 


167 


Pesliawer,  one  of  the  chief  Affghan  cities.  It  is 
doubtful  whether  he  will  be  able,  or  deem  it  ex- 
pedient, to  retain  those  conquests. 

2.  Climate. — The  name  Panjab,  in  strict  pro- 
priety, belongs  only  to  the  plains;  while  a large 
section  of  the  country,  descending  from  the  Hima- 
laya mountains,  is  quite  hilly.  Both  these  regions, 
and  also  part  of  the  region  south  and  east  of  the  Sut- 
lej, are  classed  by  the  older  writers  under  the  gene- 
ral name  of  the  Provinces  of  Lahor;  of  which  the 
population  is  said  to  be  about  four  million.  The 
climate  of  the  plains  is  much  more  oppressively 
hot  during  the  warm  season  of  the  year,  that  is, 
from  March  to  November,  than  that  of  the  hills. 
The  heat  is  probably  as  great  as  in  almost  any  part 
of  Upper  India;  and  there  is  the  same  variation  of 
seasons,  as  hot,  rainy,  <fcc.  In  the  cold  season  the 
thermometer  falls  as  low  sometimes  as  the  freez- 
ing point,  in  the  plains.  Last  winter,  in  which 
there  were  some  very  cold  mornings,  the  thermo- 
meter, at  Lodiana,  was  once  down  to  28°  in  the 
open  air  at  sunrise.  Lodiana  is  in  nearly  the  same 
latitude  as  Lahor,  and  about  equally  distant  from 
the  hills.  Throughout  this  region,  the  hot  winds 
begin  to  blow  in  April,  and  are  very  trying  to  the 
constitution  of  foreigners. 

3.  Language. — The  spoken  language  seems  to 
be  substantially  that  of  the  Hindus  generally.  It  is, 
however,  called  the  Panjabi,  and  contains  an  admix- 
ture of  many  Persian  words.  There  are  three  or 
four  characters  in  use:  the  Persian,  for  the  Per- 
sian language,  and  also  for  the  Hindustani ; the 
Dev  Nagar'i,  for  the  Hindui,  which  differs  but 
little  from  the  Hindustani;  the  Gurmuk/n,  for  the 
written  language  of  the  Sikhs;  the  Kashmiri,  for 
the  written  language  of  Cashmere.  The  two  last 


168 


NOTES  ON  THE  PANJAB 


characters  are  obviously  derived  from  the  Nagari; 
and  I should  think  the  dialects,  which  receive  these 
names,  differ  but  little  from  the  common  language 
of  the  Hindus. 

4.  Education. — It  is  not  probable  that  one  per- 
son of  every  hundred  is  able  to  read.  Of  those 
who  can  read,  the  four-fifths,  probably,  read  only 
the  Persian.  A few  of  the  Sikhs  read  the  Gur- 
mukhi;  and  a few  of  the  Gashmerians,  perhaps, 
read  Kashmiri.  I say  perhaps ; for  I never  met 
with  a Cashmerian  who  could  read  that  character'; 
though  I have  met  with  several  who  could  read  the 
Persian. 

Of  those,  who  acquire  a knowledge  of  their 
written  language,  few  learn  any  thing  beyond  the 
simplest  rudiments.  There  are  scarcely  any  books, 
and  there  are  none  adapted  for  purposes  of  instruc- 
tion. The  schools  are  very  few,  and  under  the 
worst  management.  Sometimes  the  teachers  are 
paid  by  religious  persons,  or  else,  as  is  most  com- 
mon, are  themselves  religious  persons,  such  as 
Fakirs.  In  other  instances,  a trilling  sum  is  paid 
by  each  scholar.  No  effort  is  made  to  discipline, 
or  excite  the  minds  of  the  scholars.  Every  thing 
is  learned  by  rote.  In  the  Mussulman  schools,  for 
higher  scholars,  one  of  the  first  things  is  to  teach 
the  boy  to  read  the  Koran  in  Arabic,  without  even 
pretending  to  teach  him  the  meaning  of  a single 
word.  And  this  is  considered  rather  a high  attain- 
ment. It  is  common  for  Hindu  and  Sikh  religious  _ 
people,  that  is,  pundits  and  gurus,  and  sometimes 
the  Mussulman  maulavis,  to  expound  their  respec- 
tive sacred  writings  at  their  religious  places;  and 
from  them  a species  of  knowledge  is  learned  by 
some  of  the  people.  But  in  all  the  parts  of  India, 
where  I have  been,  it  is  not  unusual  to  see  a reli- 
gious man  bawling  away  without  receiving  the 


AND  THE  SIKHS. 


169 


least  attention;  though  he  may  be  sitting  in  the 
most  sacred  place,  and  reading,  or  rather  chanting, 
their  most  sacred  writings. 

5.  Government. — Originally,  the  people  were 
governed  by  numerous  chiefs,  who  were  indepen- 
dent of  each  other,  though  of  very  unequal  power. 
These  chiefs  were  brought  into  subjection  to  Ran- 
jit  Singh,  who  would  no  doubt  have  extended 
his  power  over  the  chiefs  on  this  side  the  Sutlej 
also,  if  they  had  not  applied  for  and  received  Eng- 
lish protection.  Some  of  the  conquered  chiefs 
Ranjit  removed  altogether  from  their  possessions; 
others  he  permitted  to  retain  their  districts,  vari- 
ously modified ; but  exacted  from  them  a kind  of 
tribute — either  a quota  of  troops  or  an  annual  pay- 
ment in  money ; or  in  some  cases  both  of  these 
acknowledgments  of  subjection.  On  the  death  of 
one  of  these  inferior  rulers,  further  changes  were 
often  made;  though  the  general  usage  is  that  the 
son  shall  succeed  the  father.  Frequently  persons 
in  favour  are  rewarded  with  tracts  of  country  in 
jaglrir,  that  is,  for  which  they  pay  a specified 
sum,  and  then  have  the  entire  management  of  the 
revenue,  justice,  &c.,  of  these  particular  districts. 
Of  course,  they  may  act  as  oppressively  as  they 
please  ; and  usually  do  extort  as  large  an  amount 
from  the  poor  people  as  they  can.  It  is  very  sel- 
dom that  any  appeal  is  made;  as  it  would  require 
too  much  money,  in  the  shape  of  bribes  to  the 
courtiers,  to  bring  grievances  to  the  notice  of  the 
Malta  Rajah ; and  as  it  would  not  be  certain  that 
redress  would  be  obtained,  even  if  a hearing  could 
be  secured.  It  was  very  much  owing  to  the  op- 
pressive administration  of  one  of  these  favourites, 
or  rather  of  his  myrmidons,  that  the  beautiful  valley 
of  Cashmere  has  become  so  desolate. 

15 


170 


NOTES  ON  THE  TANJAB 


Tiiis  mode  of  government  probably  suits  Ran- 
jit’s  acquirements  better  than  any  other.  As  he 
can  neither  read  nor  write,  it  would  be  trouble- 
some to  examine  the  usual  forms  and  records  of 
proceedings;  while  now  he  holds  comparatively  a 
few  persons  responsible  for  certain,  specified  sums. 
Yet  it  is  obviously  liable  to  great  abuse.  Some  of 
the  Sardars,  or  chiefs,  have  large  revenues.  One 
or  two  have  each  about  twelve  lakhs  of  rupees 
yearly,  equal  to  six  hundred  thousand  dollars; 
another,  seven  lakhs;  another,  five,  <fcc.,  but  the 
greater  part  of  them  are  much  less  powerful.  The 
chiefs  are  all  Sikhs,  1 believe;  but  many  holders  of 
jaglurs  are  Hindus  and  Mussulmans.  There  seems 
to  be  no  law,  in  the  Panjab;  though  there  is,  in 
regard  to  many  things,  long  established  custom. 
By  all  accounts,  justice  would  seem  to  be  regard- 
ed as  a thing  to  be  bought  and  sold.  Punishment, 
even  for  murder,  is  said  to  be  rarely  inflicted, 
when  a sufficient  sum  of  money  can  be  offered  by 
the  criminal.  Fines  are  the  most  common  pun- 
ishment. 

Ranjit  Singh  is  certainly  a man  of  superior 
mind,  and  of  no  ordinary  character.  All  his  mea- 
sures, and  all  his  conversation,  evince  great  sa- 
gacity, prudence,  and  acquaintance  with  the  strong 
points  of  the  subject  under  his  consideration.  He 
is  much  superior  to  many  of  the  prejudices  and 
jealousies  so  common  among  the  Hindus,  and 
seems  anxious  to  imitate  those  things  in  the  policy 
or  the  customs  of  other  people  which  are  better 
than  his  own.  Thus,  he  has  introduced  the  manu- 
facture, amongst  his  people,  of  various  foreign  im- 
plements of  war,  of  several  fabrics  of  cloth,  &c. 
But  the  most  striking  illustration  of  this  remark  is 
probably  the  change  he  has  effected  in  the  military 


AND  TIIE  SIKHS. 


171 


force  of  ihe  Sikhs.  Formerly,  every  Sikh  was  a 
horseman,  and  no  other  kind  of  force  was  in  exis- 
tence than  this  rude  cavalry.  Ranji't  took  into 
his  service  several  French  officers,  followed  their 
advice  after  carefully  comparing  it  with  the  English 
inode  of  warfare;  and  now  he  has  a large  and 
pretty  well  organized  and  disciplined  army  of  in- 
fantry, with  the  usual  proportion  of  artillery.  He 
was,  in  his  younger  days,  of  dissipated  habits,  the 
effects  of  which  he  now  feels  severely.  He  is  of  a 
licentious  disposition;  fond  of  display,  yet  avari- 
cious; very  inquisitive;  inclined  to  pay  a supersti- 
tious reverence  to  holy  men,  even  though  of  a dif- 
ferent religion;  passionately  fond  of  fine  horses; 
very  anxious  to  please  the  English;  about  sixty 
three  years  of  age.  What  a confused  account  of 
his  character,  you  will  be  ready  to  say  ! So  it  is; 
yet  it  is  not  more  miscellaneous  than  the  character 
itself. 

It  is  understood,  that  he  is  anxious  his  grandson 
should  succeed  himself  in  the  chief  rule.  But 
there  is  no  particular  bond  of  union,  excepting  the 
personal  reputation  and  force  of  Ranjit  himself, 
to  prevent  the  political  affairs  of  the  Panjab  from 
relapsing  into  their  former  anarchy.  The  moment 
ltanjit  dies,  it  is  highly  probable  that  all  this 
region  of  country  will  be  in  confusion,  and  a dozen 
of  chiefs  will  declare  themselves  independent. 
Perhaps  such  a state  of  things  will  then  follow  as 
will  bring  the  Panjab  under  British  protection,  and 
make  the  Indus,  instead  of  the  Sutlej,  the  frontier 
line.  Such  a change  would  be  fraught  with  bles- 
sings to  the  people.* 

* This  ruler  has  been  called  hence  by  death.  His  ob- 
sequies were  celebrated  with  great  parade  and  expense, 
and  a dreadful  tragedy  was  witnessed  in  the  self-immola- 


172 


NOTES  ON  THE  PANJAB 


6.  Religion. — The  great  majority  of  the  people 
of  the  Panjab  are  Hindus,  especially  of  the  lower 
classes.  The  Mussulmans  are  treated  with  less 
forbearance  and  favour  than  the  Hindus  ; and  form, 
perhaps,  a fourth  or  fifth  part  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  Sikhs  are  said  not  to  constitute  more  than  a 
twelfth  or  fifteenth  part  of  the  population.  They 
evidently  are  much  more  allied  to  the  Hindus  than 
to  the  Mussulmans  in  their  worship,  and  in  their 
customs. — The  system  of  caste  prevails,  more  or 
less,  among  all  these  sects ; though,  in  regard  to 
the  Sikhs  and  to  the  Mussulmans,  it  is  not  enjoin- 
ed by  their  religion ; or  rather,  it  is  contrary  to 
their  creed;  especially  to  that  of  the  Sikhs;  but 
throughout  India  custom  is  all-powerful.  It  is 
supposed  that  this  detestable  system  has  less  hold 
on  the  affections  of  the  people  in  this  part  of  India, 
than  in  most  other  regions  of  the  country.  Hin- 
dus, when  they  become  Sikhs,  do  not  renounce 
caste,  except  as  it  bears  on  one  or  two  inferior 
points.  In  the  more  important  matters  of  food, 
and  of  matrimonial  connections,  they  adhere  as 
rigidly  as  ever  to  the  requisitions  of  their  caste. 

The  Sikhs  are  divided  into  two  general  classes, 
the  Sikhs , and  the  Singhs — the  disciples  and  the 
lions,  as  the  terms  literally  import.  The  latter  title 
is  given  to  the  followers  of  Guru  Govind  Singh, 

tion  on  his  funeral  pile  of  no  less  than  eleven  women ! 
Four  of  his  wives  and  seven  concubines  cast  themselves  into 
the  flames  which  consumed  his  body,  and  miserably  per- 
ished!— The  Panjab  continued  for  some  time  inaquiet  state 
under  his  sons,  who  succeeded  to  the  throne,  but  recent 
accounts  represent  that  country  as  in  a most  unsettled 
condition.  The  opinion  expressed  in  the  text,  about  the 
extension  of  the  British  power  over  the  Panjab,  seems 
now,  1842,  likely  soon  to  become  a matter  of  history. 


AND  THE  SIKHS. 


173 


who  infused  a military  spirit  into  the  Sikh  religion. 
The  term  Singh  does  not  exclude,  however,  the 
use  of  the  common  appellative,  Sikh;  but  is  rather 
employed  as  a part  of  individual  names;  while  the 
other  title  is  given  to  all  the  followers  of  that  re- 
ligion. There  are  some  points  of  difference  in  the 
faith  of  the  two  classes;  but  they  relate  chiefly  to 
the  more  military  spirit  of  the  followers  of  Govind 
Singh.  Hamilton  remarks  in  his  Gazetteer: 

“The  religion  of  the  Sikhs  is  described  as  a 
creed  of  pure  deism,  blended  with  the  belief  of  all 
the  absurdities  of  Hindu  mythology,  and  the  fables 
of  Mohammedanism.  Nanak  Shah  (the  founder 
of  this  religion)  professed  a desire  to  reform,  but 
not  to  destroy  the  religion  of  the  sect  in  which  he 
was  born;  and  endeavoured  to  reconcile  the  jarring 
faiths  of  Brahma  and  Mohammed,  by  persuading 
each  to  reject  particular  parts  of  their  respective 
belief  and  usages. 

“The  earlier  successors  of  Nanak  taught  nearly 
the  same  doctrine;  but  Guru  Govind  gave  a new 
character  to  the  religion  of  his  followers  by  many 
material  alterations ; more  especially  by  the  aboli- 
tion of  all  distinctions  of  caste.  The  pride  of  de- 
scent might  still  remain  and  keep  up  some  distinc- 
tion ; but  in  the  religious  creed  of  Guru  Govind 
all  Sikhs,  or  Singhs,  are  declared  equal.  The 
admission  of  proselytes,  the  abolition  of  caste,  the 
eating  of  all  kinds  of  flesh  except  that  of  cows,  the 
form  of  religious  worship  [having  no  idols  or  re- 
presentatives of  God]  and  the  general  devotion  of 
the  Singhs  to  arms,  are  all  at  variance  with  the 
Hindu  theology.” 

Again.  “The  Sikh  Hindu  converts  continue 
all  those  civil  usages  and  customs  of  the  tribe  to 
which  they  belonged,  that  they  can  practise  with- 


174 


NOTES  ON  THE  PANJAB 


out  infringing  the  tenets  of  Nanak  or  the  institu- 
tions of  Guru  Govind.  They  are  very  strict  respect- 
ing diet  and  intermarriages.  The  Mohammedan 
converts,  who  become  Sikhs,  intermarry  with  each 
other;  but  are  allowed  to  preserve  none  of  their 
usages,  being  obliged  to  eat  hog’s  flesh,  and  to 
abstain  from  circumcision.  The  Sikhs,  or  Singhs, 
are  forbidden  the  use  of  tobacco;  but  are  allowed 
to  indulge  in  spirituous  liquors,  which  they  all 
drink  to  excess.  The  use  of  opium  and  bang  is 
also  quite  common.  The  military  Sikhs  never 
cut  their  hair,  nor  shave  their  beards,”  and  are  re- 
quired to  wear  steel,  in  some  shape,  as  a badge  of 
their  sect. 

The  religious  people  of  the  Sikhs,  or  rather, 
of  those  Sikhs  who  are  followers  of  Guru  Go- 
vind, are  called  Akalis,  that  is  immortals ; or  more 
frequently  by  the  natives  Nihangs.  They  for- 
merly directed  the  national  council  when  it  was 
assembled,  the  Guru-mala;  but  there  has  been  no 
meeting  of  that  body  since  1805,  and  there  will 
not  probably  ever  be  another.  I have  not  been 
able  to  learn  that  they  have  any  particular  duties 
to  perform  as  ministers  of  religion.  I should 
think  they  correspond  rather  to  the  religious  men- 
dicants of  the  Hindus.  Their  number  is  various- 
ly estimated.  Perhaps,  including  their  families,  it 
may  amount  to  thirteen  thousand  persons,  or  some 
three  or  four  thousand  men.  They  receive  their 
support  chiefly  from  offerings  made  to  the  Sikh 
temples;  particularly  at  Amritsir,  where  it  is  said 
there  are  nearly  two  thousand  of  these  Akalis. 
Others,  however,  hold  small  jaghirs  from  the  Gov- 
ernment. Their  character  is  exceedingly  bad. 
They  are  a lawless  and  desperately  depraved  set 
of  men.  Some  of  the  most  shameless  things  I 


AND  THE  SIKHS.  175 

have  ever  heard  of  have  been  done  in  open  day- 
ij  light,  in  public  places,  by  some  of  these  people. 
The  common  remark  is,  that  they  are  the  worst 
people  in  the  land.  They  always  go  strongly 
armed ; and  as  they  are  quite  fanatical,  persons  of 
other  religious  sects  have  much  to  fear  from  their 
approach.  In  1808,  a large  body  of  them  attack- 
ed the  English  Ambassador,  then  in  the  Panjab, 
who  was  obliged,  with  his  guard,  to  fight  for  his 
life.  They  have  even  insulted  Ranjit  Singh;  but 
he  has,  within  a few  years,  imposed  some  re- 
straints on  them ; and  they  are  now  regarded  as 
less  dangerous,  though  not  less  depraved,  than  they 
were  formerly.  There  is,  perhaps,  reason  to  hope 
that  the  very  wickedness  of  these  people  will  con- 
tribute much  to  cut  short  their  sway,  and  to  render 
men  more  willing  to  receive  the  teachers  of  our 
mild  and  pure  religion. 

Amritsir  is  the  chief  place  of  religious  resort ; 
but,  in  addition  to  the  sacred  reservoir  at  that  city, 
there  are  several  other  places  of  religious  notoriety; 
as  the  birth  place  of  Nanak,  &c.  Some  of  the 
Sikhs  make  pilgrimages,  also,  to  the  great  Hindu 
place  of  worship  at  Hardwar.  At  Amritsir  there 
are  a number  of  gurus,  or  religious  teachers, 
whose  business  it  is  to  read  and  to  explain  the 
Granth,  their  sacred  book.  Some  of  them  are 
very  respectable  looking  men. 

Concerning  the  expediency  of  forming  at  that 
time  a mission  establishment  in  the  Panjab,  the 
following  extract  from  a letter  of  March  26,  1835, 
will  show  the  opinions  formed  after  making  this 
journey. 

“ I have  been  much  impressed  with  the  impor- 
tance of  having  an  efficient  mission  in  this  field — 
in  the  first  instance  at  Lodiana,  and  perhaps  at 


176 


NOTES  ON  THE  PANJAB 


some  other  places  on  the  British  side  of  the  Sutlej, 
but  eventually  to  operate  directly  in  the  Panjab. 

“ In  these  regions  there  are  dense  multitudes  of 
people;  not  at  all  inferior  in  body  or  mind,  natu- 
rally, to  any  other  that  I have  ever  seen,  and  far 
superior  to  the  great  mass  of  Hindus — being  ener- 
getic, inquisitive,  and  sagacious;  occupying,  also, 
a tract  of  country  that  is  immediately  connected 
with  several  other  countries  in  which  nothing  has 
yet  been  attempted  in  making  known  our  Saviour’s 
gospel.  The  claims  of  the  people  of  the  Panjab 
themselves,  are  very  great  on  our  benevolence,  and 
require  an  extensive  and  efficient  effort  to  meet 
them;  and  they  assume  still  greater  importance 
when  we  consider  that  these  are  just  ffie  people,  in 
character  and  in  geographical  situation,  to  carry  the 
knowledge  of  our  salvation  throughout  Central 
Asia.  They  have  not  now  either  knowledge  or 
inclination  to  do  so.  They  are  themselves  dark- 
minded  and  depraved.  But  I trust  our  little  mis- 
sion is  the  morning  star  that  is  to  precede  the  full 
day  of  gospel  light  and  influence  among  this  inter- 
esting people. 

“ I am  not  prepared,  however,  to  say,  that  it 
seems  expedient  to  attempt  forming  a branch  of 
our  mission  on  that  side  of  the  Sutlej  at  present, 
though  it  might  be  practicable  to  do  so.  We  had 
better  occupy  first  some  of  the  important  places 
Avhich  are  open  to  us  in  the  part  of  India  under 
English  rule  or  direct  influence,  where  we  are  not 
so  liable  to  capricious  interruption,  and  where  we 
can  enjoy  some  advantages  from  the  intercourse, 
and  in  some  instances,  from  the  friendship  of 
Europeans.  There  are  several  places  on  this  side 
of  Benares,  where  it  would  be  extremely  desirable 
to  have  such  a mission  as  that  of  our  American 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA.  177 

brethren  in  Ceylon,  there  being  ample  scope  for 
the  largest  efforts.” 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

LODIANA  TO  SIMLA;  THE  HILL  TRIBES. 

Arrival  of  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Wilson  and  Newton  at  Calcutta 
— Leave  Lodiana  for  Simla — English  Society — Notes  on 
the  Protected  Hill  States — Face  of  the  Country — Snowy 
Mountains — Productions,  Animals,  Climate — Population, 
Agriculture — Religion,  Language — Character  of  the  Peo- 
ple— Valley  of  Kanaur. 

After  reaching  Lodiana,  on  my  return  from  La- 
hor,  I had  the  great  satisfaction  of  receiving  letters 
from  my  missionary  brethren,  the  Rev.  Messrs. 
John  Newton  and  James  Wilson,  just  arrived  with 
their  wives  at  Calcutta,  and  accompanied  by  Miss 
Davis.  Though  so  far  distant,  and  so  many  months 
would  intervene  before  they  could  reach  Lodiana, 
I could  not  but  feel  most  grateful  that  ihey  were  in 
the  country,  thus  relieving  me  of  a responsibility 
which  should  never  rest  on  one  man,  that  of  lay- 
ing the  foundation  of  a system  of  efforts  for  the 
conversion  of  multitudes;  and  at  the  same  time 
giving  the  best  assurance  that  the  mission  now 
partially  established  would  be  extended  and  carried 
forward  by  the  Church.  Often,  in  hours  of  de- 
pression, I had  been  ready  to  give  way  to  discour- 
agement, fearing  that  our  efforts  must  be  suspended, 
if  not  altogether  abandoned.  The  prospect  now 
appeared  far  brighter. 


16 


178 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


Messrs.  Wilson  and  Newton  reached  Calcutta 
on  the  25th  of  February,  1835,  after  a very  favour- 
able voyage  of  one  hundred  and  ten  days,  in  the 
ship  Georgia,  from  Boston.  Stopping  at  Calcutta 
until  the  25th  of  June,  they  then  commenced  their 
voyage  up  the  Ganges  in  a pinnace,  a larger  boat 
than  a budgerow,  intending  to  proceed  in  tents 
after  leaving  the  river  at  Futtehgurh,  and  expecting 
to  reach  Lodiana  about  the  1st  of  November.  Miss 
Davis  afterwards  became  connected  in  marriage 
with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Goadby,  a worthy  Baptist  mis- 
sionary from  the  province  of  Orissa,  south  of 
Bengal. 

In  the  meantime,  following  the  doctor’s  advice, 

I had  gone  up  to  Simla  to  spend  the  hot  and  rainy 
seasons  of  the  year.  This  is  a station  to  which 
many  Europeans  resort  for  health,  its  Elevation 
making  the  temperature  pleasant  even  in  the  hot- 
test days  on  the  plains.  The  houses  are  built 
around  the  sides  of  what  is  called  Mount  Jakko, 
perhaps  five  hundred  feet  below  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  which  is  about  eight  thousand  feet  high. 
Many  of  the  houses  stand  in  the  midst  of  the 
forest  trees,  detached  from  each  other;  and  they 
have  a singularly  wild  prospect,  as  the  descent 
below  them  is  precipitous  and  deep,  into  the  nar- 
row valleys  that  lead  off  in  different  directions,  and  i 
the  sublime  snowy  ranges  can  be  seen  in  the  dis-  j 
tance.  The  number  of  natives  at  Simla  is  not  , i 
large  ; in  the  winter  it  is  almost  deserted;  but  dur-  u 
ing  the  six  or  seven  months  that  Europeans  spend  n 
there,  many  petty  shopkeepers,  of  different  kinds,  t 
bring  their  articles  of  trajfic  from  the  plains,  and  il 
give  to  the  Simla  bazar  rather  a lively  appearance. 
The  whole  native  population  never  exceeds,  pro- 
bably, a few  hundred.  Of  English  people,  during  m 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


179 


the  summer  of  1835,  there  were  from  one  hundred 
and  thirty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty,  including  a 
number  of  ladies.  This  was  a larger  number,  I 
was  informed,  than  had  visited  the  station  at  any 
previous  season. 

Of  the  Europeans  some  were  decidedly  religious 
people,  and  I should  suppose  nearly  all  were  re- 
spectful towards  religious  institutions  ; the  attend- 
ance on  our  service  on  Sundays  often  amounted  to 
eighty,  which  was  considered  a good  number,  as 
some  were  often  absent  on  tours  into  the  interior, 
and  others  were  in  poor  health.  It  has  seldom 
been  my  good  fortune  to  meet  with  so  many  intel- 
ligent and  agreeable  people  out  of  so  small  a com- 
pany; and  those  with  whom  I was  less  acquainted 
I am  not  disposed  to  think  less  interesting.  Of  the 
more  religiously  inclined  visitors  1 cannot  speak 
too  highly.  I admired  the  character  of  their  reli- 
gion, which  f thought  unaffected,  teachable,  and 
cordial,  and  at  the  same  time  well  informed  and 
cheerful.  Of  the  ladies  it  becomes  me  to  speak 
with  due  reserve,  and  yet  thankfulness  for  their 
kindness  must  be  my  excuse  for  paying  my  willing 
tribute  to  their  agreeable  manners  and  their  un- 
affected excellence.  I thought  them  in  manner, 
accomplishment,  and  intelligence,  very  similar  to 
ladies  of  our  best  society  at  home.  Many  very 
pleasant  and  well-spent  hours  were  enjoyed  with 
these  Christian  friends.  The  remembrance  of 
them  is  still  fresh,  and  must  ever  be  sacred.  And 
now  widely  separated  from  them,  and  they  from 
each  other,  my  fervent  prayer  is  that  we  may  here- 
after meet  in  a better  world. 

During  this  summer  I endeavoured  to  obtain 
accurate  information  concerning  the  Hill  States, 
making  tours  into  the  interior  for  this  purpose,  and 


180 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


consulting  with  English  gentlemen  who  had  lived 
in  them  a number  of  years.  The  following  notes 
were  made  out  shortly  after  leaving  the  Hills ; 
they  present  the  result  of  the  summer’s  inquiries 
and  observations  in  regard  to  a peculiar  region  of 
India,  and  a simple  minded  and  primitive  people. 

The  people,  who  inhabit  the  hilly  region  which 
lies  between  the  snowy  Himalaya  mountains  and 
the  Plains  of  India,  are  divided  into  numerous 
small  states,  under  their  own  chiefs;  and,  as  they 
have  been  under  the  protection  of  the  British  power 
for  several  years,  they  are  usually  called  “ The, 
Protected  Hill  States .”  The  information  concern- 
ing them,  which  the  following  notes  contain,  has 
been  collected  chiefly  from  intercourse  with  vari- 
ous persons,  European  and  Native,  and  from  per- 
sonal observation  during  seven  months’  residence 
in  the  hills. 

1.  As  already  intimated,  the  snowy  mountains 
and  the  level  plains  of  upper  India  are  the  two 
chief  Boundaries  of  this  region.  Between  them, 
and  extending  in  a direction  parallel  to  those  moun- 
tains, that  is,  from  North  West  to  South  East, 
these  hill  states  are  situated.  The  river  Sutlej  (Sut- 
lege)  forms  the  dividing  line  between  them  and 
the  similar  regions  belonging  to  Ranjit  Singh,  the 
Ruler  of  Lahor.  In  the  opposite,  or  South  Eastern 
direction,  the  west  branch  of  the  river  Gogra  sepa- 
rates them  from  the  territories  of  Nepal. 

The  length  of  this  region  is  probably  between 
one  hundred  and  fifty  and  two  hundred  miles  ; and 
the  breadth  may  be  stated  at  from  fifty  to  seventy 
or  eighty  miles.  Yet  this  estimate  must  be  re- 
garded as  not  very  definite,  since  it  is  modified  by 
the  character  of  the  country  in  particular  places. 
The  valley  of  Kanaur,  for  example,  belongs  to  one 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


181 


of  these  states.  It  is  almost  entirely  surrounded 
by  the  regions  of  snow,  and  extends  towards  Chi- 
nese Tartary  perhaps  not  less  than  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  the  nearest  part  of  the  Plains. 

2.  The  Face  of  the  Country  is  extremely  irre- 
gular and  hilly  as  the  name  df  the  chiefdoms  im- 
plies. Yet  the  term  hills  can  be  used  to  describe 
these  mountainons  regions  only  for  the  conveni- 
ence of  having  some  word  to  distinguish  them 
from  the  snowy  regions,  as  the  peaks  and  ridges 
of  these  lower  mountains  rise  to  an  elevation  of 
from  two  thousand  to  upwards  of  six  thousand  feet 
in  height,  and  not  a few  eight  thousand,  nine  thou- 
sand, &c.  In  many  parts  of  the  world  such  eleva- 
tions would  be  accounted  lofty  mountains ; and 
might  be  so  considered  here,  were  it  not  that  the 
snowy  regions  are  always  seen  towering  up  to 
such  a height,  that  these  mountains  seem  but  hills 
in  comparison  with  them.  These  mountains  re- 
semble a large  number  of  high,  irregular  peaks 
and  ridges  jumbled  together  in  every  kind  of  con- 
fusion, or  at  any  rate,  of  variety.  But  frequently, 
one  peak  or  short  ridge  perhaps,  may  be  seen 
rising  considerably  higher  than  its  neighbours; 
and  often,  an  irregular  ridge  may  be  traced  for 
several  miles,  leading,  in  many  instances,  from 
one  of  these  high  peaks  to  others.  Thus  Jako, 
the  mountain  around  the  sides  of  which  the  Sta- 
tion of  Simla  is  built,  is  about  eight  thousand  feet; 
and  from  Jako  a lofty  but  crooked  ridge  runs  ten 
or  twelve  miles  eastward  to  Mahassu,  a mountain 
nearly  nine  thousand  feet  high.  In  no  part  of  these 
regions  do  the  mountains  run  in  regular  ranges, 
with  level  valleys  intervening,  like  our  Allegheny 
Mountains.  Indeed  between  the  peaks  or  the 
ridges  there  is  seldom  any  level  ground  at  all; 


182 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


but  their  sides  decline  at  varying  inclinations  from 
the  top  to  the  bottom.  The  sides  are  frequently 
quite  abrupt  or  precipitous,  and  commonly  very 
irregular.  At  the  bottom,  or  foot  of  the  mountain 
in  the  Ivud,  as  it  is  called,  a water  channel  usually 
forms  the  boundary  between  one  mountain  and  its 
adjoining  neighbour.  The  northern  sides  of  these 
mountains  are  sometimes  covered  with  dense  pine 
forests ; but  the  southern  and  south-eastern  sides  are 
commonly  destitute  of  any  kind  of  trees,  and  pre- 
sent a barren  and  cheerless  aspect,  possessing  little 
interest,  except  where  the  people  have  been  able 
to  cultivate  them.  It  may  be  owing  to  the  effects 
of  the  rains,  during  the  rainy  season  (which  beat 
with  greatest  violence  on  the  south-east  sides  of  the 
mountains.)  that  there  is  so  marked  a difference 
between  their  different  sides. 

The  great  defect  in  the  scenery  of  these  moun- 
tains is  the  want  of  water.  There  are  but  few 
streams;  and  such  as  do  exist  are  commonly  very 
small,  except  during  the  rains  when  every  valley 
has  its  foaming  torrent.  At  other  seasons  of  the 
year,  a person  may  travel  “ up  and  down  hill”  all 
the  day  without  seeing  a brook,  or  even  a spring; 
unless  he  ascends  some  of  the  highest  peaks,  or 
descends  quite  to  the  bottom  of  some  of  the  val- 
leys. 

3.  Concerning  the  Snov:y  Mountains , it  is  not 
necessary  to  attempt  giving  any  particular  descrip- 
tions, except  as  their  appearance  from  these  Hill 
regions  seems  to  deserve  some  notice  in  an  account 
of  the  latter.  In  clear  weather,  those  stupendous 
mountains  are  seen  indistinct  and  interesting  view 
from  all  the  higher  parts  of  the  Protected  Hill 
States,  that  is,  from  all  the  places  where  the  view 
is  not  obstructed,  as  it  is  in  the  valleys.  They 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


183 


may  also  be  seen  very  distinctly  from  many  places 
in  the  Plains  of  Upper  India,  when  the  atmos- 
phere is  clear,  and  especially  after  there  has  been 
rain.  There  is  an  extremely  fine  distant  view  of 
them  from  Lodiana , although  that  city  cannot  be 
less  than  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  distant  from  the  mountains.  From 
Simla  the  nearer  ranges  of  snow-covered  moun- 
tains are  not  distant  in  a direct  line  more  than 
thirty  or  forty  miles  probably. 

The  view  of  those  mountains,  as  seen  from 
several  places  in  these  Hill  States,  is  extremely 
grand.  I have  looked  at  them  for  hours  from  the 
summit  of  Hatu,  and  also  of  Kupar;  the  former 
ten  thousand  six  hundred  feet  high;  the  latter 
eleven  thousand  feet.  These  mountains,  them- 
selves covered  with  snow  during  several  months  of 
the  year,  are  not  distant  probably  more  than  fifteen 
or  twenty  miles  from  the  regions  of  perpetual 
snow ; so  that,  in  a clear  day,  the  view  is  perfect- 
ly well-defined,  and  beyond  description  imposing. 
The  peaks  and  ridges,  viewed  from  this  side,  seem 
to  have  nearly  all  of  them  a slight  inclination  to 
the  north-east.  They  appear  much  less  varied  in 
shape  than  a person  may  suppose  they  would  ap- 
pear if  deprived  of  their  snowy  covering.  The 
snow,  no  doubt,  conceals  many  an  irregular  pro- 
jection, and  many  a frightful  chasm,  and  gives  an 
air  of  uniformity  to  the  outline  of  the  whole.  The 
valleys  are  generally  much  filled  with  snow,  which 
sometimes  rises  almost  to  the  summits  of  the 
ridges,  and  must  be  of  immense  depth.  In  so 
near  a view,  the  snow  which  fills  the  valleys  can 
often  be  distinguished  from  that  which  rests  on 
the  ridges  and  peaks,  by  its  inclination,  and  by  its 
more  settled  or  dense  appearance.  But  most  of 


184 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


the  peaks  and  ridges  are  themselves  quite  covered 
with  snow.  They  are  very  irregular:  some  are 
formed  into  long  ranges ; others  shoot  up  in  sepa- 
rate elevations  of  almost  every  shape,  looking 
sometimes  like  immense  battlements  and  towers, 
and  sometimes  like  lofty  piles  of  vast  dilapidated 
buildings.  At  a distant  view  in  the  afternoon, 
they  look  not  unlike  great  masses  or  embankments 
of  white  clouds,  brilliantly  reflecting  the  rays  of 
the  sun.  Sometimes  a dark,  rugged  peak  projects 
above  the  snow,  being  probably  too  vertical  to  ad- 
mit of  the  snow’s  resting  upon  it,  and  affords  a 
striking  contrast  to  the  pure  and  peaceful  appear- 
ance of  the  surrounding  snow.  The  difference  of 
their  appearance  before  and  after  the  rains  is  con- 
siderable as  much  of  the  snow  becomes  melted, 
leaving  the  summits,  especially  of  the  nearer  and 
lower  ranges,  more  naked  and  dark.  The  heights 
of  a number  of  the  most  elevated  peaks  have  been 
carefully  ascertained.  Not  less  than  seven  are  up- 
wards of  twenty-two  thousand  feet  high;  one  of 
which,  Dewalagiri,  is  about  twenty-seven  thou- 
sand feet,  and  three  others  about  twenty-five  thou- 
sand feet.  These  loftiest  parts  of  our  globe,  though 
distinctly  higher  than  other  parts  of  the  Himalaya 
ranges,  are  yet  not  very  prominently  so. 

The  snowy  mountains  may  sometimes  be  traced 
at  one  view  from  the  north-west  towards  the  south- 
east for  several  hundred  miles.  There  is  some- 
thing adapted  to  awaken  deeply  serious  feelings  in 
one’s  mind,  to  look  at  peak  after  peak  stretching 
away  in  the  distance,  and  then  to  invest  each  suc- 
cessive elevation  with  the  well  defined  but  cold 
majesty  which  seems  to  repose  on  the  nearer 
mountains.  These  snow-covered  mountains  cer- 
tainly awaken  feelings  quite  different  from  any  I 


LODI  ANA  TO  SIMLA. 


185 


have  ever  been  conscious  of  when  looking  at  other 
mountains.  These  seem  too  pure  for  earth ; too 
unchanging  for  time.  A person  is  ready  to  look 
on  them  as  • if  they  were  regions  commencing 
another  world.  They  are  certainly  adapted  to 
elevate  the  thoughts  and  feelings  to  a higher  world. 
They  bear  their  solemn  testimony  to  God’s  un- 
changing greatness  with  a force  that  mere  words 
could  never  impress  on  the  mind.  The  Chris- 
tian’s mind  is  rendered  deeply  reverential.  It  is 
filled  with  thoughts  and  feelings  like  those  of  the 
Psalmist  when  surveying  the  heavens  : “ Lord, 
what  is  man  that  thou  art  mindful  of  him !” 

Considering  the  blinding  influence  of  our  de- 
praved nature  on  the  mental  perceptions,  it  is 
scarcely  wonderful,  that  the  poor  Hindu  should, 
in  all  ages,  have  raised  to  these  snow-covered 
mountains  “ an  eye  of  religious  veneration.”  “ In 
the  Hindu  Pantheon,  Himalaya  is  deified,  and  de- 
scribed as  the  father  of  the  Ganges  and  her  sister 
Ooma ; the  latter  being  the  spouse  of  Mahadeva, 
or  Siva,  the  destroying  power.”  But  we  may  hope, 
as  well  as  pray,  that  the  glorious  light  of  the  Gos- 
pel shall  soon  spread  over  India.  Then  the  Hin- 
du shall  raise  his  eye  to  those  lofty  summits  only 
to  aid  his  mind  in  elevating  its  thoughts  to  the 
throne  of  the  great  Creator,  there  to  render  the 
homage  of  humility  and  of  adoration. 

4.  There  are  few  Rivers  of  any  note  in  the 
Protected  Hill  regions;  though  both  the  Ganges 
and  the  Jumna  take  their  rise  in  them.  The  Sut- 
lej runs  nearly  a hundred  miles  of  its  course  in  the 
country  protected  by  the  British,  and  then  forms 
the  boundary,  as  already  mentioned,  separating 
that  country  from  Ranjit  Singh’s  possessions.  It 
is  not  at  all  navigable  in  the  Hills.  During  the 


186 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


greater  part  of  its  course  among  the  mountains, 
the  descent  of  the  water  is  very  great,  and  the  cur- 
rent is  extremely  rapid  and  tumultuous.  There 
are  several  small  streams,  sometimes  called  rivers, 
of  which  I have  seen  only  one  deserving  of  notice 
— the  Girt.  At  probably  twenty  miles  distance 
from  its  source,  and  thence  fifty  or  sixty  miles  to 
its  junction  with  the  Jumna,  it  is  about  twenty 
yards  wide,  with  an  average  depth  of  two  feet; 
having  a current  of  from  four  to  six  miles  an  hour. 
Its  water  is  remarkably  clear,  and  runs  over  a 
rocky  or  pebbly  bed,  sometimes  descending  con- 
siderable declivities  with  great  noise.  A few  fish 
are  caught  in  this  stream.  Commonly,  the  streams 
of  water  in  these  hills  are  quite  destitute  of  fish. 

5.  Among  the  Trees  and  Productions  of  these 
regions,  the  pine  is  the  most  common;  of  which 
there  are  five  or  six  species.  The  larch  and  the 
cedar  are  most  frequently  met  with.  The  former 
resembles  our  American  white  pine;  and  the  lat- 
ter, the  species  which  in  some  places  is  called 
“spruce  pine.”  One  variety  of  the  pine  in  the 
interior  bears  a small,  oblong,  and  rich  fruit,  of 
which  most  persons  are  quite  fond.  It  is  called 
pneoza  pine.  There  is  a species  of  oak;  but  small 
in  size.  On  the  sides  of  the  higher  mountains  the 
maple,  birch,  horse-chestnut,  &c.  are  seen.  The 
Rhododendron  is  every  where  common.  It  grows 
to  the  height  of  the  locust  or  sassafras  trees  of 
America,  and  presents  an  extremely  fine  appear- 
ance in  the  months  of  March  and  April,  when  cov- 
ered over  with  its  large  and  gorgeous  scarlet  flow- 
ers. The  apricot  is  common,  and  bears  an  excel- 
lent fruit.  Peaches  do  not  come  to  maturity,  in 
consequence  of  the  rains.  The  apples  are  loler- 
bl  e,  though  found  only  in  one  or  two  of  the  val- 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


187 


leys.  They  would  become  very  good,  a person 
might  suppose,  if  proper  care  were  employed  in 
grafting.  Black  currants  are  abundant  in  some 
parts.  In  Kunaur . one  of  the  valleys,  there  are 
several  varieties  of  the  grape,  which  form  a good 
part  of  the  subsistence  of  the  inhabitants,  being 
dried  for  that  purpose.  They  are  not  made  into 
wine;  though  sometimes  a strong  and  very  intoxi- 
cating liquor  is  manufactured  from  them.  Walnut 
trees  and  wild  pears  are  often  seen.  Plantains, 
oranges,  mangoes,  &c.  are  found  in  the  valleys 
near  the  Plains. 

No  precious  Metals , lead,  coal,  nor  salt,  have 
yet  been  discovered.  In  a few  places  iron  ore  is 
found.  The  natives  have  very  small  and  simple 
furnaces,  in  which  they  make  an  inferior  kind  of 
iron.  The  most  common  rock  is  the  mica-slate. 
On  the  highest  elevations  gneiss  is  the  usual  spe- 
cies. Quartz  is  often  seen  with  both  the  mica  and 
the  gneiss.  Granite  is  rarely  met  with.  Other 
varieties  are  sometimes  found. 

The  Soil  seems  to  be  very  poor,  except  near  the 
bottom  of  the  valleys,  and  in  the  forests  on  the 
sides  of  the  mountains.  In  the  former  it  is  enrich- 
ed by  the  deposites  brought  down  from  the  higher 
ground  by  the  rains.  The  decay  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter accounts  for  the  fertility  of  the  ground  where 
there  are  forests. 

The  fanners  cultivate  various  kinds  of  grain ; 
among  which  are  wheat,  maize,  buckwheat,  bar- 
ley, and  several  kinds  of  native  grain.  Among  the 
latter  the  batu  makes  a very  beautiful  appearance  in 
the  fields  when  almost  ripe.  Ij  is  a plume-like 
stalk,  containing  a great  many  seeds  resembling 
timothy  seed  ; which  are  ground  into  flour  by  the 
natives,  the  red  covering  or  husks  serving  as  food 


188 


THE  HILL  TBIBES. 


for  the  cattle.  Some  rice  is  cultivated  in  the  val- 
leys. Potatoes  have  been  introduced  by  the  Eng- 
lish, and  grow  very  well.  The  poppy  is  cultivat- 
ed in  order  to  make  opium;  of  which  considerable 
quantities  are  manufactured.  Some  tobacco  is 
grown,  and  occasionally  patches  of  cotton  may  be 
seen.  Large  pumpkins,  cucumbers,  onions,  peas, 
&c.  are  to  be  had;  but  the  latter,  with  carrots, 
beans,  and  strawberries,  are  seldom  cultivated  by 
the  natives. 

6.  Animals  <$•<:.  Among  the  wild  animals  is  a 
species  of  leopard.  Jackals  are  common.  Foxes 
are  sometimes  seen;  monkeys  more  frequently. 
There  are  a few  snakes,  which  are  seldom  seen, 
however,  except  during  the  rains.  Lizards,  toads, 
and  frogs,  seem  to  be  much  pleased  with  this  cli- 
mate, if  a person  may  judge  by  their  numbers. 
Among  the  birds,  crows,  hawks,  and  kites,  are 
always  seen  in  large  numbers  in  the  vicinity  of 
towns  and  villages,  though  they  are  not  so  very 
numerous  as  in  other  parts  of  India.  The  golden 
eagle  may  be  often  observed  proudly  sailing  over 
the  valleys,  and  above  the  highest  mountain  sum- 
mits. They  sometimes  measure  ten  feet  from  tip 
to  tip  of  the  wings.  The  cuckoo,  swallow,  spar- 
row, jay,  and  a variety  of  other  small  birds,  are 
common  during  certain  months  of  the  year.  None 
are  at  all  remarkable  for  sweetness  of  note ; though 
some  of  them  have  beautiful  plumage.  The  house- 
fly, and  his  enemy  the  spider,  fleas,  and  some 
other  not  more  agreeable  insects,  are  too  common 
for  a person’s  comfort  sometimes.  The  bee  is  quite 
common,  and  honey  is  good,  plenty,  and  cheap. 

The  farmers  commonly  have  one  or  two  buffa- 
loes; or,  if  not,  small  cows  instead.  The  cow  is 
quite  a sacred  animal.  At  one  place,  the  natives 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


189 


refused  to  milk  them  into  our  vessels ; though  it 
seems  difficult  to  imagine  how  the  holiness  of  cows 
could  be  contaminated  by  doing  so.  There  are  no 
horses,  except  such  as  belong  to  the  lianas,  or 
chiefs.  Ploughing  is  always  done  by  bullocks  or 
cows.  Mules  are  sometimes  used  for  the  trans- 
portation of  merchandise.  Sheep  and  goats  seem 
to  thrive  well.  The  former  all  have  short  horns, 
both  male  and  female.  Fowls  might  be  kept  with 
the  greates  tease,  but  for  the  Hindu  prejudices  of 
the  natives. 

7.  Climate.  The  degree  of  heat  or  of  cold 
depends  chiefly  on  the  elevation.  In  the  narrow, 
precipitous  valleys  it  is  tolerably  hot  during  the 
summer.  At  Simla,  (seven  thousand  five  hundred 
feet)  the  thermometer,  in  the  house,  rose  to  80° 
and  82°  last  May;  but  fell  to  64°  and  66°  during 
the  rains.  In  the  latter  end  of  October  there  were 
hard  frosts  on  the  ground  in  the  mornings.  In  the 
winter,  there  are  frequent  falls  of  snow  at  Simla, 
which,  however,  is  soon  melted. 

The  rains  commence  early  in  June,  and  con- 
tinue until  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  September. 
They  are  very  heavy  indeed ; and  are  attended 
sometimes  with  lightning  and  thunder,  especially 
about  their  commencement  and  termination.  The 
worst  feature  of  the  rainy  season  is  the  dense  fog 
or  mist,  which  prevails  very  much  for  two  months. 
These  fogs  I have  not  seen  in  the  Plains.  They 
are  very  dense.  Indeed,  they  seem  to  be  literally 
clouds,  heavily  charged  with  moisture,  and  often 
so  dense  that  objects  of  the  largest  size  cannot  be 
at  all  seen  at  the  distance  of  half  a dozen  yards. 
They  often  rise  suddenly,  and  from  no  conceivable 
cause  of  a local  nature ; and  continue  sometimes 
for  a few  hours;  at  others,  for  days,  and  almost  for 


190 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


weeks.  They  do  not  usually  settle  lower  down 
than  six  thousand  feet.  At  high  elevations  they 
remain  during  all  the  rains.  They  are  very  oppres- 
sive to  persons  of  weak  lungs,  or  who  are  troubled 
with  difficulty  of  breathing.  The  heat  of  the  sun 
is  very  great  throughout  the  year,  not  less  than  in 
the  plains.  I have  been  obliged,  on  a high  peak, 
to  use  an  umbrella  to  protect  myself  from  the  heat 
of  the  sun,  when  the  air  and  the  wind  were  so  cold 
that  it  was  necessary  to  wrap  myself  as  comfort- 
ably as  possible  in  a winter  cloak. 

With  the  exception  of  the  sun’s  rays,  and  of  the 
fogs  for  six  weeks  or  two  months  on  the  higher 
Hills,  this  climate  is  considered  very  much  better 
than  that  of  the  Plains  for  persons  coming  from 
colder  latitudes.  There  is  something  refreshing 
and  bracing  in  the  pure  mountain  air.  A person 
feels  here  some  of  the  elasticity  of  mind  which  he 
enjoyed  in  his  own  country.  He  rises  in  the  morn- 
ing refreshed  by  his  sleep,  and  not  languid,  fever- 
ish, and  spiritless,  as  during  the  hot  season  at  any 
rate  in  the  Plains.  I believe  the  climate  of  these 
hills  is  considered  favourable  to  persons  whose 
system  has  become  enfeebled  by  the  heat  of  the 
Plains;  to  those  who  are  recovering  from  fevers; 
to  persons  subject  to  derangement  of  the  functions 
of  the  liver,  in  cases  not  constitutional  and  invete- 
rate. It  is  probably  favourable  to  most  kinds  of 
disease  in  India.  The  higher  elevations,  however, 
where  the  fogs  prevail,  can  hardly  be  salutary  to 
persons  subject  to  rheumatic  affections,  or  labour- 
ing under  pulmonary  complaints. 

There  are  three  or  four  places  in  the  Hills  to 
which  English  invalids  resort  for  their  health,  and 
where  some  medical  men  are  commonly  to  be  met 
with  among  the  other  residents,  at  least  during  the 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


191 


hot  months.  Of  these,  Simla  and  Mussooree  are 
the  two  chief  places  of  resort;  the  latter  station 
being  in  the  Hills  north  of  Meerut.  At  eacli  of 
these  stations  perhaps  from  one  hundred  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  persons  reside  for  several  months 
during  the  summer.  But  few  remain  during  the 
cold  season.  It  is  deemed  strange  by  some,  that 
the  stations  for  invalid  soldiers  are  not  established 
somewhere  in  this  region.  The  climate  would 
certainly  be  more  pleasant  and  salutary  for  them 
than  that  of  the  plains.  There  is  at  Mussooree  a 
school  for  English  children,  where  many  branches 
belonging  to  a respectable  education  are  taught, 
under  the  superintendence  of  a gentleman  and  his 
sister.  It  is  well  spoken  of,  and  affords  advantages 
not  ordinarily  met  with  in  India,  to  the  families 
who  prefer  a residence  at  that  station,  when  they 
are  obliged  to  go  to  the  Hills.  Sabalhu,  on  the 
route  to  Simla,  is  the  station  where  one  of  the 
Political  Agents  in  these  Hill  States,  and  where 
also  a medical  officer  permanently  reside.  It  is 
only  four  thousand  feet  high,  and  is  not  much 
resorted  to  by  invalids.  Sabathu  is  one  march, 
(fifteen  miles)  from  the  plains,  and  two  marches 
from  Simla. 

8.  The  entire  'population  in  these  regions  under 
British  protection,  I have  heard  estimated  at  two 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  persons.  There  are 
few  towns  of  any  size.  Sabathu  is  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  Hills,  and  yet,  including  the  vicinity 
of  eight  or  ten  miles,  it  does  not  contain  more  than 
twelve  thousand  people.  Rampur,  on  the  Sutlej, 
contains  about  one  thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  the 
place  where  the  chief  mela,  or  fair,  in  the  Hills,  is 
held.  On  that  occasion,  several  days  are  devoted 
to  buying  and  selling,  to  religious  duties,  &c.  It 


192 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


is  commonly  held  in  the  month  of  October  or  No- 
vember, and  is  resorted  to  by  some  thousands  of 
natives  from  all  parts  of  the  Hill  country. 

Usually,  the  Hill  people  dwell  in  small  villages 
and  hamlets  of  from  half  a dozen  "houses  to  twenty 
or  thirty.  In  a single  valley,  or  rather  on  the  sides 
of  the  two  mountains  which  form  the  valley,  nu- 
merous villages  may  be  seen,  generally  subject  to 
the  same  chief,  and  all  accessible  without  much 
difficulty,  after  a person  has  succeeded  in  reaching 
one  of  them.  I have  counted  between  twenty-five 
and  thirty  villages  at  one  view,  thus  situated  on  the 
sides  of  the  neighbouring  mountains;  and  I should 
think  that  a missionary  might  visit  all  on  one  of 
the  sides  in  the  course  of  a few  days,  spending 
several  hours  at  each,  to  make  known  the  Gospel, 
and  pitching  his  tent  at  night  at  a few  miles  dis- 
tance from  his  camp  in  the  morning.  The  valley 
of  Jubal  is  said  to  contain  not  less  than  fourteen 
thousand  people,  dwelling  thus  in  villages,  the 
greater  part  of  which  are  visible  at  one  view  from 
some  high  peaks  in  the  vicinity.  All  of  these  vil- 
lages might  probably  be  visited  by  a missionary  in 
a fortnight  or  three  weeks.  If  a person  could 
speak  the  language  with  freedom,  and  possessed 
the  patient  devoted  spirit  of  Neff,  he  could  not 
desire  a finer  field  for  serving  his  Saviour  in,  and 
for  doing  good  both  to  the  bodies  and  souls  of  his 
fellow  men. 

The  population  of  these  States  must  be  regarded 
as  very  great,  when  the  character  of  their  country 
is  considered.  Probably  not  more  than  one-third 
of  the  actual  surface  of  these  regions  admits  of 
being  cultivated.  The  proportion  may  be  larger 
on  the  lower  Hills;  but  it  is  much  smaller  on  the 
higher. 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


193 


9.  Agriculture,  fyc. — The  Hill  people  are  nearly 
all  employed  in  cultivating  the  soil.  As  there  is 
scarcely  any  level  ground,  they  are  compelled  to 
form  the  surface  of  the  Hills  into  irregular  terraces. 
These  are  usually  very  small,  and  are  shaped  ac- 
cording to  the  circumstances  of  their  situation. 
They  are  seldom  more  than  a few  rods  broad, 
often  only  a few  feet;  and  their  length  is  very 
various.  They  are  supported  by  low  walls  of 
stones,  piled  up  without  any  mortar  or  cement.  It 
is  no  uncommon  thing  among  the  lower  Hills  near 
the  plains,  to  see  terraces  of  this  kind  reaching 
from  the  bottom  to  the  top.  Often,  on  the  higher 
Hills,  these  rude  terraces  extend  as  far  up  as  the 
nature  of  the  soil,  or  the  coldness  of  the  climate, 
admits  of  cultivation.  Rice  and  other  productions 
of  warm  climates,  may  be  seen  at  the  bottom,  while 
some  of  the  hardier  kinds  of  grain  are  growing  at 
the  top.  These  little  fields  on  the  mountain  sides 
look  very  beautiful  in  the  spring  months.  When 
the  green  grain  is  springing  up,  it  requires  little 
aid  from  fancy  to  regard  the  mountains  as  cut  into 
irregular  flights  of  steps,  and  covered  with  nature’s 
newest  carpeting. 

The  implements  of  agriculture  in  common  use 
are  simple  and  rude;  but  the  plough  is  better  than 
the  kind  of  plough  used  in  the  plains,  and  the  har- 
row is  not  worse.  The  houses  of  these  people 
are  comfortable  for  Hindus.  They  are  much  more 
substantial  than  those  of  farmers  in  the  plains, 
being  usually  built  chiefly  of  small-sized  stones, 
with  timbers,  six  or  eight  inches  square,  placed 
along  in  the  walls  at  distances  of  two  or  three  feet 
apart.  In  the  interior  of  the  Hills,  the  houses  are 
commonly  two  stories  in  height,  the  upper  story 
having  a porch,  partly  enclosed,  along  the  entire 
17 


194 


THE  HILE  TRIBES. 


front  side,  from  which  a door  opens  into  the  apart- 
ments of  the  family.  The  lower  story  is  merely 
a stable  for  their  buffaloes  or  cows.  The  roof  is 
composed  of  flat  stones,  sometimes  of  slates,  and 
projects  so  far  on  the  front  side  as  to  afford  a cover 
to  the  veranda  or  porch.  It  is  seldom  that  these 
houses  have  any  windows.  Chimneys  seem  to  be 
unknown  throughout  India,  in  native  houses,  the 
fire  being  kindled  and  kept  in  little  clay  fire-places, 
and  the  smoke  being  allowed  to  make  its  escape  as 
best  it  can.  Some  of  the  richer  farmers  among 
the  Hill  people  have  houses  so  large  and  well-built 
that  they  would  be  quite  respectable  even  in  Ame- 
rica, having  verandas  on  all  sides,  and  being  con- 
structed of  stones  and  timbers  which  have  been 
carefully  hewed  and  prepared.  A good  Pahari 
house  for  the  ordinary  class  of  inhabitants  will  cost 
about  one  hundred  rupees.  In  the  plains,  the  cor- 
responding class  of  people  live  in  houses  of  clay, 
which  cost  twenty  or  thirty  rupees. 

10.  The  Temples,  or  places  of  religious  charac- 
ter, are  of  various  orders  of  architecture.  Most 
commonly,  they  are  of  one  rather  low  story  in 
height,  constructed  of  the  same  materials  as  ordi- 
nary houses,  but  having  their  roofs  modelled  more 
like  the  Chinese  roofs,  or  with  a slightly  curved 
inclination  from  the  cone  to  the  eve.  Often  these 
temples  are  made  entirely  of  wood.  Sometimes  a 
part  of  the  building  is  of  open  structure,  showing 
at  one  view  all  the  idols  and  their  ornaments.  In 
other  instances,  there  is  no  opening  of  any  kind, 
except  one  small  door.  Some  of  the  temples  are 
more  lofty  than  these,  and  have  a veranda  on  all 
sides,  at  about  two-thirds  of  their  height,  which, 
as  it  is  often  enclosed,  gives  them  a singular  ap- 
pearance. Some  few  consist  of  little  more  than  a 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


195 


platform  of  stone,  and  four  posts,  or  rude  pillars, 
which  support  the  roof.  Some  have  a kind  of  low 
circular  tower,  rising  above  one  end. 

Their  sites  are  often  worthy  of  attention.  They 
are  seen  from  a great  distance,  on  the  top  of  some 
peak,  or  at  the  extremity  of  some  ridge,  standing 
solitary.  Others  break  suddenly  on  the  view  of  a 
traveller,  as  he  passes  through  some  forest,  stand- 
ing in  its  most  dense  recesses,  and  surrounded  and 
overshadowed  by  lofty  trees.  Near  the  villages, 
they  stand  generally  alone,  a space  being  reserved 
between  them  and  the  dwellings  of  the  people. 
They  all  seem  adapted  to  exert  a cheerless  influ- 
ence on  the  minds  of  men,  an  influence  quite  in 
accordance  with  the  spirit  of  the  Hindu  system. 
Yet  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  their  situation 
and  appearance  are  not  destitute  of  impressiveness. 
The  idols  in  these  temples  are  rude  sculptures  of 
wood  and  stone,  and  are  most  commonly  devoted 
to  the  goddess  Kali,  though  the  trident  of  Siva  is 
sometimes  seen  over  their  most  holy  place.  To 
the  former,  goats  are  frequently  sacrificed.  For- 
merly, it  appears  from  uncontradicted  testimony, 
human  victims  were  offered  at  her  bloody  shrine. 
There  is  a mountain,  very  distinctly  seen  from 
Simla,  called  Shalt , on  whose  summits  in  former 
days  there  was  a famous  temple  to  this  goddess. 
It  is  commonly  believed  that  human  beings  were 
killed  for  sacrifices  at  that  temple;  but  no  instance 
has  occurred  since  1809.  Since  these  regions  have 
come  under  English  control,  this  practice,  as  well 
as  that  of  infanticide,  in  a great  degree,  has  been 
abolished.  A person  cannot  but  wonder  that  it 
should  ever  have  existed  among  a people  so  mild, 
and  apparently  kind-hearted  as  these  Paharis  are. 
But  the  depraved  heart  of  man,  when  unchanged 


196 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


and  unrestrained  by  Divine  influence,  is  susceptible 
of  entertaining  and  of  perpetrating  any  evil,  how- 
ever heinous  in  itself,  or  however  horrible  in  its 
consequences. 

At  some  temples,  incense  is  offered  in  a rude 
earthen  censer.  In  ascending  a mountain,  one 
morning,  with  a Christian  friend,  we  were  much 
struck  at  seeing  the  ceremony  performed.  The 
person  officiating  was  kneeling  a short  distance 
from  the  idol.  In  one  hand  he  held  a censer,  with 
the  incense  burning,  which  he  waved  backwards 
and  forwards,  while  with  the  other  hand  he  was 
ringing  a little  bell.  It  was  a melancholy  sight  to 
see  that  kind  of  worship  thus  paid  to  a piece  of 
wood,  which,  in  our  associations,  is  hallowed  with 
the  solemn  temple  of  the  Jews  in  honour  of  the 
only  living  and  true  God.  I never  saw  any  in- 
stance of  the  kind  before;  and  my  companion  said 
it  was  equally  new  to  him,  although  he  had  been 
fourteen  years  in  various  parts  of  India. 

It  is  very  common,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
these  hill  temples,  to  see  a great  number  of  rags 
sticking  on  the  bushes  and  low  trees  around. 
They  are  of  every  colour  and  texture,  and  are 
usually  in  the  shape  of  narrow  and  rather  long 
strips.  They  seem  to  have  been  torn  off  from  the 
clothes  commonly  worn  by  the  people,  and  are 
said  to  be  intended  as  pledges  by  worshippers, 
that  they  will  fulfil  the  vows  which  they  make. 
This  custom  seems  to  be  quite  peculiar  to  these 
hills  ; at  least  I have  not  heard  of  any  similar  usage 
elsewhere. 

11.  The  Religion  of  these  people,  as  may  be 
inferred  from  what  has  been  said  about  their  tem- 
ples, is  exclusively  the  Hindu.  There  are  no 
Mussulmans,  and  scarcely  any  Sikhs  among  them. 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


197 


They  seem  to  be  chiefly  of  one  caste  of  Hindus; 
or  perhaps  it  would  be  more  correct  to  say,  that 
they  do  not  pay  much  regard  to  the  distinction  of 
caste;  so  that  a person  does  not  see,  as  in  the 
plains,  half  a dozen  of  fire-places,  to  cook  the  din- 
ners of  half  a dozen  of  people.  There  are  but 
few  brahmans  among  them,  nearly  all  the  people 
belonging  to  the  class  whose  distinct  duty,  accord- 
ing to  Hindu  notions,  is  to  cultivate  the  soil. 

12.  The  Language  seems  to  be  principally  Hin- 
du!. Of  the  very  few  that  I met  with  who  could 
read,  all  read  the  Hindu!  in  the  Devnagar!  charac- 
ter. An  English  gentleman,  who  is  an  excellent 
Hindustan!  scholar,  informed  me,  that  he  could 
scarcely  make  himself  understood  by  the  Paharis, 
while  a friend  of  his,  who  is  well  acquainted  with 
the  Hindu!,  got  along  much  better  in  his  inter- 
course with  them.  Yet  their  mode  of  pronuncia- 
tion is  so  very  singular,  that  few  Europeans  can 
understand  them.  There  are  but  very  few  books 
of  any  description  among  ihem;  and  perhaps  not 

I one  person  in  every  thousand  is  able  to  read  and 
write.  I never  heard  of  any  school  of  any  sort 
among  them,  excepting  one  or  two  established  and 
entirely  supported  by  English  people.  Yet  there 
are  generally  a few  persons  in  each  small  state, 
who  are  able  to  read,  and  to  keep  the  few  records 
in  writing  that  the  administration  of  their  affairs 
requires  to  be  thus  preserved.  As  to  the  alphabet 
used  by  those  who  are  able  to  read,  I ought  per- 
haps to  add,  that  I have  been  told  that  there  are 
three  or  four  different  alphabets,  which  are  made 
use  of  in  different  places. 

13.  Character  of  the  People , &c.  In  the  man- 
ners of  the  hill  people  there  is  a frank  and  inde- 
pendent bearing,  which  is  much  more  pleasing 


198 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


than  the  sycophancy  and  servility  towards  supe- 
riors so  common  throughout  India.  They  seem 
to  be  very  ingenuous,  or  rather  unsophisticated,  in 
their  mental  operations.  They  might  be  charac- 
terized as  a simple-minded  people,  who  are  little 
encumbered  with  artificial  distinctions  of  wealth 
and  rank.  Their  chiefs  have  commonly  but  little 
power;  their  subjects,  territories,  and  resources, 
being  all,  for  the  most  part,  very  limited.  Hence, 
there  is  among  them  the  absence  both  of  the  polish 
of  address,  and  of  the  specious  but  deceitful  inge- 
nuity of  mind,  which  are  found  among  the  subjects 
of  more  powerful  and  wealthy  native  rulers.  This 
absence  of  artificial  usages  may  be  partly  owing, 
also,  to  the  fact,  that  there  are  few  persons  among 
them  of  overgrown  wealth.  On  the  other  hand, 
there  are  but  few  among  these  Paharis  who  are 
absolutely  poor,  or  compelled  to  beg  for  their  sub- 
sistence, the  people  being  commonly  in  moderate, 
but  comfortable  circumstances.  In  their  personal 
habits  and  dress  they  are  offensively  dirty.  When 
an  article  of  clothing  is  put  on,  it  seems  to  be 
allowed  to  stay  on  until  it  wears  off.  The  girls 
are  betrothed  at  an  early  age,  and  their  hair,  it  is 
said,  is  then  plaited,  and  remains  undressed  (it  is 
further  added)  ever  afterwards. 

As  to  morals,  they  have  a much  greater  regard 
to  truth  and  uprightness  in  dealing,  than  is  shown 
by  the  people  of  the  Plains.  Much  greater  con- 
fidence can  be  reposed  in  their  word,  and  in  their 
honesty.  But  they  are  spoken  of  as  much  addicted 
to  licentiousness;  yet  the  female  sex  does  not  ap- 
pear to  be  so  degraded  as  in  the  Plains.  At  any 
rate,  they  are  not  so  much  secluded,  which  is  some 
proof  of  their  being  held  in  higher  estimation  and 
of  their  enjoying  greater  confidence.  In  one  or 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


199 


two  sections  of  the  Hills,  it  is  said  that  polyandry 
is  common.  A Christian  friend  informed  me,  that 
he  had  seen  one  family,  where  there  were  only 
two  women.  One  was  the  aged  mother,  the  other 
was  the  wife  of  ten  men! 

In  their  disposition  or  temper  there  seems  to  be 
a great  deal  of  kindness  of  feeling,  prompting  them 
to  take  aji  interest  in  the  sufferings  of  others,  and 
to  render  assistance  to  others  when  it  is  not  too 
inconvenient  to  do  so — a remark  which  admits  but 
a very  limited  application  to  Hindus  generally. 
These  Hill  people  seem  to  be  patient,  contented, 
easily  satisfied,  and  greatly  attached,  (as  all  moun- 
tain tribes  are,)  to  their  own  country.  Consider- 
ing their  character  and  circumstances,  1 am  quite 
disposed  to  adopt  the  opinion  that  there  is  a greater 
probability  of  their  conversion  to  Christianity,  if 
suitable  means  were  employed,  than  there  is  in  re- 
gard to  any  other  people  in  India,  so  far  as  my 
information  extends.  A missionary,  who  would 
go  among  them  in  a kind  and  quiet  manner,  en- 
deavour to  promote  their  temporal  comfort,  as  well 
as  their  spiritual  welfare,  and  exemplify  before 
them  the  peaceful  and  pure  spirit  of  the  gospel, 
might  hope,  if  favoured  with  the  Divine  blessing, 
to  secure  their  warm  affection  for  himself  person- 
ally, and  to  see  many  of  them  embracing  the  gos- 
pel of  the  grace  of  God. 

There  are  no  difficulties  or  obstacles  to  hinder 
immediate  Christian  effort  for  the  conversion  of 
this  people,  excepting  such  difficulties  as  will  con- 
tinue to  exist,  so  far  as  the  people  are  concerned, 
until  the  gospel  itself  removes  them  by  its  holy 
influence.  Under  the  existing  authorities  of  the 
country,  and  among  so  peaceful  a people,  every 
judicious  and  prudent  missionary  would  enjoy  pro- 


200 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


tection  and  peace;  while  the  climate  and  its  incon- 
veniences will  ever  remain,  of  course,  in  a great 
degree  unchanged.  It  was  remarked  previously, 
however,  that  the  climate  and  the  country  are  un- 
doubtedly more  favourable  to  the  health  of  Euro- 
peans and  Americans  than  the  greater  part  of  India 
and  of  south-eastern  Asia. 

The  first  establishment  of  a mission  family  might 
be  made  at  Sabathu,  which  is  convenient  to  the 
Plains,  has  the  advantage  of  a resident  medical  offi- 
cer, of  post  office  communications,  &c.  At  that 
place  a comfortable  house  could  be  either  pur- 
chased or  rented,  at  a low  rate.  It  would  admit 
of  convenient  intercourse  with  the  mission  station 
at  Lodiana,  and  from  this  latter  place  the  books 
and  tracts,  which  will  be  requisite  in  the  prosecu- 
tion of  missionary  labours,  might  be  easily  obtain- 
ed, and  it  would  afford  a comfortable  retreat  for 
any  of  the  missionaries  from  the  Plains,  when 
health  might  become  impaired.  The  distance  be- 
tween Lodiana  and  Sabathu  is  about  one  hundred 
miles. 

In  regard  to  the  mountainous  and  isolated  valley 
of  Kanaur,  referred  to  in  the  first  paragraph  of  the 
foregoing  notes,  the  following  memoranda  will  be 
considered  valuable  by  the  reader;  they  were 
taken  from  a work,  then  printed  but  not  published, 
which  has  been  lately  reprinted  and  published  in 
London.  Captain  Gerard,  from  whose  book  these 
notices  were  taken  by  permission,  had  made 
several  tours  to  the  valley,  and  had  spent  some- 
time in  it. 

Kunaiir,  (Koonawur,)  a part  of  the  Protected 
Hill  States,  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Sutlej  river, 
from  Lat.  31°  15'  to  32°  4',  and  from  Long.  77° 
50'  to  78°  50'.  It  runs  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  the 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA. 


201 


habitable  part  seldom  exceeding  eight  miles  in 
breadth.  It  is  secluded,  rugged,  mountainous,  and 
almost  entirely  surrounded  by  mountains  covered 
with  snow.  On  the  East  it  is  separated  from 
Chinese  Tartary  by  a lofty  ridge,  through  which 
are  several  passes  at  high  elevations. 

Population. — There  are  seven  large  divisions, 
subdivided  into  twenty  smaller,  containing  alto- 
gether rather  less  than  ten  thousand  inhabitants. 
Rampur , the  chief  town  of  Basehar,  the  state  or 
chiefdom  of  which  Kunaur  forms  a part,  contains 
one  hundred  and  ten  families.  In  Kunaur,  Ma- 
rang  contains  eighty-seven  families,  and  Riclang, 
seventy-five.  These  are  among  the  most  popu- 
lous places  in  Basehar.  The  villages  are  situated 
from  seven  to  twelve  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 

Climate. — This  depends  upon  the  elevation,  and 
the  location,  of  the  particular  place.  Rampur  is 
so  hot,  during  a good  part  of  the  year,  as  to  be 
almost  uninhabitable  by  Europeans.  Other  places 
are  so  cold,  as  to  be  unhabitable  by  any  human 
beings.  Between  these  extremes  there  is  a great 
variety  of  temperature. 

Valleys. — The  valleys  of  the  Sutlej,  of  the 
Baspa,  of  the  Pabar,  and  of  one  or  two  other 
small  streams,  are  the  only  parts  which  admit  of 
much  cultivation.  Arable  spaces  occasionally  are 
met,  varying  from  one  hundred  yards  to  half  a mile 
in  width. 

Rivers. — The  Sutlej  is  more  like  a torrent  than 
a large  river,  descending  sometimes  one  hundred 
or  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  per  mile.  The  water 
looks  turbid,  from  the  particles  of  sand,  or  of  the 
rocks,  worn  off  by  attrition,  which  are  held  sus- 
pended in  the  stream.  It  runs  two  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  in  the  snowy  mountains,  one  hun- 
18 


202 


THE  HILL  TRIBES. 


dred  more  in  the  hills,  or  lower  range  of  moun- 
tains, and  one  hundred  and  thirty  more  in  the 
plains,  to  its  junction  with  the  Bias.  It  breadth 
varies  greatly;  its  depth  in  the  hills  can  seldom  be 
ascertained,  owing  to  the  rapidity  of  the  current, 
which  is  often  fearfully  great. 

The  Sutlej  receives  several  mountain-streams  as 
tributaries,  of  which  the  chief  is  the  Spit'i,  which 
is  nearly  one  hundred  miles  in  length.  The  others 
vary  in  length  from  ten  to  forty-five  miles.  They 
are  all  much  swollen  by  the  rains,  and  by  the 
melting  of  the  snow.  These  rivers  and  streams 
are  passed  by  sangos,  or  wooden  bridges,  by 
j hulas,  or  rope  bridges,  and  by  sagams,  or  twig 
bridges.  The  second  is  made  of  several  cables 
stretched  from  bank  to  bank,  from  which  a noose 
is  suspended,  in  which  the  passenger  places  him- 
self, and  he  is  then  drawn  over  by  cords  attached 
to  the  noose.  The  third  kind  of  bridge  is  formed 
of  twigs  twisted,  ropes,  &c. 

Passes. — There  are  various  passes,  over  which 
travellers  cross  the  mountains.  Of  these,  six  lead 
to  Chinese  Tartary,  and  several  into  Thibet. 

Productions,  $’C.  — Barley,  buckwheat,  and 
wheat,  are  common.  The  potato  has  been  intro- 
duced, and  grows  well.  Among  the  trees  are  six 
kinds  of  pine,  oak,  birch,  maple.  Wild  fruits  are 
abundant,  as  black  and  red  currants,  gooseberries, 
strawberries,  neoza,*  pears,  apricots,  &c.  Many 
varieties  of  grapes  flourish  very  well  in  good  situa- 
tions. Eighteen  kinds  are  mentioned,  which  seem 
almost  incredibly  large.  They  sell  at  sixty  or 
seventy  pounds  to  the  rupee.  Apples  are  but 

* The  neoza  is  a small,  rather  long,  partly  conical,  fruit, 
tasting  not  unlike  the  filbert  or  hazel-nut,  and  produced  by 
a species  of  the  pine. 


LODIANA  TO  SIMLA.  203 

indifferent — could  they  not  be  grafted?  Peaches  do 
not  ripen  well. 

The  Animals  are  cows,  sheep,  goats,  asses, 
small  horses,  dogs,  &c.  There  are  some  wild 
bears,  and  some  species  of  tiger-cat,  or  panther. 
Among  the  birds  are  pheasants,  hawks,  eagles, 
crows,  pigeons,  &c.  Fish  are  not  abundant.  There 
are  some  snakes,  frogs,  flies,  fleas,  &c.  The  com- 
mon bee  is  every  where  met  with,  and  there  is 
plenty  of  fine  honey,  particularly  in  the  autumn. 

The  people  are  dark-complexioned,  and  muscu- 
lar. Their  stature  is  from  five  feet  four  inches  to 
five  feet  nine.  They  are  frank,  active,  hospitable, 
and  highly  honourable,  reverencing  the  truth,  <fcc. 

Their  Religion  is  Hinduism,  but  with  less  re- 
gard for  the  subdivisions  of  caste  than  the  people  of 
the  plains  feel.  They  erect  temples  to  the  Devtas, 
or  gods,  in  their  villages,  and  piles  of  stones  on 
the  summits  of  the  hills.  Kail  is  chiefly  worship- 
ed. Human  sacrifices  were  offered  before  the 
British  became  rulers;  and  female  infanticide  was 
common.  Their  language  is  a dialect  of  the  Hin- 
du!. Few  persons  can  read  or  write.  The  dia- 
lect called  Milchan  is  said  to  be  the  most  common. 

Diseases  are  few,  as  the  climate  is  salubrious 
and  bracing.  As  there  are  no  periodical  rains  in 
Kunaur,  there  are  few  vapours,  <fcc.  The  swelled 
throat,  or  goitre,  is  frequently  met  with;  but  it  is 
not  supposed  to  be  owing  to  their  drinking  snow- 
water; because  many  who  drink  nothing  else  for 
months  are  not  troubled  with  it. 


204 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 

Meeting  with  Messrs.  Wilson  and  Newton — English  school 
at  Lodiana — Mission  station  at  Sabathu — Other  fields  of 
labour — Station  at  Lodiana — Leave  Lodiana — Meeting 
at  Calcuta  with  the  third  company  of  Missionaries — 
Reach  New  York. 

Leaving  Simla  about  the  17th  of  November,  I pro- 
ceeded to  join  my  missionary  friends,  the  Wilsons 
and  Newtons,  now  on  the  land-part  of  their  jour- 
ney to  Lodiana,  and  on  the  23d  of  that  month  we 
had  the  high  gratification  of  meeting  at  a small  na- 
tive village  about  thirty  miles  north-west  of  Delhi. 
Years  had  passed  since  we  were  students  together 
at  the  Allegheny  Seminary,  and  in  this  period 
changes  of  the  deepest  interest  had  taken  place; 
the  broad  ocean  had  been  crossed,  the  hand  of 
death  had  taken  away  more  than  one  whom  we  all 
loved,  and  who  had  expected  to  be  present  at  this 
meeting,  and  we  were  now  truly  strangers  in  a 
strange  country.  How  thankful  and  joyful  that  we 
were  again  together!  With  the  warmest  gratitude 
did  we  at  once  unite  in  offering  fervent  praise  to 
God,  “for  all  the  way  by  which  he  had  led  us 
along.”  Our  meeting  was  a time  of  the  most  ten- 
der and  refreshing  communion,  such  as  language 
can  but  feebly  describe. 

After  reaching  Lodiana,  we  had  the  satisfac- 
tion of  spending  about  six  weeks  together.  Dur- 
ing this  time  the  history  of  our  mission  in  all  its 
details  was  brought  under  review,  and  its  prospects 
carefully  examined.  Various  plans  of  usefulness 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


205 


were  considered,  and  our  united  and  fervent  prayers 
were  often  made  that  the  blessing  of  the  great 
Head  of  the  Church  might  crown  our  feeble  under- 
takings. On  a review  of  all  our  affairs,  we  could 
notbut  “ thank  God,  and  take  courage.” — I may 
here  insert  some  extracts  from  a letter,  written  a 
month  or  two  afterwards,  but  referring  to  the  state 
of  things  in  January,  1836. 

The  English  School.  It  was  at  first  establish- 
ed under  the  auspices  and  generous  support  of 
Captain  C.  M.  Wade,  the  political  agent  at  Lodi- 
ana;  and,  for  some  months  before  I reached  that 
place  in  November  1834,  it  was  taught  by  Sha- 
hamat  Mi,  a native  young  man,  of  considerable 
promise,  who  had  acquired  some  knowledge  of 
our  language  at  the  governmental  college,  or  school, 
at  Delhi. 

One  of  the  first  subjects  that  required  our  con- 
sideration after  we  arrived  at  Lodiana  was  that  of 
our  connection  with  this  school.  Captain  Wade 
was  its  founder,  and  it  has  always  been  chiefly 
owing  to  his  deep  interest  in  its  success,  and  to 
his  generous  patronage,  that  it  has  thus  far  pros- 
pered so  well.  He  wished,  however,  to  sustain 
towards  it  a somewhat  different,  though  not  less 
friendly  relationship.  And  between  making  another 
arrangement,  and  making  it  over  entirely  to  us, 
we,  of  course,  could  not  feel  as  indifferent  specta- 
tors; especially  as  the  other  arrangement  would 
have  involved  the  giving  up  of  all  religious  books 
and  instructions  in  the  school,  and,  consequently, 
of  our  connection  with  it.  After  free  and  repeated 
conversations  with  Captain  Wade  on  the  subject, 
marked  on  his  part  by  a most  kind  and  considerate, 
as  well  as  liberal  disposition,  it  seemed  best  that 
the  school  should  be  altogether  made  over  to  our 


206 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YOBK. 


mission.  Capt.  W.  will,  however,  continue  to 
manifest  an  entirely  cordial  interest  in  its  welfare, 
and  is  still  the  patron  of  the  school.  It  now  contains 
about  forty-five  boys  and  young  men.  This  num- 
ber is  as  large  as  could  be  expected,  when  it  is 
considered  that  but  few,  if  any,  of  the  natives  of 
this  country  are  yet  influenced  by  a desire  of 
knowledge  from  disinterested  motives ; and  that  the 
number  of  situations  is  but  limited  in  which  a 
knowledge  of  our  language  would  be  advantageous 
in  a pecuniary  point  of  view.  Indeed,  it  may  be 
said  of  most  places  remote  from  Calcutta,  that  the 
most  weighty  motive  to  a native’s  mind  for  seek- 
ing a knowledge  of  our  language  is  the  hope  of 
pleasing  his  European  superiors,  and  of  deriving 
some  sort  of  advantage  from  their  favour.  This  is 
a good  deal  the  case  at  Lodiana;  though  I am  glad 
to  think  that  some  of  the  boys  are  influenced  by 
higher  and  better  motives.  But,  whatever  may  be 
the  character  of  the  motives  which  influence  any 
of  the  natives  in  their  efforts  to  become  acquainted 
with  our  language,  it  matters  little  to  us,  as  to  our 
duly.  To  us  it  is  simply  a question  between  en- 
deavouring to  avail  ourselves  of  their  wish  to  know 
our  language  by  consenting  to  teach  them,  and 
w7atching  opportunities  to  make  them  acquainted 
with  useful  and  Christian  knowledge,  and  neglect- 
ing to  do  so.  If  we  choose  the  latter  plan,  we  lose 
many  and  precious  opportunities,  direct  and  indi- 
rect, of  exerting  useful  influences,  of  communicating 
important  knowledge,  of  correcting  evil  habits,  of 
witnessing  a Christian  example;  and  we  permit  a 
most  interesting  class  of  the  community  to  acquire 
that  knowledge  of  our  language  which  will  make 
them  by  far  the  most  influential  in  their  genera- 
tion, without  any,  or  with  but  imperfect  acquaint- 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


207 


ance  with  the  truths  of  our  religion.  The  desire 
to  know  our  language  is  awakened  in  their  minds; 
it  will  be  gratified ; those  who  learn  our  books  will 
be  looked  up  to  by  all  the  people;  they  will  oc- 
cupy many  places  of  important  influence  among 
their  countrymen;  but  whether  they  will  exert  an 
influence  favourable  to  Christianity,  or  not,  is  a 
different  and  most  important  matter.  Mere  gene- 
ral knowledge  will  never  make  them  sincere  Chris- 
tians ; though  it  may,  and  most  probably  will 
make  them  infidels  from  the  religious  systems  of 
their  fathers.  We  have  yet  to  learn  whether  in- 
fidelity in  India  is  any  better  than  infidelity  in 
America  or  Europe.* 

Another  subject,  that  has  received  a good  many 
of  our  thoughts,  is  the  distribution  of  our  number; 
having  a reference  as  well  to  those  who  are  to 
come  as  to  those  now  here.  Lodiana  seems  to 
need  the  services  of  two  missionaries,  one  printer, 
and  one  schoolmaster.  Ambala,  about  seventy 
miles  on  this  side,  is  as  large  a town,  or  perhaps 
larger;  but,  at  present,  it  does  not  appear  to  be 

* This  English  school  has  not  ceased  to  be  an  object  of 
prominent  interest.  It  is  now  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  Rev.  W.  S.  Rogers.  A new  and  more  eligible 
building  has  been  erected  for  its  use;  the  number  of  pu- 
pils continues  about  the  same.  Though  subject  to  con- 
siderable, changes,  partly  from  the  parents’  early  with- 
drawing their  sons  to  occupy  stations  of  business,  thereby 
greatly  hindering  the  highest  usefulness  of  the  school; 
yet  it  cannot  be  doubted  that  a good  influence  has  been 
already  exerted  through  its  agency.  And  I would  ask 
the  reader’s  attention  to  its  importance,  from  its  position 
in  reference  to  surrounding  countries,  and  from  the  dif- 
ferent languages  spoken  by  its  pupils,  as  a means,  if  the 
blessing  of  God  be  granted,  of  diffusing  far  and  near  the 
knowledge  of  the  way  of  life. 


208 


LODI  ANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


advisable  to  attempt  forming  a branch  of  our  mission 
there.  Ferozpur,  about  seventy  miles  down  the 
Sutlej  from  Lodiana,  is  a place  of  ten  or  twelve 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  of  great  prospective  im- 
portance. Y et  it  is  not  quite  prepared,  probably, 
for  becoming  the  station  of  a mission  family.  Sa- 
bathu,  one  hundred  miles  from  Lodiana,  in  the 
Protected  Hill  States,  is  a very  good  place  at  which 
to  have  one  missionary  and  one  schoolmaster  sta- 
tioned. These  are  the  places  now  under  direct 
British  control.  There  are  many  large  towns  be- 
longing to  native  Chiefs,  on  both  sides  of  the  Sut- 
lej, within  one  hundred  miles,  and  many  within 
fifty  miles  of  Lodiana.  Within  the  latter  distance 
is  Patiala,  said  to  contain  sixty  or  seventy  thousand 
inhabitants,  southward  from  Lodiana;  Sirhind, 
containing  probably  fifteen  thousand,  eastward,  or 
south-eastward,  from  Lodiana,  on  the  road  to  Am- 
bala:  Jhalandar,  forty  thousand,  thirty  miles;  and 
Paghwarah,  fifteen  thousand,  twenty  miles.  Both 
of  these  are  on  the  other  side  of  the  Sutlej,  on  the 
road  to  Amritsir  and  Labor.  Besides  these  large 
towns,  there  are  a good  many  of  some  thousand 
people,  and  a great  many  of  some  hundred  inhabi- 
tants. But  in  regard  to  towns  which  are  entirely 
under  native  rule,  it  may  be  regarded  in  general  as 
scarcely  advisable  for  a mission  family  to  settle  at 
them  before  a knowledge  of  the  language  is  attain- 
ed ; and  perhaps  even  then  it  will  be  better  to 
occupy  first  those  large  towns  and  important  places 
which  are  under  British  rule  exclusively.  There 
will  be  less  probability  of  meeting  with  any  inter- 
ruption in  one’s  labours.  It  is  quite  practicable  to 
visit  towns  under  native  rule ; and  perhaps  cir- 
cumstances might  occur  which  would  make  it 
appear  advisable  to  reside  at  them.  This  would 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK.  209 

be  the  case,  were  any  of  their  rulers  to  become 
Christians.  But,  at  present,  it  might  be  attended 
with  uncertainty  as  to  being  free  from  trouble,  or 
rather,  as  to  obtaining  the  consent  of  the  Chiefs. 
At  any  rate,  it  would  be  attended  with  much  delay 
in  regard  to  getting  suitable  houses  prepared,  so 
that  it  does  not  seem  expedient  that  any  of  our 
Ifcethren  should  attempt  at  once  to  take  up  a per- 
manent residence  at  a native  town. 

Besides,  great  changes  may  be  anticipated,  and 
perhaps  troublous  times,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Sutlej  ; for  the  health  of  the  chief  ruler,  Ranjit 
Singh,  is  in  a very  precarious  condition.  Though 
he  may  live  for  years,  yet  he  might  die  any  night. 
It  seems  hardly  proper  to  think  of  forming  any 
station  on  that  side  of  the  Sutlej  until  there  is  a 
better  prospect  of  quietness  and  of  a settled  govern- 
ment. 

We  came  very  satisfactorily  to  the  conclusion 
that  we  should  commence  a mission  in  the  Hill 
States  as  soon  as  practicable.  We  have  felt  our- 
selves justifiable  in  making  preparation  for  a mis- 
sion family  to  reside  there,  and  have  purchased  a 
stone  house  at  Sabathu  for  that  purpose.  This 
we  thought  it  would  be  expedient  to  do,  because 
it  was  offered  at  a low  price,  and  because  the  op- 
portunity might  be  lost,  if  neglected 

You  will  perceive  that  Lodiana  and  Sabathu  do 
not  afford  sufficient  work  to  employ  all  our  breth- 
ren permanently.  Shall  they  all  go  to  those  places 
until  they  learn  the  language,  and  then  go  wherever 
the  Lord  directs?  Or  would  it  be  advisable  for  some 
of  them  to  stay  at  Farrukhabad,  or  at  some  other 
place  in  the  Doab,  or  level  country,  between  the 
Ganges  and  the  Jumna?  The  latter  is  a region  of 
country  teeming  with  large  towns  and  multitudes 


210 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


of  people,  for  whose  souls  no  man  seems  to  care. 
It  affords  a greater  prospect  of  concentrated  exer- 
tions than  do  the  regions  to  the  northwest.  It  is 
entirely  under  British  rule.  It  is  easy  of  access 
by  water  from  Calcutta,  and  would  afford  a “ half- 
way house”  to  the  missionary  brethren  going  on 
to  the  northwest.  We  want  some  missionary  fami- 
lies in  Calcutta,  where  our  missionaries  wouM 
land  at  first ; who  would  find  as  much  work  to  do 
as  they  could  accomplish;  who  would  meet  with 
a most  cordial  reception  from  all  the  Calcutta 
brethren;  and  who  could  relieve  these  brethren 
from  commissions  and  cares  which  even  now  must 
be  troublesome,  though  they  are  too  kind  to  admit 
that  they  are  so,  but  which,  in  future  times,  will 
be  too  numerous  for  them  to  think  of  attending  to, 
when  we  have  some  fifty  or  a hundred  mission- 
aries in  the  upper  regions  of  India.  And  then 
we  want  many  American  missionaries  throughout 
Upper  India;  of  whom  some  could  be  stationed 
at  Furrukhabad,  to  receive  and  forward  over  land 
the  brethren,  and  their  commissions,  to  the  remoter 
stations.  There  is  a large  unoccupied  field  in  the 
Doab.  Would  it  be  desirable  for  two  of  our  breth- 
ren to  stay  somewhere  in  it?  If  it  is  not  so  for 
them,  I trust  you  will  soon  be  able  to  send  others 
to  take  possession  of  that  fertile  and  populous 
country. 

If  they  should  go  on  to  Lodiana,  they  might,  or 
future  missionaries  might,  prepare  themselves  for 
going  either  to  Cashmere,  or  to  Afghanistan,  by 
learning  the  language  of  those  countries,  from  the 
natives,  of  whom  there  are  many  at  Lodiana. 

During  the  spring  of  1834,  through  the  kind 
attention  of  Capt.  Wade,  a portion  of  ground  was 
allotted  to  our  mission,  which  is  in  many  respects 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YOKE. 


211 


very  eligible,  being  about  a quarter  of  a mile  east  of 
the  city,  and  containing  a tract  of  rather  low  ground, 
suitable  for  a garden;  as  well  as  some  high  ground, 
suitable,  and  sufficiently  large,  for  two  or  three 
houses.  You  would  have  thought  the  higher  point 
of  it  a dreary,  barren  spot,  if  you  could  have  seen 
it  three  or  four  months  ago.  It  was  just  like  the 
sandy-looking  plains  east  and  south  of  it.  Yet  it 
has  always  been  cultivated;  and  we  may  hope  that 
it  will  hereafter  possess  a peculiar  interest,  as  the 
seat  of  extensive  moral  influence,  and  as  the  home 
of  two  or  three  families  of  the  Lord’s  beloved 
people.  It  is  intended  that  Lodiana  shall  become 
a walled  town,  and  measures  are  in  progress  which 
seem  to  promise  that  the  native  city  shall  extend 
eastward  quite  to  our  ground.  According  to  the 
plan  of  the  city,  a single  street  separates  our  little 
tract  from  the  wall  of  the  great  city  “that  is  to  be.” 
The  time  had  now  come  when  I should  direct 
my  way  homewards.  After  obtaining  the  best 
medical  advice,  and  after  much  and  anxious  con- 
sideration, and  many  free  conferences  w'ith  my 
missionary  companions,  it  was  agreed  by  us  all 
that  a return  to  the  United  States  was  decidedly 
advisable,  as  the  only  means  of  recovering  from 
the  combined  influence  of  the  climate  and  of 
chronic  disease.  Deeply  as  I regretted  to  leave 
a post  of  so  much  importance,  and  a mission  whose 
brief  history  had  been  so  fraught  with  deeply  pain- 
ful, but  also  with  most  encouraging  interest,  and 
sorrowful  as  we  all  were  at  the  necessity  of  part- 
ing, the  path  of  duly  appeared  plain,  and  we 
acquiesced  in  what  we  believed  to  be  the  will  of 
God.  For  myself,  I consented  the  more  readily 
to  the  measure,  as  I hoped  to  be  so  much  benefitted 
by  the  voyage,  and  by  spending  a year  or  two  in 


212 


LODI  AN  A TO  NEW  YORK. 


a colder  climate,  as  to  return  to  the  sphere  of  duty 
I was  now  about  to  leave — a hope  I have  since 
been  constrained  to  abandon. 

Arrangements  were  soon  made  for  a journey  to 
Calcutta  by  dak,  and  on  the  21st  of  January,  I 
bade  farewell  to  many  kind  English  friends  at  Lo- 
diana,  to  the  scholars  of  the  High  School,  and  to 
my  missionary  brethren — we  commended  each 
other  to  God,  and  to  the  word  of  his  grace,  and 
then  parted,  they  to  pursue  their  missionary  labours, 
and  I to  make  another  long  and  solitary  journey.  I 
reached  Calcutta  on  the  11th  of  February,  after 
four  or  live  days’  delay  on  the  road. 

I was  anxious  to  proceed  on  the  voyage  without 
delay,  as  the  hot  season  was  now  drawing  nigh, 
but  I met  with  unexpected  and  trying  disappoint- 
ments about  getting  a passage  directly  to  the  United 
Slates,  and  was  at  length  obliged  to  decide  on  re- 
turning by  way  of  England.  This  delay,  how- 
ever, proved  the  means  of  my  having  a glad  meet- 
ing with  the  third  company  of  missionaries,  who 
arrived  on  the  2d  of  April,  in  the  Charles  Whar- 
ton, from  Philadelphia,  after  a safe  and  pleasant 
voyage.  This  party  consisted  of  the  Rev.  Messrs. 
J.  R.  Campbell,  and  J.  McEwen,  and  Messrs.  J. 
M.  Jamieson,  W.  S.  Rogers,  and  J.  Porter,  with 
their  wives.  The  three  last  mentioned  gentlemen 
had  completed  their  studies  at  college,  and  they 
have  since  been  ordained  as  ministers  of  the  gos- 
pel. We  all  regarded  it  as  a favourable  ordering 
of  providence,  that  I should  have  been  delayed 
until  they  arrived.  I was  able  to  be  of  use  to 
them  in  making  their  arrangements  for  proceeding 
up  the  country  ; and  it  was  highly  gratifying  to  see 
so  many  chosen  men  and  women  thus  far  on  their 
way  to  a scene  of  labour,  where,  two  years  before, 


A SKETCH  OF  THE  HISTORY,  ETC.  213 

every  thing  appeared  so  discouraging.  I left  India 
with  a lighter  heart,  after  spending  a few  days 
with  these  missionary  friends. 

Of  the  voyage  to  England,  and  thence  to  New 
York,  I need  not  give  an  extended  account.  Both 
were  unusually  long  and  severe,  but  we  were 
favoured  with  all  necessary  comfort.  After  stop- 
ping a week  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  our  ship 
arrived  at  London  about  the  end  of  September,  and 
embarking  at  Portsmouth  early  in  November,  I 
had  the  great  satisfaction,  on  the  28th  of  Decem- 
ber, of  stepping  on  the  shore  of  my  native  country, 
the  more  beloved  as  I had  seen  the  more  of  foreign 
lands. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A SKETCH  OF  THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  MISSIONS. 

Lodiana — Sabathu — Saharunpur — Allahabad — Futtehgurh 
— Presbyteries  formed — Summary  View. 

Here  my  account  might  end ; and  yet,  as  I venture 
to  hope  that  the  reader  will  desire  to  learn  the  fur- 
ther progress  of  the  mission,  I shall  add  some 
notices  of  the  station  at  Lodiana,  and  the  stations 
that  have  been  subsequently  occupied.  These  are 
Sabathu,  Saharunpur,  Futtehgurh,  and  Allahabad. 

At  Lodiana,  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Wilson  and  New- 
ton took  charge  of  the  English  school,  two  or 
three  common  schools,  a weekly  service  in  Eng- 
lish, and  a printing  press.  The  latter  had  been 
procured  at  Calcutta,  in  part  with  the  help  of  some 


214 


A SKETCH  OF  THE 


liberal  donations  from  our  kind  friends  at  Simla. 
After  Messrs.  W.  and  N.  had  made  further  pro- 
gress in  learning  the  native  language,  they  made 
several  tours  into  the  adjacent  country,  to  preach 
to  the  natives,  and  distribute  the  Scriptures,  and 
other  religious  books,  amongst  those  of  them  who 
could  read.  This  kind  of  service  is  performed  by 
the  missionaries  of  all  the  stations  to  a greater  or 
less  extent,  and  is  the  means  of  conveying  the 
knowledge  of  the  gospel  to  thousands  who  would 
not  otherwise  receive  it.  Two  dwelling-houses, 
a school-house,  and  a printing-office  were  erected. 

On  the  arrival  of  Messrs.  Rogers  and  Porter,  of 
the  third  company  of  missionaries,  it  was  thought 
advisable  that  one  of  the  newly  arrived  should  be 
associated  with  one  of  those  who  had  now  acquired 
some  experience  in  that  part  of  India,  and  accord- 
ingly, Mr.  Porter  took  up  his  abode  at  Lodiana, 
with  Mr.  Newton;  Mr.  Wilson  proceeding  with 
Mr.  Rogers  to  one  of  the  new  stations.  Soon 
afterwards,  a boarding-school  was  opened  for  or- 
phan children,  but  the  number  of  scholars  never 
exceeded  above  a dozen,  and  in  1840  they  were 
transferred  to  a similar  school  at  Saharunpur.  In 
the  beginning  of  1838,  Mr.  Rogers  came  down 
from  Sabathu  to  this  station,  and  took  charge  of 
the  High  School,  which  has  continued  under  his 
efficient  superintendence;  and  Mr.  R.  Morris,  a 
printer,  having  arrived  about  the  end  of  the  year, 
with  another  press,  this  department  of  labour  could 
now  be  superintended  to  much  better  advantage. 
Two  additional  dwelling-houses  were  built  in  1839, 
and  the  printing-office  was  much  enlarged.  In 
the  next  year  a neat  Church  was  erected  for  native 
Services,  the  first  Presbyterian,  and  the  first  Mis- 
sion Church  erected  in  that  part  of  India.  The 


HISTORY  OP  THE  MISSIONS. 


215 


missionaries  had  organized  themselves  into  a 
Church  in  1837,  and  they  have  since  had  the  great 
satisfaction  of  admitting  several  hopeful  native  con- 
verts as  members  of  the  visible  Church  of  Christ. 

One  of  the  letters  already  quoted  mentions  the 
selection  of  Sabathu,  in  the  Protected  Hill  States, 
as  a second  station.  The  Rev.  J.  Wilson,  and  the 
Rev.  W.  S.  Rogers,  were  the  first  missionaries, 
having  gone  there  in  the  beginning  of  1837.  After- 
wards it  was  considered  expedient  that  Mr.  Wilson 
should  go  down  to  Allahabad,  and  that  Mr.  Rogers 
should  reside  atLodiana,  and  they  were  succeeded 
by  the  Rev.  J.  M.  Jamieson,  the  missionary  now 
at  this  station,  his  wife’s  health  having  suffered  so 
severely  on  the  plains  as  to  make  it  necessary  to 
remove  to  the  hills.  The  Rev.  J.  H.  Morrison 
is  at  present  at  Sabathu  on  account  of  his  health, 
and  it  is  not  improbable  that  he  will  make  the  Hill 
States  the  place  of  his  future  labours. 

Schools  both  for  boys  and  girls,  have  been 
opened  at  Sabathu,  but  the  attendance  has  varied, 
owing  to  the  changes  among  the  native  soldiers, 
who,  with  their  families,  form  a large  part  of  the 
population  of  this  town;  the  general  prospects  of 
these  schools  have  not  been  very  encouraging. 
The  missionaries  have  made  frequent  tours  among 
the  Hill  tribes,  and  have  gone  down,  during  the 
cold  season,  to  the  plains,  for  the  purpose  of  mak- 
ing the  gospel  more  widely  known  among  the 
people.  Mr.  Jamieson  has  given  much  attention 
of  late  to  the  language  of  the  Thibetan  people,  a 
number  of  whom  find  their  way  across  the  snowy 
mountains.  The  readers  of  the  Missionary  Chron- 
icle will  have  observed  in  that  periodical,  frequent 
notices  of  these  Hill  tribes,  and  of  the  proceedings 
of  the  missionaries  among  them. 


216 


A SKETCH  OF  THE 


Saharunpur  was  made  a mission  station  at  the 
same  time  with  Sabathu.  It  had  been  brought  to 
our  notice  by  a gentleman  of  the  Civil  Service, 
then  stationed  at  Saharunpur,  who  gave  every  kind 
and  efficient  aid  to  our  missionaries,  in  their  settle- 
ment and  labours  at  that  place.  A dwelling-house, 
large  enough  for  two  families,  was  purchased  in 
1836,  of  which,  early  in  the  following  year,  the 
Rev.  Messrs.  J.  R.  Campbell  and  J.  M.  Jamieson 
took  possession.  On  Mr.  Jamieson’s  removal  to 
the  Hills,  Mr.  Campbell  was  left  alone  until  joined 
in  1839  by  the  Rev.  J.  Caldwell,  who  had  arrived, 
with  his  wife,  in  the  ship  Osage,  from  Philadel- 
phia, after  a comfortable  passage,  and  Mr.  J.  Craig, 
a teacher,  and  his  wife.  Besides  studying  the 
language,  and  making  daily  efforts  to  proclaim  the 
gospel  among  the  natives,  an  English  school  and 
a boarding-school  were  opened.  The  latter  has 
proved  a very  interesting  and  useful  institution, 
containing  about  twenty  scholars,  all  of  whom  are 
orphans  rescued  from  starvation.  A church  has 
been  organized,  containing,  in  1841,  twelve  mem- 
bers. 

Much  sickness  was  suffered  by  nearly  all  the 
missionaries  at  this  station,  before  it  was  discovered 
that  it  was  probably  owing  to  low,  marshy  ground 
in  the  vicinity,  which  was  not  sooner  perceived 
because  concealed  from  view  by  a dense  under- 
growth of  vegetation.  Mrs.  Campbell  was  brought 
very  low  by  fever,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Craig  also, 
while  it  pleased  God  to  take  unto  himself  Mrs. 
Caldwell,  who  died  on  the  8th  of  November, 
1839.  She  had  formerly  lived  at  Pittsburgh,  Pa., 
and  afterwards  at  Wheeling,  Va.,  and  was  re- 
garded with  warm  affection,  and  with  the  highest 
confidence,  by  those  who  knew  her  worth.  Few 


HISTORY  OF  THE  MISSIONS. 


217 


women  have  engaged  in  the  service  of  Christ, 
among  the  heathen,  who  appeared  better  fitted  for 
usefulness.  Her  early  removal  was  not  only  an 
overwhelming  loss  to  her  husband,  but  a most 
serious  calamity  to  the  mission.  How  often  are 
we  reminded  that  the  Lord’s  ways  are  not  as  our 
ways,  nor  his  thoughts  as  our  thoughts ! 

In  1840  the  missionaries  removed  to  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  city,  where  two  dwelling-houses 
have  been  built,  and  a school-house,  and  where 
they  enjoy  much  better  health.  During  this 
change,  the  English  school,  which  contained  about 
forty  boys,  was  suspended,  but  it  has  since  been 
re-opened  on  the  new  premises.  The  present 
labours  of  the  missionaries  are  abundant,  and  their 
prospects  highly  favourable. 

This  station  is  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
south-east  from  Lodiana,  towards  Calcutta,  and 
contains  perhaps  forty  thousand  inhabitants.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a populous  country,  and  is  within 
thirty  or  forty  miles  of  Hardwar,  where  the  Gan- 
ges issues  from  the  mountains,  a place  of  great 
resort  by  pilgrims,  so  that  the  missionaries  have 
the  opportunity  of  preaching  the  gospel  to  great 
multitudes  of  people.  Some  of  their  number  com- 
monly visit  Hardwar  for  this  purpose  during  the 
annual  fair,  when  myriads  of  people  come  from  all 
parts  of  India,  partly  to  bathe  in  the  Ganges,  and 
partly  for  purposes  of  traffic.  The  number  of 
these  pilgrims  and  visiters  is  seldom  less  than  two 
hundred  thousand,  and  every  fourteenth  year  the 
multitudes  are  greatly  increased. 

Allahabad,  at  the  junction  of  the  Ganges  and 
Jumna,  was  first  occupied  in  1836,  by  the  Rev. 
J.  McEwen,  who  was  led  by  providential  circum- 
stances, after  having  proceeded  as  far  as  Cawn- 
19 


218 


A SKETCH  OF  THE 


pore,  to  return  to  this  station,  thereby  complying 
with  the  earnest  request  of  some  Christian  friends. 
He  immediately  undertook  several  English  ser- 
vices, and  a school  of  about  forty  scholars,  of  whom 
several  were  boarders,  was  collected  under  the 
care  of  his  excellent  companion^.Mrs.  McEwen. 
These  labours  were  continued  with  much  encour- 
agement until  Mr.  McEwen’s  health  failed  entirely, 
and  a removal  to  another  climate  seemed  to  offer 
the  only  hope  of  saving  his  life.  In  the  meantime 
a church  was  organized  of  persons  speaking  the 
English  language,  and  the  general  prospects  of  the 
station  were  so  favourable  that  it  was  only  from  a 
conviction  of  its  necessity  that  Mr.  McEwen  con- 
sented to  leave  in  1838. 

Arrangements  had  been  made  for  the  Rev.  J.  W. 
Wilson  to  take  charge  of  the  station,  and  he  re- 
moved to  Allahabad  in  the  beginning  of  this  year. 
Some  occurrences  of  a painful  nature  shortly  after- 
wards took  place  in  the  conduct  of  one  or  two  of 
the  assistants,  which  led  to  the  breaking  up  of  the 
school;  but  afterwards  it  was  resumed  with  better 
prospects.  Mr.  Wilson  devoted  much  of  his  time 
to  preaching  the  gospel  among  the  natives,  for 
which  purpose  Allahabad  affords  opportunities  to 
a very  wide  extent,  as  in  the  estimation  of  the 
Hindus  it  is  only  less  sacred  than  Hardwar  or 
Benares,  and  great  multitudes  of  pilgrims  resort 
thither  every  cold  season  for  purposes  of  religious 
ablution  and  other  observances. 

At  the  end  of  May  in  this  year  Mr.  Wilson  was 
joined  by  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Morrison,  of  the  fourth 
company  of  missionaries,  consisting  of  himself  and 
the  Rev.  H.  R.  Wilson,  Jr.,  Mr.  R.  Morris,  Jr.,  a 
printer,  designated  to  Lodiana,  and  Mr.  J.  Craig, 
a teacher,  appointed  to  Saharunpur,  with  their 


HISTORY  OF  THE  MISSIONS. 


219 


wives,  who  had  arrived  at  Calcutta  on  the  7th  of 
April,  in  the  ship  Charles  Wharton,  from  Phila- 
delphia, after  a safe  voyage.  Before  they  could 
leave  Calcutta,  they  were  called  to  mourn  over 
the  sudden  death  of  Mrs.  Morrison,  of  the  cholera. 
She  was  taken  to  her  rest  on  the  28th  of  April. 
She  was  a daughter  of  Dr.  E.  D.  Ward,  of  Bloom- 
field, New  Jersey,  and  a woman  of  great  excel- 
lence of  character  and  devotedness  to  her  work. 
None  could  be  more  deeply  lamented  by  those 
who  had  the  pleasure  of  knowing  her  worth.  Her 
remains  now  rest  in  the  Scotch  burial  groud,  be- 
side those  of  her  missionary  sister,  who  in  1833, 
was  called  first  home  from  her  Lord’s  work  in 
India. 

Mr.  Morrison  afterwards  proceeded  in  advance 
of  his  companions  to  Allahabad,  where  he  relieved 
Mr.  Wilson  of  the  English  services,  giving  his 
attention  also  to  labours  among  the  natives. 

The  Rev.  Messrs.  J.  E.  Freeman,  and  J.  Warren 
and  their  wives,  and  the  Rev.  J.  L.  Scott  and  wife, 
appointed  to  Futtehgurh,  composing  the  fifth  com- 
pany of  missionaries,  reached  Calcutta  about  the 
1st  of  March,  1839,  in  the  ship  George  Gardner, 
from  Boston,  after  a good  voyage;  and  the  two 
first  named  of  these  gentlemen  joined  the  Allaha- 
bad mission  in  the  same  year.  They  had  brought 
with  them  a printing  press,  which  is  placed  under 
Mr.  Warren's  care,  as  he  had  formerly  been  a 
practical  printer.  Another  printing  press  was  sent 
to  this  station  during  the  last  year,  and  the  estab- 
lishment is  considered  an  effective  and  very  impor- 
tant means  of  doing  good.  A school  for  orphan 
children  was  formed,  and  now  contains  about  fifty 
pupils.  A native  church  was  organized  in  1841, 
under  circumstances  of  much  interest,  and  several 


220 


A SKETCH  OF  THE 


natives  have  been  admitted  to  church-fellowship. 
A church  has  been  erected  for  native  services, 
through  the  liberality  of  R.  Montgomery,  Esq.  of 
the  Civil  Service,  and  other  English  gentlemen; 
and  a valuable  property  has  been  purchased  on 
favourable  terms  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  where 
most  of  the  mission  families  now  reside,  and  have 
their  printing  establishment  and  schools. 

The  Rev.  J.  Owen,  of  the  sixth  company  of 
missionaries,  reached  Calcutta  on  the  25th  of  De- 
cember, 1840,  in  the  Eugene,  from  Boston,  after  a 
favourable  voyage.  The  Rev.  Messrs.  J.  C.  Ran- 
kin, and  W.  A.  McAuley,  with  their  wives,  and 
Miss  Vanderveer,  who  arrived  in  the  same  vessel, 
proceeded  to  Futtehgurh,  while  Mr.  Owen,  agree- 
ably to  a previous  arrangement,  remained  at  Alla- 
habad, where  he  arrived  in  the  early  part  of  last 
year. 

On  the  13th  of  September  of  last  year,  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  L.  Janvier  and  J.  Wray,  and  their  wives, 
being  the  seventh  company  of  Missionaries  to  the 
Upper  India  stations,  embarked  at  Philadelphia  for 
Calcutta  in  the  ship  Washington,  the  former  desig- 
nated to  Lodiana,  and  the  latter  to  Allahabad. 
Allahabad  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Ganges 
and  Jumna  rivers,  about  five  hundred  miles  north- 
west of  Calcutta;  it  contains  a large  native  popu- 
lation, and  is  probably  the  most  important  station 
in  Upper  India,  as  the  seat  of  various  courts,  and 
the  place  of  residence  of  many  important  officers 
of  the  Civil  Service.  Its  celebrity  in  the  estima- 
tion of  the  natives  for  its  holiness  has  been  already 
adverted  to. 

Futtehgurh,  on  the  Ganges,  about  seven  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  north-west  from  Calcutta,  was 
recommended  in  connection  with  the  large  city  of 


HISTORY  OF  THE  MISSIONS. 


221 


Furrukhabad  as  an  eligible  place  for  missionary 
labour,  by  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Wilson  and  Newton 
on  their  journey  to  Lodiana  in  1835.  Mr.  Wilson 
then  wrote  as  follows — 

“ While  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Furrukhabad, 
I wish  to  make  a few  suggestions  to  the  Executive 
Committee  respecting  this  place  as  a promising 
field  for  a missionary.  It  seems  to  have  been  over- 
looked by  those  who  have  had  the  distribution  of 
missionary  labour  in  this  part  of  India.  It  is  an 
ancient  and  very  populous  city.  No  certain  data 
are  available  as  to  the  present  population.  The 
Baboo,  a native  gentleman,  who  called  on  us 
last  evening,  supposes  the  population  about  one 
hundred  thousand.  It  is  entirely  a native  popu- 
lation, free  from  the  hinderances  which  the  pre- 
sence of  Europeans  sometimes  throws  around 
those  who  labour  for  the  religious  instruction  of 
the  natives.  Judging  from  the  manufactures  ex- 
hibited in  the  shops,  and  the  lively  business-tone 
that  pervaded  the  whole,  I take  it  to  be  a place  of 
considerable  native  trade.  The  people  appear  to 
be  cheerful,  active,  and  interesting  in  a high  de- 
gree  Who  can  estimate  the  good  which 

might  be  accomplished  by  the  missionary  who 
could  take  his  station  every  day  in  these  thronged 
streets,  to  preach  and  distribute  the  glad  tidings  of 
the  kingdom!  Furrukhabad  lies  about  six  miles 
back  from  Futtehgurh,  which  is  a small  military 
station  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  large  boats  on 
the  Ganges.  It  is  the  point  at  which  a great  part 
of  the  goods,  and  also  the  travellers  to  the  upper 
provinces  leave  the  river.  It  would,  therefore,  be 
a very  convenient  intermediate  station  and  medium 
of  transmission  from  Lodiana  to  Calcutta,  or  any 
of  the  stations  down  the  river.  If  the  Society 


222 


A SKETCH  OF  THE 


should  find  ils  resources  sufficient  at  any  nearly 
approaching  period,  it  appears  to  brother  N.  and 
myself  that  it  might  be  a very  eligible  station  for  a 
branch  of  a mission.  The  nearest  efficient  mis- 
sionary station  is  Chunar,  nearly  three  hundred 
miles  below,  and  Delhi , half  that  distance  above. 
Here  is  indeed  a wide  field.” 

It  was  not,  however,  until  the  latter  part  of 
1838,  that  Futtehgurh  became  a mission  station. 
The  interesting  circumstances  under  which  the 
Rev.  H.  R.  Wilson,  Jr.  was  led  to  commence 
missionary  efforts  at  this  place  are  set  forth  clear- 
ly in  the  following  extract  from  his  letter  to  the 
Board,  of  November  19,  1838. 

“ This  subject  was  discussed  by  us  at  Allahabad, 
and  it  was  there  decided  unanimously,  that  Capt. 
W.  should  be  written  to  for  information,  and  [in 
case  of  certain  circumstances  occurring]  that  one 
of  our  party,  and  that  one  myself,  should  stop 
there,  and  commence  a mission,  at  least  until  the 
next  reinforcement  should  arrive. 

During  our  stay  at  Cawnpore,  Dr.  Madden,  of 
the  civil  service,  a devotedly  pious  man,  who  had 
a large  and  flourishing  school  for  orphans  at  Fut- 
tehpore,  almost  fifty  miles  belowr  Cawppore,  arriv- 
ed with  his  wife  in  the  last  stage  of  disease.  On 
account  of  her  ill  health,  he  had  made  arrange- 
ments for  dismissing  his  school,  and  for  leaving 
the  place  permanently.  He  offered  me  his  whole 
property,  which  he  had  fitted  up  at  a great  expense 
for  the  convenience  of  the  school,  and  which  he 
estimated  at  seven  thousand  rupees,  together  with 
the  ,school-books,  apparatus,  &c.,  if  I would  go 
and  settle  at  Futtehpore  as  a missionary 

While  we  were  casting  in  our  minds  what  we 
ought  to  do,  I received  a very  friendly  letter  from 


HISTORY  OF  THE  MISSIONS. 


223 


Capt.  W.,  offering  every  encouragement  to  my 
coming  here.  I submitted  this  matter  not  only  to 
the  brethren  here,  but  also  to  those  at  Allahabad, 
Saharunpur,  Lodiana,  and  Sabathu.  Whilst  the 
brethren  above  expressed  a desire  that  I should  go 
on  to  Lodiana,  still  they  heartily  assented  to  my 
stopping  here,  if  such  seemed  to  us  to  be  duty. 
The  brethren  Craig,  Caldwell,  and  Morris,  were 
even  more  decided  than  I was  with  regard  to  the 
path  of  duty.  As  Capt.  W.  had  sent  all  the  or- 
phans under  his  care  to  the  missionaries  at  Ben- 
ares, and  as  those  under  Dr.  Madden’s  care  had  in 
some  measure  been  weaned  from  their  heathenish 
practices,  and  had  received  some  religious  instruc- 
tion, it  was  concluded  that  I should  take  half  of 
them,  twenty-five  boys  and  twenty-five  girls,  to 
Futtehgurh,  for  the  formation  of  an  orphan  asylum 
and  the  nucleus  of  a Christian  colony  there. 

The  mission  thus  auspiciously  commenced  has 
continued  to  enjoy  manifest  proofs  of  the  Divine 
favour,  of  which  not  the  least  was  the  obtaining  a 
well  educated  and  pious  native,  Gopinath  Nundi, 
as  an  assistant  missionary.  The  number  of  orphan 
children  has  been  enlarged  to  upwards  of  one 
hundred,  all  of  whom  are  receiving  a Christian 
education.  Many  of  them  are  learning  the  carpet- 
making business,  and  it  is  proposed  to  settle  them 
in  a village  by  themselves  under  Christian  regula- 
tions. The  Government  in  1840  generously  placed 
a valuable  tract  of  land  at  the  disposal  of  the  mis- 
sionaries for  this  purpose. 

In  1839,  the  Rev.  J.  L.  Scott  and  wife,  reached 
this  station,  and  a school  was  opened  in  Furrukha- 
bad  for  teaching  Persian  and  English,  which  is 
now  attended  by  about  seventy  pupils.  In  1841, 
the  Rev.  Messrs.  J.  C.  Rankin,  W.  H.  McAuley, 


224 


A SKETCH  OF  THE 


and  their  wives,  and  Miss  Vanderveer,  reached 
Futtehgurh.  A church  was  shortly  to  be  organized 
by  the  last  accounts  received. 

These  stations  are  classed  in  three  Missions, 
called  after  the  names  of  prominent  cities,  the 
Lodiana  Mission,  embracing  Lodiana,  Saharunpur, 
and  Sabathu;  the  Furrukhabad  Mission,  having  as 
yet  but  the  station  of  Futtehgurh;  and  the  Allaha- 
bad Mission,  with  but  one  station  yet  formed,  that 
of  Allahabad.  Eacli  of  these  Missions  is  distinct 
from  the  others,  and  they  report  directly  to  the 
Board,  whose  seat  of  operations  is  in  New  York. 

The  missionaries  at  Lodiana  were  formed  into 
a Presbytery  in  1836,  which  was  recognized  by 
the  General  Assembly  in  1841,  and  is  called  the 
Presbytery  of  Lodiana,  embracing  the  ministers  at 
Lodiana  and  Sabathu.  The  same  General  Assem- 
bly constituted  the  ministers  connected  with  the 
Furrukhabad  and  Allahabad  Missions  into  Pres- 
byteries, known  by  those  names  respectively;  and 
these  three  Presbyteries  are  connected  together  as 
the  Synod  of  North  India.  The  Presbytery  of 
Lodiana,  at  their  first  meeting,  received  two  na- 
tives under  their  care  as  candidates  for  the  holy 
ministry,  and  the  Presbytery  of  Furrukhabad  have 
also  taken  under  their  care  a native  convert  of 
much  promise  for  the  same  sacred  office.  The 
missionaries  at  Saharunpur  are  of  the  Reformed 
Presbyterian  Church,  and  have  also  been  organized 
into  a Presbytery  by  the  Synod  of  their  Church. 

To  present  at  one  view  a summary  of  these 
missions,  the  following  statistics  are  given. 

There  are  now  three  missions,  five  stations, 
seventeen  ordained  ministers  of  the  gospel,  one 
printer,  one  teacher,  nearly  all  of  whom  are  mar- 
ried men;  several  valuable  native  assistants  ; three 


HISTORY  OF  MISSIONS. 


225 


schools,  containing  nearly  two  hundred  orphan 
children,  who  are  supported  and  brought  up  by 
the  missionaries  as  if  they  were  the  children  of 
Christian  parents;  three  English  schools,  with 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  scholars,  and  several 
common  or  day  schools ; two  printing  establish- 
ments, with  book-binderies;  and  four  churches, 
whose  members  comprise  the  families  of  the  mis- 
sionaries, and  a number  of  native  converts,  besides 
the  orphan  children,  who  have  all  received  the  or- 
dinance of  baptism. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 

The  northwestern  provinces  not  occupied  with  Missionary 
institutions — Urgent  wants  of  adult  Heathens — Encour- 
agement of  Christian  effort — India  open  for  Missionary 
labours — An  interior  movement  now  in  progress — The 
Hindus  in  a transition  state ; shall  they  become  Chris- 
tians or  Infidels? — Religious  movements  en  masse — The 
kind  of  men  required  as  Missionaries. 

It  certainly  deserves  our  devout  thanksgiving,  that 
so  large  a mission  establishment  is  now  planted 
and  exerting  an  effective  influence  where,  a few 
years  ago,  there  was  but  a solitary  pioneer,  or 
rather  where  but  a year  or  two  before,  the  wants 
and  even  the  names  of  those  provinces,  and  their 
millions  of  people,  were  little  known  to  our 
churches.  A beginning  has  been  made,  a number 
of  faithful  labourers  are  engaged  in  their  Lord’s 
work,  schools  have  been  formed,  the  Sacred  Scrip- 
20 


226 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


tures  printed  and  circulated  widely,  churches  and 
Presbyteries  constituted,  and  the  work  of  convert- 
ing' grace  displayed,  and  still  in  progress;  this  is 
surely  the  Lord’s  work,  and  it  is  marvellous  in  our 
eyes.  We  cannot  but  regard  the  past  history  of 
those  missions  as  presenting  a strong  inducement 
to  enlarged  efforts,  and  as  holding  out  good  en- 
couragement of  final  success. 

That  success  should  be  devoutly  prayed  for  in 
these  endeavours,  no  one  can  doubt,  who  considers 
how  lamentable  is  the  condition  of  men  not  enjoy- 
ing the  light  of  Revelation,  and  how  far  above  all 
price  are  the  benefits  conferred  on  those  who  sin- 
cerely embrace  the  gospel  of  Jesus  Christ.  Every 
motive  that  induces  Christians  to  set  a high  esti- 
mate on  their  religion,  should  persuade  them  to 
use  all  proper  means  to  extend  its  blessings  to 
those  who  are  destitute  of  them.  Nor  is  this  duty 
left  to  their  choice.  Its  performance  is  made  bind- 
ing by  the  command  of  Christ.  The  generous 
promptings,  however,  of  their  benign  faith,  not 
less  than  the  beautiful  example  of  their  blessed 
Lord,  should  constrain  them  to  offer  a free  and 
ready  service  on  behalf  of  those  who  are  repre- 
sented in  Sacred  Scripture,  with  touching  sim- 
plicity, as  “ sitting  in  darkness  and  the  shadow  of 
death.” 

The  entire  north-western  part  of  India,  above  a 
line  drawn  between  Benares  and  Allahabad,  may 
be  regarded  as  specially  open  to  our  missionaries. 
There  are  many  important  places  below  that  line 
where  they  might  be  well  employed,  indeed  where 
the  services  of  missionaries  are  most  urgently  re- 
quired ; and  they  would  be  made  welcome  by  the 
missionaries  of  other  branches  of  the. Church  of 
Christ,  now  employed  in  the  lower  provinces,  their 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


227 


numbers  and  resources  being  altogether  inadequate 
to  the  work  in  which  they  are  engaged.  But  in 
those  north  and  north-western  parts  of  India,  there 
are  no  other  missionaries  from  the  American 
Church,  and  but  few  from  the  English  Societies. 
The  entire  number  of  European  missionaries  is 
probably  under  a dozen,  nor  is  there  a prospect  of 
this  number  being  much  increased.  There  is  am- 
ple room,  therefore,  for  the  employment  of  many 
morfe  missionaries  from  this  country.  Those  upper 
parts  of  India,  from  Allahabad  to  the  Indus,  and 
from  the  mountains  so  far  westward  as  to  include 
the  Raj-put  tribes,  comprise  the  provinces  of  Alla- 
habad, Agra,  and  Delhi,  part  of  Malwa,  and  the 
whole  of  Rajputana,  the  kingdom  of  Oude,  the 
Protected  Hill  and  Sikh  States,  and  the  entire 
kingdom  of  the  Panjab,  including  Cashmere,  con- 
taining in  all  a population  of  perhaps  thirty  mil- 
lions. And  besides  these,  the  provinces  of  Scinde, 
on  the  lower  waters  of  the  Indus,  the  countries  of 
Beloochistan  and  Afghanistan,  west  of  the  Indus, 
and  Thibet,  on  the  north-east,  can  all  be  reached 
from  this  part  of  India,  perhaps  better  than  from 
any  other  quarter.  In  all  these  countries  there  is 
no  mission  establishment  whatever. 

Now  although  we  grant  the  position  already  ad- 
verted to  incidentally,  that  one  great  object  of 
missions  is  to  prepare  the  natives  for  becoming 
themselves  preachers  of  righteousness  to  their 
countrymen,  yet  we  cannot  doubt  the  extreme  im- 
portance of  all  labours  that  look  to  the  conversion 
of  adult  heathens.  And  these  must  be  made  by 
foreign  missionaries,  if  our  benevolence  shall  reach 
the  generation  now  on  the  stage  of  life.  In  a few 
years  more,  they  will  go  down  to  the  land  of 


228 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


the  work  of  training  up  native  youths,  and  sending 
them  forth  on  this  high  errand  of  mercy,  to  their 
fathers  and  older  countrymen.  It  may  justly  be 
said,  that  the  Christians  now  living  must  put  them- 
selves in  communication  with  the  heathens  now 
living,  and  that  chiefly  by  their  direct  efforts,  if 
the  latter  are  made  to  know  the  true  God,  and 
eternal  life,  which  is  through  his  son  Jesus  Christ 
our  Lord.  And  beyond  all  question,  the  followers 
of  Christ  are  responsible,  and  will  be  held  to  a 
strict  account  in  the  great  day,  for  the  fulfilment  of 
this  duty,  according  to  the  measure  of  their  means 
and  opportunities, 

If  to  any  it  should  appear  a hopeless  work  to 
preach  Christ,  and  him  crucified,  to  adult  heathens, 
confirmed  in  evil  habits,  and  surrounded  with  tem- 
poral interests,  altogether  adverse  to  their  believing 
on  the  Son  of  God,  let  it  be  remembered  that 
there  is  the  same  encouragement  now  as  in  the 
first  ages  of  the  Church.  A minister  of  the  gos- 
pel has  the  same  reasons  to  expect  the  Divine 
blessing  on  his  ministrations  among  the  Hindus, 
that  encouraged  the  apostle  Paul  to  preach  in  the 
city  of  Ephesus.  In  both  cases,  it  is  by  the  fool- 
ishness of  preaching  that  God  is  pleased  to  save 
them  that  believe.  In  both  cases,  it  is  the  power 
of  God  that  must  overcome  the  otherwise  insupe- 
rable difficulties  that  would  hinder  and  utterly  pre- 
vent the  conversion  of  any  pagan,  either  in  ancient 
or  modern  times.  And  that  power  shall  not  be 
withheld,  when  the  followers  of  Christ  sincerely 
seek  its  aid,  and  employ  the  appointed  means 
through  which  that  aid  is  given.  On  this  principle 
rest  the  whole  foundation  and  superstructure  of 
Christian  Missions.  And  it  is  a principle  of  per- 
fectly established  firmness. 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


229 


In  India,  the  way  is  made  ready  for  the  employ- 
ment of  these  appointed  means.  That  country, 
and  its  multitudes  of  inhabitants,  are  now  under 
the  control  of  a Protestant  government;  and  Chris- 
tian ministers,  without  receiving  any  special  favour, 
which  indeed  they  need  not  desire,  are  protected 
as  citizens,  and  may  spend  their  entire  strength  in 
the  fulfilment  of  their  holy  vocation,  no  man  hin- 
dering them,  nor  making  them  afraid.  After 
learning  the  language,  they  may  preach  the  gospel 
to  the  natives,  not  often  in  congregations  statedly 
assembling  in  one  place  of  worship,  but  as  oppor- 
tunity offers,  in  the  midst  of  large  crowds,  or  to  a 
few  villagers,  gathered  around  the  shady  peepul 
tree;  or  to  the  solitary  inquirer  who  comes  like 
Nicodemus,  at  night,  to  their  houses,  to  ask,  how 
can  these  things  be?  or  in  the  midst  of  a school- 
room, day  after  day,  to  a number  of  hopeful 
youth.  They  may  translate  the  Sacred  Scriptures, 
and  place  them  in  the  hands  of  those  who  are  able 
to  read.  They  may  teach  those  converts  who 
possess  suitable  gifts,  the  way  of  God  more  per- 
fectly, and  then  send  them  forth  in  their  Lord’s 
name.  Thus  is  there  an  open  door  set  before  the 
Church,  by  the  good  providence  of  God,  and  the 
voice  of  providence,  no  less  than  the  teaching  of 
revelation,  instructs  the  Church  touching  her  duty. 

Besides  this  outward  door  open,  there  is  an  in- 
terior movement  of  most  deep  interest  now  in 
progress  among  the  Hindus,  which  must  not  be 
overlooked.  Various  influences  are  at  work  un- 
dermining the  existing  fabric  of  superstition.  The 
administration  of  the  government  by  foreigners, 
who,  while  they  protect  all  in  their  common  rights, 
bestow  special  favour  on  no  exclusive  class,  and 
grant  no  immunity  in  crime,  not  even  to  a brah- 


230 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


man,  though  shielded  by  all  the  special  enactments 
of  the  Shastras,  has  a silent  influence  on  the  minds 
of  the  people  against  their  religion ; and  if  this  in- 
fluence be  almost  unseen,  it  is  nevertheless  as 
steady  and  as  mighty  as  the  flowing  of  the  tide  on 
the  ocean.  The  advance  of  knowledge,  on  com- 
mon subjects,  is  not  less  directly  hostile  to  the 
Hindu  religion.  The  peculiar  opinion,  according 
to  which  their  books  on  most  branches  of  know- 
ledge are  accounted  sacred,  has  been  already  point- 
ed out.  And  it  leads  to  most  important  results. 
These  books,  at  least  many  of  them,  are  filled 
with  the  grossest  error,  not  merely  on  religious 
subjects,  but  on  topics  which  every  well  informed 
person  would  be  ashamed  to  be  ignorant  of — such 
as  the  shape  of  the  earth,  the  position  of  its  moun- 
tains, rivers,  &c.,  the  cause  of  eclipses,  the  influ- 
ence of  the  planets  on  human  affairs,  the  manner 
of  curing  diseases,  &c.  Their  belief  in  the  most 
absurd  notions  on  these  subjects,  is  based  on  the 
same  authority  which  has  peopled  their  heavens 
with  millions  of  gods  and  goddesses,  and  which 
has  appointed  their  priests,  and  manifold  ceremo- 
nial observances.  Let  them  see  that  in  the  former 
class  of  things  they  have  been  altogether  mistaken, 
and  it  will  not  be  long  before  they  discover  the 
groundless  claims  of  the  latter.  Both  stand  or  fall 
together.  The  former  are  now  falling.  European 
science,  and  correct  knowledge,  are  supplanting 
the  fables  of  the  East.  Many  of  the  more  influ- 
ential classes,  and  of  those  who  will  become  in- 
fluential, are  now  abandoning  the  silly  legends  of 
the  Hindu  Shastras,  and  their  number  is  constantly 
increasing.  And  commonly,  if  not  always,  these 
Hindus  abandon  at  the  same  time  the  religious 
faith  of  their  country.  For  a while  they  may 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


231 


comply  with  its  outward  forms,  yet  will  they  stop 
in  the  midst  of  their  prayers,  to  tell  you  that  they 
are  merely  conforming  to  what  is  customary.  In- 
deed, to  a great  extent,  the  Hindu  religion  may 
now  be  characterized  as  a religion  of  usage,  and  not 
of  reverence  or  feeling.  It  was  never  a religion 
of  love,  and  therefore  its  hold  on  its  votaries  can 
be  the  more  easily  broken.  Besides  all  this,  mul- 
titudes of  youth  are  now  forming  such  habits  of 
accurate  mental  study,  of  ascertaining  truth  by 
induction  and  severe  reason,  as  would  lead  them 
to  reject  the  visionary  religious  revelations  of  the 
Hindu  sacred  books,  even  were  their  instructions 
on  profane  topics  less  erroneous.  In  short,  the 
Hindus  may  be  regarded  as  now  in  a transition 
state.  They  are  leaving  the  false  and  dangerous 
moorings  of  Hinduism,  and  setting  out  on  the  tide 
of  new  opinions,  impelled  by  a self-trusting  and 
reckless  spirit,  without  chart  or  pilot — where  shall 
their  voyage  end?  Certain  it  is,  that  they  will 
not  continue  pagans  many  generations  longer — 
shall  they  become  sincere  worshippers  of  the  true 
God,  or  madly  follow  the  vain  imaginations  of 
the  natural  mind  into  the  heartless  regions  of  scep- 
ticism? This  question  can  be  answered  satisfac- 
torily, if  the  Church  employ  Christian  agencies  in 
a right  spirit,  and  to  a suitable  extent.  And  it  is 
for  her  encouragement  to  know,  that  all  these 
general  influences,  now  gradually  working  such 
mighty  changes,  are  but  doing  a part  of  her  work. 
They  are  disabusing  the  minds  of  the  people  of 
error;  let  the  servants  of  the  Church  stand  by  and 
fill  their  minds  with  truth.  Let  them  build  up  the 
walls  of  Zion  among  the  Hindus,  while  the  for- 
tresses of  the  great  adversary  are  falling  in  ruins. 

There  is  another  view  of  India  as  a missionary 


232 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


field,  which  cannot  be  surveyed  without  inspiring 
the  mind  with  hope,  not  unmingled  with  anxiety. 
So  intimately  bound  together  are  the  Hindus  in 
their  respective  castes,  and  so  terrible  are  the  con- 
sequences oflosing  one’s  place  in  the  sect  of  which 
he  is  a member,  that  it  is  not  strange  that  so  few 
have  forsaken  Hinduism;  the  wonder  is  rather 
that  so  many  have  become  Christians.  These 
bonds  of  caste  will  keep  men  from  embracing  a 
different  religion  as  individuals,  separately,  but 
they  will  also  lead  to  large  masses  of  people  mak- 
ing that  change  together.  The  motives  which  are 
sufficient  to  influence  the  mind  of  one  man  will, 
before  they  have  led  him  to  any  final  decision, 
have  become  the  motives  of  hundreds  more  of  the 
same  sect;  they  will  then  forsake  their  old  reli- 
gion together,  and  they  will  strengthen  each  other 
in  their  new  faith.  Years  ago  reflecting  observers 
predicted  this  result.  And  within  the  last  two 
years,  a most  striking  example  of  the  correctness 
of  their  opinions  has  been  witnessed  in  Krishna- 
ghur,  a district  of  Bengal,  about  sixty  or  seventy 
miles  north  of  Calcutta,  where  large  numbers  of 
the  Kurta  Bhojas,  one  of  the  smaller  sects,  have 
been  received  into  the  Christian  Church,  under  the 
labours  of  the  English  Episcopal  Missionaries. 
This  movement  extended  to  thousands  of  that  sect, 
while  surounding  sects  were  hardly  at  all  impres- 
sed. Thus  it  probably  will  be  throughout  India. 
Such  is  our  hope.  Our  fear  is  that  when  these 
movements  shall  take  place,  the  Church  may  not 
be  prepared,  with  her  servants  and  their  native  co- 
labourers, to  point  the  minds  of  the  inquiring  multi- 
tudes to  “ the  Lamb  of  Cod  that  taketh  away  the 
sin  of  the  world.”  What  could  the  four  mis- 
sionary brethren  and  their  two  native  assistants 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


233 


accomplish  at  Futtehgurh,  if  the  people  of  Fur- 
rukhabad,  a city  a few  miles  distant,  of  more  than 
one  hundred  thousand  people,  should  now  arise 
en  masse,  renounce  their  idols,  and  seek  a new 
religion  ? It  may  be  said  that  these  changes  cannot 
be  expected  until  the  means  shall  have  been  em- 
ployed to  produce  them,  and  then  those  means 
shall  serve  to  give  them  a safe  direction.  But 
may  there  not  be  light  enough  to  show  them  their 
danger,  and  yet  not  enough  to  point  out  also  the 
way  of  escape  ? Besides,  this  remark  at  best  only 
postpones  the  time  of  these  great  and  general  reli- 
gious movements,  the  arrival  of  which  every  Chris- 
tian should  be  anxious  rather  to  hasten  than  retard. 
And  moreover  there  are,  as  has  been  shown, 
causes  now  at  work  to  produce  such  changes, 
though  a large  part  of  these  causes  are  purely  se- 
cular ; and  unless  Christian  efforts  are  combined 
with  them,  their  result  will  prove  any  thing  else 
than  favourable  to  the  religious  benefit  of  the  peo- 
ple. 

These  considerations,  if  we  do  not  greatly  mis- 
judge, will  be  regarded  by  the  reader  as  clearly 
showing  that  India  is  truly  a most  important  sphere 
of  missionary  labour.  “ The  harvest  truly  is  plen- 
teous, but  the  labourers  are  few.” 

I shall  only  add  in  reference  to  Upper  India, 
that  this  important  field  for  Christian  efforts  was 
brought  to  the  attention  of  that  part  of  the  Church 
by  which  these  missions  are  supported,  at  the  time 
that  she  was  beginning  to  move  forward  as  a dis- 
tinct tribe  in  Israel  in  the  great  missionary  work. 
It  is  not  presumptuous  for  us  to  believe  that  in  this 
there  was  far  more  than  a merely  casual  co-inci- 
dence— Let  those,  who  have  “understanding  of 


234 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


the  times  to  know  what  Israel  ought  to  do,”  con- 
sider to  what  important  results  this  connection 
should  lead. 

The  question  has  been  asked,  what  kind  of  men 
are  needed  for  missionary  service  in  India?  It  is 
obvious  that  in  so  large  a field  of  labour,  there 
must  be  room  for  the  employment  of  men  of  very 
different  and  unequal  gifts.  Among  the  apostles, 
the  earliest  missionaries,  usefulness  was  not  limited 
to  the  labours  of  the  highly  gifted  Paul,  but  Thomas 
also,  a man  of  far  less  talent  and  learning,  has  left 
traces  of  his  success  in  his  Lord’s  work,  in  places 
further  distant  from  Jerusalem  than  Paul  ever 
travelled. 

While  there  is  ample  scope  for  the  full  employ- 
ment of  talents  of  the  highest  order,  men  of  mode- 
rate abilities  should  not  be  discouraged  from  enter- 
ing on  the  missionary  field  in  India.  It  is  highly 
desirable,  however,  that  our  missionaries  should 
be  talented,  wise,  learned,  and  practical  men;  the 
stronger  in  these  respects  they  are,  the  better;  if 
only  they  have  such  a degree  of  excellence  in  their 
religious  character  as  shall  guard  them  from  self 
confidence  and  other  evils,  to  which  talented  men 
of  little  piety  are  exposed.  I would  insist  far  more 
on  matured  and  deep  religious  attainments  than  on 
talents  and  learning  in  a missionary.  He  should 
have  such  convictions  of  his  own  unworthiness, 
such  views  of  his  Lord’s  glory,  and  such  desires 
for  the  salvation  of  the  heathen,  as  would  make 
him  at  once  humble,  zealous,  and  constantly  patient 
and  laborious  in  his  sacred  calling.  A self-willed 
man  ought  not  to  be  a missionary,  especially  if  he 
is  to  be  associated  with  others;  nor  should  one 
who  desires  to  have  the  preeminence.  Even  in 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


235 


the  Church  at  home,  a man  who  cannot  bear  con- 
tradiction without  impatience,  but  must  have  his 
own  way  or  none,  who  is  anxious  to  be  known  as 
the  principal  agent,  and  to  hear  his  own  proceedings 
conspicuously  set  forth  ; who  can  allow  himself  to 
speak  harshly  and  contemptuously  of  his  breth- 
ren; who  has  a suspicious  temper,  readily  takes 
offence,  and  is  slow  to  forgive ; especially  if  he 
have  more  than  common  ability,  or  is  supported  by 
any  thing  peculiar  in  his  family  connections,  or  in 
his  position  in  the  community, — such  a man  is 
sure  to  be  both  the  cause  and  the  occasion  of  trouble 
and  dissension,  though  he  is  here  surrounded  by  a 
thousand  counteracting  and  regulating  influences. 
To  make  a minister  of  the  gospel  of  such  a man, 
is  a very  doubtful  service  to  the  Church  of  Christ; 
to  make  a missionary  of  such  a man  would  be  a 
severe  trial  to  those  who  might  be  compelled  to 
associate  with  him,  and  would  probably  contribute 
little  to  the  establishment  of  the  gospel  among  the 
heathen.  I am  thankful  that  1 have  never  met 
with  such  a missionary,  and  I have  drawn  the 
sketch  only  to  present  at  one  view  various  evil 
traits,  which  should  be  guarded  against  with  all 
care.  The  seeds  of  these  evils  are  found  in  the 
corrupt  nature  of  man.  Religion  alone  can  effec- 
tually restrain  and  correct  their  influence.  Where 
missionaries  are  so  few  in  number,  so  closely  con- 
nected together,  and  so  dependent  on  each  other, 
there  should  be  special  care  to  exclude  every  thing 
that  would  hinder  theirhappiness  or  their  usefulness. 
No  one  should  expect  special  deference  to  be  paid 
to  his  views,  every  one  should  be  willing  to  sub- 
mit himself  to  his  brethren  in  the  Lord,  and  all 
should  aim  to  excel  in  humility  of  mind,  in  the 


236 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


study  of  whatsoever  things  are  lovely,  and  in  a 
sacred  devotion  to  the  great  object  of  their  mission. 
Let  a sufficient  number  of  such  missionaries  be 
employed,  and  let  the  Church  support  them  with 
her  gift6  and  her  prayers,  and  the  time  shall  not  be 
long  distant  when  the  praise  of  the  most  high  God 
shall  ascend  from  the  millions  of  India. 


APPENDIX. 


i. 

ON  THE  CONDITION  OF  THE  HEATHEN. 

Referred  to  on  page  40. 

Many  are  ready  to  say,  “ God  is  infinitely  mer- 
ciful, and  surely  will  not  condemn  to  everlasting 
punishment  the  myriads  of  creatures  whom  he 
has  made — especially  as  they  are  in  such  great 
ignorance  concerning  what  he  requires  of  them.” 
This  opinion  is  often  maintained ; and  it  is  still 
more  generally  felt,  as  a vague  apprehension,  not 
clothed  in  words,  and  yet  exerting  a decided  influ- 
ence on  the  feelings  and  conduct  of  many  who 
have,  probably,  never  been  at  the  trouble  of  ex- 
amining its  correctness. 

One  thing  is  quite  obvious — if  the  heathen  do 
not  need  the  Gospel  in  order  to  their  salvation, 
Christians  may  rvell  forbear  to  make  the  sacrifices, 
which  are  essentially  necessary  to  the  spread  of 
our  religion  in  heathen  countries.  These  sacri- 
fices are  not  only  distressingly  severe  in  some  of 
their  forms,  but  they  are  uncalled  for. — Another 
inference  from  this  opinion  is  equally  plain  and  far 
more  important — if  the  heathen  do  not  need  the 
Gospel,  let  Christians  by  no  means  attempt  to 
send  it  to  them ; nay  more,  let  them  order  home 
every  missionary,  and  if  possible  call  back  every 
Bible  that  has  been  put  in  circulation  in  heathen 
lands.  Without  the  Gospel  and  the  means  of 


238 


APPENDIX. 


grace,  according  to  this  opinion,  they  are  safe ; 
but  with  them  their  responsibility  would  be  like 
our  own,  and  all  who  reject  the  offers  of  mercy  or 
neglect  this  great  salvation,  would  go  down,  like 
the  finally  impenitent  among  ourselves  to  an  aggra- 
vated condemnation.  Let  us,  as  compassionate 
men,  avoid  whatever  would  lead  to  this  result  as 
the  greatest  of  all  calamities  to  our  heathen  neigh- 
bours, and  let  us  leave  them  in  their  ignorance, 
which,  if  not  the  means  of  direct  happiness,  is  at 
least  their  security  from  positive  suffering.  Still 
another  consequence  from  the  opinion  stated  at  the 
beginning  of  this  paper  is,  that  if  the  present  gen- 
eration of  the  heathen  do  not  need  the  Gospel,  no 
more  did  our  own  forefathers  need  it.  They,  too, 
were  heathens,  as  ignorant  and  degraded  as  most 
heathen  people  of  the  present  day.  And  if  the 
former  generations  of  the  heathen  were  as  little  in 
need  of  the  Gospel  as  those  who  live  at  the  pre- 
sent day,  then  why  did  our  Saviour  come  into  our 
world  and  die  on  the  cross  ? His  salvation  is  not 
necessary  to  the  well-being  of  the  present  race  of 
the  heathen ; it  was  not  necessary  to  the  former 
generations — it  might  have  been  withheld,  it  was 
a work  of  supererogation!  Such  is  the  impious 
conclusion  to  which  we  are  conducted,  by  easy 
steps,  from  the  opinion  under  review. 

But  it  will  be  urged,  that  it  is  on  account  of  the 
death  of  Christ,  that  the  heathen  are  not  in  the 
hopeless  condition  in  which  they  are  sometimes 
represented  to  be;  and  that  in  some  way,  to  us  it 
may  be  unintelligible,  God,  in  his  infinite  mercy, 
will  save  them.  In  this  modified  form,  the  opinion 
is  entertained  by  many.  Christianity,  if  its  amia- 
ble and  elevating  influences  were  diffused  gene- 
rally among  the  heathen  nations,  would  prove  a 


APPENDIX. 


239 


great  blessing,  but  without  its  direct  instrumen- 
tality they  may  be  partakers  of  the  grace  which 
Christ  died  to  procure  for  the  children  of  men. 

This  opinion,  even  in  its  modified  form,  is 
exposed  to  the  entire  force  of  the  two  former  infer- 
ences already  stated ; and  we  believe  that  it  is  in- 
consistent with  the  clearly  revealed  will  of  God. 
We  shall  quote  but  one  passage: 

“ Whosoever  shall  call  on  the  name  of  the  Lord 
shall  be  saved.  How  then  shall  they  call  on  him 
in  whom  they  have  not  believed  ? and  how  shall 
they  believe  in  him  of  whom  they  have  not  heard? 
and  how  shall  they  hear  without  a preacher?” 
Rom.  x.  13,  14. 

Hearing,  believing,  calling  upon  God,  are  here 
represented  as  necessary  alike  to  the  Jew  and  the 
Gentile,  in  order  to  their  being  saved.  If  the 
apostle  had  been  constructing  an  argument  ex- 
pressly to  refute  the  opinion  referred  to  above, 
could  he  have  selected  stronger  terms? 

We  must  form  our  belief  concerning  the  condi- 
tion of  the  heathen,  as  of  other  men,  from  what 
we  know  of  the  character,  government,  and  will 
of  God,  and  also  from  what  we  know  of  the 
character  and  conduct  of  the  heathen. 

Now,  in  examining  this  important  subject,  we 
admit  and  fully  believe  that  God  is  infinite  in 
mercy,  “ not  willing  that  any  should  perish,  but 
that  all  should  come  to  repentance  and  belief  of  the 
truth  that  the  atonement  of  Christ  is  of  infinite 
value,  and  therefore  amply  sufficient  for  the  salva- 
tion of  all  the  millions  of  our  race;  and  that  it  is 
the  pleasure  of  God,  as  certainly  known  from  his 
express  commandment,  that  the  offers  of  salvation, 
and  the  means  of  grace,  should  be  given  to  all 
men. 


240 


APPENDIX. 


But  whether  all  men,  or  whether  any  men, 
without  those  means  of  grace  which  have  been 
divinely  appointed,  can  be  saved,  is  a question  not 
at  all  determined  by  these  great  truths.  We  know 
that  “ the  angels  which  kept  not  their  first  estate 
are  reserved  in  everlasting  chains,  under  darkness, 
unto  the  judgment  of  the  great  day” — and  yet  God 
is  infinite  in  his  mercy.  We  know  that  “ Sodom 
and  Gomorrha,  and  the  cities  about  them,  in  like 
manner  giving  themselves  over  to  fornication,  are 
set  forth  for  an  example,  suffering  the  vengeance 
of  eternal  fire” — and  yet  salvation  by  faith  in  the 
Messiah  to  come  was  the  blessed  portion  of  many 
in  their  day.  There  is  the  same  difficulty  pre- 
cisely in  reconciling  their  destruction  with  the 
mercy  of  God  and  with  the  grace  of  Christ,  which 
is  assumed  in  regard  to  the  heathen  of  the  present 
or  of  any  other  age.  Indeed,  if  these  general  views 
of  the  mercy  of  God  and  of  the  compassion  of 
Christ  be  alone  appealed  to,  we  do  not  see  in  what 
way  the  belief  of  the  Universalists  can  be  avoid- 
ed— that  all  men  shall  be  saved. 

But  there  are  other  most  important  and  most 
clearly  revealed  truths  to  be  considered  here: — All 
men  are  under  the  righteous  government  of  God, 
and  are  accountable  to  him  for  their  conduct ; and 
he  “will  render  unto  every  man  according  to  what 
he  hath  done,  whether  it  be  good  or  bad.”  It  is 
preposterous  to  maintain  that  the  accountability  of 
men  is  taken  away  by  their  ignorance;  because 
that  ignorance  itself  is  the  result  of  sin  which  has 
blinded  their  minds;  and  moreover,  it  is  a wilful 
ignorance,  not  complained  of  by  them.  The  go- 
vernment of  God  cannot  be  set  aside  by  the  sinful 
ignorance  of  his  creatures ; sin  cannot  be  admitted 
as  an  apology  for  itself  under  any  government. 


APPENDIX. 


241 


The  authority  of  even  human  laws  is  not  to  be 
subverted,  nor  can  their  claims  be  satisfied,  by  the 
contented  ignorance  of  those  who  are  subject  to 
them.  This  very  blindness  is  a proof  that  the 
authority  of  the  Divine  government  will  be  enfor- 
ced, for  it  is  partly  of  a judicial  character.  (See 
Rom.  i.  28.) 

Again:  God  is  just  no  less  than  merciful. 

Mercy  cannot  be  exercised  at  the  expense  of  any 
other  perfection  of  the  Divine  character ; and  the 
claims  of  justice  must  be  satisfied  either  by  the 
death  of  the  sinner,  (Rom.  v.  12.  Gal.  iii.  10.)  or 
by  the  atoning  blood  of  Christ,  in  which  an  inte- 
rest is  to  be  obtained  only  by  faith,  (Rom.  iii.  25. 
Gal.  iii.  13.)  These  are  truths  which  all  Chris- 
tians believe. 

Once  more:  God  is  holy;  and  “without  holi- 
ness it  is  impossible  to  see  God.”  The  pure  in 
heart  are  blessed;  for  they,  and  only  they,  shall 
see  God.  Into  “ that  great  city,  the  holy  Jerusa- 
lem, there  shall  in  no  wise  enter  any  thing  that 
defileth,  neither  whatsoever  worketh  abomination, 
or  maketh  a lie.”  “ Without  are  dogs,  and  sorce- 
rers, and  whoremongers,  and  murderers,  and  idola- 
ters, and  whosoever  loveth  and  maketh  a lie.” 

Now  let  the  character  and  conduct  of  the  hea- 
then nations  be  compared  with  these  truths.  Con- 
sider that,  like  all  men,  they  are  “ by  nature  chil- 
dren of  wrath,”  descendants  of  fallen  parents;  and 
then  examine  the  description  of  heathenism  which 
is  contained  in  the  first  chapter  of  the  epistle  to  the 
Romans — an  account  which  is  abundantly  true, 
according  to  all  testimony,  of  the  heathen  nations 
of  the  present  day.  Look  at  the  multitude  of  sins 
against  God  and  against  man,  of  omission  and 
transgression,  of  heart  and  of  conduct,  of  which 
21 


242 


APPENDIX.' 


the  heathen  are  guilty.  In  the  view  of  their  de- 
praved character  and  sinful  conduct,  if  they  do  not 
obtain  an  interest  in  the  blood  of  Christ  which 
cleanseth  from  all  sin,  can  they  be  suffered  to  go 
free  from  punishment?  If  they  may,  then  all  our 
views  of  the  sovereignty  of  God,  of  the  righteous- 
ness of  his  laws,  of  his  jealous  regard  for  the  jus- 
tice, purity,  and  truth  of  his  throne,  must  undergo 
an  entire  change.  If  they  may  escape  the  displea- 
sure of  God  and  may  be  received  into  his  favour 
when  they  die,  not  only  would  the  Divine  govern- 
ment and  character  be  dishonoured,  but  the  strange 
result  would  be  that  murderers,  adulterers,  idola- 
ters, and  criminals  of  every  grade,  would  be  seen, 
( not  in  robes  of  white)  walking  in  the  streets  of 
the  golden  city.  If  they  may,  with  all  their  de- 
praved dispositions  and  evil  habits  unchanged,  then 
would  they  be  saved  without  salvation : for  salva- 
tion greatly  consists  in  making  those,  who  are  par- 
takers of  it,  new  creatures  in  Christ  Jesus.  And 
if  even  all  this  could  possibly  be  admitted,  would 
those  poor,  depraved  creatures  then  be  happy  in 
the  presence  of  God  infinitely  holy,  and  of  the 
holy  angels,  and  the  spirits  of  the  just  made  per- 
fect? Heaven  itself  would  be  no  heaven  to  them. 

The  conclusion  which  forces  itself  on  the  mind 
from  these  considerations  is  one  of  great  solem- 
nity. We  are  constrained  to  believe  that  the  hea- 
then are  “ without  God  and  without  hope  in  the 
world.”  There  are,  it  is  true,  some  alleviating 
circumstances  which  we  would  not  willingly  over- 
look:— they  will  be  judged  according  to  the  degree 
of  light  which  they  enjoy;  they  will  not  expe- 
rience those  most  terrible  of  all  sufferings  among 
the  lost,  punishment  for  rejecting  the  crucified 
Saviour,  and  remorse  of  conscience  for  having 


APPENDIX. 


243 


known  what  was  duty  in  regard  to  him,  and  yet 
having  refused  to  perform  it;  the  “servant  that 
knew  not  his  Lord’s  will,  and  did  it  not,  shall  be 
beaten  with  few  stripes;”  and  they  are  in  the  hands 
of  the  Judge  of  all  the  earth  who  doelh  right.  Our 
minds  may  rest  perfectly  satisfied  as  to  the  equity 
of  his  dispensations  towards  them. 

Yet  these  are  but  modifications  of  the  view 
which  we  must  take  of  their  condition.  It  is  still 
true  that  they  must  give  account  to  God  for  all  the 
deeds  done  in  the  body,  whether  good  or  bad;  and 
that  God  cannot  permit  sin  to  go  unpunished.  We 
may  forbear  to  dwell  in  our  thoughts  on  the  degree 
of  positive  suffering  which  they  may  have  to  en- 
dure; but  is  it  not  a great  and  most  melancholy 
truth  that  they  are  unfit  to  dwell  in  heaven,  and 
must  be  for  ever  prevented  from  enjoying  its  calm 
repose,  and  holy  light,  and  heartfelt  joy  ? that  they 
cannot  hold  communion  with  the  Father  and  with 
his  Son,  Jesus  Christ,  and  with  the  Holy  Spirit, 
and  with  all  that  is  good  and  lovely  in  the  uni- 
verse? Is  it  not  a fearful  part  of  the  prospect 
before  them,  that  their  associates  and  companions 
shall  for  ever  be  the  devil  and  his  angels,  and  the 
spirits  of  wicked  men  whose  society  will  be 
scarcely  less  insupportable?  Is  it  not  a necessary 
part  of  their  great  loss  and  ruin  as  sinners,  that 
they  must  be  for  ever  abandoned  to  their  own  evil 
passions,  corrupt  propensities,  depraved  habits — 
ever  restless,  ever  craving  indulgence,  ever  con- 
flicting with  each  other,  ever  unsatisfied?  With- 
out adverting  at  present  to  the  thousand  evils  which 
form  a part  of  their  condition  as  heathen  in  this 
world,  or  to  their  want  of  the  manifold  and  great 
blessings  which  crown  our  lives  in  this  Christian 
land,  is  there  not  in  the  condition  and  prospects  of 


244 


APPENDIX. 


the  heathen,  as  immortal  beings,  all  that  should 
awaken  our  deepest  sympathies  for  their  misery, 
and  our  most  sincere  and  zealous  efforts  for  their 
relief?  Would  that  Christians,  dwelling  on  the 
high  places  of  Zion,  and  richly  favoured  with  the 
blessings  of  providence  and  of  grace,  did  but  sur- 
vey the  misery  of  their  heathen  neighbours  with 
some  measure  of  that  compassion,  and  of  that 
readiness  to  seek  their  welfare,  and  of  that  willing- 
ness to  make  sacrifices  to  promote  their  salvation, 
which  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  our  great  Exemplar, 
displayed  when  he  looked  down  from  heaven  upon 
the  ruins  of  our  race,  and  then  came  down  to  earth 
to  suffer,  and  die,  and  rise  again,  that  we  might 
live  for  ever ! 


II. 

ON  THE  RELATION  OF  MISSIONARIES  TO  EURO- 
PEANS  IN  INDIA. 

Referred  to  on  page  44. 

It  may  appear  to  some  a matter  of  small  moment 
what  the  position  of  missionaries  might  be  towards 
other  foreigners  in  India,  but  perhaps  such  persons 
have  not  duly  considered  the  duties,  which  grow 
out  of  circumstances  materially  different  from  those 
in  which  they  have  themselves  been  placed.  Cer- 
tain it  is,  that  the  Apostles  adapted  their  manner  to 
the  different  classes  of  people  amongst  whom  they 
fulfilled  their  ministry. 

Viewed  with  reference  to  our  future  usefulness, 
we  regarded  it  as  kindly  ordered,  that  we  should 
meet  with  no  embarrassment  as  missionaries,  from 
our  social  position,  but  on  the  contrary,  that  all 


APPENDIX. 


245 


our  way  should  be  marked  with  the  favour  of  those 
who  had  the  influence  greatly  to  hinder  or  to  ad- 
vance our  object.  This,  though  not  more  than  we 
were  entitled  to  expect  from  our  standing  as  clergy- 
men, at  home,  was  perhaps  unusual  in  North 
India,  and  at  any  rate  it  was  one  of  those  things  in 
which  we  thankfully  acknowledge  the  favour  of 
God,  in  prospering  our  way.  In  regard  to  this 
subject,  it  has  seemed  to  me  desirable,  that  our 
missionaries  among  the  Hindus  should  be  known, 
in  some  sense,  as  a separate  caste ; they  are  neither 
Churchmen  nor  Dissenters;  they  should  by  no 
means  be  out  of  the  pale  of  society,  and  yet  they 
should  not  be  expected  to  comply  with  all  its 
usages,  as  observed  among  Europeans  in  India; 
but  if  they  may  be  regarded  as  a separate  people, 
respectable  for  talents,  well  educated,  intelligent, 
and  devoted  to  the  single  object  of  converting  the 
Hindus  to  Christ,  then  will  they  enjoy,  I doubt 
not,  the  confidence  and  the  co-operation  of  other 
foreigners  in  that  country,  to  every  needful  extent. 

It  is  not  only  in  social  intercourse,  however,  that 
the  position  of  missionaries  should  be  considered. 
They  have  duties  to  perform,  as  subjects  of  the 
government  whose  protection  they  enjoy.  On 
this  point  I shall  quote  a part  of  the  Instructions  of 
the  Executive  Committee,  addressed  to  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  Freeman,  Scott,  and  Warren,  in  1828, 
as  exhibiting  the  principles  recognized  by  the 
Board. 

“ You  will  bear  in  mind,  dear  brethren,  that 
you  go  to  build  up  a kingdom  that  is  not  of  this 
world.  With  the  civil  government  of  India,  and 
all  the  secular  matters  that  may  agitate  any  portion 
of  its  community,  as  missionaries  of  the  cross,  you 
have  nothing  to  do.  As  you  will  receive  the  pro- 


246 


APPENDIX. 


tection  of  the  laws,  yield  to  the  government  a 
cheerful  and  peaceful  submission,  and  where  it  is 
required,  a cordial  support.  It  may  be  that  in  the 
laws  and  regulations  of  the  British  authorities  in 
India,  and  in  their  administration,  some  things  may 
appear  strange  to  you,  and  some  things  objection- 
able and  wrong.  But  there  are  several  considera- 
tions worthy  of  regard  here.  First,  you  may  not 
for  a long  time  be  very  competent  judges  of  these 
matters.  The  condition  of  the  United  States  and 
that  of  India  are  at  this  time  very  different.  The 
degree  of  liberty,  and  the  laws  and  usages  to  which 
you  have  been  accustomed,  may  be  very  unsuitable 
for  India;  and  yet,  having  enjoyed,  as  your  birth- 
right, all  the  privileges  of  your  own  country,  it 
would  not  be  strange  if  you  deemed  them  the  best 
for  every  other  people.  Again,  the  legislation 
and  the  administration  of  the  government  of  India 
are  in  the  hands  of  able  and  enlightened  men. 
Some  of  the  first  of  British  statesmen  have  been 
engaged  in  this  service;  among  them  are  many 
who  fear  God,  and  who  have  devoted  much  of 
their  time  and  thought,  and  property,  to  advance 
the  best  interests  of  the  people;  and  you  may 
safely  leave  to  them  what  so  properly  belongs  to 
them,  without  anxiety  as  to  the  result. — Finally, 
let  us  suppose,  what  is  no  doubt  the  case,  that 
some  of  the  laws  and  usages  are  wrong,  and  ought 
to  be  corrected.  What  other  country  is  free  from 
the  same  charge?  Certainly  not  our  own,  not- 
withstanding the  blessings  and  privileges  we  enjoy. 
Evils  often  do  exist  in  governments,  requiring 
both  time  and  the  exercise  of  great  wisdom  to 
correct,  without  producing  greater  evils.  Leave 
all  these  matters,  therefore,  as  not  belonging  to 
you ; it  is  not  to  interfere  with  them  that  you  are 


APPENDIX. 


247 


sent  to  India,  but  to  preach  the  gospel  to  the  hea- 
then there,  and  to  persuade  them  to  be  reconciled 
to  God.  It  is  the  earnest  desire  of  the  Board  that 
the  Presbyterian  Missionaries  in  India  may  estab- 
lish such  a character  as  will  ensure  to  them  not 
only  protection,  but  also  the  confidence  and  esteem 
of  those  entrusted  with  the  government.  Let  all 
your  teaching,  all  your  intercourse  with  the  natives, 
ail  your  schools,  and  every  thing  you  print,  be 
open  at  all  times  to  the  inspection  of  the  civil 
officers  : let  it  be  seen  that  you  attend  only  to  your 
appropriate  work,  and  soon  you  will  convince  all 
that  you  are  indeed  the  missionaries  of  the  Prince 
of  Peace.  These  things  are  not  written  in  distrust 
of  you,  or  of  the  brethren  in  India,  nor  with  any 
reference  to  the  past  history  of  that  mission — 
which,  we  are  happy  to  acknowledge,  has  received 
the  full  protection,  and  shared  largely  in  the  kind 
and  generous  feelings  of  the  Europeans  who  ad- 
minister the  authority  of  that  country;  but  we 
have  noticed  them  as  being  of  themselves  impor- 
tant ; and  that  there  may  be  no  mistake  as  to  the 
principles  by  which  we  are  governed.” 

III. 

REASONS  FOR  EXPECTING  SUCCESS  IN  THE  WORK 
OF  CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS. 

Many  persons  consider  the  object  of  the  mis- 
sionary enterprise  impracticable.  They  point  to 
the  nature  of  the  end  proposed,  to  change  the  reli- 
gion of  nations — giving  to  them  the  strict  doctrines 
and  precepts  of  the  Bible,  for  a lax  ritual  that  falls 
in  with  the  course  of  human  nature;  a foreign, 
modern,  unknown  system  for  the  religion  of  their 


248 


APPENDIX. 


ancestors,  venerable  for  it  associations  not  less  than 
for  its  antiquity,  familiar  in  its  rites  and  duties,  and 
inseparably  connected  with  the  employments,  in- 
terests, usages,  language,  and  the  almost  entire 
life  of  its  votaries.  They  then  refer  to  the  feeble 
means  employed  to  accomplish  so  great  a change: 
— what  can  a few  hundred  foreigners  effect  among 
so  many  millions,  differing  from  themselves  in 
their  language,  dress,  manners,  and  mode  of  life; 
and  regarded  as  the  advocates  of  a strange  and  un- 
acceptable religion?  What,  they  will  ask,  could  fif- 
teen Persians  or  Hindus,  however  enlightened  and 
zealous,  do  towards  changing  the  religion  of  the 
fifteen  millions  of  our  American  people?  They 
will  further  appeal  to  the  sacrifices  which  this 
cause  requires;  and  they  urge  that  it  is  too  much 
to  expect  men  and  women  to  leave  their  friends 
for  ever;  or  if  young  and  ardent  minds  can  con- 
sent to  make  such  a sacrifice,  yet  surely  their 
parents  know  too  well  what  is  involved  in  such  an 
undertaking  to  give  it  their  approval ; or  if  those 
who  are  less  favoured  as  to  wealth  and  family 
standing  may  be  induced  to  go  as  missionaries,  yet 
certainly  the  higher  classes,  (as  some  of  these  ob- 
jectors proudly  consider  themselves,)  can  never 
yield  to  such  extravagant  enthusiasm;  or  if  some 
must  go,  it  is  most  unreasonable  to  ask  that  all 
should  feel  that  concern  on  the  subject  which  is  so 
often  enforced  as  the  duty  of  Christians.  And 
they  will  then  appeal  to  the  results,  and  ask  with 
an  air  of  triumph — What  has  been  done?  Where 
are  the  converts?  What  nation  has  given  up  its 
gods?  The  question  is  thus,  in  many  forms  and 
with  painful  impressiveness,  forced  on  the  atten- 
tion of  the  friend  of  missions — Is  this  a practicable 
enterprise?  Is  it  a work  which  can  be  done?  or 


APPENDIX. 


249 


is  this  object  too  great  and  too  good  to  be  achieved  ? 
are  these  efforts  misplaced?  these  sacrifices  unavail- 
ing? these  labours  unsuccessful?  Let  us  “con- 
sider this  matter.” 

What,  then,  is  the  missionary  enterprise  ? What 
does  it  propose  to  do,  and  in  what  w'ay  or  by 
what  means  ? Its  object  is  to  make  known  to  all 
men  the  grace  of  God,  as  revealed  through  Jesus 
Christ  in  his  Gospel.  It  regards  all  men  as  sin- 
ners, and  teaches  them  the  only  way  in  which 
forgiveness  can  be  obtained,  and  reconciliation 
with  God  effected,  and  preparation  for  the  enjoy- 
ment of  his  presence  secured.  It  proposes  sim- 
ply to  bring  before  the  minds  of  men,  in  all  coun- 
tries, the  true  knowledge  of  these  vitally  im- 
portant subjects.  Whether  they  will  receive  the 
truth,  and  believe  and  be  saved,  is  to  be  deci- 
ded by  themselves.  The  Church  is  responsible 
only  for  the  sufficient,  immediate,  and  faithful 
making  known  of  these  great  things. 

In  order  to  make  them  known,  some  Christians 
must  go  and  live  among  the  heathen,  acquire  their 
language,  and  instruct  them,  by  precept  and  ex- 
ample, in  the  great  truths  of  the  Christian  faith. 
It  does  not  appear  to  be  practicable,  nor  would  it 
probably  be  the  best  mode,  if  it  were,  to  send  from 
the  church  a sufficient  number  of  missionaries  to 
do  all  this  work  themselves, — to  send,  for  example, 
thirty  thousand  missionaries  to  India,  so  that  there 
might  be  one  minister  to  every  five  thousand  peo- 
ple ; — but  it  is  perfectly  practicable  to  send  and  to 
support  a number  sufficiently  large  to  establish, 
superintend,  and  carry  forward  such  efforts  as  shall 
secure  the  object  in  view  in  another  and  better 
way.  If  the  army  cannot  be  sent  with  all  its  rank 
and  file,  the  officers  can  go,  and  enlist  recruits, 
22 


250 


APPENDIX. 


and  organize  a force  in  the  midst  of  the  heathen, 
which  shall  be  more  effective  than  all  the  forces 
that  could  be  sent  from  Christendom.  Thus  the 
sacred  Scriptures  can  be  translated,  Schools  form- 
ed, the  Gospel  published,  the  natives  instructed, — 
so  that  they  may  become  instructers  of  their  counj 
trymen.  All  this  can  be  done;  all  this  is  now 
doing;  all  this  is  practicable. 

It  will  now  be  easy  to  say,  why  we  believe  in 
the  certain  success  of  this  enterprise. 

1.  The  means  are  adapted  to  the  end  in  view. 
It  is  true  in  the  kingdom  of  grace,  as  in  the  ordinary 
affairs  of  nature,  that  an  inseparable  connection 
exists,  in  general,  between  the  employment  of  suita- 
ble means  and  the  obtaining  of  the  end  for  which 
they  are  employed — “ He  that  plougheth  should 
plough  in  hope,  and  he  that  thresheth  in  hope 
shall  be  partaker  of  his  hope.”  So  in  the  things 
of  religion;  where  the  Gospel  is  faithfully  preach- 
ed to  men,  and  where  the  blessing  of  God  is  sought 
by  fervent  prayer,  it  always  proves  to  be  “ the 
wisdom  of  God  and  the  power  of  God  unto  salva- 
tion.” The  provisions  of  the  Gospel  are  adapted 
to  the  character  and  wants  of  the  heathen.  The 
word  of  God  can  remove  their  ignorance,  by  ma- 
king known  to  them  the  character  of  the  one  living 
and  true  God,  whom  they  ought  to  worship  in- 
stead of  their  multitude  of  vain  idols;  and  the 
grace  of  God  can  impart  peace  to  their  consciences, 
through  the  atonement  and  intercession  of  Christ, 
instead  of  their  painful  self-inflictions,  or  weari- 
some pilgrimages,  or  vain  repetitions  of  the  names 
of  gods  that  have  no  existence.  And  so  of  all 
other  things, — not  an  evil  exists  among  the  hea- 
then nations  which  the  Gospel  is  not  precisely 
adapted  to  remove.  Let  this  Gospel,  therefore,  be 


APPENDIX.' 


251 


made  known  to  the  heathen,  let  the  blessing  of 
God  be  sought  by  the  importunate  prayers  of  his 
people,  and  we  have  the  same  warrant  to  expect 
the  desired  results,  which  the  husbandman  has  to 
look  for  the  fruits  of  his  labour  in  the  time  of 
harvest. 

2.  Success  has  already  attended  the  employ- 
ment of  these  means.  It  is  true  that  the  full  mea- 
sure of  success  has  not  hitherto  been  enjoyed;  in 
some  countries  little  direct  good  appears  as  yet  to 
have  been  accomplished,  and  in  most  heathen  na- 
tions the  results  have  not  assumed  that  prominent 
character,  which  would  command  acknowledgment 
from  all  observers.  It  is  true  however,  that  from 
some  heathen  nations  thousands  have  been  gather- 
ed into  the  visible  church  of  Christ;  and  in  nearly 
or  quite  all  cases  of  missionary  effort  among  the 
heathen,  in  the  midst  of  much  that  calls  for  the 
exercise  of  faith  and  patience,  there  is  much  also 
that  is  encouraging  to  Christian  hope.  The  eye 
of  the  skeptic  or  of  the  mere  worldly  man  may  see 
nothing  but  what  meets  with  contempt,  or  at  least 
is  regarded  as  a decided  failure  ; but  the  Christian 
observer,  looking  more  closely,  and  considering 
the  progress  of  effort  from  the  beginning,  will  be 
grateful  for  the  foundation  laid,  and  the  footing 
gained,  for  the  Holy  Scriptures  translated,  for  pre- 
judices removed,  for  light  diffused  abroad,  for  in- 
quiries that  have  issued  in  conviction,  and  convic- 
tions that  have  resulted  in  hopeful  conversion  to 
God.  These  results  do  indeed  belong  to  the  day 
of  small  things,  yet  are  they  the  earnest  of  that  full 
measure  of  success  which  shall  before  long  be  seen 
of  all  men.  If  one  instance  has  occurred  in  which, 
through  the  efforts  employed  by  the  Church,  the 
true  conversion  of  an  idolater  has  been  effected, 


252 


APPENDIX. 


we  may  dismiss  all  our  fears  as  to  what  shall  be 
the  final  result  of  these  efforts.  Because,  not  to 
insist  that  such  an  instance  must  be  regarded  as 
the  seal  of  God’s  favour  and  the  evidence  of  his 
blessing,  we  must  recollect  that  the  first  cases  of 
conversion  are  ever  attended  with  far  greater  dif- 
ficulties than  subsequent  ones.  The  means  em- 
ployed are  then  imperfect  and  feeble;  heathen  pre- 
judices and  associations  are  then  in  their  strength; 
the  sacrifices  to  be  made  are  then  often  most  se- 
vere. But  conversion  once  effected,  the  convert 
becomes  a witness  to  the  power  of  the  grace  of 
God,  and  at  the  same  time  he  is  himself  a mis- 
sionary. The  influence  of  his  exertions  is  added 
to  that  of  those  already  in  operation,  successive 
converts,  in  numbers  ever  enlarging,  join  the  army 
of  the  Prince  of  Peace,  and  the  cause  of  the  Re- 
deemer moves  forward  with  continually  increasing 
speed  and  strengthening  force. 

3.  The  dispensations  of  Providence  in  our  limes 
are  generally  favourable  to  this  enterprise.  This 
is  too  large  a subject  to  present  fully.  If,  however, 
our  readers  will  recollect  what  was  the  condition  of 
most  heathen  countries  fifty  years  ago,  and  what 
was  the  interest  taken  in  the  salvation  of  the  heathen 
at  that  period,  in  connection  with  the  limited  faci- 
lities then  enjoyed  for  spreading  abroad  the  Gos- 
pel, they  will  see  the  bearing  of  this  remark.  How 
many  millions  of  men  have  become  fully  acces- 
sible, in  these  latter  days,  to  the  efforts  of  the 
Church  for  their  conversion!  What  extensive  and 
complete  advantages  are  now  enjoyed  for  “run- 
ning to  and  fro,”  and  for  increasing  knowledge! 
If  some  countries  are  still  closed  against  the  living 
teacher,  let  it  be  remembered  that  a far  larger  part 
of  the  heathen  world  is  now  open  for  the  most 


APPENDIX. 


253 


free  employment  of  Christain  agency,  than  the 
Church  has  yet  cultivated;  and  if  discouraging 
events  have  been  witnessed  in  the  progress  of 
missionary  undertakings,  let  it  be  considered  that 
the  agents  employed  in  these  works  are  men  who 
need  to  be  sanctified,  to  have  their  faith  tried  and 
strengthened,  and  their'zeal  chastened  and  rendered 
more  steady.  The  general  course  of  events  among 
the  nations  of  the  earth,  it  may  be  confidently 
affirmed,  has  been  such  as  to  show  the  hand  of 
God  upon  this  enterprise  for  good. 

4.  The  Word  of  God  authorizes  our  largest 
hopes  of  success.  No  reader  of  the  Sacred  Volume 
can  doubt  that  there  are  numerous  prophecies 
which  foreshow  the  extension  of  the  Redeemer’s 
kingdom,  and  no  student  of  history  will  contend 
that  these  prophecies  have  as  yet  been  fulfilled. 
The  gospel  shall  be  preached  to  every  creature. 
The  earth  shall  be  full  of  the  knowledge  of  the 
Lord,  as  the  waters  cover  the  sea.  The  nations 
shall  beat  their  swords  into  plough-shares,  and 
their  spears  into  pruning-hooks : nation  shall  not 
lift  up  sword  against  nation,  neither  shall  they 
learn  war  anymore.  The  Lord  shall  utterly  abolish 
the  idols.  The  heathen  shall  be  given  to  Messiah 
for  his  inheritance,  and  the  uttermost  parts  of  the 
earth  for  his  possession.  And  though  blindness  in 
part  is  happened  unto  Israel,  until  the  fulness  of 
the  Gentiles  be  come  in,  yet  all  Israel  shall  be 
saved.  These,  and  many  similar  passages  of  Sa- 
cred Scripture,  assure  us  of  a coming  time,  when 
ignorance,  and  vice,  and  crime  shall  not  prevail 
amongst  the  nations;  alas,  that  these  evils  should 
in  all  ages  have  held  an  unbroken  sway  over  nearly 
all  people,  and  that  even  now  they  are  so  generally 


254 


APPENDIX. 


prevalent!  But  a brighter  day  shall  shine  on  the 
earth.  The  wickedness  and  the  wars  of  men  shall 
give  place  to  peace,  and  truth,  and  purity,  and  the 
thousand  social  and  civil  advantages  which  flow 
from  the  gospel.  The  knowledge,  institutions, 
influences  and  hopes  of  the  religion  of  Christ  shall 
pervade  every  dark  corner  of  the  earth,  meliora- 
ting the  temporal  condition  of  men,  and  placing 
within  their  reach  the  blessed  portion  of  the  people 
of  God,  the  enjoyment  of  his  favour  through  ever- 
lasting ages.  And  a great  multitude,  which  no 
man  can  number,  of  all  nations,  and  kindreds,  and 
people,  and  tongues,  shall  stand  before  the  throne, 
and  before  the  Lamb,  clothed  with  white  robes, 
and  palms  in  their  hands;  and  shall  cry  with  a 
loud  voice,  Salvation  to  our  God  which  sitteth 
upon  the  throne,  and  unto  the  Lamb. 

The  work  of  Christian  missions  is  directly  con- 
nected with  all  these  prophecies,  and  tends  cer- 
tainly to  bring  to  pass  these  blessed  results.  It  is 
only  through  the  use  of  the  divinely  appointed 
means  of  grace  that  we  are  authorized  to  expect 
the  fulfilment  of  these  prophecies.  It  is  only  by 
the  preaching  of  the  gospel  that  these  inestimable 
blessings  shall  be  conferred  on  our  fallen  race. 
And  it  is  the  object,  the  characteristic  feature,  of 
the  missionary  enterprise  to  establish  these  means 
of  grace  in  the  midst  of  every  heathen  people. 
Hence  missionaries  are  sent  forth,  the  Bible  is 
printed  and  circulated,  and  schools  are  formed  to 
bring  the  minds  of  the  youth  more  fully  under 
Christian  influence  and  instruction;  and  as  the  re- 
sult of  all,  through  the  blessing  of  God  upon  these 
means  of  his  own  appointment,  it  is  confidently 
expected  that  the  minds  of  multitudes  of  the  hea- 


APPENDIX. 


255 


then  shall  be  enlightened,  and  they  shall  turn  to  the 
hope  of  Israel  for  salvation.  Christian  institutions 
will  then  be  established  and  supported  by  them- 
selves. Pastors  and  teachers  shall  be  trained  up 
among  themselves;  they  will  no  longer  need  sup- 
port from  foreign  countries,  but  the  gospel,  once 
planted,  shall  be  watered  from  on  high,  and  yield 
the  fruits  of  eternal  life  through  all  future  ages. 

This  work  of  Christian  benevolence  shall  be 
successful,  therefore,  because  it  is  the  wrork  of 
God.  His  strength  and  grace  shall  first  dispose 
the  followers  of  Christ  to  preach  the  gospel  to 
every  creature,  and  then  his  promise  shall  be  ful- 
filled that  “ as  the  rain  cometh  down,  and  the  snow 
from  heaven,  and  returneth  not  thither,  but  water- 
eth  the  earth,  and  maketh  it  bring  forth  and  bud, 
that  it  may  give  seed  to  the  sower  and  bread  to  the 
eater;  so  shall  my  word  be  that  goeth  forth  out  of 
my  mouth,  it  shall  not  return  unto  me  void,  but  it 
shall  accomplish  that  which  I please,  and  it  shall 
prosper  in  the  thing  whereto  I sent  it.”  And  then 
shall  all  the  ends  of  the  earth  see  the  salvation  of 
God. 

This  review  of  the  grounds  for  expecting  suc- 
cess to  attend  the  work  of  Christian  missions, 
should  admonish  those  who  may  have  opposed 
this  sacred  work,  to  take  heed  lest  they  be  found 
opposing  Him,  against  whom  all  opposition  is 
vain  and  shall  be  turned  to  confusion.  It  should 
rebuke,  also,  the  indolence  of  many  professed  fol- 
lowers of  Christ.  If  they  share  not  in  their  Mas- 
ter’s toils  and  trials,  can  they  expect  to  share  in 
his  rewards  and  triumphs?  They  may  stand  aloof, 
but  this  cause  shall  move  steadily  onward.  Let, 
then,  the  humble  and  faithful  Christian  rejoice  in 


256 


APPENDIX. 


the  assurance  of  his  Lord’s  approval  while  he  is 
engaged  in  this  work  of  mercy,  and  in  the  certain 
fulfilment  of  all  that  he  has  been  taught  to  expect 
by  the  spirit  of  prophecy.  His  “ labour  shall  not 
be  in  vain  in  the  Lord.” 


THE  END. 


' 

W * *«.  • + ». 


* - H 

- 


. 


